HELP harmonic balancer vs dealership issue
#1
HELP harmonic balancer vs dealership issue
Ok so sorry for the long post, wanna get all the facts in for anyone that might have input or be helpful has them all.
2007 base c6, 78k miles, mods I did (LT, muffler, tune) Mods when purchased (intake) and a cam/springs/retainer that I did not do nor did the dealership obviously know about that were in the motor when they tore into it
-About 2 months ago I drive my car in for my high pressure steering hose leaking to be fixed under my extended warranty that I purchased with the car (used) all mods on the car now were on it then also. They call me and say hey your balancer and the shims are coming out, we called your warranty company and they said we could go ahead and replace it for free. I say awesome yes please.
-After about 2 weeks I get the car back and drive it home, between work and weather it doesn't get driven but about 250 miles. All driving is as normal as the day I got it no vibrations or sounds or anything. Driving home going about 80 at about 4k rpm I get this sound like I hit something in the road, so I pull off and it gets louder and a more violent shake to the car so I kill the motor. When I pop the hood everything looks fine BUT the bolt that holds the balancer on is backed all the way out to the steering rack (rack needs dropped to take bolt out)
-I take the car to the dealer and they say they are gonna go through the warranty company (I know its there fault the whole time but I'm like whatever its getting fixed) so they tell me they need to take it apart to he point of failure and an adjuster will come out I say ok.
-Now on to today, they call me and say the warranty company wont cover it due to the mods. Which I say ok I get, BUT this isn't a mods issue. I think this is human/tech error on installing the bolt, upon inspection the torque tube is bent, crank is messed up, and overall its "out of balance" (which isn't that what the balancer does you asshats lol) and are saying I need a whole new motor along with other things. My reasoning and please anyone correct me if I'm wrong on these before I go in on Monday and talk to the owner....
-they replaced the balancer and the BALANCER bolt backed out
-I cant see any visible Loctite on the threads (service manager stated it was a already locktited bolt??)
-I called a corvette tech at another dealership and he said he has never seen that happen.
-I went to there sister dealership across the street and the 9 techs there said that has never happened
-The bolt tightens clockwise and the balancer spins clockwise
So I guess I'm asking is do balancer bolts just back out, after 200 miles, or at all??? They're also claiming that something else (torque tube) was "out of balance" and that's what messed the balancer up in the first place (this is a common issue we all know about, it just happens on our motors) and stated if they put a new balancer on it would just do it again.
Do I have a case here from a technical standpoint or is this a I'm **** outta luck type thing cause this happens to our cars?
Thanks for any input or tech advice I can use on them etc....
2007 base c6, 78k miles, mods I did (LT, muffler, tune) Mods when purchased (intake) and a cam/springs/retainer that I did not do nor did the dealership obviously know about that were in the motor when they tore into it
-About 2 months ago I drive my car in for my high pressure steering hose leaking to be fixed under my extended warranty that I purchased with the car (used) all mods on the car now were on it then also. They call me and say hey your balancer and the shims are coming out, we called your warranty company and they said we could go ahead and replace it for free. I say awesome yes please.
-After about 2 weeks I get the car back and drive it home, between work and weather it doesn't get driven but about 250 miles. All driving is as normal as the day I got it no vibrations or sounds or anything. Driving home going about 80 at about 4k rpm I get this sound like I hit something in the road, so I pull off and it gets louder and a more violent shake to the car so I kill the motor. When I pop the hood everything looks fine BUT the bolt that holds the balancer on is backed all the way out to the steering rack (rack needs dropped to take bolt out)
-I take the car to the dealer and they say they are gonna go through the warranty company (I know its there fault the whole time but I'm like whatever its getting fixed) so they tell me they need to take it apart to he point of failure and an adjuster will come out I say ok.
-Now on to today, they call me and say the warranty company wont cover it due to the mods. Which I say ok I get, BUT this isn't a mods issue. I think this is human/tech error on installing the bolt, upon inspection the torque tube is bent, crank is messed up, and overall its "out of balance" (which isn't that what the balancer does you asshats lol) and are saying I need a whole new motor along with other things. My reasoning and please anyone correct me if I'm wrong on these before I go in on Monday and talk to the owner....
-they replaced the balancer and the BALANCER bolt backed out
-I cant see any visible Loctite on the threads (service manager stated it was a already locktited bolt??)
-I called a corvette tech at another dealership and he said he has never seen that happen.
-I went to there sister dealership across the street and the 9 techs there said that has never happened
-The bolt tightens clockwise and the balancer spins clockwise
So I guess I'm asking is do balancer bolts just back out, after 200 miles, or at all??? They're also claiming that something else (torque tube) was "out of balance" and that's what messed the balancer up in the first place (this is a common issue we all know about, it just happens on our motors) and stated if they put a new balancer on it would just do it again.
Do I have a case here from a technical standpoint or is this a I'm **** outta luck type thing cause this happens to our cars?
Thanks for any input or tech advice I can use on them etc....
#2
Safety Car
Ok so sorry for the long post, wanna get all the facts in for anyone that might have input or be helpful has them all.
2007 base c6, 78k miles, mods I did (LT, muffler, tune) Mods when purchased (intake) and a cam/springs/retainer that I did not do nor did the dealership obviously know about that were in the motor when they tore into it
-About 2 months ago I drive my car in for my high pressure steering hose leaking to be fixed under my extended warranty that I purchased with the car (used) all mods on the car now were on it then also. They call me and say hey your balancer and the shims are coming out, we called your warranty company and they said we could go ahead and replace it for free. I say awesome yes please.
-After about 2 weeks I get the car back and drive it home, between work and weather it doesn't get driven but about 250 miles. All driving is as normal as the day I got it no vibrations or sounds or anything. Driving home going about 80 at about 4k rpm I get this sound like I hit something in the road, so I pull off and it gets louder and a more violent shake to the car so I kill the motor. When I pop the hood everything looks fine BUT the bolt that holds the balancer on is backed all the way out to the steering rack (rack needs dropped to take bolt out)
-I take the car to the dealer and they say they are gonna go through the warranty company (I know its there fault the whole time but I'm like whatever its getting fixed) so they tell me they need to take it apart to he point of failure and an adjuster will come out I say ok.
-Now on to today, they call me and say the warranty company wont cover it due to the mods. Which I say ok I get, BUT this isn't a mods issue. I think this is human/tech error on installing the bolt, upon inspection the torque tube is bent, crank is messed up, and overall its "out of balance" (which isn't that what the balancer does you asshats lol) and are saying I need a whole new motor along with other things. My reasoning and please anyone correct me if I'm wrong on these before I go in on Monday and talk to the owner....
-they replaced the balancer and the BALANCER bolt backed out
-I cant see any visible Loctite on the threads (service manager stated it was a already locktited bolt??)
-I called a corvette tech at another dealership and he said he has never seen that happen.
-I went to there sister dealership across the street and the 9 techs there said that has never happened
-The bolt tightens clockwise and the balancer spins clockwise
So I guess I'm asking is do balancer bolts just back out, after 200 miles, or at all??? They're also claiming that something else (torque tube) was "out of balance" and that's what messed the balancer up in the first place (this is a common issue we all know about, it just happens on our motors) and stated if they put a new balancer on it would just do it again.
Do I have a case here from a technical standpoint or is this a I'm **** outta luck type thing cause this happens to our cars?
Thanks for any input or tech advice I can use on them etc....
2007 base c6, 78k miles, mods I did (LT, muffler, tune) Mods when purchased (intake) and a cam/springs/retainer that I did not do nor did the dealership obviously know about that were in the motor when they tore into it
-About 2 months ago I drive my car in for my high pressure steering hose leaking to be fixed under my extended warranty that I purchased with the car (used) all mods on the car now were on it then also. They call me and say hey your balancer and the shims are coming out, we called your warranty company and they said we could go ahead and replace it for free. I say awesome yes please.
-After about 2 weeks I get the car back and drive it home, between work and weather it doesn't get driven but about 250 miles. All driving is as normal as the day I got it no vibrations or sounds or anything. Driving home going about 80 at about 4k rpm I get this sound like I hit something in the road, so I pull off and it gets louder and a more violent shake to the car so I kill the motor. When I pop the hood everything looks fine BUT the bolt that holds the balancer on is backed all the way out to the steering rack (rack needs dropped to take bolt out)
-I take the car to the dealer and they say they are gonna go through the warranty company (I know its there fault the whole time but I'm like whatever its getting fixed) so they tell me they need to take it apart to he point of failure and an adjuster will come out I say ok.
-Now on to today, they call me and say the warranty company wont cover it due to the mods. Which I say ok I get, BUT this isn't a mods issue. I think this is human/tech error on installing the bolt, upon inspection the torque tube is bent, crank is messed up, and overall its "out of balance" (which isn't that what the balancer does you asshats lol) and are saying I need a whole new motor along with other things. My reasoning and please anyone correct me if I'm wrong on these before I go in on Monday and talk to the owner....
-they replaced the balancer and the BALANCER bolt backed out
-I cant see any visible Loctite on the threads (service manager stated it was a already locktited bolt??)
-I called a corvette tech at another dealership and he said he has never seen that happen.
-I went to there sister dealership across the street and the 9 techs there said that has never happened
-The bolt tightens clockwise and the balancer spins clockwise
So I guess I'm asking is do balancer bolts just back out, after 200 miles, or at all??? They're also claiming that something else (torque tube) was "out of balance" and that's what messed the balancer up in the first place (this is a common issue we all know about, it just happens on our motors) and stated if they put a new balancer on it would just do it again.
Do I have a case here from a technical standpoint or is this a I'm **** outta luck type thing cause this happens to our cars?
Thanks for any input or tech advice I can use on them etc....
Last edited by irok; 03-23-2018 at 07:24 PM.
#3
Race Director
That is a one time use bolt. Once it is removed a new bolt MUST be used. It doesn't look to me like a new bolt in that photo. I would say a new bolt torqued correctly will solve your problem.
irok got in before me!
irok got in before me!
Last edited by EVRose; 03-23-2018 at 07:18 PM.
#4
Safety Car
I've changed enough of these and that is not a new bolt.no bolt torqued once will look like that
Last edited by irok; 03-23-2018 at 07:46 PM.
#5
Drifting
The factory bolt does come with the red loctite already on it (as you can see in the pic, the whole hat on the flange has it). The question is if they did the correct installation/torque sequence.
If it comes off, like your pics, idk if it would f'up everything behind it as stated by the dealer.
Plenty of threads about the balancer coming off but no collateral damage to the extreme of what your describing (that I've read).
Good luck.
If it comes off, like your pics, idk if it would f'up everything behind it as stated by the dealer.
Plenty of threads about the balancer coming off but no collateral damage to the extreme of what your describing (that I've read).
Good luck.
#7
Drifting
They need to call their insurance company because they are going to have a high repair bill
This is a problem that we've seen before because techs don't read the manual. There is a very specific torque process that has to be followed. And the bolt is not reusable. They owe you. Good luck
Cracked torque tube? hmm, I cant imagine the mods doing that. I expect it was the vibration when the bolt backed out. check your motor mounts too
This is a problem that we've seen before because techs don't read the manual. There is a very specific torque process that has to be followed. And the bolt is not reusable. They owe you. Good luck
Cracked torque tube? hmm, I cant imagine the mods doing that. I expect it was the vibration when the bolt backed out. check your motor mounts too
#8
They need to call their insurance company because they are going to have a high repair bill
This is a problem that we've seen before because techs don't read the manual. There is a very specific torque process that has to be followed. And the bolt is not reusable. They owe you. Good luck
Cracked torque tube? hmm, I cant imagine the mods doing that. I expect it was the vibration when the bolt backed out. check your motor mounts too
This is a problem that we've seen before because techs don't read the manual. There is a very specific torque process that has to be followed. And the bolt is not reusable. They owe you. Good luck
Cracked torque tube? hmm, I cant imagine the mods doing that. I expect it was the vibration when the bolt backed out. check your motor mounts too
The first thing I said to them was the bolt looked old, rusted and it’s sits ina garage and doesn’t see water and she swore it was new
#10
Safety Car
they said a “bend in the tube” again off of notes the actual tech wasn’t there but I’m assuming he’s the one who worked on it the first time so of course he isn’t gonna say he fucked up. I feel like the bearing would go before a stockish LS2 would bend the damn tube or internals.
The first thing I said to them was the bolt looked old, rusted and it’s sits ina garage and doesn’t see water and she swore it was new
#11
Melting Slicks
#12
Melting Slicks
That does not look to me to be a new bolt. Based on what the OP has said, I'll lay blame on improper balancer installation. The GM procedure was not followed. Is/was there a diamond washer behind the balancer? I use red Loctite, and the diamond washer when installing the balancer and paint pen the bolt head and balancer. If it is not fully seated, the bolt can back out. If the balancer has spun on the crank snout, the crank may be ruined. Did the balancer rub on the backside of the steering rack? They too, may be ruined.
#13
That does not look to me to be a new bolt. Based on what the OP has said, I'll lay blame on improper balancer installation. The GM procedure was not followed. Is/was there a diamond washer behind the balancer? I use red Loctite, and the diamond washer when installing the balancer and paint pen the bolt head and balancer. If it is not fully seated, the bolt can back out. If the balancer has spun on the crank snout, the crank may be ruined. Did the balancer rub on the backside of the steering rack? They too, may be ruined.
I also believe they didnt follow procedure as there’s a seal your supposed to replace and I was getting a small oil leak after the install and for the life of me couldn’t find it and this must have been it.
#15
sooo I def think I have them by the ***** now, the bolt looks beat up but could possibly be new and just sitting around for years. There is blue locktite on the bottom of the treads, but also looks old.
The service bulletin states as such
Install and tighten the new crankshaft bolt.
• Tighten the crankshaft balancer bolt a first pass.
Tighten
Tighten the crankshaft balancer bolt a first pass to 50N•m (37 lb ft).
Put a paint stripe on the bolt running from the 12 o'clock to the 6 o'clock position in order to verify the correct torque requested in the next step.
• Important: When tightening for the second pass, a minimum torque of 320 N•m (236 lb ft) should be observed. If this torque is not achieved, the bolt should be replaced.
Tighten the crankshaft balancer bolt a second pass.
Tighten
Tighten the crankshaft balancer bolt a second pass to 140 degrees using the J 45059.
Important: Recheck the position of the previously painted stripe to assure 140 degree rotation. Achieving the correct torque angle is critical to the success of this repair. Over-torquing or under-torquing the joint will result in an unsatisfactory repair.
After talking to the manager he said ill hear from him tomorrow after he investigates into it, waiting game, still....
The service bulletin states as such
Install and tighten the new crankshaft bolt.
• Tighten the crankshaft balancer bolt a first pass.
Tighten
Tighten the crankshaft balancer bolt a first pass to 50N•m (37 lb ft).
Put a paint stripe on the bolt running from the 12 o'clock to the 6 o'clock position in order to verify the correct torque requested in the next step.
• Important: When tightening for the second pass, a minimum torque of 320 N•m (236 lb ft) should be observed. If this torque is not achieved, the bolt should be replaced.
Tighten the crankshaft balancer bolt a second pass.
Tighten
Tighten the crankshaft balancer bolt a second pass to 140 degrees using the J 45059.
Important: Recheck the position of the previously painted stripe to assure 140 degree rotation. Achieving the correct torque angle is critical to the success of this repair. Over-torquing or under-torquing the joint will result in an unsatisfactory repair.
After talking to the manager he said ill hear from him tomorrow after he investigates into it, waiting game, still....
#16
Safety Car
sooo I def think I have them by the ***** now, the bolt looks beat up but could possibly be new and just sitting around for years. There is blue locktite on the bottom of the treads, but also looks old.
The service bulletin states as such
Install and tighten the new crankshaft bolt.
• Tighten the crankshaft balancer bolt a first pass.
Tighten
Tighten the crankshaft balancer bolt a first pass to 50N•m (37 lb ft).
Put a paint stripe on the bolt running from the 12 o'clock to the 6 o'clock position in order to verify the correct torque requested in the next step.
• Important: When tightening for the second pass, a minimum torque of 320 N•m (236 lb ft) should be observed. If this torque is not achieved, the bolt should be replaced.
Tighten the crankshaft balancer bolt a second pass.
Tighten
Tighten the crankshaft balancer bolt a second pass to 140 degrees using the J 45059.
Important: Recheck the position of the previously painted stripe to assure 140 degree rotation. Achieving the correct torque angle is critical to the success of this repair. Over-torquing or under-torquing the joint will result in an unsatisfactory repair.
After talking to the manager he said ill hear from him tomorrow after he investigates into it, waiting game, still....
The service bulletin states as such
Install and tighten the new crankshaft bolt.
• Tighten the crankshaft balancer bolt a first pass.
Tighten
Tighten the crankshaft balancer bolt a first pass to 50N•m (37 lb ft).
Put a paint stripe on the bolt running from the 12 o'clock to the 6 o'clock position in order to verify the correct torque requested in the next step.
• Important: When tightening for the second pass, a minimum torque of 320 N•m (236 lb ft) should be observed. If this torque is not achieved, the bolt should be replaced.
Tighten the crankshaft balancer bolt a second pass.
Tighten
Tighten the crankshaft balancer bolt a second pass to 140 degrees using the J 45059.
Important: Recheck the position of the previously painted stripe to assure 140 degree rotation. Achieving the correct torque angle is critical to the success of this repair. Over-torquing or under-torquing the joint will result in an unsatisfactory repair.
After talking to the manager he said ill hear from him tomorrow after he investigates into it, waiting game, still....
#17
Last edited by rjemison1109; 03-26-2018 at 12:46 PM.
#18
Drifting
I wont comment on if you have a case or not. Wont go there.
What I will say is find a reputable shop in your area who works on Vettes. Get it done right. Extended Warranties are nice and all, but to my experience (and a few others on here), it is still work being done by a dealer...and that doesnt mean that it is good work. It just means they hired someone who can read a manual and follow instructions. But I digress. Either do it yourself and get a good Vette shop.
Torque tube out of balance? That shouldnt fly. If the TT was jacked, you have a few other issues. These are also internally balanced engines. It truly is a pulley more than a balancer and shouldnt get thrown off by the TT. Sounds like they are blowing smoke up your *** by trying to blame other parts and not bad workmanship.
What I will say is find a reputable shop in your area who works on Vettes. Get it done right. Extended Warranties are nice and all, but to my experience (and a few others on here), it is still work being done by a dealer...and that doesnt mean that it is good work. It just means they hired someone who can read a manual and follow instructions. But I digress. Either do it yourself and get a good Vette shop.
Torque tube out of balance? That shouldnt fly. If the TT was jacked, you have a few other issues. These are also internally balanced engines. It truly is a pulley more than a balancer and shouldnt get thrown off by the TT. Sounds like they are blowing smoke up your *** by trying to blame other parts and not bad workmanship.
#19
Safety Car
balancer only on the invoice means no new bolt.if it cost them a penny it will be on the invoice so that they get paid for it.all dealers write itemized invoices so there will be no arguments and they will be paid for every single item and all work performed.if it doesn't say alignment on invoice they didn't do an alignment
Last edited by irok; 03-26-2018 at 04:07 PM.
#20
I wont comment on if you have a case or not. Wont go there.
What I will say is find a reputable shop in your area who works on Vettes. Get it done right. Extended Warranties are nice and all, but to my experience (and a few others on here), it is still work being done by a dealer...and that doesnt mean that it is good work. It just means they hired someone who can read a manual and follow instructions. But I digress. Either do it yourself and get a good Vette shop.
Torque tube out of balance? That shouldnt fly. If the TT was jacked, you have a few other issues. These are also internally balanced engines. It truly is a pulley more than a balancer and shouldnt get thrown off by the TT. Sounds like they are blowing smoke up your *** by trying to blame other parts and not bad workmanship.
What I will say is find a reputable shop in your area who works on Vettes. Get it done right. Extended Warranties are nice and all, but to my experience (and a few others on here), it is still work being done by a dealer...and that doesnt mean that it is good work. It just means they hired someone who can read a manual and follow instructions. But I digress. Either do it yourself and get a good Vette shop.
Torque tube out of balance? That shouldnt fly. If the TT was jacked, you have a few other issues. These are also internally balanced engines. It truly is a pulley more than a balancer and shouldnt get thrown off by the TT. Sounds like they are blowing smoke up your *** by trying to blame other parts and not bad workmanship.
id NEVER go to a dealer unless it was something dumb, which at first was the high pressure hose needing replaced and I didn’t have the tools to do it. Extremely regretting not getting an ATI balancer upgrade and having a performance shop do it.