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Installing Procharger - Spark plugs?

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Old 07-15-2018, 04:28 PM
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Nuclearranger
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Default Installing Procharger - Spark plugs?

I am working through the Procharger install on my 16' Z51. Are the following plugs the right ones to get?

Amazon Amazon

Can I get them cheaper somewhere?

Is there a good write-up on how to change the plugs? The Procharger install guide is simply "change the plugs"
Old 07-15-2018, 06:07 PM
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turbo87
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Originally Posted by Nuclearranger
I am working through the Procharger install on my 16' Z51. Are the following plugs the right ones to get?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...KIKX0DER&psc=1

Can I get them cheaper somewhere?

Is there a good write-up on how to change the plugs? The Procharger install guide is simply "change the plugs"
Drivers side is not bad,pass side you have to take the fuse box apart not bad. That was for my 14.
Old 07-15-2018, 06:34 PM
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black_c7
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Originally Posted by turbo87
Drivers side is not bad,pass side you have to take the fuse box apart not bad. That was for my 14.
Not really necessary to remove fuse box, i always do it while its on there,

when you do it just do it while the car is cold
Old 07-15-2018, 07:34 PM
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Nuclearranger
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Originally Posted by black_c7


Not really necessary to remove fuse box, i always do it while its on there,

when you do it just do it while the car is cold
Do I need any special tools? Are the listed plugs the correct ones?

Last edited by Nuclearranger; 07-15-2018 at 07:34 PM.
Old 07-15-2018, 08:31 PM
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kc stingray
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plugs are correct. work great in my 2016 with a procharger p1x
Old 07-15-2018, 08:32 PM
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Originally Posted by kc stingray
plugs are correct. work great in my 2016 with a procharger p1x
Did you need to switch anything else? Or just buy 8 on amazon and slap them in?
Old 07-15-2018, 10:24 PM
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solotronics
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Originally Posted by Nuclearranger
Did you need to switch anything else? Or just buy 8 on amazon and slap them in?
It would be a good idea to double check the gap on all of the new plugs.

https://www.boschsparkplugs.net/lear...i-gap-my-plugs
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Old 07-15-2018, 10:31 PM
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Originally Posted by solotronics
It would be a good idea to double check the gap on all of the new plugs.

https://www.boschsparkplugs.net/lear...i-gap-my-plugs
I thought gaping the NGK 6510 iridium was not recommended due to the material?
Old 07-15-2018, 10:51 PM
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What if I don't change the plugs at all, can the stock C7 plugs handle the 7PSI procharger? Why are they so "highly recommended" but not required?
Old 07-15-2018, 11:09 PM
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kc stingray
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the ngk plug is a step colder. boost equals heat. anytime forced induction or nitrous is added colder plugs are a must.

Last edited by kc stingray; 07-16-2018 at 09:06 PM.
Old 07-16-2018, 03:01 AM
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only9balls
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Originally Posted by Nuclearranger
I thought gaping the NGK 6510 iridium was not recommended due to the material?
You should always gap the plugs, especially if you are running forced induction. The recommendation to not gap Iridium is because the element is very thin and fragile, and many people will shove a feeler gauge in there forcefully (like you can with normal plugs) and break off the element. If you use extreme care with the feeler gauge, and not use any force to check the gap, it will be fine, just take your time and don't use any force on the gauge.

For 7lbs. of boost on a stock motor, I would go with .035" of gap, that is what I am currently running on my 2016 with an A&A kit that is running 7.8 lbs. and the same plugs, and it runs perfect. As the boost levels increase, you would want to decrease the gap, but .035" is about right for that application.

When I changed mine, I removed the fuse box assembly, it was super easy, and made it much easier to get to the plugs on the passenger side, there is a section about how to remove it in this write-up for engine removal: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1594431132

I bought a pair of these boot removal pliers that made the job a ton easier as well:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MXSBUWT/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MXSBUWT/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Old 07-16-2018, 07:08 AM
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Alright... the 3 week wait is over for the Ranger... and for those of us enjoying this vicariously! In for the results and especially interested in how the car manages heat after install.
Old 07-16-2018, 07:38 AM
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Originally Posted by only9balls
You should always gap the plugs, especially if you are running forced induction. The recommendation to not gap Iridium is because the element is very thin and fragile, and many people will shove a feeler gauge in there forcefully (like you can with normal plugs) and break off the element. If you use extreme care with the feeler gauge, and not use any force to check the gap, it will be fine, just take your time and don't use any force on the gauge.

For 7lbs. of boost on a stock motor, I would go with .035" of gap, that is what I am currently running on my 2016 with an A&A kit that is running 7.8 lbs. and the same plugs, and it runs perfect. As the boost levels increase, you would want to decrease the gap, but .035" is about right for that application.

When I changed mine, I removed the fuse box assembly, it was super easy, and made it much easier to get to the plugs on the passenger side, there is a section about how to remove it in this write-up for engine removal: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1594431132

I bought a pair of these boot removal pliers that made the job a ton easier as well: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Thanks, I got the tool as well as a 'wire' based gapper.

Tuesday is going to be busy!
Old 07-16-2018, 07:48 AM
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Originally Posted by raylo
Alright... the 3 week wait is over for the Ranger... and for those of us enjoying this vicariously! In for the results and especially interested in how the car manages heat after install.
Ha! Almost, the head unit is coming on Tuesday (tomorrow) but I need to sign for it and will not be home?

The joys of living in reality!


I found the instructions online ahead of schedule, so I've spent 5 hours just taking it apart. Next step is the 'dreaded' crank bolt, but I don't own a 24mm socket, so that comes on Tuesday also!
Old 07-16-2018, 08:19 AM
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Yes, I hate when that happens. If it is UPS you might see if they have one of their new drop box facilities that you can redirect the shipment to. We have one in our grocery store about a half mile away... you go and retrieve your package by punching a code into the box. Used to be quite a schlep to the depot after work. Ugggghhhh.

The old crank bolt... Last one I removed wasn't that bad on my old LT1 Camaro. But I have a friend replacing his timing belt on a Honda Del Sol who is struggling mightily with his. My air IR 1/2" impact tool didn't work so he is moving on to plan B.

Originally Posted by Nuclearranger
Ha! Almost, the head unit is coming on Tuesday (tomorrow) but I need to sign for it and will not be home?

The joys of living in reality!


I found the instructions online ahead of schedule, so I've spent 5 hours just taking it apart. Next step is the 'dreaded' crank bolt, but I don't own a 24mm socket, so that comes on Tuesday also!

Last edited by raylo; 07-16-2018 at 08:28 AM.
Old 07-16-2018, 09:40 AM
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Originally Posted by raylo
Yes, I hate when that happens. If it is UPS you might see if they have one of their new drop box facilities that you can redirect the shipment to. We have one in our grocery store about a half mile away... you go and retrieve your package by punching a code into the box. Used to be quite a schlep to the depot after work. Ugggghhhh.

The old crank bolt... Last one I removed wasn't that bad on my old LT1 Camaro. But I have a friend replacing his timing belt on a Honda Del Sol who is struggling mightily with his. My air IR 1/2" impact tool didn't work so he is moving on to plan B.
fedex. I think I will call them and see what's up.

I don't even own an impact wrench, I have a 3ft (maybe longer?) Torque wrench that I use for tough stuff as a breaker bar (not sure if this wrecks the wrench or not? Seems fine so far!)

I'm just going to slap that on it and pull!
Old 07-16-2018, 09:52 AM
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raylo
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I wouldn’t use the torque wrench as a breaker bar. The plain breaker bars are cheap. Plus easy to slip an iron or copper pipe cheater on the end for “more power “!

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Old 07-16-2018, 11:43 AM
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only9balls
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Originally Posted by Nuclearranger
fedex. I think I will call them and see what's up.

I don't even own an impact wrench, I have a 3ft (maybe longer?) Torque wrench that I use for tough stuff as a breaker bar (not sure if this wrecks the wrench or not? Seems fine so far!)

I'm just going to slap that on it and pull!
I used a 1/2" air impact, and it made easy work of it. Get one for your garage, they last forever and are quite useful for removing wheels quickly.
Old 07-17-2018, 10:23 AM
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Originally Posted by only9balls
I used a 1/2" air impact, and it made easy work of it. Get one for your garage, they last forever and are quite useful for removing wheels quickly.
What is a good brand / setup

Can i just grab one at lowes or am I going to get taken on price? I assume I need a good compressor ect too?
Old 07-17-2018, 10:34 AM
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raylo
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No don’t get a cheap one. Get a quality brand like Ingeraol Rand. Yes you need a compressor that will do the tools rated CFM. If not one of the big electric impacts from Makita etc might also work

Last edited by raylo; 07-17-2018 at 10:35 AM.


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