drivestwin

FIXED!!!! 1994 6 speed coupe. I had some issues with the left front speake/amp so I thought it was time for an aftermarket upgrade.

Went with a pioneer double DIN head unit and new infinity speakers front and back. I removed the tuner and all the stock amps.

Everything went fine but we did have to charge the battery by the end of the day.

New unit sounds great and am very happy.....but now the engine won't crank to start. No stock harnesses were cut, only tapped into the accessory power supply in the console, and found the illumination wire as well.

I have tried both keys, checked all fuses in all areas and all is good there. Any ideas? The snow is still melting, so I am in no hurry, but a bit frustrated so any help would be greatly appreciated.

Cruisinfanatic

You only need 1 thread for the problem. Not three

drivestwin

3 different areas of this great bunch of forums. Just trying to catch the eye of someone who has seen this before.

This place is awesome and has been so helpful in the past.

Benben

Hello, is the SECURITY light continuously illuminated while attempting to start? Do you notice a power drain when turning the key to the START position? Did you go under the driver side dash at all that the clutch safety switch may have been disturbed?

drivestwin

Light stops flashing when key is turned on. Was not by the clutch area. I did notice hatch release doesn't work now.

Benben

with the headlights on, do you notice a power drain when you turn the key to START?

drivestwin

No power drain. I can confirm tonight, but I don't think its even trying to crank(no signal that far)

WVZR-1

Yes JUST ONE SHOULD DO -

This and your other in the 'General' section have become entertaining. I've no idea where the 3d is but I suspect 'audio' - I don't believe I've been there in my tour here on the Corvette Forum. Never!!

drivestwin

What's interesting is that I am getting good ideas on two of them. Not too sure what the huge deal is about me posting it in a few places to try and get more help. Yes, one would be ideal, but not everybody goes to that one forum. The only real drama might be coming from those complaining about multiple postings.

Anyway, back to actually helping please. I HIGHLY value the knowledge you all have and am hoping to learn throughout this challenge.

Cruisinfanatic

Because it is against forum guidelines. No cross posting

drivestwin

Now that is something of which I was not aware. I have tried to delete but am unable to.

FostersPerformance

I have an 88....LOOOOONG story short, mine is not stock, and ive been rewiring the car.....One thing caught my eye...You said hatch dosent pop...If i wasnt ripping wires out yesterday i wouldnt know this but -

The hatch pop button in the center console has 2 wires. One goes to a small fuse block (4 gang) somewhere in front of the shifter. Stay with me here...On one side is a heavy green/white wire. Other small wire goes to yellow button. Now even though its fused, its GROUND. Was killing me trying to figure out why hatch wouldnt pop open as its a one wire solenoid at the hatch, so it has to be positive. It is - there is a 3 wire relay back there that you ground by pushing button, and it sends power to the solenoid.

So anyway, why would the hatch go through shifter? On an auto its so it can only pop open in park or neutral. Believe standarts go through clutch petal, but same concept.

If you have no hatch im thinking you tapped into clutch pedal, This would make the VATS think all is ok, but wont crank over cause it thinks clutch is engaged...

Like i said, mine is an 88...But the hatch thing caught my eye...Good luck!!!

drivestwin

Thanks so much!!! gives me something to look into tonight. Awesome!!!

drivestwin

Update......got the rear hatch release button working. The retention clip is broken and the ground fell off. Didn't fix it.

No voltage to starter when trying to start.

WVZR-1

Did you do as I suggested in maybe the other thread, remove the drivers mat, sit your a$$ down, push clutch and turn the key to CRANK?

wsherrard

Is it possible you did something to the VATS connector? I had an issue on my 91 with that several years ago bit don't remember exactly what the exact symptom was I do remember it wouldn't start. It turned out to be a loose wire at the base of the steering column coming from the connector that senses the resistor slug in the key. Don't remember specifically if it turned over or not. Don't assume that because you didn't work in that area that you didn't do something to it. When we get in there pushing, pulling etc on old wires and connectors... things can happen.

drivestwin

Yes. Tried to bypass the clutch switch and could not get cover off for access. Will try tomorrow. Out of time tonight.

WVZR-1

You're saying you couldn't remove the 'hush panel' below the steering column? You don't know how?

I'd have likely wagered and lost on the mat but for all M6 'no crank' it's the first thing to do. All M6 with a 'no crank' first thing to do if there's a mat in the car.

Well I doubt the clutch switch because that's a fairly secure connection and harder to reach. I don't know how you ran speaker wires to left without removing 'hush panel' but I'd bet you knocked the SER out of the socket. You'll need to remove the 'hush panel' to confirm but if you turn the key to 'crank' and there's no click (I'm quite certain it would click) that's where I'd have suggested 2nd. I doubt I'd have gone under the car.

A coincidental clutch switch? Maybe

If it's not the SER then you're back to 'stupid'

Do you have the FSM for the '94?

Here's the SER location:



You mentioned that battery was 'dead' and needed charged after the radio install. That would hint you never disconnected the battery before doing the install. Is that a correct assumption?

drivestwin

Fixed it! Thanks to all. It was a power back feed through the metro harness that was unused.