Halltech Disappointment
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
Halltech Disappointment
I ordered the Halltech Stinger RZ and have been really disappointed so far.
I take my old intake off and begin installing the Halltech. First thing I noticed was the sticky back foam that is supposed to seal the intake box to the F frame is missing. I called Halltech and their response was “ Oh yeah, we ran out of that” I was really set back by this and the guy said nothing until I said “Really”. He then said to send him an email with my address and he would send me the foam. This was over a week ago and still nothing. I went and got my own foam the same day and proceeded with the install anyway. I get it all installed and find the hood does not close without springing the hinges. I fiddle with some things and decided if I had a longer 5/16” radiator hose I could route it under the air box. With this, I decided to watch the Halltech install video again and I noticed that in the video they run that hose under the air box. Problem is, they sent me 6” of 5/16” hose instead of the ~20” that is needed to do it this way. They must have been running short on this too or about to run out. Needless to say I went and got more hose. Now after routing under the air box the hood still does not shut without being sprung. I have moved stuff and it still doesn’t close properly....
Now on to another observation. I’m sorry, but the quality of this intake compared to the OEM intake is really cheesy. I paid $600 for this an so far I am very disappointed with quality, quality control, and customer service. Here’s more.
The routing of the radiator hose is tacky at best. In the video it states if you do it like they do you will have a 1/4” or so clearance with the alternator pulley and be sure as this will rub and eventually wear through. In my mind if you are going to have close clearance on a critical part like this you better secure it very well and not just with pushing stuff and zip ties.
I could go on but I know there are people that are very happy with this set up and that’s fine. Personally, I don’t care what quality cost (within reason) or customer service for that matter. I pay extra and buy local and it has paid off multiple times.
Halltech, please do not go into aircraft engineering.
I will sell this unused unit (with the proper parts for $500).
I take my old intake off and begin installing the Halltech. First thing I noticed was the sticky back foam that is supposed to seal the intake box to the F frame is missing. I called Halltech and their response was “ Oh yeah, we ran out of that” I was really set back by this and the guy said nothing until I said “Really”. He then said to send him an email with my address and he would send me the foam. This was over a week ago and still nothing. I went and got my own foam the same day and proceeded with the install anyway. I get it all installed and find the hood does not close without springing the hinges. I fiddle with some things and decided if I had a longer 5/16” radiator hose I could route it under the air box. With this, I decided to watch the Halltech install video again and I noticed that in the video they run that hose under the air box. Problem is, they sent me 6” of 5/16” hose instead of the ~20” that is needed to do it this way. They must have been running short on this too or about to run out. Needless to say I went and got more hose. Now after routing under the air box the hood still does not shut without being sprung. I have moved stuff and it still doesn’t close properly....
Now on to another observation. I’m sorry, but the quality of this intake compared to the OEM intake is really cheesy. I paid $600 for this an so far I am very disappointed with quality, quality control, and customer service. Here’s more.
The routing of the radiator hose is tacky at best. In the video it states if you do it like they do you will have a 1/4” or so clearance with the alternator pulley and be sure as this will rub and eventually wear through. In my mind if you are going to have close clearance on a critical part like this you better secure it very well and not just with pushing stuff and zip ties.
I could go on but I know there are people that are very happy with this set up and that’s fine. Personally, I don’t care what quality cost (within reason) or customer service for that matter. I pay extra and buy local and it has paid off multiple times.
Halltech, please do not go into aircraft engineering.
I will sell this unused unit (with the proper parts for $500).
The following 4 users liked this post by K1600GT:
The following users liked this post:
The Yav (04-27-2018)
#4
Former Vendor
Blasphemous! Clearly its your car that is defective not the intake. "3Z06ZR1" will set you straight!
Last edited by Terry@BMS; 03-16-2018 at 09:14 PM.
The following 5 users liked this post by Terry@BMS:
AZGASSER (03-16-2018),
C7/Z06 Man (03-16-2018),
JHEBERT (03-17-2018),
Shostopper (03-19-2018),
tail_lights (03-19-2018)
#6
Drifting
I had minimal fitment issues but did some hose rerouting with fuel line for the radiator overflows etc. My hood did close but I had read to really work/massage the airbox as low as possible to insure fitment.
As far as performance goes, I noticed minimal on a stock set up. I did not dyno but at the track there was not much. Would I do it again, no. Not sure how AFE stacks up but I would go the BMS filter and call it a day.
Kept it clear of the MAF housing.
No hood closing issues with the lines where they are.
Used a small metal clamp on the 10mm bolt to hold the line clear of the belts.
5/16ths fuel line. Very easy to work with.
As far as performance goes, I noticed minimal on a stock set up. I did not dyno but at the track there was not much. Would I do it again, no. Not sure how AFE stacks up but I would go the BMS filter and call it a day.
Kept it clear of the MAF housing.
No hood closing issues with the lines where they are.
Used a small metal clamp on the 10mm bolt to hold the line clear of the belts.
5/16ths fuel line. Very easy to work with.
The following users liked this post:
Perf n Restore (03-20-2018)
#7
Pro
Thread Starter
I’m sure it is too late after my rant on here. I accepted this before hitting the submit button. I have a BMS and will throw it back in the stock setup. I’m putting on Kooks long tubes, Flex fuel sensor, and a tune by Speed Inc. in Chicago. The Halltech will be minimal at best in this setup.
#8
Team Owner
I recommend loosing the two bolts holding it in place and push down the whole airbox very firmly. Then retighten I just put my 2nd one on last week. Car runs great. Mine is not touching the hood. My other Halltech on my other car does barely touch but it hasn't been an issue. I bought 24 inches of hose for $2.00 went under the unit. Then if you have the nomex sock it doesn't if your hose touches the nomex.
You also can grab the squeeze clamp on the big hose. Then twist it a little and it swings down more out of the way.
My unit had two seals for the tube one in place and one extra in the bag. It just keeps warm air out from under hood it doesn't let dirt pass the filter.
Still needed though.
Oh well I don't sell them or make a dime.
I just like the 40 rwhp. It seems to make everytime. Nothing wrong with the BMS Filter either obvious huge improvement (I bought and examined it one but never tried it). over the crap stock filter. But at 800 hp level I'm doing on 2 cars the Halltech is the unit.
Last edited by 3 Z06ZR1; 03-16-2018 at 09:48 PM.
#9
I got mine used from a forum member but the fit is definitely not the greatest. Having said that i can't complain about the performance my car has been 9.7'S with it. My biggest gripe with it is the stupid pipe seal that you glue/stick on, terrible design choice imo. That part of the design is so much better on the AFE.
Last edited by rflow306; 03-16-2018 at 09:39 PM.
The following users liked this post:
C7/Z06 Man (03-16-2018)
#11
Pro
Thread Starter
I recommend loosing the two bolts holding it in place and push down the whole airbox very firmly. Then retighten I just put my 2nd one on last week. Car runs great. Mine is not touching the hood. My other Halltech on my other car does barely touch but it hasn't been an issue. I bought 24 inches of hose for $2.00 went under the unit. Then if you have the nomex sock it doesn't if your hose touches the nomex.
You also can grab the squeeze clamp on the big hose. Then twist it a little and it swings down more out of the way.
My unit had two seals for the tube one in place and one extra in the bag. It just keeps warm air out from under hood it doesn't let dirt pass the filter.
Still needed though.
Oh well I don't sell them or make a dime.
I just like the 40 rwhp. It seems to make everytime. Nothing wrong with the BMS Filter either obvious huge improvement (I bought and examined it one but never tried it). over the crap stock filter. But at 800 hp level I'm doing on 2 cars the Halltech is the unit.
You also can grab the squeeze clamp on the big hose. Then twist it a little and it swings down more out of the way.
My unit had two seals for the tube one in place and one extra in the bag. It just keeps warm air out from under hood it doesn't let dirt pass the filter.
Still needed though.
Oh well I don't sell them or make a dime.
I just like the 40 rwhp. It seems to make everytime. Nothing wrong with the BMS Filter either obvious huge improvement (I bought and examined it one but never tried it). over the crap stock filter. But at 800 hp level I'm doing on 2 cars the Halltech is the unit.
The following users liked this post:
C7/Z06 Man (03-16-2018)
#12
Team Owner
Yep on the stock car the BMS is fine and my choice too! But when you add this! Plus 2 inch coated ARH headers! You want the extra CFM and less restriction...
#13
Safety Car
I installed this modest aftermarket CAI on my stocker which fits great without cutting any factory lines or wire tying that can be put directly back to stock if you don't like having a window to view your filter, etc.
Then I installed AFE's Gray/White 'Low Flow' filter below; so not to run too lean on the stock tune which would pull timing.
The egg shaped 2000° aluminum you see 'I' installed which is underneath and out of sight and is approx. 1/4" 'away' from touching the heater hose in that area to begin with as installed.
The time slip below is an example of the 'Crappy' results you may get in good air with a 260 lb. driver.
Then I installed AFE's Gray/White 'Low Flow' filter below; so not to run too lean on the stock tune which would pull timing.
The egg shaped 2000° aluminum you see 'I' installed which is underneath and out of sight and is approx. 1/4" 'away' from touching the heater hose in that area to begin with as installed.
The time slip below is an example of the 'Crappy' results you may get in good air with a 260 lb. driver.
Last edited by C7/Z06 Man; 03-17-2018 at 12:13 AM.
#14
Safety Car
Last edited by C7/Z06 Man; 03-17-2018 at 02:52 PM.
#19
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Oct 2005
Location: Metro Detroit Michigan
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#20
Former Vendor
The short answer is I'm not sure. We focused testing on the 550-630whp range. e.g. stock or stock + pulley. We did design a higher flowing model that requires you to cut the cage off the airbox, but at the 630whp level it offered no improvement, and increased the chances you'd need tuning to avoid a MAF fault, so we didn't move forward with production. If there is demand at some point we'll fire that development back up. But I think the main appeal of the BMS intake is to the mostly stock or stock + pulley + tuning crowd.
Last edited by Terry@BMS; 03-17-2018 at 12:54 PM.