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I started doing this with C3's many years back because of the radiator cap being lower than part of the intake and the radiator and heater hoses. I just leave the radiator cap off and start filling through the T adapter in the top heater hose. As soon as the radiator is full up the cap, I put the cap on and fill the funnel with coolant. I then start squeezing the upper radiator hose until the bubbles quit coming and the coolant quits going down in the funnel.
I have never had to add more coolant after using this method and any possibility of an air lock is eliminated. I've never had a leak or failure from one of these adapters either.
The time I had to replace a waterpump on the side of the road years ago- I just could not get the air out-temp kept creeping after driving a few miles.
Ended up parking on a hill-and was able to fill it up all the way. Now I just jack up the car.
I've seen that flush kit I just don't want to introduce more connections the create more potential leaks. Great idea though.
It may be just me but I've never had a problem filling mine and getting the air out using this method. After I've done anything to drain the coolant system I just take off the upper rad hose/thermostat housing and thermostat and start filling there. I fill up the block/radiator until I can't get any more in. Install the thermostat (with two 1/8 holes drilled in the thermostat body) then fill the expansion tank to 3/4 full. Start the car and warm it up. I can actually see the coolant level drop in the expansion tank when the thermostat opens. I then keep adding more coolant to the expansion tank until the level stops dropping. Look for leaks then take a drive around town and watch the temp. After my drive I let the car cool for a while the check the level again and usually have to add a quart or so to get the expansion tank level back to the cold level which is the expansion tank half-full. That's it, no crazy temp level swings because of air using this method.
I do have the aluminum factory style radiator that has no cap on it so my cap is on the expansion tank which may make a difference.
Buy a vacuum filler if you're a car guy and never look back. They rock, testing, no bubbles, easy fill -> All in one.
I agree and I have one. I am not a fan of having any more hose connections than absolutely necessary in anything if at all possible. Only because if I add something....I am now married to it and would have to hear about it or pay for a tow if it failed. But that is just me,
I have the snap on vacuum filler I will never use anything else , I do my mix in a 5gal bucket drop the hose in and walk away . Sorry not to knock the tee fitting system but I can't tell you how many leaking tees I removed when I had my auto repair garage most dried out and cracked or the clamps got loose over time.
As with everything, there is always a better way. I don't work on any cars but my own anymore, so not likely to buy a Snap-On vacuum tool, especially when the Corvette budget is tighter than it used to be. I keep a pretty close eye on everything, the hoses and tee are brand new, and since I have had good service from these, I'm not too worried about it. I could see people putting tee's in used heater hoses and then leaving it under the hot hood of a daily driver for years, and having problems.
Mike
I started doing this with C3's many years back because of the radiator cap being lower than part of the intake and the radiator and heater hoses. I just leave the radiator cap off and start filling through the T adapter in the top heater hose. As soon as the radiator is full up the cap, I put the cap on and fill the funnel with coolant. I then start squeezing the upper radiator hose until the bubbles quit coming and the coolant quits going down in the funnel.
I have never had to add more coolant after using this method and any possibility of an air lock is eliminated. I've never had a leak or failure from one of these adapters either.
Mike
The "Tee" adapter in that flush and fill kit works well, if you don't mind the extra connections, the clutter and the greater possibility of leaks (more clamps to fail, the fitting itself could leek, the cap on the tee connector could fail).
With that particular manifold, if I were filling it without that tee connector, I'd just unscrew the plug from the port on the opposite side of the crossover pipe from the heater hose. Then I'd fill with coolant from the radiator until coolant either runs out the open port on the manifold (most likely) or until it's full at the cap. With that plug removed, the air has a way to escape and you'll get the block full. Then, reinstall the plug in the manifold crossover passage and top up as much as you can at the radiator cap after installing the plug. What little air is left will "burp" out the first time you get it up to operating temp.
The "Tee" adapter in that flush and fill kit works well, if you don't mind the extra connections, the clutter and the greater possibility of leaks (more clamps to fail, the fitting itself could leek, the cap on the tee connector could fail).
With that particular manifold, if I were filling it without that tee connector, I'd just unscrew the plug from the port on the opposite side of the crossover pipe from the heater hose. Then I'd fill with coolant from the radiator until coolant either runs out the open port on the manifold (most likely) or until it's full at the cap. With that plug removed, the air has a way to escape and you'll get the block full. Then, reinstall the plug in the manifold crossover passage and top up as much as you can at the radiator cap after installing the plug. What little air is left will "burp" out the first time you get it up to operating temp.
You can't get it full from filling the radiator. The cap is lower than the thermostat and a great part of the upper radiator hose, as well as part of the upper heater hose. It's even questionable if the coolant port on the manifold even gets full to the top. This gets all the air out.
I think everyone missed the part where I said I have been doing this for many years without any issues! I wouldn't continue to use something that has caused me problems. If it ever does, I'll deal with it then.
With the Gates Power Grip clamps, it's not very conspicuous. I think it looks fine too.
I just saw you trying to help with something you liked and getting shot down hard in flames, wheres the camaradiree ?
My 81 had one of those Ts daily driver havent a clue why it was there i bought the car low miles near new, it lasted 100k no leaks
Truth is and maybe i get lucky ive never had a issue getting my coolant level full, and owned lots of vettes and oddball mid and rear engine cars,
I see countless corvette people do have problems and wonder why not me
They're not so much shooting him down but replying with constructive criticism, and that is camaraderie. I've used the plastic t's but have been very careful not to leave them in for extended periods as I have had them crack and as recently as a few weeks ago on my van. I'd forgotten I left one in there. I prob have a vehicle with one in right now. But if you can't have constructive criticism it leaves much room for disaster in many cases. Should have thicker skin than that.
I just want to add this...From what I have seen...some of the plastics from decades ago can last due to they still made things right. But I have installed plastic vacuum 'T's on an engine and actually have seen them get sucked shut due to the cheesy plastic use to make it.
Not that nay of this applies here..but is just an observation have seen that does not occur all the time...but I have had it happen to me. I wrote this to possibly point out the possibility that a part of years gone past can outlast one made today. Who knows. just a thought.
I just want to add this...From what I have seen...some of the plastics from decades ago can last due to they still made things right. But I have installed plastic vacuum 'T's on an engine and actually have seen them get sucked shut due to the cheesy plastic use to make it.
Not that nay of this applies here..but is just an observation have seen that does not occur all the time...but I have had it happen to me. I wrote this to possibly point out the possibility that a part of years gone past can outlast one made today. Who knows. just a thought.
DUB
I've seen this too, and not just with plastic parts. At any rate, I don't trust plastic for any pressurized automotive systems (PEX is fine in the house, though). I've had plastic reducers fail and leak. The expansion tank seems to be okay, but that isn't pressurized.
I just want to add this...From what I have seen...some of the plastics from decades ago can last due to they still made things right. But I have installed plastic vacuum 'T's on an engine and actually have seen them get sucked shut due to the cheesy plastic use to make it.
Not that nay of this applies here..but is just an observation have seen that does not occur all the time...but I have had it happen to me. I wrote this to possibly point out the possibility that a part of years gone past can outlast one made today. Who knows. just a thought.
DUB
I know what you are talking about. I just had a brand new tee I bought for my vacuum line break just putting the line on. If I have issues, it will be the last time I will use it. I did go for a brand name though instead of some nameless unknown part.
Awesome looking motor BTW , that vetted must pull hard with the 4.11's and that sick motor
It was a beast in my 80 Vette with 3.08 gears. It should be real hard on tires with the 4.11's. I've also done a couple of things to eak out a little more power too. I should have it running again within the next few days.
This is hopefully the last thing I will add to this thread. But it kinda applies once again.
I do KNOW that there are some people who have responded that do know how to work on their cars so this is NOT directed at them. This is for the person who may not know this.
The kit that was shown is all well in good for those who care to use it. I am not wanting to get into all that. BUT...the one thing that those people who do not work on their cars may not understand that IF the cooling system is going to be flushed and filled.
It is wise to drain the ENTIRE system and not just drain the radiator. The reason is that there is a lot of old coolant and crud inside the engine block BELOW where the water can drain out when ONLY the radiator is drained. So..in effect ..unless you pull the block drains. This "flush adn fill' principle is actually only doing it half way.
So IF the instructions state to drain the block...then as I wrote...it is WISE to do just that even though I know that there are members who never will due it the fear of causing a problem when they go to pull out eh block drain plugs...
Because leaving out this one step may cause a person not be able to achieve the desired end result.
I just did a little destruction testing on one of the extra tee's that came in the kit. I broke it, but it took a lot of force with a bar in each end and prying against my vice. They look to be glass reinforced plastic, pretty tuff stuff. I'm not too worried about it failing.
06-20-2018, 02:43 PM
Easy way to fill cooling system.
