LT1 bad miss and running rich
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
LT1 bad miss and running rich
Hey y'all! We just finished doing the oil pan, timing cover and intake gaskets on my 94, and after finding and waiting for some other parts that broke when it came off I finally got her together and running last night - it was so nice hearing her fire up after about a month and a half of sitting. Once she started though, she started missing pretty bad and ran so rich it made my eyes water. I fired her up again this morning since it was pitch black last night and left her run until she got into a closed loop to see what she'd do. Idle in open loop she wavers between 800 and 900 rpms and shakes pretty bad, with some lag in the throttle response. Closed loop she idles up to 1050 and wavers between that and 975 - still shaking though not as much with it idling up, and still running pig rich. The parts aside from the above gaskets that have been replaced are the opti (the other one drowned in oil), the ICM (figured it was time), the EGR Solenoid Controller, and the Schrader valve on the fuel rail. I've got a video of her idling that I'll post up on youtube and link here, and I'm using Tunerpro Rt to try and read her codes.
Has anyone else run into this when doing the timing over or intake gasket?
Thanks!
Ken
Has anyone else run into this when doing the timing over or intake gasket?
Thanks!
Ken
#4
Instructor
I just fixed a problem where my vette was running super rich. What does the o2 sensor data look like? What are he fuel trims. My problem stemmed from the drivers side o2 giving the computer a false lean condition. Also could be opti as well. O2 readings should oscillate between 100-900 with a high frequency. If you want, log the data and export the csv file and post to here. Maybe check for a vacuum leak at the intake using a propane torch (unlit) and run the gas around where the intake mounts to the head, and around the injectors.
Best of luck!
Connor
Best of luck!
Connor
#5
Racer
Thread Starter
I just fixed a problem where my vette was running super rich. What does the o2 sensor data look like? What are he fuel trims. My problem stemmed from the drivers side o2 giving the computer a false lean condition. Also could be opti as well. O2 readings should oscillate between 100-900 with a high frequency. If you want, log the data and export the csv file and post to here. Maybe check for a vacuum leak at the intake using a propane torch (unlit) and run the gas around where the intake mounts to the head, and around the injectors.
Best of luck!
Connor
Best of luck!
Connor
Both 02’s stay within that 100-900 range, though she’s also missing and running rich before she goes into closed loop. How do I check the fuel trims on a data logger to see what she’s doing? Also, with the propane torch, are you looking for the sound of it being sucked in, or do you turn it up high enough that you can see the propane coming out and watch to see if that wave moves?
I have the data logged, though I used Tunerpro RT so I think it’s a .xdf or .xdl file, though I’m not 100% sure. What software are you using to log it as a .csv file?
Thanks!
~Ken
#6
Instructor
Thanks Connor!
Both 02’s stay within that 100-900 range, though she’s also missing and running rich before she goes into closed loop. How do I check the fuel trims on a data logger to see what she’s doing? Also, with the propane torch, are you looking for the sound of it being sucked in, or do you turn it up high enough that you can see the propane coming out and watch to see if that wave moves?
I have the data logged, though I used Tunerpro RT so I think it’s a .xdf or .xdl file, though I’m not 100% sure. What software are you using to log it as a .csv file?
Thanks!
~Ken
To check fuel trims you want to look at left and right INT (Integrator) and left long term and right long term.
All you have to do for the propane trick is to get the gas flowing so you can hear it and run the tip of the torch close to where the intake and the heads meet. If there is a leak the gas will be sucked in and you will notice a change in RPM
Connor
#7
Racer
Thread Starter
When you click record on tuner pro, and then click stop when you’re done you’ll save an xdl. After you’ve saved an xdl you can load log file and when you have it loaded you can export as csv. If you want you can post both or just the xdl.
To check fuel trims you want to look at left and right INT (Integrator) and left long term and right long term.
All you have to do for the propane trick is to get the gas flowing so you can hear it and run the tip of the torch close to where the intake and the heads meet. If there is a leak the gas will be sucked in and you will notice a change in RPM
Connor
To check fuel trims you want to look at left and right INT (Integrator) and left long term and right long term.
All you have to do for the propane trick is to get the gas flowing so you can hear it and run the tip of the torch close to where the intake and the heads meet. If there is a leak the gas will be sucked in and you will notice a change in RPM
Connor
#8
Racer
Thread Starter
#9
Le Mans Master
I am guessing it's not O2 sensors, because the problem is actually worse (per Ken's description) when cold, in open-loop mode. When my one of O2 sensors **** the bed, it ran fine when cold in open-loop, and only started running rough and rich once it warmed up and began closed-loop mode.
I'm guessing something hasn't sealed correctly with the intake, or you have a bad injector or something like that. I seriously doubt it's the opti: if it were, you should also be getting a bad tach signal and no signal to the injectors and plugs. If you have an IR thermometer gun, you could try aiming it at each exhaust primary to see if they are all at similar temperature. If one of them is significantly colder than the others, then you've narrowed down the search.
I'm guessing something hasn't sealed correctly with the intake, or you have a bad injector or something like that. I seriously doubt it's the opti: if it were, you should also be getting a bad tach signal and no signal to the injectors and plugs. If you have an IR thermometer gun, you could try aiming it at each exhaust primary to see if they are all at similar temperature. If one of them is significantly colder than the others, then you've narrowed down the search.
#10
Racer
Thread Starter
Just got some more time to look at the data log, both int sides stay at 128 until closed loop, then left goes to about 140 average and right to 180 average, with right getting as high as 194 and left getting as high as about 150 - there's an average difference of 30 between the two sides throughout the log, though I should also mention that during the recording the engine is revved a few times to see how the data changes.
#11
Racer
Thread Starter
I am guessing it's not O2 sensors, because the problem is actually worse (per Ken's description) when cold, in open-loop mode. When my one of O2 sensors **** the bed, it ran fine when cold in open-loop, and only started running rough and rich once it warmed up and began closed-loop mode.
I'm guessing something hasn't sealed correctly with the intake, or you have a bad injector or something like that. I seriously doubt it's the opti: if it were, you should also be getting a bad tach signal and no signal to the injectors and plugs. If you have an IR thermometer gun, you could try aiming it at each exhaust primary to see if they are all at similar temperature. If one of them is significantly colder than the others, then you've narrowed down the search.
I'm guessing something hasn't sealed correctly with the intake, or you have a bad injector or something like that. I seriously doubt it's the opti: if it were, you should also be getting a bad tach signal and no signal to the injectors and plugs. If you have an IR thermometer gun, you could try aiming it at each exhaust primary to see if they are all at similar temperature. If one of them is significantly colder than the others, then you've narrowed down the search.
#12
Le Mans Master
As close the heads as you can get, probably. Yeah, I forgot that the stock manifolds are joined in the middle. I guess try to do each side as best you can.
#13
Racer
Thread Starter
On the bright side, at least the blinker works now.
#14
Team Owner
Pro Mechanic
Is your CTS showing values that "jibe"?
#15
Racer
Thread Starter
What do you mean by jibe? And CTS is coolant temp sensor or cat temp sensor?
#16
Team Owner
Pro Mechanic
Coolant temp sensor. By "jibe" I mean, does it seem to mesh with common sense evidence: when you turn the key on "cold" does the CTS read, say, 50-70°F when it's 60°F outside? When it's fully warmed up and the t-stat opens, is the CTS reading ~200°F or so? If those numbers align, or "jibe", that is believable. OTOH, if you turned the key on, it's 85°F where the car is sitting....and your CTS reads 40°F...now you got a problem. That reading is too far off and that would make your car run rich.
Since you have or are going to be using an IR temp gun in your exhaust, you can check the CTS as the engine warms and see if it's aligned, or if it "jibes" with your IR gun readings from the head or water pump housing.
Since you have or are going to be using an IR temp gun in your exhaust, you can check the CTS as the engine warms and see if it's aligned, or if it "jibes" with your IR gun readings from the head or water pump housing.
#17
Race Director
Just got some more time to look at the data log, both int sides stay at 128 until closed loop, then left goes to about 140 average and right to 180 average, with right getting as high as 194 and left getting as high as about 150 - there's an average difference of 30 between the two sides throughout the log, though I should also mention that during the recording the engine is revved a few times to see how the data changes.
The ecm thinks its running lean and so its correcting rich. Really rich. Did you not connect the maf sensor or something ?
Last edited by PatternDayTrader; 03-19-2018 at 08:53 PM.
#19
Instructor
I just got a chance to take a chance to look at the log file. First thing that I noticed is that you have what seems like a bunch of knock. Both of your O2 sensors are staying lean, either they are lazy, or they are telling the truth. If you could take another log running down the road it would help diagnose those.
Thanks,
Connor Coughlin
Thanks,
Connor Coughlin
#20
Racer
Thread Starter
Just checked cts, reads 57° key on cold and temps are at 53° this morning - love this weather.
Taking driver side apart now to make sure wires are on there correctly - wish I’d waited to put her together until the new wires were here.
Once that’s done, I’ll start her and run her around with the data logger recording
Taking driver side apart now to make sure wires are on there correctly - wish I’d waited to put her together until the new wires were here.
Once that’s done, I’ll start her and run her around with the data logger recording