Installing Procharger - Spark plugs?
#1
Installing Procharger - Spark plugs?
I am working through the Procharger install on my 16' Z51. Are the following plugs the right ones to get?
Can I get them cheaper somewhere?
Is there a good write-up on how to change the plugs? The Procharger install guide is simply "change the plugs"
Can I get them cheaper somewhere?
Is there a good write-up on how to change the plugs? The Procharger install guide is simply "change the plugs"
#2
Racer
I am working through the Procharger install on my 16' Z51. Are the following plugs the right ones to get?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...KIKX0DER&psc=1
Can I get them cheaper somewhere?
Is there a good write-up on how to change the plugs? The Procharger install guide is simply "change the plugs"
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...KIKX0DER&psc=1
Can I get them cheaper somewhere?
Is there a good write-up on how to change the plugs? The Procharger install guide is simply "change the plugs"
#3
Burning Brakes
#4
#6
#7
Instructor
https://www.boschsparkplugs.net/lear...i-gap-my-plugs
The following users liked this post:
CorvetteBrent (02-05-2024)
#8
It would be a good idea to double check the gap on all of the new plugs.
https://www.boschsparkplugs.net/lear...i-gap-my-plugs
https://www.boschsparkplugs.net/lear...i-gap-my-plugs
#10
Racer
the ngk plug is a step colder. boost equals heat. anytime forced induction or nitrous is added colder plugs are a must.
Last edited by kc stingray; 07-16-2018 at 09:06 PM.
#11
For 7lbs. of boost on a stock motor, I would go with .035" of gap, that is what I am currently running on my 2016 with an A&A kit that is running 7.8 lbs. and the same plugs, and it runs perfect. As the boost levels increase, you would want to decrease the gap, but .035" is about right for that application.
When I changed mine, I removed the fuse box assembly, it was super easy, and made it much easier to get to the plugs on the passenger side, there is a section about how to remove it in this write-up for engine removal: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1594431132
I bought a pair of these boot removal pliers that made the job a ton easier as well:
#13
You should always gap the plugs, especially if you are running forced induction. The recommendation to not gap Iridium is because the element is very thin and fragile, and many people will shove a feeler gauge in there forcefully (like you can with normal plugs) and break off the element. If you use extreme care with the feeler gauge, and not use any force to check the gap, it will be fine, just take your time and don't use any force on the gauge.
For 7lbs. of boost on a stock motor, I would go with .035" of gap, that is what I am currently running on my 2016 with an A&A kit that is running 7.8 lbs. and the same plugs, and it runs perfect. As the boost levels increase, you would want to decrease the gap, but .035" is about right for that application.
When I changed mine, I removed the fuse box assembly, it was super easy, and made it much easier to get to the plugs on the passenger side, there is a section about how to remove it in this write-up for engine removal: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1594431132
I bought a pair of these boot removal pliers that made the job a ton easier as well: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
For 7lbs. of boost on a stock motor, I would go with .035" of gap, that is what I am currently running on my 2016 with an A&A kit that is running 7.8 lbs. and the same plugs, and it runs perfect. As the boost levels increase, you would want to decrease the gap, but .035" is about right for that application.
When I changed mine, I removed the fuse box assembly, it was super easy, and made it much easier to get to the plugs on the passenger side, there is a section about how to remove it in this write-up for engine removal: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1594431132
I bought a pair of these boot removal pliers that made the job a ton easier as well: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Tuesday is going to be busy!
#14
The joys of living in reality!
I found the instructions online ahead of schedule, so I've spent 5 hours just taking it apart. Next step is the 'dreaded' crank bolt, but I don't own a 24mm socket, so that comes on Tuesday also!
#15
Drifting
Yes, I hate when that happens. If it is UPS you might see if they have one of their new drop box facilities that you can redirect the shipment to. We have one in our grocery store about a half mile away... you go and retrieve your package by punching a code into the box. Used to be quite a schlep to the depot after work. Ugggghhhh.
The old crank bolt... Last one I removed wasn't that bad on my old LT1 Camaro. But I have a friend replacing his timing belt on a Honda Del Sol who is struggling mightily with his. My air IR 1/2" impact tool didn't work so he is moving on to plan B.
The old crank bolt... Last one I removed wasn't that bad on my old LT1 Camaro. But I have a friend replacing his timing belt on a Honda Del Sol who is struggling mightily with his. My air IR 1/2" impact tool didn't work so he is moving on to plan B.
Ha! Almost, the head unit is coming on Tuesday (tomorrow) but I need to sign for it and will not be home?
The joys of living in reality!
I found the instructions online ahead of schedule, so I've spent 5 hours just taking it apart. Next step is the 'dreaded' crank bolt, but I don't own a 24mm socket, so that comes on Tuesday also!
The joys of living in reality!
I found the instructions online ahead of schedule, so I've spent 5 hours just taking it apart. Next step is the 'dreaded' crank bolt, but I don't own a 24mm socket, so that comes on Tuesday also!
Last edited by raylo; 07-16-2018 at 08:28 AM.
#16
Yes, I hate when that happens. If it is UPS you might see if they have one of their new drop box facilities that you can redirect the shipment to. We have one in our grocery store about a half mile away... you go and retrieve your package by punching a code into the box. Used to be quite a schlep to the depot after work. Ugggghhhh.
The old crank bolt... Last one I removed wasn't that bad on my old LT1 Camaro. But I have a friend replacing his timing belt on a Honda Del Sol who is struggling mightily with his. My air IR 1/2" impact tool didn't work so he is moving on to plan B.
The old crank bolt... Last one I removed wasn't that bad on my old LT1 Camaro. But I have a friend replacing his timing belt on a Honda Del Sol who is struggling mightily with his. My air IR 1/2" impact tool didn't work so he is moving on to plan B.
I don't even own an impact wrench, I have a 3ft (maybe longer?) Torque wrench that I use for tough stuff as a breaker bar (not sure if this wrecks the wrench or not? Seems fine so far!)
I'm just going to slap that on it and pull!
#18
fedex. I think I will call them and see what's up.
I don't even own an impact wrench, I have a 3ft (maybe longer?) Torque wrench that I use for tough stuff as a breaker bar (not sure if this wrecks the wrench or not? Seems fine so far!)
I'm just going to slap that on it and pull!
I don't even own an impact wrench, I have a 3ft (maybe longer?) Torque wrench that I use for tough stuff as a breaker bar (not sure if this wrecks the wrench or not? Seems fine so far!)
I'm just going to slap that on it and pull!
#19
Can i just grab one at lowes or am I going to get taken on price? I assume I need a good compressor ect too?
#20
Drifting
No don’t get a cheap one. Get a quality brand like Ingeraol Rand. Yes you need a compressor that will do the tools rated CFM. If not one of the big electric impacts from Makita etc might also work
Last edited by raylo; 07-17-2018 at 10:35 AM.