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Hello, first of all sorry for all the noob questions. I have a 19 Z06 on order and the following parts on order. IW 18% overdrive crank, Halltech, Borla off-road X pipe, 160 stat, Fastproms heat exchanger tank.
I am also looking into colder plugs-are the Brisk RR14S any better than the NGK LTR7IX-11.
If a copper plug was made I would honestly be using that then the above-nothing like reading plugs to know what your tune up is like.
I don’t think you’ll need to use the brisk, but set your gap around .028 on the ngk and your good to over 850rw. The brisk is used on much higher builds and seem to get the job done when the ngk can’t. I myself have used the brisk on high compression/heavy nitrous engines spinning 7400rpm, the brisk kept the chamber lit on the top end when the ngk would not (slight mis-fires). At you levels, I think the ngk are fine and that’s the plug in my car now, 769/791 at the tire.
I don’t think you’ll need to use the brisk, but set your gap around .028 on the ngk and your good to over 850rw. The brisk is used on much higher builds and seem to get the job done when the ngk can’t. I myself have used the brisk on high compression/heavy nitrous engines spinning 7400rpm, the brisk kept the chamber lit on the top end when the ngk would not (slight mis-fires). At you levels, I think the ngk are fine and that’s the plug in my car now, 769/791 at the tire.
Callaway 757 a8, ported 2.3 blower with 103mm tbody, 10-rib 9.5 lower/2.625 lower, hand ported heads, my spec cam (22x/24x 116+5), MMS wild catch can, 1-7/8 ARH LT cattless with stock mufflers, 93 octane with a sneeze of meth.
Happening this month:
2.41 axle being swapped for my 4-pinion 2.73 along with RPM stub shafts and DSS axles, and Carlyle 15” drag spindle conversion, 15” weld single beadlocks and M/T stickies. I make 740ftlbs at 2400rpm, 1.32 or better 60fts are coming. I have been 10.20 at 142 on a 19” nitto nto5 with 5k street miles on those tires. That was a fun experience
Callaway 757 a8, ported 2.3 blower with 103mm tbody, 10-rib 9.5 lower/2.625 lower, hand ported heads, my spec cam (22x/24x 116+5), MMS wild catch can, 1-7/8 ARH LT cattless with stock mufflers, 93 octane with a sneeze of meth.
Happening this month:
2.41 axle being swapped for my 4-pinion 2.73 along with RPM stub shafts and DSS axles, and Carlyle 15” drag spindle conversion, 15” weld single beadlocks and M/T stickies. I make 740ftlbs at 2400rpm, 1.32 or better 60fts are coming. I have been 10.20 at 142 on a 19” nitto nto5 with 5k street miles on those tires. That was a fun experience
John
AWESOME!!!!! tell me more about the 4 pinion 2.73? Any issues shifting with that gear? I'm dreading sending in the TCM to get unlocked. Do you think its worth porting the blower or just throw on a 2300 Heartbeat?
2.73 not in the car yet, it’s on my bench. I have a thread on it in the c7 tech section. I would do the 2.3 all day long over the 1.7, but that 2.650 Eaton that’s on the ZR1 will be available soon, so there’s that
Hello, first of all sorry for all the noob questions. I have a 19 Z06 on order and the following parts on order. IW 18% overdrive crank, Halltech, Borla off-road X pipe, 160 stat, Fastproms heat exchanger tank.
I am also looking into colder plugs-are the Brisk RR14S any better than the NGK LTR7IX-11.
If a copper plug was made I would honestly be using that then the above-nothing like reading plugs to know what your tune up is like.
Thanks!
I would say with those mods the stock issue A/c plugs would be fine! The worry is if you can get t tuned. 2019? Not sure if is locked like the ZR1.
I would wait and find out before I bought the pulley.
I had tested the Brisk 12 and 14 in my 800HP vehicle
I have everything expanded again, I had only problems
Am currently testing again with original on, car runs perfect again
I had tested the Brisk 12 and 14 in my 800HP vehicle
I have everything expanded again, I had only problems
Am currently testing again with original on, car runs perfect again
I had tested the Brisk 12 and 14 in my 800HP vehicle
I have everything expanded again, I had only problems
Am currently testing again with original on, car runs perfect again
Bringing this one back from the dead. I just installed the NGK's on mine, 2300 with supporting mods (16 psi, 1.6 g/cyl). I've seen the recommended gap mentioned anywhere from .028-.038, I gapped mine at .032. Now I'm having a bit of an intermittent misfire at idle and light throttle, haven't done moderate or WOT with them yet. I'm logging misfire on every cylinder so I'm thinking it's got to be a gap issue. I'd like to avoid correcting in the wrong direction and having to go back in there twice, it's quite the pain in the *** as I'm sure you guys are all aware. Which direction should I try first? Any other suggestions?
I can't see swapping plug wires around doing much for trouble shooting with it being on every cylinder. Are you suggesting swapping them all with something like the MSD 33823 wires?
I think I'll pull two plugs and regap them to .028 and .038 and see which one it goes away on before I dive into all 8.
How are your O2 voltage readings? do they fluctuate along with the misfire?
Last year I had a WOT misfire issue on cylinder 7 (misfire count=16). O2 voltage reading on that bank was erratic as you can see below. Light throttle showed no misfire!
Found that my NGK LTR7IX-11plug on cylinder 7 was broken. Switched to Brisk RR12S & never had a problem since then. Both plugs were gapped at 0.028
Last edited by Corvette4ever; 08-04-2019 at 04:14 AM.
04-19-2018, 09:30 AM
Brisk RR14S vs NGK LTR7IX-11
Stock A/C for me too with my 2300! Nice plug! 
