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I've always brought my cars in for hand washes every few weeks, but with my C7, I'm not sure I trust my local car washes.
What products do you use?
Foam Gun or a bucket?
Adam's Car Shampoo? Lusso?
Adam's Tire Cleaner?
Wax, or a ceramic product (Ceramic Pro Sport)?
Tell me your secrets on keeping your car beautiful!
If you want to keep your car looking awesome, you can't take it to car washes and/or let other people wash your car, unless you're paying a true pro. Besides, it's not that hard to wash it yourself, and you'll be glad you did when the sun is shining off of it and you don't see swirl marks and scratches all over it.
The most important part of a wash is rinsing the car off thoroughly first. If you start washing it with a sponge or even a high pressure wash, and you have dirt on the surface of your paint, you're basically sanding your car and you're going to scratch the hell out of it. A good thorough rinse will remove most of the abrasive dirt and at least soften that which won't rinse off.
Do not wash and/or dry your car in full sunlight, do it in the shade or keep the car wet and then get it in a garage to dry it off. Water spots suck and can be really tough to remove. Shade is your friend. Keep the car wet everywhere until you are ready to dry it.
Use a leaf blower or air compressor to blow off the majority of water off your car and out of the nooks and crannies that will spray water spots all over your freshly washed car if you don't. If you are drying your car with a microfiber towel or any similar tool, keep checking the towels surface to make sure nothing is stuck to it that might scratch the paint while you are drying.
Most car soaps are fine, so use whatever works best for you, but use as little as necessary depending on how dirty your car is of course. A ceramic coating is basically just a long lasting wax job - if you're not going to wax your car very often, it's probably something you should consider, if you plan on waxing your baby a lot, then it's probably not necessary. I baby my cars so I just wax them a lot, and in between waxes I use spray on wax that adds a nice shine and some added protection.
No matter what you do, you're going to get chips in your paint, I found a touch up solution called dr. color chip that is really easy to apply and gives you the best non-pro touchup you can get in my opinion.
And once more, if you want to keep your car looking its best, don't trust it to someone else (unless its a high paid professional) because a lot of these washers (like dealership 'detailers') are low paid, low skilled workers who don't care about your car all that much, and if you think cleaning the car yourself is tough, I can assure you it's tougher fixing some of the damage that can result from poor cleanings by said 'detailers'.
EVERY WASH:
303 Leather and Vinyl Protectant
2-bucket method with grit guards
Meguiars microfiber wash mit
Meguiars Ultimate Wash and Wax
Stoners Invisible Glass
Meguiars Endurance Tire Gel
If you want to keep your car looking awesome, you can't take it to car washes and/or let other people wash your car, unless you're paying a true pro. Besides, it's not that hard to wash it yourself, and you'll be glad you did when the sun is shining off of it and you don't see swirl marks and scratches all over it.
The most important part of a wash is rinsing the car off thoroughly first. If you start washing it with a sponge or even a high pressure wash, and you have dirt on the surface of your paint, you're basically sanding your car and you're going to scratch the hell out of it. A good thorough rinse will remove most of the abrasive dirt and at least soften that which won't rinse off.
Do not wash and/or dry your car in full sunlight, do it in the shade or keep the car wet and then get it in a garage to dry it off. Water spots suck and can be really tough to remove. Shade is your friend. Keep the car wet everywhere until you are ready to dry it.
Use a leaf blower or air compressor to blow off the majority of water off your car and out of the nooks and crannies that will spray water spots all over your freshly washed car if you don't. If you are drying your car with a microfiber towel or any similar tool, keep checking the towels surface to make sure nothing is stuck to it that might scratch the paint while you are drying.
Most car soaps are fine, so use whatever works best for you, but use as little as necessary depending on how dirty your car is of course. A ceramic coating is basically just a long lasting wax job - if you're not going to wax your car very often, it's probably something you should consider, if you plan on waxing your baby a lot, then it's probably not necessary. I baby my cars so I just wax them a lot, and in between waxes I use spray on wax that adds a nice shine and some added protection.
No matter what you do, you're going to get chips in your paint, I found a touch up solution called dr. color chip that is really easy to apply and gives you the best non-pro touchup you can get in my opinion.
And once more, if you want to keep your car looking its best, don't trust it to someone else (unless its a high paid professional) because a lot of these washers (like dealership 'detailers') are low paid, low skilled workers who don't care about your car all that much, and if you think cleaning the car yourself is tough, I can assure you it's tougher fixing some of the damage that can result from poor cleanings by said 'detailers'.
To wash
Two buckets - one with Griot's soap and one with clear water to rinse
Griots microfiber wash mitt
Griots regular-strength wheel cleaner and small sheepskin mitt for wheels
Griots interior cleaner
Griots quick detailer and quick wash for in between washes
Mother's Revision glass cleaner
Various Griots microfiber towels for drying, glass, interior
Griots rubber cleaner, occasionally, used with a brush
Simichrome with disposable microfiber towel for stainless exhaust tips
To protect
Griots long-lasting tire dressing and their applicator
Zaino Z-2 Pro and Z-8 detail spray (used after every wash)
Rain-x
Gummi-Phlege for all rubber seals
To correct (usually once per year)
Griots Boss fast correcting cream
Griots Orbital polisher
Griots clay
3M Imperial Hand Glaze and a soft cotton towel if I see minor surface scratches and scuffs
Using these products the car looks great with very little work. I usually detail it every other week, keep it in the garage, and drive it to work 2-3x per week and on the weekends. One of the keys to keeping a car looking good is to never use contaminated towels (even little pieces of leaves will scratch) or towels with tags or nylon stitching/threads, and never to rub hard. Be gentle. I also think the Zaino Z-2 and Z-8 probably shine better than ceramic (several detailers agree) and is easy to correct, though obviously it doesn't last several years without reapplication, as ceramic does.
Last edited by red62vette; 04-18-2018 at 11:14 PM.
To wash
Two buckets - one with Griot's soap and one with clear water to rinse
Griots microfiber wash mitt
Griots regular-strength wheel cleaner and small sheepskin mitt for wheels
Griots interior cleaner
Griots quick detailer and quick wash for in between washes
Mother's Revision glass cleaner
Various Griots microfiber towels for drying, glass, interior
Griots rubber cleaner, occasionally, used with a brush
Simichrome with disposable microfiber towel for stainless exhaust tips
To protect
Griots long-lasting tire dressing and their applicator
Zaino Z-2 Pro and Z-8 detail spray (used after every wash)
Rain-x
Gummi-Phlege for all rubber seals
To correct (usually once per year)
Griots Boss fast correcting cream
Griots Orbital polisher
Griots clay
3M Imperial Hand Glaze and a soft cotton towel if I see minor surface scratches and scuffs
Using these products the car looks great with very little work. I usually detail it every other week, keep it in the garage, and drive it to work 2-3x per week and on the weekends. One of the keys to keeping a car looking good is to never use contaminated towels (even little pieces of leaves will scratch) or towels with tags or nylon stitching/threads, and never to rub hard. Be gentle. I also think the Zaino Z-2 and Z-8 probably shine better than ceramic (several detailers agree) and is easy to correct, though obviously it doesn't last several years without reapplication, as ceramic does.
I was just reading about the Zaino product line... it seems very complicated. Need to use some ZFX flash the first time you use the Z2? And then they say you need to use other products as well?
After you wash the car, are you just using Zaino Z-2 Pro and Z-8 detail spray as a wax replacement and then a quick-shine detailer?
I was just reading about the Zaino product line... it seems very complicated. Need to use some ZFX flash the first time you use the Z2? And then they say you need to use other products as well?
After you wash the car, are you just using Zaino Z-2 Pro and Z-8 detail spray as a wax replacement and then a quick-shine detailer?
Not complicated at all. Wash the car, clay it if you want (using Griots quick detailer), apply the Z-2, let it dry an hour, and then it comes off easily. Much easier than wax. I never use ZFX flash and it works and lasts great without it. I use Z-8 after I wash the car for shine and protection. Just a super light mist and wipe it off. Takes 5m for the car. Z-2 one time per year and Z-8 every wash or every other and you're good.
after applying ivory dishwashing soap, a soft towel, and soft water; cleaning one's car expands depending upon how much money and time you have or wish to throw at it. If I ever see a KBB trade-in category, "only cleaned with brand-x supplies" with more bucks for my trade-in for checking that box, I'll sit up and take more notice.
that said, I use the lazy man's products.
1. Any of the wash/wax included half-gallon jugs on sale at Advance/Autozone
2. Any of the tire/wheel cleaners on sale at Advance/Autozone
3. Any of the tire shines on sale at Advance/Autozone
4. The lazy man's wax Meguiars UFF - an extravagance, but no dry-time, only buff it on or spray-on wax, one less step for me!
5. RaggTopp for the vert top.
6. Interior: microfiber and water is the chevy recommendation. Some of these snake oils can and will deteriorate the man-made "leather" that most vette seats are made of.
armour all no gloss for the dash and trim parts. Sprayway glass cleaner, old as the hills, still using 50's style advertising on its cans, usually cheapest at target. I trust it from it's no damage to the most fragile models paints, where i use it to clean off dust from display.
Wayne Corrini advertised on one of his shows episodes: Pinnacle Crystal Mist carnuba wax Detail Spray. Especially for black or red he says. Since he demo'ed applying it right before the car rolled up the auction ramp, and his goal is to make money on old metal, I took notice. Not cheap, but I have a red car.
Last edited by SilverGhost; 04-19-2018 at 04:43 AM.
I'm not a fan of the 2 bucket method, nor of grit guards. I use a method requiring lots of microfiber towels and only one bucket, filled with my fav car wash. I bought a 10 pack of microfiber towels a few years ago and I use 1 fresh clean towel for each panel I wash. Once that section of the car is washed I'll toss the towel aside to be washed later and get another fresh clean one for the next section. I never dip a used towel into the soap. The soap is always clean. Also, frequent replacement of the towels helps insure a contaminate, grit or tar or whatever, isn't trapped and getting drug all over the car. I ditched wash mitts for that reason. I also use a generous amount of car wash soap. The reason is based on the clay bar/clay mitt method of using lots of soap or other lubricating compound to prevent scratching. Its the same when washing. Lots of lube helps prevent scratches.
This method does require washing all those microfiber towels. I do that in the washing machine with no softeners or dryer sheets.
Some may see this as too much work but the result is worth the effort.
I highly recommend Meguiars, but car care products are an oddly personal choice. More so than Chevy vs Ford. Everyone has a favorite they would swear by.
I’ve used Meguiars for 3 generations of Corvettes. From soaps to wax to quick Detailers. You can get there stuff at most Pep Boys or Autozone.
Not complicated at all. Wash the car, clay it if you want (using Griots quick detailer), apply the Z-2, let it dry an hour, and then it comes off easily. Much easier than wax. I never use ZFX flash and it works and lasts great without it. I use Z-8 after I wash the car for shine and protection. Just a super light mist and wipe it off. Takes 5m for the car. Z-2 one time per year and Z-8 every wash or every other and you're good.
When I was working, one of my Product/Business Managers parked his C6 next to mine and his always looked better! (We had our own parking places by default, at the far end of a ~800 car lot! ) He used Zaino but several coats that require mixing the Z-2 with accelerator and throwing what was not used away. Too much work for me.
When I bought my C7 was no longer working full time and saw a simpler method that I used on it and now my Grand Sport. Emailed Sal at Zaino and he said it was a good method.
I use Z-2 on my white Grand Sport, right out of the bottle. The secret to using Zaino that is hard to overemphasize-is you MUST use very little! With Z-2 for example, if applied heavily, it will be hard to get off! A bottle will last several years.
I follow the Z-2 directly with Zaino CS (Clear Seal.) According to Sal, that sets the Z-2 so no need for accelerator. CS can be used by itself, which is what I do on side skirts, splitter, wheels and lower rear bumper. I love CS as it is apply and let dry! No rubbing, no removal. Takes less that 5 minutes to do the whole car. Again use sparingly. if you are not looking for max shine just use it by itself.
I use Zaino. I've tried just about every product and have been paint correcting for over 20 years on various cars (different clearcoat strengths). For the vette, it's Zaino. If you stick to using the well proven process of 1. wax strip (w/dawn dish soap) wash, 2. clay bar, 3. wash (again), 4. cut (either diminishing compound or polish), 5. polish, 6. wax / seal.... you can't go wrong ... WITH THE RIGHT PRODUCT(s) and towels/applicators. The great thing about Zaino products is it's a one-stop shop.
04-18-2018, 09:47 PM
What products do you use to clean your C7?
When I was working, one of my Product/Business Managers parked his C6 next to mine and his always looked better! (We had our own parking places by default, at the far end of a ~800 car lot! 
) He used Zaino but several coats that require mixing the Z-2 with accelerator and throwing what was not used away. Too much work for me.
