TJefferson2020

I've got a 2004 Base vert that has the dreaded and all too common glass window falling out issue.

Of course, I've searched the forum and from hell and back and repaired it at least five times using Rhino glue which seems to be the general consensus on the strongest, longest lasting fix.

Here's what my process is:

1. Keep an eye on the window - when it starts to separate I isolate the area - You don't want it to fall out completely because it will break the electronic defroster ****.

Using a razor blade, I lift the top past the parts that are coming unglued. This is to be able to get it clean - lots of dirt builds up in the places where it comes apart.

2. Lots of windex, a razor and lacquer thinner, acetone or toulene to get it absolutely clean.

3. Using 80 grit paper, I roughen the side that bonds to the glass - especially after it's been glued a couple times.

4. I loosen the top and place a mallet between the windshield and the top to relax the cloth - I put a couple towels on the deck to support the glass.

5. A section at a time, I put a light bead of Rhino, then painters tape over the bond - burnishing it tight.

6. I cover it with a towel or moving blanket over the whole thing and then put weight carefully on the edges of the window/top

Let it sit overnight and it holds. For about two years, then about a year, now it seems to only hold for six months.

There has to be a way to get an adhesive that lasts. People have tried all sorts of **** - but Rhino (cyanocrylates) has worked best so far. I'm thinking my problem now is that I've built up some layers of glue and it's impacting adhesion.

I'd like to use this thread to put our heads together and figure out a more durable fix.

Unless there is some other adhesive that would work, here's what I was thinking.

1. clean and prep as above - detach the entire thing and keep the connection safe

2. Carefully sand as much glue off of the top (underside where it meets the glass) as possible. Use rags with acetone to "soak" an area at a time. I can probably soak the cloth top part without too much trouble other than the possibility of the color running... That glue has to come off.

3. Super duper clean it again.

4. Fresh bottle of Rhino - tape, weight and wait.

5. When dry, run a small bead along the joint.


What other adhesives come to mind?

TJefferson2020

I just found this - https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1576977883

So the first time I fixed it was 2011 - seven years ago. Just sort of guessing, I fixed it 2014, 2016, 2017 and now again.

I see loads of threads on this - all saying "Rhino glue" but I don't see anyone posting results after several years - the most I've seen is one year follow ups.

Bottom line - Rhino Glue doesn't last.

bobs77vet

you are persistent....i wonder if landau top adhesive would work?

thats good stuff ....but you have to buy it by the gallon for like $44

wdcraig

I very much appreciate seeing your post. When my back window fell out a couple of months ago, I actually bought the Rhino Glue and was prepared to attempt the fix. However, afterwards, I elected to "bite the bullet" and have the top replaced on my '01. My reasoning mirrored your observations that there were very few follow up posts regarding the durability of the re-glue (and those that did were not overly promising) coupled with my speaking with a trim man who had been in convertible top business for over 30 years. "If the window pops out, that's a sure indication that it is time to replace the top."

Convertibles are really neat; but the reality is, old convertibles will need a new top, sooner or later. I reasoned, the sooner I replaced a worn out top, the longer I will be able to enjoy it (worry free). Not only did I get the top replaced, the shop diagnosed and repaired the source of the leak (caused by a bad passenger side window track). No more wind noise, no more leak, no more worries. Ready for the next 16 years and 100,000 miles!

ztheusa

Rhino glue is junk.................plus it expands when curing........junk.

Use JB Weld, it will NEVER come apart again...........EVER!

TJefferson2020

Looks like another product people say works is 3M Window Weld - you use a special primer to prep the glass. I've ordered new Rhino glue (I use it for all sorts of stuff) and the 3M. I'm going to do the cleaning procedure then try the 3M glue - after 5 attempts with Rhino, I'll try one more time.

This car is worth about $10K (94K miles) I've just put $700 into new A/C manifold, and a complete shock replacement. No new top for me. Not worth it.

Vetteman Jack

Thanks for adding more information to what has been posted before.

And moving this over to C5 Tech.

rrwirsi

I did the Rhino glue fix in Sept 17. Still holding. My chemical engineering neighbor indicated all glues available for public use are affected by heat. My '04 Vert sits outside 24/7 but I put a cover on the top only (California Pop Top) that keeps the interior cool. Since my top looks brand new, I will keep doing the glue thing if it becomes detached again.

dleibman

wonder if 5200 would work.

bobs77vet

intersting you mention that....the landau top adhesive is an oreder only product for professionals but you can get easy enough and its a HHR hig heat release formula. you can brush it on. this is really good stuff

https://www.ebay.com/i/281094382720?chn=ps

TJefferson2020

I've ordered new Rhino and the 3M Window Weld. Plus some specialty clamps. Upon further inspection, it has spread in just a couple days - delaminating almost all the way around.

I've always kept it partially glued to keep it in place and avoid damaging the connections. But this time, I'm going to pull the window entirely. I've already unplugged it (didn't know there were plugs!)

The 3M has a glass primer that goes with it - this is apparently the key to adhesion. I understand it's really messy.

I'll write up the process and take pictures. I won't get the supplies for about a week and a half. Looks like I'll be sporting blue tape!

bobs77vet

i am a huge fan of 3m products....sounds like a good choice please post pictures of your process

TJefferson2020

I will. I think the game changer will be getting that window completely out so I can remove the glue from the top and get the glass absolutely clean.

Plus the clamps. These are made for holding down trim and other stuff that is glued down. Big suction cups with a lever style that press down.

Sam Handwich

What else have you tried to fix with 3M 5200?
I think it is great stuff. I would suggest the 24 hour cure version for this kind of repair.

TJefferson2020

Tomorrow is the day. I’ll be taking photos and writing up the process. Might do a video. It’s been a long week and I have a gig tonight (performer). Up early to fix window and my old explorer that has a braking issue. I’m exhausted just thinking about it.

BadMedcn

I did mine 3 years ago. I read in a GM manual (can’t remember which) the type of adhesive used. 3M Fast Cure Auto Glass Urethane Adhesive 08690. Picked it up at Summit, used a caulking gun. The adhesive is black like original. I got some heavy duty suction cups from Harbor Freight. Placed caulking like original, pressed in, then packed a bunch of towels up against window from inside. Then tied rope to suction cups, applied to outside of window, threw them over the rafters in garage and pulled them tight. Left it like that for 2 days. Has not fallen back out nor leaked thus far. It was easy.

mhanley

Where did you buy the clamps at ?

Mike

TJefferson2020

Amazon. They suck. Half of them don’t stick and pop off. I tossed them aside and went full Macgyver on it.

OMFG that was a difficult job without the clamps.

After I ice my back (also had to check the brakes on my truck. Those wheels weight a **** ton) I’ll post up step by step.

Very messy also. I swear I have adhesive in my ears.

kilowatt

my insurance company replaced my top under comprehensive. All he needed to know was the back window was (broken). No questions asked. I got the check from them yesterday. Top is ordered.

TJefferson2020

What year is your car?