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Broke off caliper bleeder

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Old 07-15-2018, 12:05 PM
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ScottEwine
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Default Broke off caliper bleeder

I managed to rebuild three out of four calipers correctly yesterday, but on the fourth one I broke off one of the bleeders. Is there any trick to getting that thing out of there? Is there any place that I can send it that will do it reliably and cheaply?

Scott


Old 07-15-2018, 12:15 PM
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MelWff
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you cannt get a vise grip or 6 point socket/wrench on that?
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Old 07-15-2018, 12:19 PM
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typhoon92
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Drill it out very carefully. Then use a easy out and after applying heat to the caliper as long as your installing new seals
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Old 07-15-2018, 03:03 PM
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After consideration, a younger me would have spent about 6 hours trying to get it out and eventually screw it up, an older, wiser me will take it to autozone and swap it out for a new one for $64.99.

Does anybody know if the new ones have the new style pistons and o-rings. Should I run the replacement as is or pull it apart and rebuild it with the newer style kit!

Thanks,

Scott
Old 07-15-2018, 03:07 PM
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7T1vette
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If you have an arc welder, you could tack-weld a rod with 90* bend to the end of that bleeder, then just back it out. I know you bought another caliper, but thought others might want to know.
Old 07-15-2018, 04:56 PM
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Peterbuilt
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Originally Posted by ScottEwine
After consideration, a younger me would have spent about 6 hours trying to get it out and eventually screw it up, an older, wiser me will take it to autozone and swap it out for a new one for $64.99.

Does anybody know if the new ones have the new style pistons and o-rings. Should I run the replacement as is or pull it apart and rebuild it with the newer style kit!

Thanks,

Scott
The Autozone calipers will have lip seals.
What seals did you install on the first three?
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ScottEwine (07-15-2018)
Old 07-15-2018, 06:36 PM
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carriljc
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I agree with your evaluation; one reason I might try to save the caliper is because of reports of less-than-adequate rebuilds which leak....and if yours was actually good.... then, since I have a welder that I might try welding a nut on there to unscrew it.

Originally Posted by ScottEwine
After consideration, a younger me would have spent about 6 hours trying to get it out and eventually screw it up, an older, wiser me will take it to autozone and swap it out for a new one for $64.99.

Does anybody know if the new ones have the new style pistons and o-rings. Should I run the replacement as is or pull it apart and rebuild it with the newer style kit!

Thanks,

Scott
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ScottEwine (07-15-2018)
Old 07-15-2018, 07:39 PM
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ScottEwine
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Originally Posted by Peterbuilt
The Autozone calipers will have lip seals.
What seals did you install on the first three?
Thanks. I put the nice newer designed fat o-rings on the other three and have the set for the one I FUBARed, so I will probably pull it apart and replace the lip seals on the Autozone unit.

Scott
Old 07-15-2018, 07:46 PM
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Scottd
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Originally Posted by ScottEwine
After consideration, a younger me would have spent about 6 hours trying to get it out and eventually screw it up, an older, wiser me will take it to autozone and swap it out for a new one for $64.99.
Scott
Its funny how age does that to us. Unless you have unlimited time (and the money to repair self induced screw ups) I find that just buying a new one is best nowadays. I totally admire the guys who take the time to rebuild the small stuff like steering gear boxes and brake calipers, but Im just at a point where Id rather spend a small amount more for a rebuild from a box store.

Old 07-15-2018, 08:03 PM
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joewill
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the autozone caliper also may or may not have stainless steel bore sleeves...
Old 07-16-2018, 04:05 PM
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80-Vette
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Originally Posted by joewill
the autozone caliper also may or may not have stainless steel bore sleeves...
Are you sure, I would think the sleeves would have been replaced with SS ones. After all it is a rebuilt caliper.
Old 07-16-2018, 04:29 PM
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ScottEwine
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Originally Posted by 80-Vette
Are you sure, I would think the sleeves would have been replaced with SS ones. After all it is a rebuilt caliper.
That is kind of what I was thinking. Not sure if they still make the castings anymore but you would think if they did they would know that if they are not sleeved they will soon be leaking. The calipers I pulled of my '69 25+ years ago were sleeved and I just assumed any car that was on the road nowadays would have them and thus any cores would as well.
Old 07-16-2018, 05:00 PM
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GTR1999
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Just to relate a story about a place that was once and maybe still is supplying chain stores, Let's say his name is say, Carl and is from various addresses in FL. Buyer beware as some calipers sold as rebuilt were nothing more then worn out cores repainted. Originally the calipers were just bored out cast iron, SS sleeving caught on in the late 70's there were plenty of shops with a Bridgeport mill rebuilding them at the time. Few are left.
Old 07-16-2018, 05:15 PM
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v2racing
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Originally Posted by GTR1999
Just to relate a story about a place that was once and maybe still is supplying chain stores, Let's say his name is say, Carl and is from various addresses in FL. Buyer beware as some calipers sold as rebuilt were nothing more then worn out cores repainted. Originally the calipers were just bored out cast iron, SS sleeving caught on in the late 70's there were plenty of shops with a Bridgeport mill rebuilding them at the time. Few are left.
I bought "rebuilt" calipers for my car last fall from O'Riley's. It took 4 tries before getting good calipers with SS sleeves. The others were just sand blasted rusted up old junk. Pitting doesn't even start to describe them. Very bad. The store manager was great though and let me carefully pull the seal to check them.

Mike
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Old 07-16-2018, 09:56 PM
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stainless steel sleeving is an aftermarket solution to one of the design problems of c3 brakes.

a rebuild should mean fresh seals and cleaned up pistons on a spotless bore wall that has been cleaned up and sanded down with various grits of paper and emory cloth.

no reason that the chinese rebuild houses would resleeve a bore unless they had to. and then who knows if it would be stainless steel.

only the aftermarket suppliers that advertise stainless steel sleeving would guarantee that
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ScottEwine (07-17-2018)
Old 07-17-2018, 09:17 AM
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Originally Posted by joewill
stainless steel sleeving is an aftermarket solution to one of the design problems of c3 brakes.

a rebuild should mean fresh seals and cleaned up pistons on a spotless bore wall that has been cleaned up and sanded down with various grits of paper and emory cloth.

no reason that the chinese rebuild houses would resleeve a bore unless they had to. and then who knows if it would be stainless steel.

only the aftermarket suppliers that advertise stainless steel sleeving would guarantee that
I will pull of a seal and report back to you!
Old 07-17-2018, 06:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Scottd
Its funny how age does that to us. Unless you have unlimited time (and the money to repair self induced screw ups) I find that just buying a new one is best nowadays. I totally admire the guys who take the time to rebuild the small stuff like steering gear boxes and brake calipers, but Im just at a point where Id rather spend a small amount more for a rebuild from a box store.
Amen to that !

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Old 07-17-2018, 11:00 PM
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BLUE1972
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I would heat it with a MICRO torch and hit it with FREEZE OFF, then use an easy out.

Last case drill it and re tap it.

Sometimes it's the challenge to do the repair... just my thought...
Old 07-18-2018, 07:12 AM
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2mnyvets
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Originally Posted by BLUE1972
I would heat it with a MICRO torch and hit it with FREEZE OFF, then use an easy out.

Last case drill it and re tap it.

Sometimes it's the challenge to do the repair... just my thought...
I do that routinely,....but I don't use a MICRO torch. If you can get it hot enough, it will be out within 5 minutes.I also put never seize on the threads ONLY. Keep it off the sealing taper and you will never have this problem again.

Last edited by 2mnyvets; 07-18-2018 at 07:15 AM.
Old 07-18-2018, 07:24 AM
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Hammerhead Fred
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Originally Posted by BLUE1972
I would heat it with a MICRO torch and hit it with FREEZE OFF, then use an easy out.

Last case drill it and re tap it.

Sometimes it's the challenge to do the repair... just my thought...
You can't just drill and re-tap the bleeder threads as the bottom of the hole has a seat for the bleeder screw to seal against.


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