59BlueSilver

I don’t have a lift, just ramps and jacks. Have a large steel floor jack that works well but leaks down and it weighs a ton! Looking for a good quality 2 to 3 ton aluminum unit w/o paying a fortune. Probably going to be a Chinese mfg. because that’s all you can find anymore, but don’t trust Harbor Freight stuff and there are all kinds of brands out there.
Anybody got any recommendations?

Frankie the Fink

Some Harbor Freight products are OK. I recently had cause to have my 63 on jack stands for 1-1/2 weeks with floor jacks taking part of the load. Two floor jacks, both Harbor Freight and I've owned both for 5-6 years. The silver one never leaked down and is low profile 3 ton and glides under a midyear tire tub to jack up the differential easily and quick pump up (see the link). It has a padded handle too.

The other is a black regular floor jack (supposedly heavy duty) -- it needed a few pumps every couple of days to stay tight against the car. I don't think they sell it anymore. Bare metal handle.

https://www.harborfreight.com/automo...ump-62326.html

wmf62

there is a local man hereabouts that repairs jacks. he refuses to work on any jack not made in the US, BUT he says that there is a Harbor Freight racing jack (possibly the aluminum one, but not sure...) that he says is worth owning.

1 have a matching pair of Harbor Freight steel quick pump low profile 3 ton jacks I use infrequently, no problems so far

Bill

59BlueSilver

Yeah, I’ve gotten a mixed bag of stuff from HF, some good, some bad. I like the looks of that jack, even though it’s not alum., especially the min. & max height. If it doesn’t leak down (can’t handle a jack that does) then I think that’s just the ticket. Thanks!

skids

https://www.floorjackshop.com/best-aluminum-floor-jack/

59BlueSilver

Sounds like the same jack Frankie mentioned. Thanks!

Frankie the Fink

It'll put the azz end of a C1 or C2 in the air, wheels off the ground, in about 6-7 pumps and not hurt anything; under $90 too. The padded handle is nice... I've had to duct tape foam pipe insulation around the handle of other jacks... Like this Walmart cheapie.

Boyan

Floor jacks are designed to lift a load, not maintain it. Thats why they are always to be used in conjunction with jack stands. And regarding the above photo, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, EVER place your jack stands on cinderblocks or any other block. Get taller jackstands.

The monitors should remove the above photo posted as it is an UNSAFE condition that may kill someone.

OP, if you were near me I would sell you a refurbished American Made Hein Werner jack that would last a lifetime. The new blue/yellow Hein Werner is not bad either.

63splitter

I have a Jegs low profile aluminum floor jack and love it. I had built a 41 ****** Pro Street car and needed something light that would fit in the trunk for trips. The ****** is gone, but I still use the jack on my 60 Corvette. I always use the jack in conjunction with jack stands, but that's just me.

warrenmj

Frankie will probably explain his photo, but I believe the stands on the cinder blocks are holding up whatever he was working on and not the vehicle. You can see the larger blue jack stands that are actually supporting the vehicle.

wmf62

it would appear that he was removing the leaf springs, the blue stands are holding the axle. the stands on the blocks are under the rear crossmember and are only supporting the azz end, very little weight. if they were under the front end, then that would be a different story weightwise and not a good idea.

Bill

Boyan

The problem is that people looking at the interwebs are going to see it and not play where’s waldo to look for additional safety stands. He already mentioned he used the jack for an extended time in the pressureized condition, which it is not designed to do. I dont know what the small stands are holding up, but it portrays a very unsafe condition that someone may interpret as OK.

wmf62

Bill

reno stallion

Sears has a nice low pro aluminum jack

Frankie the Fink

The small silver jack stands are holding up the rear axle long enough to put rear leaf springs on. These cars have rebound straps that would catch the axle midair if the worst happened.
Additionally the floor jack was back up support during the spring installation process.

The weight of the car is supported on massive SUV blue jacks forward on the frame.

Case closed - next case...

Jacks aren't designed to hold weight for extended periods - even so I put them up against the frame snugly as a backup to jack stands -- just because I'm a belt and suspenders guy.

BTW - the orange Walmart jack in the photo blew its seals suddenly one afternoon and 'dumped' the rear of the car on the ground. Luckily the tires were on the car so no harm done.

I don't trust ANY of them completely...

No machine is foolproof; fools should keep their hands off machinery.

warrenmj

If someone does something stupid based on this picture, then that just goes to show that Darwin was right.

59BlueSilver

I wouldn’t have a jack that leaks down or won’t hold the weight, no use for them, and I use jack stands religiously. Bought a Big Red one time that was that way, took it back, another did the same. As a result, I don’t buy Big Red!

59BlueSilver

Absolutely correct!

Larry Chilton

Costco online sells a 3-ton alum/steel jack, professional grade for $100. I purchased not long ago and so far seems to be well worth the money.

Larry

Procrastination Racing

First, they probably are not cinder blocks, but regular concrete blocks.

Second, a concrete block is more than capable of supporting a car IF (notice it is a BIG if) the following are followed:

1. Holes must be vertical. That is how they are designed to hold weight in compression. Holes horizontal will break. Frankie's picture is the classic fail.

2. NEVER put a point load on the block. Never support a car frame, axle, a-arm, jack stand, etc. that places its load on a small point of contact. ALWAYS spread that load using a wide block of wood on the concrete.

3. Always place the block on a smooth and level surface. Across broken surfaces, not equal height slabs, and such will put uneven stress on the block and may break it.

4. Use fresh blocks. The older a block is, the more likely it is to break and crumble. That block you have had around since you built the house 30 years ago is not a good idea.

5. It is always better to use jack stands, however, there is a possible problem there, too, if the height of the jack is too high compared to the width of the base, where it may topple over. In cases like that, the concrete block is probably more stable.

6. Never fully trust any of them.