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Hey, most of you know this ls7 is forsure staying NA cause I have a boosted build inline. I知 wanting to make this car once again my drag/track car. Now this is for people like Mordeth and anyone else who tracks. I知 looking to have fun I値l drag race once a week and want to start tracking my car anywhere in 1/4s of a year but for full weekends 3x4=12 days is this considered to much? To the point I need rebuilds once a year? And what are the first 5 mods in order you guys did.
Im thinking
larger oil tank
the baffle for the tank
new oil pump bigger and better
sway bars
brakes?
i want to keep this z for a long time so I eventually want to do everything humanly possible to this car and just enjoy the hell out of it. And how does insurance work on track days or if a clown hits you?
This is what I do with my Z. Drive her 3-5 times a week and I took her to SCT Charlotte last weekend. Drove 2 hours there, ran twice, and then drove back. These cars are great!
This is what I do with my Z. Drive her 3-5 times a week and I took her to SCT Charlotte last weekend. Drove 2 hours there, ran twice, and then drove back. These cars are great!
going down to Texas in Octoberish to race and meet Lamar
I use my car for commuting, road trips, "test and tune & grudge racing" at the drag strip, track days, private road course rentals, and general hooligan street/hot rod cruising. I average 4k miles a year (i have other toys and a young family), tires last about two seasons, two oil changes a year..
I didn't buy a z06 to "build" it. I bought a z06 because GM engineering already did the heavy lifting, and all i need to do is keep it in good running condition, and address it's soft spots. Monitor valve guide wear, run the larger oil tank, upgrade the driver seat, ditch the run flat tires, and so on to start off. I also bought this car to drive and enjoy. In the past I've got carried away with mods, wasting thousands of dollars to make cars less fun, and less reliable.
I use my car for commuting, road trips, "test and tune & grudge racing" at the drag strip, track days, private road course rentals, and general hooligan street/hot rod cruising. I average 4k miles a year (i have other toys and a young family), tires last about two seasons, two oil changes a year..
I didn't buy a z06 to "build" it. I bought a z06 because GM engineering already did the heavy lifting, and all i need to do is keep it in good running condition, and address it's soft spots. Monitor valve guide wear, run the larger oil tank, upgrade the driver seat, ditch the run flat tires, and so on to start off. I also bought this car to drive and enjoy. In the past I've got carried away with mods, wasting thousands of dollars to make cars less fun, and less reliable.
i waste allot of money on this car, one regret is I wish I did it slower and in intervals but it was a drug
no0one718 has given you good advice. Our cars don't need much for the occasional track day driver. (tires, brakes, oiling system)
Many things will be a compromise for a street/strip/track car. And it is almost impossible to build a car that optimizes all of these things simultaneously. But there are some things you can do that will help one side and not necessarily hurt/impact the other side. Street and occasional drag strip/half-mile runs are not very hard on the motor and its components (except clutch and drivetrain). It is the endurance conditions of a race track where all hell breaks loose in the motor. The far more severe duty and drive cycle combined with the sustained higher heat and higher RPMs induces greatly accelerated wear on EVERYTHING. Most things will last 1/10th or even 1/100th of their normal, expected life. For example, on my C6Z race car I need new brake pads every two days. I need new tires every 4 days. I need new rotors every 8 days. And this is only the beginning. Valve springs, pistons, alternators, starters, clutches etc etc all wear down. I have two separate hour meters on my motor, each with 3 programmable service settings as well as total run hours that helps me keep track of when things are likely about to break.
I am heading to the race track this week and will be there for 5 days straight. Instructing, practicing and then racing. I do this every 2 weeks on average, and it takes me 1-2 days just to prepare. I bring extra brake pads, rotors, serpentine belts, tires, oil, fluids, tools and anything else that can fit in my truck/trailer. I fully expect that something will break/fail and all I can do is hope that it is something I can fix at the track and not ruin my fun. What you need is DURABILITY and RELIABILITY. Not MORE POWA. I won a 30 minute race at Watkins Glen a few months ago against 7 other cars, which included 700hp Viper ACR-Es, a Porsche Cup car, a Ferrari, two other Vettes etc all because my car was the most reliable. One of the Vettes overheated their brakes, the other one blew up. The Ferrari driver was slow/scared, the Porsche Cup car had nothing for me on the straights, one Viper broke down and the monster Viper ACR-E that was ahead of me literally ran himself out of gas. I passed him on the front straight at 150mph while he was in the pits getting more fuel. Every car had 600+whp except me, and I won.
Here are a few things you can consider:
Oiling system: Lingenfelter expanded dry sump tank: Adding oil capacity will help you on a race track. It ensures there is always enough oil available to mitigate starvation at high RPMS/cornering and more capacity assists in cooling. AVIAD tank insert: Stabilizes and deaerates the oil in the tank and helps resist the tendency for the oil to rise along the sides of the tank Improved Racing pan baffle: Better scavenging of oil in the pan as it encourages the oil to stay near the pick-up tube Katech Red oil pump: Increased scavenge and pressure capacity. Useful if you are using axle oiling lifters
Brakes
Carbotech XP10/XP8 or XP12/XP10
DBA Rotors
Sways
You should do nothing for now until you know what the car is doing or not doing on the track.
I use LG G1 sways with adjustable endlinks (giant, stiff sways)
Tires:
NT01 in OEM sizes (and can be driven on the street)
Aero:
C6Z suffers from front end lift at speed. Add a ZR1 splitter with reinforcement brace as a start. You don't need a wing.
That addresses your questions, and these mods are geared towards a road course (not a drag strip). This is not a comprehensive list though, and only a beginning. The best thing you can do though is get out there and practice, as seat time is the most important modification on a road course and where the bulk of your money should be spent. Just get the car reliable (brakes, oiling system and tires) and then pay for seat time.
For a drag strip just slap on the drag radials, point her straight and mash the pedal. Then wait an hour and do the same thing. Clutch will eventually slip, but that's about it at your power levels.
no0one718 has given you good advice. Our cars don't need much for the occasional track day driver. (tires, brakes, oiling system)
Many things will be a compromise for a street/strip/track car. And it is almost impossible to build a car that optimizes all of these things simultaneously. But there are some things you can do that will help one side and not necessarily hurt/impact the other side. Street and occasional drag strip/half-mile runs are not very hard on the motor and its components (except clutch and drivetrain). It is the endurance conditions of a race track where all hell breaks loose in the motor. The far more severe duty and drive cycle combined with the sustained higher heat and higher RPMs induces greatly accelerated wear on EVERYTHING. Most things will last 1/10th or even 1/100th of their normal, expected life. For example, on my C6Z race car I need new brake pads every two days. I need new tires every 4 days. I need new rotors every 8 days. And this is only the beginning. Valve springs, pistons, alternators, starters, clutches etc etc all wear down. I have two separate hour meters on my motor, each with 3 programmable service settings as well as total run hours that helps me keep track of when things are likely about to break.
I am heading to the race track this week and will be there for 5 days straight. Instructing, practicing and then racing. I do this every 2 weeks on average, and it takes me 1-2 days just to prepare. I bring extra brake pads, rotors, serpentine belts, tires, oil, fluids, tools and anything else that can fit in my truck/trailer. I fully expect that something will break/fail and all I can do is hope that it is something I can fix at the track and not ruin my fun. What you need is DURABILITY and RELIABILITY. Not MORE POWA. I won a 30 minute race at Watkins Glen a few months ago against 7 other cars, which included 700hp Viper ACR-Es, a Porsche Cup car, a Ferrari, two other Vettes etc all because my car was the most reliable. One of the Vettes overheated their brakes, the other one blew up. The Ferrari driver was slow/scared, the Porsche Cup car had nothing for me on the straights, one Viper broke down and the monster Viper ACR-E that was ahead of me literally ran himself out of gas. I passed him on the front straight at 150mph while he was in the pits getting more fuel. Every car had 600+whp except me, and I won.
Here are a few things you can consider:
Oiling system: Lingenfelter expanded dry sump tank: Adding oil capacity will help you on a race track. It ensures there is always enough oil available to mitigate starvation at high RPMS/cornering and more capacity assists in cooling. AVIAD tank insert: Stabilizes and deaerates the oil in the tank and helps resist the tendency for the oil to rise along the sides of the tank Improved Racing pan baffle: Better scavenging of oil in the pan as it encourages the oil to stay near the pick-up tube Katech Red oil pump: Increased scavenge and pressure capacity. Useful if you are using axle oiling lifters
Brakes
Carbotech XP10/XP8 or XP12/XP10
DBA Rotors
Sways
You should do nothing for now until you know what the car is doing or not doing on the track.
I use LG G1 sways with adjustable endlinks (giant, stiff sways)
Tires:
NT01 in OEM sizes (and can be driven on the street)
Aero:
C6Z suffers from front end lift at speed. Add a ZR1 splitter with reinforcement brace as a start. You don't need a wing.
That addresses your questions, and these mods are geared towards a road course (not a drag strip). This is not a comprehensive list though, and only a beginning. The best thing you can do though is get out there and practice, as seat time is the most important modification on a road course and where the bulk of your money should be spent. Just get the car reliable (brakes, oiling system and tires) and then pay for seat time.
For a drag strip just slap on the drag radials, point her straight and mash the pedal. Then wait an hour and do the same thing. Clutch will eventually slip, but that's about it at your power levels.
thabks moderth
what other cooling mods do you have or actually what are all your mods. Except engine mods engine cooling counts just not like a specific damn bad stuff what coils do you have and I know I知 just making sure I know what to get down the road
I have an extremely long list of mods. In any event, as far as for cooling:
Dewitts radiator
Setrab 65 row oil cooler with thermostat
Vented hood
Brake ducts routed from front bumper grille to rotor/spindle
I run LG G2 coilovers.
i got a dewitts radiator atleast I got one think I知 getting the track spec 3 vents on the hood and the brake ducts you make your self?? Thinking of removing my fog lights I never use them and make some contracption to shove air to the brakes...
did you change any bushings?? Control arms
anything worth changing on a car that gets beat on
I have spherical bearings(monoballs) as a replacement for the horrible rubber control arm bushings that deflect significantly under load. A must have for a race car. Not so much for a street car.
I fabricated my brake ducts myself. The stock ones are virtually useless. Mine go from the front of the car (grille) and are routed directly to the rotor vanes.
I have spherical bearings(monoballs) as a replacement for the horrible rubber control arm bushings that deflect significantly under load. A must have for a race car. Not so much for a street car.
I fabricated my brake ducts myself. The stock ones are virtually useless. Mine go from the front of the car (grille) and are routed directly to the rotor vanes.
I also believe if you do want to try for some NA power you can. I would be mindful of cam choice though. Fixed heads, headers, small cam or keep stock, Halltech w/Beehive/Vette Air Scoop and ported intake/TB should set you around 500-550 rwhp. It all depends on how much drivability you can stand to lose.
I also believe if you do want to try for some NA power you can. I would be mindful of cam choice though. Fixed heads, headers, small cam or keep stock, Halltech w/Beehive/Vette Air Scoop and ported intake/TB should set you around 500-550 rwhp. It all depends on how much drivability you can stand to lose.
had 606whp before my pistons popped. Looking to hit 630whp on e85 mustang dyno at 11:1 cam is btr4 same cam as last setup but had 1-7:8 and non ported mamo intake I want to do 2 inch mamo Intake e85 and my engine builders heads to try to hit 630+ goal is 650whp but I知 happy with that I知 actually happy with what ever long as the bitch rips
I took the front bumper cover off and attached 4" speaker ducts to the mounting face of the front grille. Then I ran the 4" hose to a set of modified hard plastic ducts and then 3" hose directly to a mounting bracket on the spindle that sends air into the rotor vanes.
I took the front bumper cover off and attached 4" speaker ducts to the mounting face of the front grille. Then I ran the 4" hose to a set of modified hard plastic ducts and then 3" hose directly to a mounting bracket on the spindle that sends air into the rotor vanes.
had 606whp before my pistons popped. Looking to hit 630whp on e85 mustang dyno at 11:1 cam is btr4 same cam as last setup but had 1-7:8 and non ported mamo intake I want to do 2 inch mamo Intake e85 and my engine builders heads to try to hit 630+ goal is 650whp but I知 happy with that I知 actually happy with what ever long as the bitch rips
Ah ok, I did not know your setup lol. That sounds awesome, drivability is usually what you determine you can handle.
07-15-2018, 12:02 AM
Ultimate Daily driver???? Maybe?
Every car had 600+whp except me, and I won.
