BrainDrainin

9T3VETTE

Only advice I can give is to purchase the proper Kent Moore tool. Makes removal and installation a breeze.

there are others on the forum who have used a 3 jaw puller, hopefully they will chime in. Good luck.

ChumpVette

Nevert had a problem with the GM puller, which is why I have it, even if it gets used once a year or longer. It sounds like you may need to apply a little heat/freeze spray or penetrating oil to help.

What's your location?

PatternDayTrader

I feel sorry for you. The hub is an interference fit, meaning its basically pressed on. I don't know if the 3 jaw puller can even do the job. If you decide to heat it up. this is a deal where you do not want to heat it cherry red like say a stuck manifold stud. Actually any advice besides getting the proper tool is probably bad advice.

Christi@n

Once There was a video here, from a forum member, that simply removed it very slighlty, after removed bolts, with a crowbar

PatternDayTrader

Not the hub.
I don't even need to see the video. The hub did not come off with a crowbar/prybar unless is was cracked and ruined.

BrainDrainin

Christi@n

Very sorry made a mistake. Readed too fast

I was speaking about harmonic balancer, not hub for sure...

PatternDayTrader

My concern would be that its mounted on the crank shaft. The kent moore tool is basically a puller that bolts to the front. Have you ever changed a harmonic balancer on an old style small block Chevy engine ? Even though you have to really reef down on the forcing screw, heat should not be required.

PatternDayTrader

Oh well that makes more sense then. You could use a prybar to help remove the balancer, provided you were careful.

ChumpVette

You can apply some heat, but need to be careful about how much.

This is the GM tool set.

84 4+3

I'd much rather spray compressed canned air upside down (cooling liquid) into the nose of the crank rather then heating it. Once the shaft is good and cooled, heat on the balancer around the nose lightly should get it to pop off with the puller. It's one of those if it gets too hot it could make it worse type things...

BrainDrainin

The set im using is not far off from the gm set, I’m letting it soak in WD over night then I will go back at it. I was even tapping it with a mallet while the puller kept tension on it. Yes I have puller a few harmonic balancer makes before and I know it takes a bit to get them to start moving...... but like I said I had this puller to the point of metal shavings coming out of the threads, using the Imapct

BrainDrainin

PatternDayTrader

No I don't have a link.
First I thought you were using a 3 jaw puller, then you said it bolted to the hub which is basically the same as the kent moore tool.

gdl2165

No one has asked the obvious question yet, how long is the bolt you put into the crank hub? Is it possible it's not long enough, so that when you press against it the hub is actually pressing against the backside of the head and locking it up? When I did my cam swap a few years ago I used a 1/4" ratchet extension about 4" long to press against.

Bwbob

i have found in many cases a good whack straight on the head of the center puller screw, hit straight in towards the engine, (make sure that center screw has good tension but you dont need to use an impact, just some good torque) and it will pop loose. It takes a decent sharp smack. But of course you have to have enough room for the swing. I cant tell if you pulled the radiator or not or if your center bolt is so long that there is no room. Dont hit sideways, it has to be straight on. Ive seen people strip pullers where this method works with even cheap pullers the sharp whack breaks it loose and you can wrench it from there. That center screw need good tension but its not necessary to be at the point of stripping or bending things.

BrainDrainin

PatternDayTrader

You should use a metal hammer. You should hit it hard enough that it can begin to mushroom the end of the forcing screw (the end you hit).
Don't miss and break your timing cover. Wear safety glasses.

Bwbob

I like to use about a 1 pound mall. That way you dont have to swing so hard and the mass of the hammer does the work. You shouldnt have to hit it so hard it would mushroom the screw, especially since that screw should be hardened to grade 8 or higher, but you do want to give it a pretty good whack. Like i said, you want some that screw tight, you can put much more force than you would on a lug nut. If you tap it, it should make. Nice “tink” sound. Then give it a good hard whack and it will most likely pop loose. It wont pop all the way off but it will make a slightly different noise, a lower sounding “thunk” and you might notice right away that the puller is loose. Then you should be able to simply wrench it with a socket and it will slide clean off.
Make absolutely sure that the puller is “square” with the hub. Adjust the three screws to get that center screw as straight as possible. Tighten the center, give it a whack, and watch the magic. If t doesnt pop, take a second or third whack but check to make sure that center screw is tight first