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I've been lurking on this board and finally had a reason to post
I'm looking to grab my first project vette, but don't want to spend too much money on the initial investment. I've been looking for awhile and came across a 1974 C3 that seems to be in decent condition (I haven't had the chance to go take a look yet, since it is fairly far away). I can get it for about $3000. My specific questions are:
Is it worth it?
If the engine doesn't run at all and I have to rebuild/get a new one - is it still worth it?
I've been trying to figure out exactly how to check for rust on the frame/birdcage without pulling apart parts of the car - any advice would be appreciated
Thank in advance!!
This is what I've been told:
Birdcage and frame are mint. Was originally a barn find. 65xxx miles. Bought it as a project but plans have changed. The engine turns over freely by hand. Needs wiring from starter & alternater to start as far as I know. Ownership in hand.
The good:
T-tops are in good shape with covers
Built 4 speed manual
The 350 is cam'd and has some other work done to it. Not exactly sure what
Brand new front & rear bumpers still in the box and a rear quarter panel. No cracks in the glass
The bad:
Will for sure need pads and rotors, tires, battery, body work ( I have all the parts needed), and some wiring.
Is that a velour interior?
This car looks like a money pit.
3K for a non-running 74 that needs a ton of work would not be my first choice but to each his own.
At the very least I would get the car on a lift to see how ‘mint’ that frame is.
“Barn Find” and “Mint Frame” rarely go hand in hand.
Just sayin’
Is that a velour interior?
This car looks like a money pit.
3K for a non-running 74 that needs a ton of work would not be my first choice but to each his own.
At the very least I would get the car on a lift to see how ‘mint’ that frame is.
“Barn Find” and “Mint Frame” rarely go hand in hand.
Just sayin’
That threw me off initially too but, I haven't seem many "project" vettes with decent interior anyways, so I figure I would need to get them reupholstered anyways.
I agree I have doubts about "barn find" and "mint frame" as well, something doesn't seem to add up. It feels like this person got the car as a project car, and then realized how big of a money pit it actually is and stopped. Either that or was planning to repair it himself and lost all hope
The main problem is getting the car on a lift to begin with, given that it is out of town for me and I don't know any shops that would help me out.
That threw me off initially too but, I haven't seem many "project" vettes with decent interior anyways, so I figure I would need to get them reupholstered anyways.
I agree I have doubts about "barn find" and "mint frame" as well, something doesn't seem to add up. It feels like this person got the car as a project car, and then realized how big of a money pit it actually is and stopped. Either that or was planning to repair it himself and lost all hope
The main problem is getting the car on a lift to begin with, given that it is out of town for me and I don't know any shops that would help me out.
if its all there $3k is a very good price....look carefully at the body mount locations and around the windshield.
also check the rear wheel bearings and trailing arms....you can drop an easy thousand on rebuilding the rear end probably more....
350 engines are cheap even used ones bolt right in.
theres a big following for those wheels also.
the real trick is total finished costs.....so when your done at 16k the question is should you have spent 9 to 12k for a better one?
AND WELCOME!
The 3k is very enticing, but afraid of the money pit i'm walking into. I do understand what you mean the difference in cost over time. Thank you for your advice, that is what I initially thought about the engine when I read some of the other thread on this forum, but wasn't sure - at least that puts my mind to ease a little.
How would I go about checking the "rear wheel bearings and trailing arms" would I need to lift the car for that or is there anything I can do while the car is on the ground?
Body work alone will be $12k-15k. Unless you do it yourself. If you want to redo the seats that will be another grand in materials if you do it yourself maybe two grand if you have them done.
Other costs will be engine work. Can you get a car running that you don't really know anything about its history? Its harder when you get handed someone else's work to try and back track to figure out what the problem is. He says electrical (wiring starter/alt) To me that could mean anything. And That could get expensive if you have to pay someone else.
You are going to be upside down financially real quick with this car. And that's assuming everything else is perfect.......
Save your money and pick a good running car. You will have plenty to do even with a good running car. These things always need something.
Last edited by ed427vette; 05-22-2018 at 11:46 PM.
Body work alone will be $12k-15k. Unless you do it yourself. If you want to redo the seats that will be another grand in materials if you do it yourself maybe two grand if you have them done.
Other costs will be engine work. Can you get a car running that you don't really know anything about its history? Its harder when you get handed someone else's work to try and back track to figure out what the problem is. He says electrical (wiring starter/alt) To me that could mean anything. And That could get expensive if you have to pay someone else.
You are going to be upside down financially real quick with this car. And that's assuming everything else is perfect.......
Save your money and pick a good running car. You will have plenty to do even with a good running car. These things always need something.
can't argue with a Senior Member thanks for the advice, I'll go take a look with the family as a trip (there is a beach nearby), but I'll make sure not to take cash or my cheque book. Thanks!
To add, something I have learned hanging around here is:
ALWAYS BUY THE BEST CAR YOU CAN AFFORD
It cheaper to have and let someone else do the repairs, then you buying the car and thinking you will do it!!! Rarely do you get the money that you have put into the car out of it out, so its to the buyers advantage to have a car that the previous owner has resolved the issues.
There's nothing better than a white C3 with a 4-speed! I paid more for my project, but didn't have any body work to do. I am looking at about $2K to fix the rear steer (with mild upgrades) without even touching the diff.
If the damage is limited to the (non-original fiberglass) bumpers, and you don't mind doing the painting yourself, that is all a bolt-on fix. I did that to replace the bumpers and fenders on my Sunfire, doing the painting myself to match the rest of the car, and the replaced pieces held up just as well as OEM for 15 more years. Expect to spend $1-2K on the interior, perhaps more if you want to go with leather everything. You might want to consider 79-82 seats, or C4 or C5 seats while you are at it.
Birdcage rust is the real killer. Bring a flashlight and a screwdriver, and check behind the kickpanels, and in front of the rear tires. Get under the car if you can, as others have suggested.
If you are up for a project, go have a look! If you want a car to drive RFN, though, there are plenty of other C3s out there. Try to find one where all of these problems have already been fixed.
If you want a car that you can work on for years, never have enough money to get that rear end or other part right, and only dream about driving it, buy this one.
That said only as fair warning that most times a car like that will need everything. And as you take one thing off to fix, you find more.
Mine came to me as a good looking driving car needing brake work. Then front susp rubber, then radiator, then exhaust studs broken, leaking fuel front to back etc... 6 yrs later, now all thats left is paint and exhaust.
I had a 74 (not as nice) that I tried and failed to sell for $3K (link below), I got tired of the tire kickers here and on Craigslist so I chopped it up and it brought back $10K, all I have left is the L-48 motor.
I had a 74 (not as nice) that I tried and failed to sell for $3K (link below), I got tired of the tire kickers here and on Craigslist so I chopped it up and it brought back $10K, all I have left is the L-48 motor.
So the lesson here is, the floor price of a project is lower than the sum of the parts. If the car runs, drives, and STOPS, is as rust free as they say, and only needs new bumpers, you can't lose. As long as you have time for a project, a garage, and the ability to do a lot of the work yourself. Even doing it all yourself, you can spend a LOT more getting a car up to daily-driver status than the car will ever be worth to someone else.
I'd like to see cars like this saved, but I can't adopt them all. My garage is full.
05-22-2018, 11:12 PM
Advice needed: 1974 "Barn Find" Project Car
