Help Loud clunk noise On clutch release
04-22-2018, 11:18 PM
#2
Does it only do it when you push in the clutch, put the car in gear, then put it in neutral, then release the clutch? Or does it does it also do it when you push in the clutch and release the clutch without rowing into then out of a gear?
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02bluevette (01-15-2021)
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h8snow (01-15-2021)
04-23-2018, 12:02 PM
#4
Instructor
Thread Starter
both times I believe it will occurs. But it’s random wheb it happens; it’s almost like the clutch plate is getting stuck then thunking into place.’ I don’t feel anything inside the car however. Just the noise.
04-23-2018, 12:03 PM
#5
Instructor
Thread Starter
04-23-2018, 12:19 PM
#6
Mine clunks when I let in the clutch not when I throw it out, and only in neutral, only if I let it in quickly. Sounds/feels like a linkage issue but it only happens with the engine running so probably not the linkage. Been that way since I got it (24K miles, now 29K), hasn't worsened, so I haven't been in a rush to delve into it.
04-23-2018, 04:10 PM
#7
Race Director
Lots of smiles too, I'd guess.
How's it been driven? Normal usage, routinely flogged?
165K is a lot of miles, wornout & tired? Might need replacement.
Any slippage, usually first sign of a worn clutch.
Many C6's experienced clutch pedal going to floor, not returning.
Happened due to poor MC design and after enough bitching Chev would replace bad MC w/ new version.
Was NOT a total 'recall', a soft type whereby only IF a customer complained re soft/sticking clutch would new units be installed --on GM's dime.
Covered vehicles 10 y/o or less w/ <125K, an '05 probably doesn't qualify based on MY anymore.
Good news is if there's been no clutch issues it doesn't matter, and if you did new MC's are a relatively easy inexpensive fix.
How's it been driven? Normal usage, routinely flogged?
165K is a lot of miles, wornout & tired? Might need replacement.
Any slippage, usually first sign of a worn clutch.
And I’m not sure if it’s ever had the master cylinder recall done. I was actually unaware there was one.
Happened due to poor MC design and after enough bitching Chev would replace bad MC w/ new version.
Was NOT a total 'recall', a soft type whereby only IF a customer complained re soft/sticking clutch would new units be installed --on GM's dime.
Covered vehicles 10 y/o or less w/ <125K, an '05 probably doesn't qualify based on MY anymore.
Good news is if there's been no clutch issues it doesn't matter, and if you did new MC's are a relatively easy inexpensive fix.
04-23-2018, 10:56 PM
#8
Instructor
Thread Starter
Hey guys thanks too everyone for replying; I have a video of the sound. The clutch never slips so I don’t feel like it’s the clutch itself. I’m in the process of trying to get the entire system bled because the fluid is excessively old and worn out looking. I’ve been doing the ranger method but it gets dark again pretty quickly. So Im thinking I need the entire system flushed. I’ll add a link too the video of the sound here in a moment. @landru @ben z @airmed2
link too video. If you can’t find it my username on YouTube is dontcareboutname1
link too video. If you can’t find it my username on YouTube is dontcareboutname1
Last edited by Garra671; 04-23-2018 at 10:59 PM.
04-24-2018, 09:10 AM
#9
Race Director
OK.
Said its always done this?
Plausible whateveritis finally crapped out, like a TO bearing going from bad to worse. I'm stumped.
Barring some kind of adjustment gone awry, may require going into tranny/clutch to find source. Hate saying it, drop rear = labor $.
Unless you're willing/able to drive it 'til total failure, not many choices.
Some members often flushed many times w/ RM before clean. Problem is, IIRC, seals used w/ old MC/SC units are what failed, allowing/generating dirt back into fresh fluid. Meaning it won't take long before fluid's 'dirty', again.
G/L, post results of fluid flush.
The clunk I'd heard at start-up wasn't enough to make an informed guess.
Try recording and/or taking it to a wrench & as usual it won't do it.
Said its always done this?
Plausible whateveritis finally crapped out, like a TO bearing going from bad to worse. I'm stumped.
Barring some kind of adjustment gone awry, may require going into tranny/clutch to find source. Hate saying it, drop rear = labor $.
Unless you're willing/able to drive it 'til total failure, not many choices.
I’m in the process of trying to get the entire system bled because the fluid is excessively old and worn out looking. I’ve been doing the ranger method but it gets dark again pretty quickly. So Im thinking I need the entire system flushed.
G/L, post results of fluid flush.
The clunk I'd heard at start-up wasn't enough to make an informed guess.
Try recording and/or taking it to a wrench & as usual it won't do it.
04-24-2018, 09:20 AM
#10
Team Owner
Member Since: Apr 2008
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OK.
Said its always done this?
Plausible whateveritis finally crapped out, like a TO bearing going from bad to worse. I'm stumped.
Barring some kind of adjustment gone awry, may require going into tranny/clutch to find source. Hate saying it, drop rear = labor $.
Unless you're willing/able to drive it 'til total failure, not many choices.
Some members often flushed many times w/ RM before clean. Problem is, IIRC, seals used w/ old MC/SC units are what failed, allowing/generating dirt back into fresh fluid. Meaning it won't take long before fluid's 'dirty', again.
G/L, post results of fluid flush.
The clunk I'd heard at start-up wasn't enough to make an informed guess.
Try recording and/or taking it to a wrench & as usual it won't do it.
Said its always done this?
Plausible whateveritis finally crapped out, like a TO bearing going from bad to worse. I'm stumped.
Barring some kind of adjustment gone awry, may require going into tranny/clutch to find source. Hate saying it, drop rear = labor $.
Unless you're willing/able to drive it 'til total failure, not many choices.
Some members often flushed many times w/ RM before clean. Problem is, IIRC, seals used w/ old MC/SC units are what failed, allowing/generating dirt back into fresh fluid. Meaning it won't take long before fluid's 'dirty', again.
G/L, post results of fluid flush.
The clunk I'd heard at start-up wasn't enough to make an informed guess.
Try recording and/or taking it to a wrench & as usual it won't do it.
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Landru (04-24-2018)
04-24-2018, 09:34 AM
#11
Race Director
04-24-2018, 08:09 PM
#12
Instructor
Thread Starter
I know this will be a bit off topic. But I may be getting ready too sell the car as is. What do you guys think I could get for it? The 2nd gear synchro May be going out as well; it grinds into 2nd at anything over 5500rpm.
I currently have a guy that has been low balling me and slowly going up in price. He’s currently at 9k. I’m just wondering if he knows something I don’t here.
04-25-2018, 09:44 AM
#13
Race Director
Subtract repair $ from book value.
Possibly need's new clutch.
Subtract repair $ from book value.
Those 2 items are the cost to make right.
Rear's dropped for both/either, so doing both 'saves' a labor hit.
I currently have a guy that has been low balling me and slowly going up in price. He’s currently at 9k. I’m just wondering if he knows something I don’t here.
Only knows what you've told him. Nothing said = nothing, beyond test drive/inspection.
Assuming clear pink slip, real question's: Bottom line $ you need to sell as-is now, is what?
Get book value, subtract 2 pending repair est costs.
Start there.
04-25-2018, 11:30 AM
#14
Instructor
Thread Starter
Repairing one synch = replacing all, especially at present miles.
Subtract repair $ from book value.
Possibly need's new clutch.
Subtract repair $ from book value.
Those 2 items are the cost to make right.
Rear's dropped for both/either, so doing both 'saves' a labor hit.
How honest are you prepared to be?
Only knows what you've told him. Nothing said = nothing, beyond test drive/inspection.
Assuming clear pink slip, real question's: Bottom line $ you need to sell as-is now, is what?
Get book value, subtract 2 pending repair est costs.
Start there.
Subtract repair $ from book value.
Possibly need's new clutch.
Subtract repair $ from book value.
Those 2 items are the cost to make right.
Rear's dropped for both/either, so doing both 'saves' a labor hit.
How honest are you prepared to be?
Only knows what you've told him. Nothing said = nothing, beyond test drive/inspection.
Assuming clear pink slip, real question's: Bottom line $ you need to sell as-is now, is what?
Get book value, subtract 2 pending repair est costs.
Start there.
he knows about all the issues he was the one that told me about said issues. And is at that offer. So I just want too make sure I’m not getting taken for. I know those 2 repairs will be pricey. But I need to be certain that’s what the problem is. The 2nd gear grinds at 5500+ rpm when trying to be shifted into it. As well the gear feels a little stiff sometimes. But never slips out of any gear.
04-25-2018, 02:32 PM
#15
Race Director
Add 2 repair costs together & subtract from book. NAPA/KBB etc.
IF an optioned '05 w/ high miles wholesales for $14K?
He's deducting $5K & offer then makes sense; especially, if he's the labor.
But I need to be certain that’s what the problem is. The 2nd gear grinds at 5500+ rpm when trying to be shifted into it. As well the gear feels a little stiff sometimes. But never slips out of any gear
Gear grinding in any gear is almost certainly synch(s), though.
Ask me how I know.
Ball's in your court, must get some numbers together. Couple quotes + book wholesale value. Wholesale is what car dealing's based upon.
Only then would one know where they stand, $-wise.
