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I have my ideas, but thought I would ask here first.
What's the best way to tackle this repair.
This is the passenger side fender where the hood closes down on it.
Thanks,
Pat
mine had a bunch of cracked seams. my fix was to put a piece of tape on the skirt side an measure the existing in several places so you can get it back to where it was. Then using a die grinder and cutoff wheel carefully cut the crack out, now put some small blocks in a few places and clamp them to give you the measurements you started with. now mix up the pnl bonding adhesive and fill in but leave a little room around the spacer blocks so you can remove them when it cures. then remove them and mix up some more adhesive and fill in those areas and you should have it. good luck. jcw
Grind out as much as that old filler/adhesive as you can. A good sharp wood chisel. Try to bring the wheel house up some so the seam is not so wide. Dead giveaway the nose has been changed. Set the height of the surround to the hood, use a few spacers if needed. then fill the gap with whatever adhesive you like. Brian G.
I hate to say it but using a wood chisel is something that just is WRONG. YEAH..I wrote that and stand behind it. The car is not made out of wood.
Beating on the car with chisel is JUST ASKING for trouble for THIS particular type of repair. Do I use seam splitters which is a modified chisel. YES I do...but I would NOT for this repair.
AS mentioned...use a cut off wheel or die grinder and carefully get out as much as you can and fill it back in.
No need on trying to close the gap. Get it back to where it was so you do not run into the hood not being flush with the top hood surround in that area. HECK..maybe you might need to close up the gap. Only YOU will know this.
I'm not a "body" man, but how did your hood match up to the hood surround? If it was nice, you'll want to bond that exactly like it was, but of course without the cracking.
I'm not a "body" man, but how did your hood match up to the hood surround? If it was nice, you'll want to bond that exactly like it was, but of course without the cracking.
yea i just placed a tape line as suggested, and ground out the old filler.
yea i just placed a tape line as suggested, and ground out the old filler.
The hood fit fine before.
looks to be pretty easy.
Thanks,
Pat
Dremel makes a tool called a multi max that is a vibratory cutting tool , one of the blades it uses is triangular with bits of carbide attached to both top and bottom edge @ 1/8 thick . It would make short work of that job , tool is easy to use and very controllable . Hope this helps Jeff
If you are going to place the body back on the frame to do any needed body work, shimming, mock up work I think it would be best to wait until it's shimmed and the hood is installed. This inner fender bond to the surround panel was done in a jig at the factory and the hood/surround panel level alignment can be affected if you don't get it back where it was originally.
That's the only way I know of to make sure it's right. The core support bolted to the frame will set the height of the front surround and you can install the hood and shim at the hinge if needed then get it even by the grill area and last set the sides level with the surround, it's that bond that holds that alignment.
YES. DO NOT bond this IF the body is NOT on the FRAME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Actually WAIT until you get it back on and see if you are going to need any other body repairs.
Going out and buying an adhesive just for this crack may be pointless IF you have other repairs. That is when what I suggested the Vette Panel Adhesive in the PM will do MANY of your repairs IF you have other body issues.
If you are going to place the body back on the frame to do any needed body work, shimming, mock up work I think it would be best to wait until it's shimmed and the hood is installed. This inner fender bond to the surround panel was done in a jig at the factory and the hood/surround panel level alignment can be affected if you don't get it back where it was originally.
That's the only way I know of to make sure it's right. The core support bolted to the frame will set the height of the front surround and you can install the hood and shim at the hinge if needed then get it even by the grill area and last set the sides level with the surround, it's that bond that holds that alignment.
Originally Posted by DUB
YES. DO NOT bond this IF the body is NOT on the FRAME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Actually WAIT until you get it back on and see if you are going to need any other body repairs.
Going out and buying an adhesive just for this crack may be pointless IF you have other repairs. That is when what I suggested the Vette Panel Adhesive in the PM will do MANY of your repairs IF you have other body issues.
DUB
Whew!! Thanks for the advise guys. I was planning to do this soon, but the body is on a dolly, not the frame.
I'll just keep cleaning, sanding an preparing until I get ready to place it back onto the frame.
I have only one place (left rear wheel), where there's about a 3" crack that will need to be repaired. Other than that, there's no other body damage on the car.
If you are going to place the body back on the frame to do any needed body work, shimming, mock up work I think it would be best to wait until it's shimmed and the hood is installed. This inner fender bond to the surround panel was done in a jig at the factory and the hood/surround panel level alignment can be affectedd if you don't get it back where it was originally.
That's the only way I know of to make sure it's right. The core support bolted to the frame will set the height of the front surround and you can install the hood and shim at the hinge if needed then get it even by the grill area and last set the sides level with the surround, it's that bond that holds that alignment.
Knowing that you have another crack. I would advise in you getting a quart of Vette Panel Adhesive.
Now..not knowing any particulars about the other crack and where it actually is and what it will take to fix it. Getting the Vette Panal Adhesive will absolutely repair the crack/panel separaion in the wheel housing area.
Because using any of the current 2 part epoxy cartridge adhesives. They will bond but what they do not like is solvents...so that means that they need to be coved with a body filler of some type to prevent swelling
And knowing that if you used a 2 part adhesive out of cartridge. Then buying a body filler is gong to need to be done anyway..so why not just get the VPA and not buy the other.
That's a piece of cake to repair that one. I would "vee" it out maybe one inch wide (1/2" each side +-), do not go through the other side if possible then use some masking tape to make a form on the inside nice and flat with the surrounding area and lip. Cut some fiberglass mat (not cloth) small strips first in the deep area then wider each piece until building up to above the existing fender height (cut and fit before you mix any resin). Use as little resin as needed to wet fiberglass mat, a stiff very small brush works well with a small repair like this
Let the repair sit a few days and try to keep the work as best as possible below the body style line. Because this mat and resin will be so hard to sand i use a small grinder to shape the repair and top it with easy to sand body filler. At that point you can fine tune the shape without lowering any adjacent surfaces using the body filler. Keep in mind the strength of the repair is the mat and resin, it will be very strong. When you are finished remove the masking tape if you have not already done so and scuff the smooth inside area with some 80 grit to clean it and cut one piece of mat to overlap the repair maybe 1/2", it will be a very strong repair.
It seems like no matter how hard you try these repairs always show a little in different settings because different materials expand and contract different than the original surrounding surfaces but don't get me wrong it will be 99% unnoticeable. Below the style line it will probably never show.
Strip the car body and make all the mess then mock it up on the frame with the frame sitting on tires etc. Fit the doors and start with the exact shim count you removed but don't be afraid to add/subtract shims if needed. Use body filler for cosmetic repairs only which may be the bulk of the work you need to do. Attach pictures as you go along and you will get good advice from people here.
What level of repair do you want for this crack in your quarter panel???
Do you want it so you can not tell it was there even if you run to run hand on the inside of the quarter panel where the crack is now???
OR...do you want an obvious lump when you feel the thickness of the edge of the quarter panel...along with the contour of it on the inside???
Do not restrict your repair to being below the line. FIX THE CRACK. If you have to get above the body line..do not worry about it. It will not telegraph through later in time if done correctly. PERIOD!
I DO KNOW that I would NOT use a 2 part epoxy adhesive for this repair on your quarter panel.
That's a piece of cake to repair that one. I would "vee" it out maybe one inch wide (1/2" each side +-), do not go through the other side if possible then use some masking tape to make a form on the inside nice and flat with the surrounding area and lip. Cut some fiberglass mat (not cloth) small strips first in the deep area then wider each piece until building up to above the existing fender height (cut and fit before you mix any resin). Use as little resin as needed to wet fiberglass mat, a stiff very small brush works well with a small repair like this
Let the repair sit a few days and try to keep the work as best as possible below the body style line. Because this mat and resin will be so hard to sand i use a small grinder to shape the repair and top it with easy to sand body filler. At that point you can fine tune the shape without lowering any adjacent surfaces using the body filler. Keep in mind the strength of the repair is the mat and resin, it will be very strong. When you are finished remove the masking tape if you have not already done so and scuff the smooth inside area with some 80 grit to clean it and cut one piece of mat to overlap the repair maybe 1/2", it will be a very strong repair.
It seems like no matter how hard you try these repairs always show a little in different settings because different materials expand and contract different than the original surrounding surfaces but don't get me wrong it will be 99% unnoticeable. Below the style line it will probably never show.
Strip the car body and make all the mess then mock it up on the frame with the frame sitting on tires etc. Fit the doors and start with the exact shim count you removed but don't be afraid to add/subtract shims if needed. Use body filler for cosmetic repairs only which may be the bulk of the work you need to do. Attach pictures as you go along and you will get good advice from people here.
Originally Posted by DUB
Pat,
What level of repair do you want for this crack in your quarter panel???
Do you want it so you can not tell it was there even if you run to run hand on the inside of the quarter panel where the crack is now???
OR...do you want an obvious lump when you feel the thickness of the edge of the quarter panel...along with the contour of it on the inside???
Do not restrict your repair to being below the line. FIX THE CRACK. If you have to get above the body line..do not worry about it. It will not telegraph through later in time if done correctly. PERIOD!
I DO KNOW that I would NOT use a 2 part epoxy adhesive for this repair on your quarter panel.
DUB
Thanks for the advise guys.
I do wish to get the repair completed, and have it to be undetectable, even so from the inside.
Not sure I'll be able to make it that "perfect", but I will give it a hell of a try.
Especially so if you guy's are willing to offer assistance and advise.
05-25-2018, 12:02 AM
Question for the body guys.
