hobobiker

Well, the parts box finally came. It's about 100 degrees here in the shade, so I'm not sure how much I'll get done in the next few days but I'll post as I go. When upgrading other components and checking my valve springs (to make sure they weren't the stock yellow ones), I found what looked to be the Comp Cams trunnions. Even though the needles in Comps are encased and not known for shedding like the stockers, the metal HAS been known to wear and get passed through the engine. At almost 100k miles and with all the other upgrades I just didn't want to chance it. CHE upgrade here we come.

At least their tagline doesn't mince any words about their more expensive pricing...


I have to say, it was similar to opening a jewelry box. Nicely packaged...

neutron82

those look VERY similar to the straub trunnions that I used on my car, all the way down to the packaging... they use a different oil channel in the trunnion itself and the bushing looks a little smaller in thickness than what I remember in my straub kit but other than that they look about the same... I do know that straub has changed the oil channel a bit since I got my kit, I will try to find a pic later on for conparison

hobobiker

I didn't think I could go wrong either way, so it was basically a flip of a coin...

neutron82

I agree, both kits are high quality... I'm curious if they get the parts from the same supplier though

leadfoot4

How big a market is there, for LS rocker arm bushings and trunnions, such that there would be 2-3 suppliers making them? Multiple sellers, yeah, I could see that...

hobobiker

From what I've read, the Straub's need to be pressed in and the CHE's do not. If it is indeed the same manufacturer, I wonder if they're building them to slightly different tolerances?

At any rate, whenever I decide to compete with the heat and take this on I'll post some pics. I also want to put a dial indicator on a rocker to measure the cam/valve lift since I don't know what bumpstick is in there...

leadfoot4

I don't see how the CHEs could be a simple "slip in", as that would tell me that the bushing is possibility rotating in the rocker arm, as well as on the trunnion. I would think that would eventually begin to wear the inner bore of the rocker.

As previously mentioned, I have the Straub bushings, and while I did have to press them into place, it didn't require very much force. I'm assuming that the fit is just snug enough to keep the bushing stationary. I have a small arbor press, that I got at my former employer's "garage sale", which I used to originally install the Comp Cams trunnion kit, then the Straub kit.

TastyBacon

In for pics of worn Comp trunnions

Rx7Rob

CHE's are not like the straub. They are a slip fit and machined to higher tolerances. The trunnions are also a slightly larger dia. Absolutely not manufactured by the same co.

neutron82

here's my straub kit... so they are similar but there are some differences as well... besides the things I mentioned above I noticed that the area where the bolt goes is machined differently when compared to the che kit that you have... the che looks more like the comp trunnion but with an oil channel machined into it... also including a pic of my worn out comps

hobobiker

I'm not sure either, and I don't know whether it's really true at this point since the last two nights have been way too hot to try. I'm just reciting what I've read from others at this point. Time will tell when I dig in. Maybe it's the brass bushings that press in and the trunnion slips between them...

hobobiker

I'm actually anxious to see what they look like as well. Since I just got the car, I can't be sure how long they've even been installed. Could be years, could be months. I just didn't want to take a chance...

leadfoot4

hobobiker

It was cooler tonight, so I skipped the gym and came home to knock out the trunnion upgrade. I figured it would take about four hours, and that was right about on the money.

Again, I have no idea how long these Comp Cams trunnions have been in the car, but seeing some of the bad experiences I didn't want to be a statistic. Especially at almost 100k miles and wanting to put the girl on a dyno to see what she has at the rear wheels. My CCs weren't as worn down as much as other forum members, but some of them definitely showed wear:







Some bearings fell out as I removed them, but I don't think the CCs had the same issue with roller bearings falling out as the stock OEM trunnions did. The CCs were more known for metal wear and shavings getting into the engine.

hobobiker

The job actually went well. So well, in fact, that I waited for the very last one to take some pics for the thread.

15 down...one to go...


The brass bushings were very well made and looked like jewelry...


If you're not familiar with some of the available tools, here is one. The job can be accomplished with sockets, but I'm a tool hound so it was an excuse to add one more to my toolbox.


This is how the rocker assembly fits into the tool. Simple to use and press the old bearings/trunnion out of the assembly:


As I had read elsewhere and posted, there is no "pressing" of the brass bushings into the rocker arm. You simply oil them up and they slide right in. Do one side, them slip the trunnion in, then slip the other brass bushing in. Add the snap rings on both ends and you're done.

Big Jay E

CHE has it's own machine shop.

leadfoot4

Back when I first heard about the OE trunnion issues, and investigated alternatives, I looked into these bushings. However, at the time, all CHE was doing was taking your rockers, on an exchange basis, and installing their kit. The cost was around $400, and the turn-around was about 3 weeks, IIRC.

I didn't want the car tied up that long, and I have to admit, I also felt that the price was a little steep, since I don't track my car, or drive it all that hard. Shortly thereafter, Comp Cams came out with their kit, and I went with that. Then the issues with the Comp Cams kit came to light, and I went with the Straub kit.

With respect to the needles falling out of the Comp bearings upon disassembly, yes, that is to be expected. When you purchase this kit, the needles are held in place by a dollop of grease, which lasts long enough for you to get them installed. Over time, the motor oil displaces this grease, and when you disassemble them, the oil doesn't have enough "stiction" to retain the needles.

hobobiker

For $400ish dollars and weeks of downtime, I wouldn't have went the CHE direction either. Straub was definitely on my radar, and truthfully I don't think I could have gone wrong either way. Glad I have her done now - thanks for the input!

Now I need to start researching the reverse lockout issues, since on her maiden voyage home my son behind me noticed the reverse lights coming on as I merged on the Toll Road. Yep, I started to go into reverse instead of 5th. One more thing for the wrenching list... :-)

leadfoot4

There's such a thing know as the "Anti-Venom Mod", that was popular in the past. Some people were complaining that their shifters were "too stiff" going through the neutral gate, so a former shop in Florida, called "Anti Venom" came up with the idea of adding a washer (or two) to the reverse gear lock out solenoid on the transmission. This took out some of the effort required to move the shifter, but MAY be contributing to what you're experiencing.

I'm not saying that IS your issue, but I'd start by looking there.

ArmchairArchitect

I just had my valvesprings replaced on my stock 2002 Z06, 58k miles. Is replacing the trunions something that would've been very minimal extra labor when already doing the valveprings? If so, I'm sort of regretting not having the trunions replaced at the same time.