Nonmatching numbers car question
#1
Nonmatching numbers car question
Last year my uncle passed away. He had a large collection of cars of which was a 1966 Corvette Coupe. The car was a big block but according to my uncle the engine was stolen from the car long ago. It now has a 350 and a 3 speed automatic. It is a driver in decent shape but not perfect. I am thinking of buying the car from my cousin who is cleaning up the estate but really have no clue what a fair price would be for a car like this. The cousin is not a car expert and doesn't know either. Obviously I don't want to rip off my cousin nor do I want to vastly overpay either. I am looking for some input for a range of values this car could be worth. My initial thought was ~$20,000-$25,000 but I could be vastly offbase with that. Any input would be appreciated.
Last edited by jwilkow; 03-17-2018 at 03:50 PM.
#2
Le Mans Master
Hard to say with any precision what the car is worth, but you can't buy a flat bed trailer piled high with all the parts that go together to build a complete mid-year Corvette for $25,000. So, for starters, add a minimum of $10-15,000 to your estimate. Then go up from there depending on a dozen more factors we can discuss after seeing some good images of top, bottom, inside and outside of the car.
Now that you have added the one photo, I will say $40k starting point, if it is a running car.
Now that you have added the one photo, I will say $40k starting point, if it is a running car.
Last edited by 65hihp; 03-17-2018 at 04:49 PM.
#3
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You will get a lot more responses if you post some pics.
#5
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20 -25K gets you a roached out old wreck of a mid year. that car looks to be a mid 30's or more if all it needs is to make it run and stop then maybe more.
#6
Melting Slicks
The family good deal should allow you to buy it for $30,000. If you flip it, your cousin might get mad-rightfully so.
Your cousin is probably searching the net for pricing and has $60,000 in mind. It's worth somewhere in between those numbers but probably much closer to the low number. Condition and options make a big difference.
Your cousin is probably searching the net for pricing and has $60,000 in mind. It's worth somewhere in between those numbers but probably much closer to the low number. Condition and options make a big difference.
#7
Safety Car
Three things right off the bat:
1. Check for rear anti-roll bar, presence of which will indicate (possible) 427 engine for 1966. Presence of 1 1/4" holes at upper rear area of trailing arms indicate bar was once present if it's now missing.
2. Picture of instrument panel, notably tachometer and oil pressure gauge will provide more evidence.
3. Presence of u-joint caps rather than straps.
The difference in price between a #1 327/350 1966 Corvette and a #1 427/425 Corvette is in the neighborhood of 50K. IIWY, I'd start with pictures and then look into hiring an expert to inspect this car for clues.
1. Check for rear anti-roll bar, presence of which will indicate (possible) 427 engine for 1966. Presence of 1 1/4" holes at upper rear area of trailing arms indicate bar was once present if it's now missing.
2. Picture of instrument panel, notably tachometer and oil pressure gauge will provide more evidence.
3. Presence of u-joint caps rather than straps.
The difference in price between a #1 327/350 1966 Corvette and a #1 427/425 Corvette is in the neighborhood of 50K. IIWY, I'd start with pictures and then look into hiring an expert to inspect this car for clues.
Last edited by 65tripleblack; 03-17-2018 at 05:04 PM.
#8
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Two things right off the bat:
1. Check for rear anti-roll bar presence of which will indicate (possible) 427 engine for 1966. There was only one available: a solid lifter 425 or 450 HP version depending on build date. This is a more potent engine than the "legendary" 1967 427/ "435".
2. Picture of instrument panel, notably tachometer and oil pressure gauge will provide more evidence.
The difference in price between a #1 327/350 1966 Corvette and a #1 427/425 Corvette is in the neighborhood of 50K. IIWY, I'd start with pictures and then look into hiring an expert to inspect this car for clues.
1. Check for rear anti-roll bar presence of which will indicate (possible) 427 engine for 1966. There was only one available: a solid lifter 425 or 450 HP version depending on build date. This is a more potent engine than the "legendary" 1967 427/ "435".
2. Picture of instrument panel, notably tachometer and oil pressure gauge will provide more evidence.
The difference in price between a #1 327/350 1966 Corvette and a #1 427/425 Corvette is in the neighborhood of 50K. IIWY, I'd start with pictures and then look into hiring an expert to inspect this car for clues.
Last edited by Nowhere Man; 03-17-2018 at 05:44 PM.
#9
Burning Brakes
Two things right off the bat:
1. Check for rear anti-roll bar, presence of which will indicate (possible) 427 engine for 1966. There was only one available: a solid lifter 425 or 450 HP version depending on build date. This is a more potent engine than the "legendary" 1967 427/ "435".
1. Check for rear anti-roll bar, presence of which will indicate (possible) 427 engine for 1966. There was only one available: a solid lifter 425 or 450 HP version depending on build date. This is a more potent engine than the "legendary" 1967 427/ "435".
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#13
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#14
I would agree with you 20-25k. If you want to keep the car and remember your uncle AND your cousin agrees it is a fair price. It's a done deal. He could try to get more and he may spend months with tire kickers and everyone telling him what is wrong and what you should do with it... If both feel good with the deal at 5k then it's a fair deal for both. Family is more important than a few bucks.
Good luck, enjoy it and think of your family when you drive it. Be sure to take your cousin on a few rides too.
People always ask me how much mine is worth and tell them - I don't care, it was my dads and it not for sale. Ever!
Good luck, enjoy it and think of your family when you drive it. Be sure to take your cousin on a few rides too.
People always ask me how much mine is worth and tell them - I don't care, it was my dads and it not for sale. Ever!
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#15
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I would agree with you 20-25k. If you want to keep the car and remember your uncle AND your cousin agrees it is a fair price. It's a done deal. He could try to get more and he may spend months with tire kickers and everyone telling him what is wrong and what you should do with it... If both feel good with the deal at 5k then it's a fair deal for both. Family is more important than a few bucks.
Good luck, enjoy it and think of your family when you drive it. Be sure to take your cousin on a few rides too.
People always ask me how much mine is worth and tell them - I don't care, it was my dads and it not for sale. Ever!
Good luck, enjoy it and think of your family when you drive it. Be sure to take your cousin on a few rides too.
People always ask me how much mine is worth and tell them - I don't care, it was my dads and it not for sale. Ever!
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#16
Le Mans Master
It's a wonderful idea if you are the buyer. Not so much if you are the seller.
Family is great and all. But very often family can be more cutthroat than perfect stranger sales.
Family is great and all. But very often family can be more cutthroat than perfect stranger sales.
#17
I would agree with you 20-25k. If you want to keep the car and remember your uncle AND your cousin agrees it is a fair price. It's a done deal. He could try to get more and he may spend months with tire kickers and everyone telling him what is wrong and what you should do with it... If both feel good with the deal at 5k then it's a fair deal for both. Family is more important than a few bucks.
Good luck, enjoy it and think of your family when you drive it. Be sure to take your cousin on a few rides too.
People always ask me how much mine is worth and tell them - I don't care, it was my dads and it not for sale. Ever!
Good luck, enjoy it and think of your family when you drive it. Be sure to take your cousin on a few rides too.
People always ask me how much mine is worth and tell them - I don't care, it was my dads and it not for sale. Ever!
#18
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Please show me all these 20’s mid years. I guess you sold that 65 for less then 40 if we are using early 2000 price guides
#19
Team Owner
Nowhere Man is right...unless you get a "family discount" the car would normally bring more than those figures
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; 03-17-2018 at 06:26 PM.
#20
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The mid years I see for 20 something are roached out old wrecks or with ugly flairs and other 70’s body mods. Gutted or rough interior questionable frames and no drive lines. Which is perfect for resto mods.