gccch

Hi all,

Looking for someone expert at rebuilding my 64 carburetor. It's correct date coded and had been rebuild by someone that did not do it right. I don't want to be the next one to screw it up but I would like it to perform properly.

Any recommendations in the northeast?

Thanks,
Greg

Frankie the Fink

If you have to pack it up and mail it anyway - I don't know that a few more states away matters much. To wit, Daytona Parts down here in Florida are first rate....google them...

Here is my AFB on their test mule engine...

You can call them and talk to Ron or Tim and allay any fears you have about their work.

Hollywoodheroes

Try this guy... Steve's carbs. He is in NJ. He did my 1964 carb, I have a carter as well. He saw the damn thing and actually said... " I think I rebuilt this years ago.." Then he went and checked his records and sure enough.. he had.

When I pulled up to get my carb there was a 63 in the lot, and a 67. The guy knows his stuff.

http://www.stevescarb.com

Best-
Jordan

biggd

One of the best carbs ever made!

dplotkin

I've been saying that for years. I know Holley may have the edge on high performance and tunability but the AFB is a comparatively elegant design, no fuel below the gaskets, easy to fix and tune. With 8 cars I have 'em all. The AFB is my favorite.

Dan

Frankie the Fink

I liked the AFB when I ran it on the 63....the car is now back to its correct 250hp WCFB.
I have now owned 3 sets of dual quad WCFBs and about 4 single application WCFBs.

I guess you love what you know, and having rebuilt 10-12, I just have an affection for the WCFBs.

kolsen911

My Hemi/vette has dual Carter AFB's. I decided to rebuild them as there was no accelerator pump shot until half throttle.

First Carters had either a little ID tag on one screw or an ID stamped on the base. Well as this engine came from a guy building drag race engines, 50 years ago, it had neither. No choke nothing just two identical carbs.

I took pictures of it, sent them to a fellow in Calgary, AL. Canada. He sent me what he thought was the correct kit which fit.

Runs fine but still no accelerator pump shot. Found Mike's carbs in Chehalis, Wash. Ended up fitting 3 different pumps and replaced check ball in accelerator pump gallery.

Finally got it working. Net result is Carter's are very simple compared to the Holley, they're just old.

dplotkin

Well, yes. On a hobby car used on the street an AFB cannot be beat. I understand the merits of Holley carbs and why competition users like them.


We tend to like what works well. I have a 4GC that has not been apart in 18 years, has an inoperative choke, but starts my 327/250 on the first try with only slight feathering every time (except for the first Spring start).


I have 4 AFB's, two on my cross ram Plymouth, two on two other cars. I love how easy it is to work on them and that they don't leak.


Holley seems a better carb for those who use their cars a lot, they tend to dry out & leak from sitting, and power valve blowouts seem too frequent for my taste. But I think that is the price one pays for the performance they provide.


Dan

gccch

Thanks for the tips. I will call Steve’s and Daytona. It’s tue since I a man shipping it distance doesn’t really matter. I thought maybe someone local could be found.

wmf62

Bill

gccch

Here is a picture after removal. I’m wondering why so much black soot has built up on the slot that goes left to right. This is after about 1000 miles of driving. Also my paint on the intake is already destroyed.

They say ignition problems are usually the cause of trouble so just putting this out there. My carb is going out for a thorough restoration either way.
​​​​​​​

Frankie the Fink

gccch

Can you give me some more detail about this? What are the runners? How to block them? And is this a problem with all factory set ups?

Frankie the Fink

The intake runners are channels for hot exhaust gases to run under the intake manifold for faster cold-weather warm ups... With modern gas they can exacerbate percolation problems in hot weather and cause paint discoloration. These were blocked off on most fuel injection cars. Many use fuel injection gaskets to block them off - I have on both of my cars...(yellow circles). If you do this its best to put a spacer (or wire open) the passenger side exhaust manifold heat riser. If you look below your PS exhaust manifold you'll see this part with a rectangular weight that moves the 'flapper' inside the exhaust pipe..

LB66383

Just to add to what Frankie said -- that manifold heat riser valve tends to rust and freeze up, usually in the closed position. Meaning that hot exhaust is going through that slot in the intake manifold all the time, not just during engine warm-up. And it is effectively taking the passeger's side exhaust out of the system. Check the weight hanging off the passenger's exhaust manifold and see if it moves. It should be spring-loaded and move freely.

wmf62

ALL C1 FI cars, there is no passage through the adapter plate manifold. that's why they used crossover pipes. I don't THINK C2's used crossover pipes, just heat riser eliminators.

I don't know what Pontiac and Cadillac did..., but I suspect it was the same

Bill

MikeM

That crossover was to heat the intake to help vaporize the raw gasoline, especially when the engine was cold. FI engines had port injection from the nozzles, way downstream of any crossover heat source so it wasn't used to heat the raw gas.

gccch

gilbybarr

Another vote for Daytona Products....they did two Strombergs for my '41 Buick and also the original carb from my '65 327/300. Excellent work....that are not cheap, but provided excellent results both cosmetically and running wise. Highly recommend.

wmf62

take the 'flapper' plate out of the heat riser altogether, just retaining the body of the valve: or get the FI spacer to replace it

Bill