Drew03tx

Ive had my eye on the Mantic 9000 twin disc clutch for a while now and just wanted to get some feedback from people on here that have run it, did you like it? Not like it? Are there some better options price wise?. My car makes 600hp and 535tq NA but will be seeing a 100 shot in the near future. I run a Hoosier 315 radial in the back for the strip and also plan to occasionally run the car on a road course like COTA here in Austin TX. Thanks for any input. Also if you have any links on a good purchase site please send them my way!

Hib Halverson

Take a look at what one of the top C6 ZO6 trackrats runs. Rich Willhoff, who's the '16 and '17 Optima Battery series point champion, uses a Quatermaster 2-plate clutch behind the Katech/Abel Racing built LS7 in his modified '06 ZO6.

Drew03tx

ill take a look thanks!

lt1z

Those clutches are not very street friendly.

Unreal

And roadracing is a totally different ball game from a drag racing clutch that needs to be slipped.

Mantic 9000s are great clutches.

Hib Halverson

Agreed. I suggested considering the Quartermaster because of the type of use the clutch would see, ie: combination of strip and road course.


If the cars use is primarily street, I agree, a Quartermaster would be a poor choice.

CASEWORER

I have a LS7 in my C5 Z06 That makes 552 RWHP and 518 RWTQ. I have the Mantic 9000 clutch and am very pleased with the Performance it provides. I have approximately 8000 miles on it now and it still performs like it did on day 1. However there is definitely increased pedal pressure, not uncomfortable but definitely not as soft as stock. So if someone tells you that it feels like stock that is just not a accurate answer.

mewalker2

I've been running the Mantic 9000 for a couple years now and have been pleased with it. Mine does chatter a bit, but it's common with a twin disc. Granted, I've only street driven the car since install with no dig racing just rolls. Handles my measly 570hp just fine. I would purchase again.

Drew03tx

Are you guys running the cerametallic discs or the organic? I was told the organic discs don't hold up as well or last as long

Mike's LS3

I am running the Mantic 9000 organic discs because of 3 reasons.
1. My car does not see the track.
2. I wanted smooth engagement with oem feel for street driving.
3. I wanted no chatter or shudder on engagement.

After 20k miles, I continue to accomplished all three goals and very happy with the clutch.

However, if you plan on bringing the car to the track, then cerametallic discs are the way to go.
The cerametallic will absorb more heat making them better suited for high performance driving. The downside is the Cerametallic will wear faster if you ride the clutch and you can experience some chatter or shudder on engagement.

Mordeth

Mantic 9000 twin cerametallic with sprung hub. My car is heavily modified, road raced and I am very picky, especially with clutches as I am shifting often and at high speeds/rpms. Clutch is great, works well, engages well and does it's job perfectly. If it didn't, it would have been ripped out immediately. Is also perfectly fine on the street. Got it from Doug at ECS along with their remote clutch bleeder. They have a nice kit.

double06

They also offer a heavier flywheel option. The lightweight is the more common one is like 35 pounds with heavier flywheel it is like 50 pounds. For road racing (primary purpose) go with the lighter flywheel. If you have a blower turbo car with go with lighter flywheel. However, if you drive a lot on street (95+%) and are in a heavy traffic urban area (does not say in your title where you are from) and you have a big cam car NA you might want to look at the heavy flywheel option. But this depends on what you are doing with car and if you are NA etc. I have had both types I have an NA car and I live in DC where it is not uncommon for me to have the press the clutch in over 100 times just to go a few miles while averaging a big 5 mph.

Drew03tx

I’m in San Antonio TX, big cam NA car right now but I do have a nitrous kit waiting to go on after the clutch... of its not a daily car so the lighter flywheel is still probably the better option no?

double06

Maybe you could find someone that has a light flywheel car to test drive. Lots of people have them it just takes some getting use to. The big cam is more of the issue, nitrous kit will not matter as you are not leaving every stoplight with nitrous on. Not sure what clutch you got in there now but the heavy mantic flywheel drives just like stock and is a great clutch. The light one you will pick up 10 rwhp or so and it will rev up better. The heavy one is great for burn outs and does great in traffic and at stoplight where you are on a hill and there is a guy 1 foot behind you. It is a little lighter than the stock GM set up and the clutch is smaller than the GM one so the MOI is better than stock. The lighter flywheel will shift a little better but will / can also chatter at the light sometimes. If it is not a daily driver, you don't live in a hilly area, and you don't see much traffic go with the lighter flywheel. Will blower and turbo cars this is less of an issue.

Unreal

The normal flywheel and cerametallic drives amazing. Ran a twin at 1000+ hp for 20k miles before it started to slip at wot. Now run triple and no issues. Great clutches.

CASEWORER

I am running the ceramic in mine. Occasionally there is a little chatter but nothing I can't live with considering the performance I get. It is well worth the money spent and if I had to do it again tomorrow I would buy the same thing.

double06

I have cermanmetallic in mine works great

travlud

Another vote here for the Mantic twin disk. Great clutch!

Drew03tx

well i think im convinced on it. thanks for the input guys! Another question i have is ive seen the option for a remote clutch bleeder....what exactly does that do and is it a needed item??

vrybad

It is a long flexible braided stainless/teflon-lined extension (like a stainless braided brake line) that replaces the factory bleeder nipple, which resides above the torque tube.
The factory bleeder is a PAIN to get to when bleeding the clutch after a new install, since the exhaust h-pipe is in the way.

This extension can be routed to the underhood area or below the car(where I had mine, but I also have a lift to throw the car up in the air when doing things like clutch or brake bleeding).

In any event, it makes it so much easier to bleed the clutch system, as well as keeps clutch fluid out of the bellhousing area because you will be bleeding it into a container of some sort.

Well worth the $75 or so.