Alignment Before or After
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Alignment Before or After
I just ordered a 2019 Z06. When I get it I want to do an alignment right away for daily driving. Should I wait until the 500 mile oil change and let everything settle down a little bit, or is it ok to do it immediately Any advice would be appreciated. Thank You
Last edited by mdolandese; 03-22-2018 at 09:43 PM.
#2
#3
Le Mans Master
Wait until the 500-mile oil change.
#4
Race Director
The suspension needs a bit of time to settle, so wait for at least 500 to 1000 miles before getting the alignment done in order for it to be more precise.
#5
Waiting that long won't hurt one thing, and letting everything settle will help.
The last two Vettes I bought, I got an alignment before taking delivery, but then also got one at the first oil change (after letting it settle).
Now, they owe you one before 7500 mi, (IIRC), so there is no harm to wait, IMO.
#7
Melting Slicks
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2020 C8 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
Waiting that long won't hurt one thing, and letting everything settle will help.
The last two Vettes I bought, I got an alignment before taking delivery, but then also got one at the first oil change (after letting it settle).
Now, they owe you one before 7500 mi, (IIRC), so there is no harm to wait, IMO.
What is IIRC ? What would tell me that the dealer owes one, if requested before 7500 miles? I'd like to see where mine's at and perhaps reset it if too aggressive if that's the case.
Thanks,
Richard
#8
Team Owner
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Strake (03-22-2018)
#9
IIRC= If I Recall Correctly.
In the year or two after I bought mine, many notices came out that allowed dealers to do many things to correct earlier "issues. " The 500 mi. dry-sump oil change being one of them adding a extra "free" one to the either 4 or 2 you were owed(depending on MY).
Many were rightfully complaining about the aggressive factory alignment causing premature tire wear, and so they (GM) said that GM would allow the dealer to do an alignment gratis up to 7500 miles. As far as I know (AFAIK), this policy is still in place.
In the year or two after I bought mine, many notices came out that allowed dealers to do many things to correct earlier "issues. " The 500 mi. dry-sump oil change being one of them adding a extra "free" one to the either 4 or 2 you were owed(depending on MY).
Many were rightfully complaining about the aggressive factory alignment causing premature tire wear, and so they (GM) said that GM would allow the dealer to do an alignment gratis up to 7500 miles. As far as I know (AFAIK), this policy is still in place.
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Strake (03-23-2018)
#10
Advanced
Do it at 500 , then have it checked later before the 7500. Warranty has always been 7500 or less on all GM cars or trucks. Just say it drifts or pulls , then they can check it. See if it matches up still with the first alignment.
#11
Melting Slicks
Check with your dealer; I believe they will do it for free within the first 3 months. Ask if they will take some of the Camber out (-.5 MAX), the car comes set at -.8 or so. This will keep your front tires from wearing out on the insides.
#12
E-Ray, 3LZ, ZER, LIFT
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I waited 400 but went over RR tacks a few times!
Actually no choice, RR tracks are about the only rough sports for me in Eastern SC!
My Grand Sport rears were set at -1.6 degrees camber. Can drive a truck though the GM spec, it allows -0.5 to -1.7. Would all read green OK on Hunter alignment machine. I only had one toe slightly out.
I brought a sheet with GM range for each wheel and what I wanted. Tech adjusted all as requested and centered all toes to spec, which are essentially 0. All on GM's dime.
If you just say check that is what you'll get and perhaps like mine very negative cambers. Great for Tracking but not tire wear.
Actually no choice, RR tracks are about the only rough sports for me in Eastern SC!
My Grand Sport rears were set at -1.6 degrees camber. Can drive a truck though the GM spec, it allows -0.5 to -1.7. Would all read green OK on Hunter alignment machine. I only had one toe slightly out.
I brought a sheet with GM range for each wheel and what I wanted. Tech adjusted all as requested and centered all toes to spec, which are essentially 0. All on GM's dime.
If you just say check that is what you'll get and perhaps like mine very negative cambers. Great for Tracking but not tire wear.
Last edited by JerryU; 03-23-2018 at 06:54 PM.
#13
Race Director
I waited 400 but went over RR tacks a few times!
Actually no choice, RR tracks are about the only rough sports for me in Eastern SC!
My Grand Sport rears were set at -1.6 degrees camber. Can drive a truck though the GM spec, it allows -0.5 to -1.7. Would all read green OK on Hunter alignment machine. I only had one toe slightly out.
I brought a sheet with GM range for each wheel and what I wanted. Tech adjusted all as requested and centered all toes to spec, which are essentially 0. All on GM's dime.
If you just say check that is what you'll get and perhaps like mine very negative cambers. Great for Tracking but not tire wear.
Actually no choice, RR tracks are about the only rough sports for me in Eastern SC!
My Grand Sport rears were set at -1.6 degrees camber. Can drive a truck though the GM spec, it allows -0.5 to -1.7. Would all read green OK on Hunter alignment machine. I only had one toe slightly out.
I brought a sheet with GM range for each wheel and what I wanted. Tech adjusted all as requested and centered all toes to spec, which are essentially 0. All on GM's dime.
If you just say check that is what you'll get and perhaps like mine very negative cambers. Great for Tracking but not tire wear.
Every owner of a c4 through present, should stand in front and behind their car and look carefully; if it seems like the tires are tilted in, then they probably are, and you should consider having the alignment at least checked.
#14
wait at least 1500-2000 miles to let the leaf springs settle somewhat and then align
#17
E-Ray, 3LZ, ZER, LIFT
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Hmm, not sure what Pfarr is or says. Suggest posting.
Can’t see how anyone can guess what compromise you want. For example on my Grand Sport rear camber I picked -0.8 camber from allowed GM range of -0.5 to -1.7. That fits my desire for performance and tire wear for only street use.
Can’t see how anyone can guess what compromise you want. For example on my Grand Sport rear camber I picked -0.8 camber from allowed GM range of -0.5 to -1.7. That fits my desire for performance and tire wear for only street use.
#19
E-Ray, 3LZ, ZER, LIFT
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^^
That was my thought as well. Springs are single piece composite don’t need to “settle” but rubber bushings on ends and on other suspension members due to some degree. Few trips over RR tracks should help!
That was my thought as well. Springs are single piece composite don’t need to “settle” but rubber bushings on ends and on other suspension members due to some degree. Few trips over RR tracks should help!
Last edited by JerryU; 03-24-2018 at 11:41 AM.
#20
Pro
Hmm, not sure what Pfarr is or says. Suggest posting.
Can’t see how anyone can guess what compromise you want. For example on my Grand Sport rear camber I picked -0.8 camber from allowed GM range of -0.5 to -1.7. That fits my desire for performance and tire wear for only street use.
Here is the link to their settings: http://www.pfadtracing.com/docs/camb...t-settings.pdf
They have Pure Steet:
Front
Camber -0.8deg
Caster 8.0deg
Toe 0.0in
Rear
Camber -0.5deg
Toe 0.0in
Dual Street / Track
Front
Camber -1.2deg
Caster 5 to 8deg
Toe 0.0in
Rear
Camber -0.8deg
Toe 0.0in
Notes
For using street tires and driving to and from the track
This setting will work for R-compounds at the track.
Dual Street / Track Aggressive
Front
Camber -1.6deg
Caster 5 to 8deg
Toe 0.0in
Rear
Camber -1.1deg
Toe - 1/8in
Notes
For using R-compound tires, and minimal street driving.
This setting will cause wear on the inside edges of street tires