Headlight bulb swap issue
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Headlight bulb swap issue
I got some original bulbs for my 72 and swapped out the working bulbs that were in it tonight.
Right now the driver side bulbs are fine but the passenger side only lights up on the outer bulb when the brights are on and the inner bulb does not work at all.
So the low beam does not work on low but it does work on hi, and the bright bulb does not work at all. Can both symptoms be connection issues?
Right now the driver side bulbs are fine but the passenger side only lights up on the outer bulb when the brights are on and the inner bulb does not work at all.
So the low beam does not work on low but it does work on hi, and the bright bulb does not work at all. Can both symptoms be connection issues?
#2
Team Owner
Member Since: Sep 2006
Location: Westminster Maryland
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Hi Barry,
Do you know for certain that the original headlight your using works?
Have you checked the condition of the connection of the copper 'prongs' to the bulb body?
Not being an electrician.... I'd test the bulb on the other side to see if it works there or not?
Regards,
Alan
Do you know for certain that the original headlight your using works?
Have you checked the condition of the connection of the copper 'prongs' to the bulb body?
Not being an electrician.... I'd test the bulb on the other side to see if it works there or not?
Regards,
Alan
#3
Drifting
Thread Starter
Thanks for the reply. I actually bought 8 bulbs in total so I could feel ok using 46 year old bulbs --knowing I had spares. I tried 3 different bulbs in the hi beam location on the passenger side and none of them worked.
I will also try the newish sylvania bulbs I pulled out, but it was getting late and I had to clock out at some point last night.
I guess my real question is -are these things wired in any way that would cause my symptom, or is the most likely culprit the low beam has one prong not making contact so that's why it works on high but not low (and I'm assuming my hi beam is not making contact at all.)
I will also try the newish sylvania bulbs I pulled out, but it was getting late and I had to clock out at some point last night.
I guess my real question is -are these things wired in any way that would cause my symptom, or is the most likely culprit the low beam has one prong not making contact so that's why it works on high but not low (and I'm assuming my hi beam is not making contact at all.)
#4
Drifting
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If you actually have "original" 1972 bulbs, they are as rare as hen teeth. I wouldn't be using them except for some type of judging event. If you have original 1968-1971 bulbs, they aren't as rare, but I wouldn't waste them on everyday driving.
If your headlights worked correctly before the change, it's either the bulbs or you don't have the plugs seated correctly, pulled a pin loose or something along those lines.
If your headlights worked correctly before the change, it's either the bulbs or you don't have the plugs seated correctly, pulled a pin loose or something along those lines.
#5
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#6
Pro
Do you have a meter or test light? Use one and find out if voltage is making it. You can compare from a working one to the other instead of swapping. If you have a problem you don't want to damage a bulb
#7
Instructor
Edit: If the bulbs are not the issue, then my guess is that the issue with your low beam is between the driver's side and passenger's side lights and the issue with the high beam is between the outer and inner lights on your passenger's side.
Last edited by D_Williams; 02-24-2018 at 12:06 PM.
#8
Drifting
Thread Starter
The only tester I have is the kind that you use in wall outlets. Could that work?
Anyway, I see a lot of what I think is dielectric grease on the prongs of the lights I took out and some in in the plugs.
I'm going to clean up the prongs on these old lights to make sure I'm getting good contact and report back.
Anyway, I see a lot of what I think is dielectric grease on the prongs of the lights I took out and some in in the plugs.
I'm going to clean up the prongs on these old lights to make sure I'm getting good contact and report back.
#9
Pro
No wall outlet tester is for AC only. You can by a cheap test light that has a metal pint on one end with a clear handle and bulb inside. There is a wire lead with a alligator clip on it so you can clip it to positive or negative to test circuits. Under $10 most places.
The dielectric is there to prevent corrosion so don't remove it.
The dielectric is there to prevent corrosion so don't remove it.
#10
Drifting
Thread Starter
Got the Sylvania bulbs out of the basement and they still work. Should have been my first test. Sorry, could have saved some of you from needing to post. I really was not wanting to deal with plugs or wires.
Guess I'll just start cleaning up these T3's.
Guess I'll just start cleaning up these T3's.