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New member, long time lurker. Today I have been offered a "barn find" that belongs to a friend that has owned the car since the early 70's. It is a 1966 roadster and he was always going to "fix it up some day" The car has been parked for about 25 years. I went by and looked at it just because it had been so long since I had seen it, I wanted to update my mental imagery. It is a big block (NOM) with a 396 out of a Chevelle, 4 speed, one repaint that needs to be redone. Car has correct hood, 427 emblems, and appears to be a no hit car. Original blue car with white interior. Needs a total restoration, paint, interior, but appears to be mostly all there. He said it was running when parked. Shows approx 50K miles and could be correct as there is little wear on the pedal pads. About the only option it has a hardtop with it. I plan on going back to get it up and inspect frame and birdcage. I have searched forum and seen lots of information about how to do this but suggestions are welcome, it is a dry western car but I just want to make sure. Now for a few questions:
I thought BBC cars all had close ratio 4 speeds and posi as part of the BB option. Is this correct and the rock crusher was an additional upcharge?
Is there any way to tell a rock crusher other than the input shaft rings on splines, as trans is installed in car?
If the buyer ordered the big block, did it include a suspension upgrade in the package or was that additional?
Is there any other way to confirm it is an original big block car other than the build sheet?
Is there any way to tell if it had a 390hp or 425hp engine?
I know value is very subjective but considering the cost of restorations, what is a ball park value of the car? (don't want to offend him) I looked at Old Car Report price guide but their values seemed kinda low. I looked at Haggarty value guide but they don't really address project cars. Auction prices are all over the board.
I can do most of the mechanical work myself but would have to farm out the paint and interior work. Assuming the frame is good, and birdcage is good, I am not worried about the missing NOM but I know it subtracts from the value. Just looking for some advice on price and any other things you might be looking for if you were going to buy it.
Thanks for all your help.
A couple of the members have asked me about my progress and I apologize for the long lag time, but I had some family issues that got in the way of my projects, but am getting back on track now. I had to put Ol Blue on the back burner for a bit but got back to her in the late summer this year. Couple of big hiccups that came up involved the front suspension and overheating.
So I got involved in rebuilding the front suspension, and thought, I can get tube a frames with new ball joints and bushings for just a bit more cost than rebuilding the stock ones and get some extra caster besides. WRONG I got some (in another thread) from an on line vendor and after putting them on, 1, the car sat up like a 4 wheel drive P/U, 2 there were NO steering stops so the tires hit the fenders and frame, AND not enough room to get the camber needed because of not enough room for shims to get to 0. Talked with vendor several time and finally gave up I put in offset cross shafts (which got me close but not to 0 on camber) built my own steering stops, and cut one full coil off of the front springs. I finally got it to sit where I liked the stance but still want 0 camber, so I will probably go to Global West in the future, (which is what I should have done in the first place)
Then on to the overheating. I had an aftermarket aluminum radiator and electric fans in the car. (big block with iron heads) and going driving it was ok as long as you kept air moving through it. At each stop light it would creep up a little higher, and never go back down. Soon I was in the red and peeing out of the over flow tube. AND stop and go traffic, well forget it. So I took out the aftermarket aluminum radiator and the electric fans and put in a 7 blade GM Corvette fan, new fan clutch and a Dewitt radiator. Took the temp down about 15 degrees. Still working with it, but it is a lot better. Another question about that, but for another thread.
Took her out to the Golden Super Cruise last weekend (last one of the summer) and car was a bit hit. Seems people like patina on C2, maybe because they don't see many that are not fully restored. Lots of smiles
Currently I am still working on the e brake (cable froze up) w/wipers (appear to be siezed up) and the headlights, which take about 1/2 a day to open. Also need a new headlight switch. Did I mention letting a car sit for 20 years is a really bad idea.
A couple of pictures from today, sorry about the star bursts, I guess the lens was dirty or something. Special effects?
Thanks for all the encouragement from those following the thread, I will try to be more timely in the future.
St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-'18-‘19-'20-'21-'22-'23-'24
Congrats on the 'find" - they ARE still out there!
There are SO many variables, but if you can take pics and post them here, it will help answer some of your questions and will help point you toward an approximate value.
With a nom car and everything it needs, it sounds like a 40k car to me at best. Look at the tach red line. A 425 will be at 6500 and the 390 at 5500. A 425 will have an 80 lb oil gauge. A 425 will have transitor ignition. Big blocks will have a rear sway bar and bolted end caps on the half shafts. The tranny was an option but I doubt if it has a rock crusher. There were only 15 production cars in 66 with a rock crusher. The rock crusher had a drain plug in the bottom. Pictures would help a lot. Good luck.
With a nom car and everything it needs, it sounds like a 40k car to me at best. Look at the tach red line. A 425 will be at 6500 and the 390 at 5500. A 425 will have an 80 lb oil gauge. A 425 will have transitor ignition. Big blocks will have a rear sway bar and bolted end caps on the half shafts. The tranny was an option but I doubt if it has a rock crusher. There were only 15 production cars in 66 with a rock crusher. The rock crusher had a drain plug in the bottom. Pictures would help a lot. Good luck.
Thanks, great information. I will look when I go back next time. And get some pics.
Congrats on the 'find" - they ARE still out there!
There are SO many variables, but if you can take pics and post them here, it will help answer some of your questions and will help point you toward an approximate value.
Your barn find needs a lot, and looks like a tar baby.... in the sense that once you start, you will probably end up... new paint, new interior, new wiring, new top, new rubber, new wiring, new chrome
Your barn find needs a lot, and looks like a tar baby.... in the sense that once you start, you will probably end up... new paint, new interior, new wiring, new top, new rubber, new wiring, new.....
It will be a money pit if you restore it. If you pay 30k for the car and are able to sink a few more dollars into the mechanical/electrical so it's safe to drive, but leave the cosmetics alone, you might be OK. Depends on how crunchy the seats and wiring are, and how bad the mechanicals are. What is your final goal with one of these cars? A restored masterpiece, a clean driver, or a grungy driver? Only the last one is economically feasible.
It could be a money pit, but maybe not. If the bird cage and frame are good, proceed. I think the cosmetics will turn out well with plenty of elbow grease simply because they are not worn out. Give the paint a professional buffing. You might be surprised at the results. The mechanicals will depend on your ability to do them. There is plenty of info here on the CF about how to revive a sitting engine. Getting in under $35k should make it a reasonable project, one that you could drive and get some smiles. Just my .10 worth. Dennis
St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-'18-‘19-'20-'21-'22-'23-'24
Originally Posted by GTOguy
It will be a money pit if you restore it. If you pay 30k for the car and are able to sink a few more dollars into the mechanical/electrical so it's safe to drive, but leave the cosmetics alone, you might be OK. Depends on how crunchy the seats and wiring are, and how bad the mechanicals are. What is your final goal with one of these cars? A restored masterpiece, a clean driver, or a grungy driver? Only the last one is economically feasible.
I think you are smart to sort out all your options. It is always best to buy a restored car and have the other guy take the hit on his resell. However there have been a lot of pretty pigs with lipstick that offer hidden treasures. So get as many eyes on it as possible even if buying a supposed nice car. Not everyone can come up with 50k or 40k, but if I wanted to get in the game it looks like a nice car to start if the price is right. Make a budget and add 15-20% and the numbers will be more accurate. Good Luck.
If it's an original M-22, it's worth about $500k. My '66 with rebuilt '69 427 and M-22 rock crusher (not original to the car) totally restored, looks like showroom top and bottom was bought for $55k and I sometimes think that was toomuch. If you go forward, it might look like this.
Last edited by Jeffthunbird; 05-02-2018 at 10:11 PM.
Reason: Add pic
04-20-2018, 11:49 PM
C2 Barn Find
Talked with vendor several time and finally gave up 
I put in offset cross shafts (which got me close but not to 0 on camber) built my own steering stops, and cut one full coil off of the front springs. I finally got it to sit where I liked the stance but still want 0 camber, so I will probably go to Global West in the future, (which is what I should have done in the first place) 
It will be a money pit.
Dennis
