Thermostat housing bolt size.
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Thermostat housing bolt size.
1985. Can someone help me with the exact size of the 2 bolts. PO had used a larger one and I have to use washers as it is to long. It started leaking again so I want to get 2 new bolts, to have ready. Does it use a flat washer or lock type. Thx
Last edited by xrav22; 05-25-2018 at 11:44 AM.
#4
For an '85 there should be (1) 3/8-16 x 1 1/4 and then the stud that I believe is 3/8-16 x 3/4 on one end and length sufficient for outlet attaching. The stud knowing bolt length should be easy enough to choose local I'd think.
**An original stud would be 3/4 threaded both ends with the shoulder length that I'm really not sure of and the hex nut might have been fixed.
**An original stud would be 3/4 threaded both ends with the shoulder length that I'm really not sure of and the hex nut might have been fixed.
Last edited by WVZR-1; 05-25-2018 at 05:29 PM.
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xrav22 (05-25-2018)
#5
one bolt, one stud -- the bolt is GM #9440249 - 3/8-16 x 1.25
the stud, GM #14091545 - 3/8-16 x .78 (both ends)
the stud is the rear housing fastener, and attaches (i'm thinking) the ground wire for the fuel pump relay. the stud is discontinued, but i'm guessing you could fab one from a piece of all-thread, and a couple jamb nuts. might find one used on fleabay or ???
the stud, GM #14091545 - 3/8-16 x .78 (both ends)
the stud is the rear housing fastener, and attaches (i'm thinking) the ground wire for the fuel pump relay. the stud is discontinued, but i'm guessing you could fab one from a piece of all-thread, and a couple jamb nuts. might find one used on fleabay or ???
Last edited by Joe C; 05-25-2018 at 08:37 PM.
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xrav22 (05-26-2018)
#6
one bolt, one stud -- the bolt is GM #9440249 - 3/8-16 x 1.25
the stud, GM #14091545 - 3/8-16 x .78 (both ends)
the stud is the rear housing fastener, and attaches (i'm thinking) the ground wire for the fuel pump relay. the stud is discontinued, but i'm guessing you could fab one from a piece of all-thread, and a couple jamb nuts. might find one used on fleabay or ???
the stud, GM #14091545 - 3/8-16 x .78 (both ends)
the stud is the rear housing fastener, and attaches (i'm thinking) the ground wire for the fuel pump relay. the stud is discontinued, but i'm guessing you could fab one from a piece of all-thread, and a couple jamb nuts. might find one used on fleabay or ???
Ground is G103 and should be an eyelet coming out of the injector harness. It supplies ground for much.
Last edited by WVZR-1; 05-25-2018 at 09:01 PM.
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xrav22 (05-26-2018)
#7
WHY NOT??? your daily education -- definition (Wikipedia):
isn't it fun learning something new?
recall I said with "a couple jamb nuts," thus making a working stud. we're talking about holding a friggin' thermostat housing in place where clamping force is minimal, and torque requirement is only 26 ft.lbs. somehow I think you're over thinking this? reference this -- http://www.marshfasteners.com/how-to...-threaded-rod/. you might want to read it - especially this part:
then again, Marsh Fasteners probably got this all wrong. I know more than one person that solved minor assembly "snafu's" with threaded rod and a couple nuts. I brought this up as a suggestion since original hardware is unavailable, and by no means meant it to be the final solution. you have a good one my friend -
Threaded rod. A threaded rod, also known as a stud, is a relatively long rod that is threaded on both ends; the thread may extend along the complete length of the rod. They are designed to be used in tension. Threaded rod in bar stock form is often called all-thread.
recall I said with "a couple jamb nuts," thus making a working stud. we're talking about holding a friggin' thermostat housing in place where clamping force is minimal, and torque requirement is only 26 ft.lbs. somehow I think you're over thinking this? reference this -- http://www.marshfasteners.com/how-to...-threaded-rod/. you might want to read it - especially this part:
...when stainless steel threaded rod comes to the rescue. Readily available in different diameters and lengths, you can make your own bolts simply by sawing to the correct length, putting coupling nuts or fasteners on each end and VOILA, your custom length bolt is ready.
Many DIYers who tinker, fix or maintain their own boats, bikes, cars or homes use threaded rod to provide quick and easy joining or fastening solutions
Many DIYers who tinker, fix or maintain their own boats, bikes, cars or homes use threaded rod to provide quick and easy joining or fastening solutions
#8
xrav22 - if you can't find the correct OE part, and need a quick fix - a couple bucks at ACE hardware and 15 minutes in your shop.
(in case I didn't make it clear in my previous post) -- a piece of threaded rod, or get a 3/8-16 bolt with sufficient thread length and cut to size -
other options - use a flange nut with a jamb nut in place of the flat washer and jamb nuts -
assemble and torque to spec, and you could fly the M-F'r to the moon and back without failure...
(in case I didn't make it clear in my previous post) -- a piece of threaded rod, or get a 3/8-16 bolt with sufficient thread length and cut to size -
other options - use a flange nut with a jamb nut in place of the flat washer and jamb nuts -
assemble and torque to spec, and you could fly the M-F'r to the moon and back without failure...
Last edited by Joe C; 05-26-2018 at 08:50 AM.
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xrav22 (05-26-2018)
#9
@Joe C It's good of you to point all of that out but knowing what I was looking for I would have likely made my '1st stop' at the Scag dealer I buy from and the 2nd maybe the local NAPA. I see absolutely no reason to make my first choice 'all-thread'.
The GAL I buy my Scag and 'other' zero-turn parts from I'm quite sure could help me.
The GAL I buy my Scag and 'other' zero-turn parts from I'm quite sure could help me.
#10
Drifting
Thread Starter
@Joe C It's good of you to point all of that out but knowing what I was looking for I would have likely made my '1st stop' at the Scag dealer I buy from and the 2nd maybe the local NAPA. I see absolutely no reason to make my first choice 'all-thread'.
The GAL I buy my Scag and 'other' zero-turn parts from I'm quite sure could help me.
The GAL I buy my Scag and 'other' zero-turn parts from I'm quite sure could help me.
10mm washers. I don't need the stud, because my ground is to the smog bracket. But I would not have any problem using the setup(nice drawing BTW). I an going to substitute my intake bolts with Hillman black allens too. Thanks for the help i was able to get a assortment of 3/8x16 to get started.
Last edited by xrav22; 05-26-2018 at 11:07 AM.
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xrav22 (05-26-2018)
#12
I have been reading and ended up buying Hillman black alens withhttps://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/editpost.php?do=editpost&p=1597278564
10mm washers. I don't need the stud, because my ground is to the smog bracket. But I would not have any problem using the setup(nice drawing BTW). I an going to substitute my intake bolts with Hillman black allens too. Thanks for the help i was able to get a assortment of 3/8x16 to get started.
10mm washers. I don't need the stud, because my ground is to the smog bracket. But I would not have any problem using the setup(nice drawing BTW). I an going to substitute my intake bolts with Hillman black allens too. Thanks for the help i was able to get a assortment of 3/8x16 to get started.
It wouldn't be considered unusual for the depth and thread count to be very different in the intake!!!
#13
Drifting
Thread Starter
Yes they are different ,that is what caused the problem. I will measure exactly when I replace them. The guy had 2 long ones and one is a bit shorter. I kept wondering why it was leaking even after tightening. Just a hair too long was one of the bolts. In fact they are like spare bolts he found laying around. Thanks to all I will do the final check when I open it up again.