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Brown wire is to the radio capacitor-----should be mounted on back of cluster
Left and right turn-----on the connector to the turn signal switch, two connectors will have two wires. One pair LBL (light blue) and the other DBL (dark blue). Touch 12 volts to those.
Hi Beam-----on the dimmer switch connector, look for a LG (light green) wire. Touch 12 volts to it.
Parking Brake----look for the connector going to the parking brake switch. Touch a ground to that.
Lights. On one of the bulkhead connectors there will be a GY/DBL/B (grey, dark blue, black?) wire going to one of those terminals. Touch a ground to that. If you can't find it use a straight pin to give a ground to that wire at the Lights socket.
When using the "Touch" wire always put a couple amp fuse in series with it----in case you touch the wrong wire.
Brown wire is to the radio capacitor-----should be mounted on back of cluster
Left and right turn-----on the connector to the turn signal switch, two connectors will have two wires. One pair LBL (light blue) and the other DBL (dark blue). Touch 12 volts to those. Ok, These work for me
Hi Beam-----on the dimmer switch connector, look for a LG (light green) wire. Touch 12 volts to it. Ok, This worked
Parking Brake----look for the connector going to the parking brake switch. Touch a ground to that. Only works if I turn the ignition all the way to the right "start position"
Lights. On one of the bulkhead connectors there will be a GY/DBL/B (grey, dark blue, black?) wire going to one of those terminals. Touch a ground to that. If you can't find it use a straight pin to give a ground to that wire at the Lights socket. Found the pin and put ground to it no light
When using the "Touch" wire always put a couple amp fuse in series with it----in case you touch the wrong wire.
BTW these colors are for a '66----
May have an issue with my ignition. When you turn the key to the run mode with the lights on the dash goes dark.
Is this the correct orientation for the bucket switch?
Last edited by SoCalErv; 02-23-2018 at 12:13 PM.
Reason: edit
I have a ground from the battery to the cluster that a jumper from the ground to the pin and no light. Checked the light out of the socket and it is good.
According to the test paper if you hook the power to the BAT terminal all lights are to be on, nit my case. If I hook the hot to the ACC dash lights come on.
I have a ground from the battery to the cluster that a jumper from the ground to the pin and no light. Checked the light out of the socket and it is good.
According to the test paper if you hook the power to the BAT terminal all lights are to be on, nit my case. If I hook the hot to the ACC dash lights come on.
Here is the great paper I am comparing my bench test to. I am not getting the same results.
New wiring harness from M&H, cluster rebuilt from Corvette Specialties of Maryland.
Probably something got left out (like: "except for brake light, etc") or the wrong picture was used.
Makes me think so even more because they give specific instructions on how to make the signal lights turn on (pg 13), dimmer light turn on (pg 15), brake light (pg19) and lights indicator (pg 8).
Lights. On one of the bulkhead connectors there will be a GY/DBL/B (grey, dark blue, black?) wire going to one of those terminals. Touch a ground to that. If you can't find it use a straight pin to give a ground to that wire at the Lights socket. Found the pin and put ground to it no light
Tried with the lights on and off. Tried with the ignition switch off and in the run position.
Could only get the brake light to come on when I turned the ignition to the start (far right) when I released it to the run position the light went off.
This is why I wonder if I have a problem with the ignition switch.
Probably something got left out (like: "except for brake light, etc") or the wrong picture was used.
Makes me think so even more because they give specific instructions on how to make the signal lights turn on (pg 13), dimmer light turn on (pg 15), brake light (pg19) and lights indicator (pg 8).
Are you saying that the picture could be wrong that all the lights will not illuminate with the basic test of Grd and positive to the BAT in the fuse panel?
Are you saying that the picture could be wrong that all the lights will not illuminate with the basic test of Grd and positive to the BAT in the fuse panel?
Correct. Take for example the turn signal lights. The bulb is grounded at the cluster. The other end of the bulb's filament is connected to a wire that goes to the turn signal switch connector. If no switch is installed it all ends there. No way for the bulb to come on, i.e. get power to light. Now if the TS switch and flasher were installed, pushed to either turn position and ignition switch turned on the bulb would flash. But only one bulb, not both-----and not both constantly.
Correct. Take for example the turn signal lights. The bulb is grounded at the cluster. The other end of the bulb's filament is connected to a wire that goes to the turn signal switch connector. If no switch is installed it all ends there. No way for the bulb to come on, i.e. get power to light. Now if the TS switch and flasher were installed, pushed to either turn position and ignition switch turned on the bulb would flash. But only one bulb, not both-----and not both constantly.
Are you saying that the picture could be wrong that all the lights will not illuminate with the basic test of Grd and positive to the BAT in the fuse panel?
Erv,
Working on a clarification of that page with help from Tim Welsh and Rich Mozzetta.
Will post up the clarification when I hear back from them regarding the edits I have made to page three.
Correct. Take for example the turn signal lights. The bulb is grounded at the cluster. The other end of the bulb's filament is connected to a wire that goes to the turn signal switch connector. If no switch is installed it all ends there. No way for the bulb to come on, i.e. get power to light. Now if the TS switch and flasher were installed, pushed to either turn position and ignition switch turned on the bulb would flash. But only one bulb, not both-----and not both constantly.
When following the write-up I came to this exact conclusion. It had me worried at first, before I thought about the turn signal switch not being wired in.
My problem now is, when I check headlight (telltale) bulb (pg 8) the "LIGHTS" indicator on the console blinks on and off....at a slow pace. Not sure if this is correct or my switch is bad.
When following the write-up I came to this exact conclusion. It had me worried at first, before I thought about the turn signal switch not being wired in.
My problem now is, when I check headlight (telltale) bulb (pg 8) the "LIGHTS" indicator on the console blinks on and off....at a slow pace. Not sure if this is correct or my switch is bad.
Thanks,
Dex.
Check out your bulb----sounds like there is a 257 flashing bulb in there.
02-23-2018, 09:36 AM
Cluster Bench Test
Take for example the turn signal lights. The bulb is grounded at the cluster. The other end of the bulb's filament is connected to a wire that goes to the turn signal switch connector. If no switch is installed it all ends there. No way for the bulb to come on, i.e. get power to light. Now if the TS switch and flasher were installed, pushed to either turn position and ignition switch turned on the bulb would flash. But only one bulb, not both-----and not both constantly.
