Novusuhu

Hey everyone.

Next week I will visit some guy that sells an edelbrock performer 2101 intake.
He says it is almost new, and on the photo's it also looks that way.
Gaskets and screws are also included with the original box and packaging.

What are important things to check on a 'used' performer 2101 intake?

HeadsU.P.

There are dozens on EBay anyway, thats for sure. Its not likely the used one is warped but check all the bolt holes and water hose fitting bosses for hairline cracks. Because they are NPT, its possible to crack a boss from over-tighting a plug or fitting.

Some used ones on EBay come with carb studs, dizzy clamp, all bolts, heater hose fittings and Vac port hardware. Thats all a plus.

Main thing is its not stained with grease / oil / gas on the porous surface.

PAmotorman

to get equal fuel distribution you will need a hot oil shield because 4 of the intake runners are exposed to the hot oil and 4 are not.

HeadsU.P.

Thats clever, but I would think that plate would retain the heat instead of repel.
(Like a little toaster oven)

F4Gary

How much are really saving over a brand new one?
Not worth it.

HeadsU.P.

New, Summit $180
Used, EBay $60-80

PAmotorman

you better tell the engineers at chevy that you don't need a hot oil shield under intakes. https://www.jegs.com/i/Chevrolet-Per...55320/10002/-1

HeadsU.P.

I will tell the Edelbrock engineers too.

But thats what the Air Gap is all about.

keithl1967

One thing that drives me crazy on used intakes is when someone paints them to "clean" them up, they often just spray the whole thing (without masking), paint in the plenums, water housing, etc, because they fail to mask them off.

Not to mention, paint on every mating/gasket surface, which is begging for trouble. If you see painted mating surfaces, run away, LOL!

derekderek

Also check the water passage for rot. They get put on boats and run with raw river water, or worse yet, salt water.

PAmotorman

if the air gap is the answer to the problem why do you say you don't need a hot oil shield under a 2101 ??

HeadsU.P.

Thats two different designs, really. One keeps the hot oil away from the manifold. The other design elevates the carb away from the hot manifold.

Like I said, I like the concept of the steel pan, but I question if that pan just traps heat inside there like a hot chamber with no air circulation.

The Air Gap gets plenty of air circulation. Hence the name AIR----

PAmotorman

they both do the same thing keeps the fuel charge cooler. the temp of the air to the carb is what is under the hood unless the carb is sealed off from the under hood temp thru a cold air induction system. without the oil shield the runners of the 2101 see oil temp which is 20 to 40 degrees hotter than the under hood temp. you pick up 1% increase in HP for every 10 degrees you lower the intake charge temp

F4Gary

The LT-1 manifold has a sheet metal shield on the bottom similar to that bolt on one.

stingr69

I like the snap in oil shield that fits down by the lifters. Metal spring ends tuck under the heads to retain it. Keeps lifters down in the bores if you loose a rocker arm or pushrod. Keeps oil splash off the intake gasket seal too. Small vacuum leak there can be a real pain.

derekderek

Is there a small block version? I have only seen them on big blocks.

stingr69

Moroso 25050 is what I used. Other makes are out there. "lifter valley oil baffle" At about $40 is overpriced but it is a good piece.

Novusuhu

What are the 'MOROSO 25025 SBC ALUMINUM LIFTER VALLEY VENTS' used for?

Is it a 'must have' part?

stingr69

The bottom of factory intakes have a oil spash shield installed to prevent oil from coking up on the bottom surface where the exhaust gas crosses over on a factory intake. If you do not have a functioning exhaust passage in your intake this is less of an issue. You would want some form of shield if you have exhaust heat going through the intake manifold. Otherwise it is not really "required".

You still may benefit from adding the aftermarket shield in the bottom of the valley because it keeps all of oil splash out of the area and it holds lifters in place in the event of a valve train part failure. I installed a crate engine many years ago that was fouling plugs a bit. I found a leaky intake gasket was sucking in oil. I used the baffle because I hate oil getting past the intake gasket as it can allow excess oil consumption after an intake swap. Not as uncommon as you might believe.

Novusuhu

Ok, I bought the performer 2101 intake. It was really new!
I also got a set of goskets (also edelbrock), water neck + bolts, and 12 SS bolts.

The only things I still need now is 4 studs (SS) and a good gasket for the carbu.

Are there other parts that I will need?