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Yes ,that was the first thing I did when I got home. Will replace the thermostat.
Also check if anything got sucked up in front of the Rad. I once had a plastic bag find its way up there. I left the garage door open and the wife left it on the work bench, must have flown onto the floor and when I started it up got caught up in the rad. Just an idea to check.
Also check if anything got sucked up in front of the Rad. I once had a plastic bag find its way up there. I left the garage door open and the wife left it on the work bench, must have flown onto the floor and when I started it up got caught up in the rad. Just an idea to check.
Thanks,checked for bags,nothing found except one leaf and bug
Ditto with this, hence start the engine, turn the A/C on, and the A/C system should turn the radiator fan on.
If the fan does not come on with the A/C on, start with checking the radiator fan connector on the back side of the radatior passenger side, to make sure that the connector did not burn up.
Red laser dot shined on the connector so you can see where it is, Attachment 48334002
I went on huge road trip a little over a week ago and mine shot to 260's in AZ in city driving and then to 281 in stop and go freeway driving in CO At first I thought the pump had gone out
When I got home to WY I found that the hot wire in the electrical connector had burnt up but was internment for a little while until it finally wasn't making at all...
I didn't want this to happen again, so I upgraded to a 6 pole GM connector and paralleled the hot and grounds to carry the current a little better and hopefully not melt again...
My finding from several years ago, and on this forum as I recall, the factory recommends to run the cooling fan at no more than 88% since they know these connectors are known to fail. Perhaps greater than 88% is where it happens. Didn't know the controller could be programmed to a specific percentage like that. Always assumed it was incremental, like 33%, 66%, etc. Maybe someone has a clarification on this. I don't have the programmer for the Corvette so I can't verify.
2008 Z51 Driving to store engine temp rose to 250. Turned around and went back home. Any ideas ? Would be greatful for any info.
edszo6
Water boils at 212* your coolant provides protection to around 223-225. Under pressure of the system slightly higher to almost 260*. The hotter these engines run without boiling the more efficient they are. I KNOW, I KNOW, we used to like our hot rods to run around 185-190 but those days are gone😉 and assuming a little gauge inaccuracy, 250 while in traffic or not moving at speed seems Ok.
Mark
Last edited by CHEV AGAIN; 05-20-2018 at 03:51 PM.
[QUOTE=edszo6;1597235116]2008 Z51 Driving to store *engine temp* rose to 250. Turned around and went back home. Any ideas ? Would be greatful for any info.
Are you talking about water temp or engine oil temp? These cars really do run at much higher temps than the cars of years past. Did any CEL’s come on? If not, I’d say all is okay.
I went on huge road trip a little over a week ago and mine shot to 260's in AZ in city driving and then to 281 in stop and go freeway driving in CO At first I thought the pump had gone out
When I got home to WY I found that the hot wire in the electrical connector had burnt up but was internment for a little while until it finally wasn't making at all...
I didn't want this to happen again, so I upgraded to a 6 pole GM connector and paralleled the hot and grounds to carry the current a little better and hopefully not melt again...
Water boils at 212* your coolant provides protection to around 223-225. Under pressure of the system slightly higher to almost 260*. The hotter these engines run without boiling the more efficient they are. I KNOW, I KNOW, we used to like our hot rods to run around 185-190 but those days are gone�� and assuming a little gauge inaccuracy, 250 while in traffic or not moving at speed seems Ok.
Mark
I'm an old guy. I was taught 45 years ago "Water boils @ 212' At 16 pounds of pressure water boils @ 248' also keep in mind Gm Dex Cool has even a higher boiling point. So under that thought things are all good. The cooling fans are activated from low speed to high speed when the coolant temp sensor reads 229-230. If the car is automatic heat from the trans cooler will also build heat to the engine radiator. the only thing that I would worry about is head gaskets on an all aluminum heads and block. The coolant temp sensor sends info to the ECM / PCM and TCM all controlling the fans. So I would check out the coolant temp sensor. When I was in the auto parts business I sold many of these sensors. They also have been known to have bad connectors. Mark I agree with you so please don't take me the wrong way. I hope this info helps.
I'm an old guy. I was taught 45 years ago "Water boils @ 212' At 16 pounds of pressure water boils @ 248' also keep in mind Gm Dex Cool has even a higher boiling point. So under that thought things are all good. The cooling fans are activated from low speed to high speed when the coolant temp sensor reads 229-230. If the car is automatic heat from the trans cooler will also build heat to the engine radiator. the only thing that I would worry about is head gaskets on an all aluminum heads and block. The coolant temp sensor sends info to the ECM / PCM and TCM all controlling the fans. So I would check out the coolant temp sensor. When I was in the auto parts business I sold many of these sensors. They also have been known to have bad connectors. Mark I agree with you so please don't take me the wrong way. I hope this info helps.
The ECM activates the fan speed at 15% when coolant reaches 199*F. Then, gradually increases the % as coolant temps rise reaching a maximum of 90% at 224*F.
It is unclear, if the fan is working or if a tune changed fan speed value to 100% which could melted the connector as Dano illustrated.
Last edited by Mike's LS3; 05-20-2018 at 06:57 PM.
Off point I know but makes one wonder about GM's thinking when they have a part (electrical connector) that is already inline in the system and they don't have it made to specs that will allow it to operate at 100% (or maybe 110%) with out melting How could it cost any more to have the system be able to function at capacity ??
NSF
Off point I know but makes one wonder about GM's thinking when they have a part (electrical connector) that is already inline in the system and they don't have it made to specs that will allow it to operate at 100% (or maybe 110%) with out melting How could it cost any more to have the system be able to function at capacity ??
NSF
Off point I know but makes one wonder about GM's thinking when they have a part (electrical connector) that is already inline in the system and they don't have it made to specs that will allow it to operate at 100% (or maybe 110%) with out melting How could it cost any more to have the system be able to function at capacity ??
NSF
Dude, have you not looked at the gauging of wire for the rest of the car, and not figured out that it was value engineered as well.
05-19-2018, 11:38 PM
At first I thought the pump had gone out 
I'm an old guy. I was taught 45 years ago "Water boils @ 212' At 16 pounds of pressure water boils @ 248' also keep in mind Gm Dex Cool has even a higher boiling point. So under that thought things are all good. The cooling fans are activated from low speed to high speed when the coolant temp sensor reads 229-230. If the car is automatic heat from the trans cooler will also build heat to the engine radiator. the only thing that I would worry about is head gaskets on an all aluminum heads and block. The coolant temp sensor sends info to the ECM / PCM and TCM all controlling the fans. So I would check out the coolant temp sensor. When I was in the auto parts business I sold many of these sensors. They also have been known to have bad connectors. Mark I agree with you so please don't take me the wrong way. I hope this info helps.
How could it cost any more to have the system be able to function at capacity ?? 