[Z06] How much power is 10% underdrive Balancer worth? What brand to get?
07-17-2018, 06:30 AM
#1
How much power is 10% underdrive Balancer worth? What brand to get?
I was just curious how much power is a 10% underdrive balancer worth and what brand is good? I am in the process of building 468ci Ls7 n/a and was wanting to know how much power do they actually give you and is there any pros and cons. Thank you for anyone so
07-17-2018, 08:01 AM
#2
Worth 5-10 whp. Only con would be a potentially low voltage scenario in idle. However being you have a serious build and will need to raise the idle anyway that’s not a concern. I’ve run an ati underdrive on all of my cars, good mod for when you Have everything already apart
07-17-2018, 10:31 AM
#4
Drifting
Probably not an issue if you live somewhere cooler (and/or drier).
07-17-2018, 10:55 AM
#5
Le Mans Master
Maybe it was my imagination, but after having an underdrive pulley installed on my heads & cam C5, I felt the air conditioner didn't blow as hard or cold. I live in Houston and you need air conditioning 12 months out of the year. After the experience I had, I decided I'd never install another underdrive pulley.
Probably not an issue if you live somewhere cooler (and/or drier).
Probably not an issue if you live somewhere cooler (and/or drier).
07-17-2018, 11:23 AM
#6
I live in Dallas so I need cold air to. Lol
07-17-2018, 11:27 AM
#7
Racer
I had 10 under ATI on my 06 GTO and had no issues.
I am going with Dayco Powerbond one when my cam comes out. Just to try a different brand.
Still undecided if I’ll go the 10 under or not tho for My Z
Powerbond harmonic balancer
PBO81503SS10
PB1503SS
The PowerBond race series brings the advantages of bonded balancers to high revving and high horsepower street/race applications where an SFI approved balancer is required. PowerBond Race Series balancers have been tested beyond 21,000 RPM without failure.
Every PowerBond race series balancer features a precision CNC machined AISI 1045 forged steel hub bonded to an equally strong steel inertia ring. Advanced design mean that race series balancers are very light for an all steel product. In most cases they are only marginally heavier than the original cast iron balancer and generally much lighter than other all steel balancers on the market. The steel inertia ring on the race series models is positively protected against forward and backward movement. PowerBond uses our Race Series high pressure, low cure that features a natural rubber developed in our laboratory.
Every model has easy to read computer etched timing marks. All PowerBond race series balancers meet SFI specification 1
I am going with Dayco Powerbond one when my cam comes out. Just to try a different brand.
Still undecided if I’ll go the 10 under or not tho for My Z
Powerbond harmonic balancer
PBO81503SS10
PB1503SS
The PowerBond race series brings the advantages of bonded balancers to high revving and high horsepower street/race applications where an SFI approved balancer is required. PowerBond Race Series balancers have been tested beyond 21,000 RPM without failure.
Every PowerBond race series balancer features a precision CNC machined AISI 1045 forged steel hub bonded to an equally strong steel inertia ring. Advanced design mean that race series balancers are very light for an all steel product. In most cases they are only marginally heavier than the original cast iron balancer and generally much lighter than other all steel balancers on the market. The steel inertia ring on the race series models is positively protected against forward and backward movement. PowerBond uses our Race Series high pressure, low cure that features a natural rubber developed in our laboratory.
Every model has easy to read computer etched timing marks. All PowerBond race series balancers meet SFI specification 1
07-17-2018, 12:15 PM
#8
I live in Phoenix, AZ so the issues raised by your Texas counterparts is valid here too. My opinion, not worth the investment for two big reasons for me....
1) accessories spinning slower at idle - I know that some feel that the increased idle that comes as a byproduct of doing a cam cancels out the slower accessory spinning, but in my hot environments I need my water pump and a/c working at maximum efficiency at idle or very low RPM's in traffic, where the minimal airflow thru the condenser and radiator really are problematic.
2) alternator output - again, with how finicky and dependent our cars are with electrical loads and stable power output demanded by all the electrical subsystems present in our cars, unless you put a higher output alternator on the car that can supply sufficient power at the lower rotational speeds at idle, you'll suffer. This includes the blower motor for your a/c system...not enough power to run the blower on high so the air doesn't blow out the the register like it should.
To me, not worth the saving of 5-10 HP via minimizing the parasitic losses from the accessories.
1) accessories spinning slower at idle - I know that some feel that the increased idle that comes as a byproduct of doing a cam cancels out the slower accessory spinning, but in my hot environments I need my water pump and a/c working at maximum efficiency at idle or very low RPM's in traffic, where the minimal airflow thru the condenser and radiator really are problematic.
2) alternator output - again, with how finicky and dependent our cars are with electrical loads and stable power output demanded by all the electrical subsystems present in our cars, unless you put a higher output alternator on the car that can supply sufficient power at the lower rotational speeds at idle, you'll suffer. This includes the blower motor for your a/c system...not enough power to run the blower on high so the air doesn't blow out the the register like it should.
To me, not worth the saving of 5-10 HP via minimizing the parasitic losses from the accessories.
Last edited by FNBADAZ06; 07-17-2018 at 12:16 PM.
07-17-2018, 12:17 PM
#9
I live in Phoenix, AZ so the issues raised by your Texas counterparts is valid here too. My opinion, not worth the investment for two big reasons for me....
1) accessories spinning slower at idle - I know that some feel that the increased idle that comes as a byproduct of doing a cam cancels out the slower accessory spinning, but in my hot environments I need my water pump and a/c working at maximum efficiency at idle or very low RPM's in traffic, where the minimal airflow thru the condenser and radiator really are problematic.
2) alternator output - again, with how finicky and dependent our cars are with electrical loads and stable power output demanded by all the electrical subsystems present in our cars, unless you put a higher output alternator on the car that can supply sufficient power at the lower rotational speeds at idle, you'll suffer. This includes the blower motor for your a/c system...not enough power to run the blower on high so the air doesn't blow out the the register like it should.
To me, not worth the saving of 5-10 HP via minimizing the parasitic losses from the accessories.
1) accessories spinning slower at idle - I know that some feel that the increased idle that comes as a byproduct of doing a cam cancels out the slower accessory spinning, but in my hot environments I need my water pump and a/c working at maximum efficiency at idle or very low RPM's in traffic, where the minimal airflow thru the condenser and radiator really are problematic.
2) alternator output - again, with how finicky and dependent our cars are with electrical loads and stable power output demanded by all the electrical subsystems present in our cars, unless you put a higher output alternator on the car that can supply sufficient power at the lower rotational speeds at idle, you'll suffer. This includes the blower motor for your a/c system...not enough power to run the blower on high so the air doesn't blow out the the register like it should.
To me, not worth the saving of 5-10 HP via minimizing the parasitic losses from the accessories.
07-17-2018, 12:19 PM
#10
ATI underdrive does not underdrive the ac at all since that portion of the pulley is the same size... and again raising the idle even 100 rpm cancels out any water pump loss or voltage loss at idle. its free hp if youre swapping the stock balancer which you should be doing anyway
07-17-2018, 12:27 PM
#11
Drifting
Haha, funny, (before reading this thread) I was just telling my wife this morning how much better the air in my Z06 is than in her Porsche SUV. No comparison.
07-17-2018, 12:29 PM
#12
Drifting
ATI underdrive does not underdrive the ac at all since that portion of the pulley is the same size... and again raising the idle even 100 rpm cancels out any water pump loss or voltage loss at idle. its free hp if youre swapping the stock balancer which you should be doing anyway
07-17-2018, 02:49 PM
#14
No it doesn’t affect the compressor with na ATI as I just stated. And it should not effect the blower if you raise the idle like you would do anyway with a cam.....
07-17-2018, 04:49 PM
#15
Drifting
.
07-17-2018, 05:39 PM
#16
I had 10 under ATI on my 06 GTO and had no issues.
I am going with Dayco Powerbond one when my cam comes out. Just to try a different brand.
Still undecided if I’ll go the 10 under or not tho for My Z
Powerbond harmonic balancer
PBO81503SS10
PB1503SS
The PowerBond race series brings the advantages of bonded balancers to high revving and high horsepower street/race applications where an SFI approved balancer is required. PowerBond Race Series balancers have been tested beyond 21,000 RPM without failure.
Every PowerBond race series balancer features a precision CNC machined AISI 1045 forged steel hub bonded to an equally strong steel inertia ring. Advanced design mean that race series balancers are very light for an all steel product. In most cases they are only marginally heavier than the original cast iron balancer and generally much lighter than other all steel balancers on the market. The steel inertia ring on the race series models is positively protected against forward and backward movement. PowerBond uses our Race Series high pressure, low cure that features a natural rubber developed in our laboratory.
Every model has easy to read computer etched timing marks. All PowerBond race series balancers meet SFI specification 1
I am going with Dayco Powerbond one when my cam comes out. Just to try a different brand.
Still undecided if I’ll go the 10 under or not tho for My Z
Powerbond harmonic balancer
PBO81503SS10
PB1503SS
The PowerBond race series brings the advantages of bonded balancers to high revving and high horsepower street/race applications where an SFI approved balancer is required. PowerBond Race Series balancers have been tested beyond 21,000 RPM without failure.
Every PowerBond race series balancer features a precision CNC machined AISI 1045 forged steel hub bonded to an equally strong steel inertia ring. Advanced design mean that race series balancers are very light for an all steel product. In most cases they are only marginally heavier than the original cast iron balancer and generally much lighter than other all steel balancers on the market. The steel inertia ring on the race series models is positively protected against forward and backward movement. PowerBond uses our Race Series high pressure, low cure that features a natural rubber developed in our laboratory.
Every model has easy to read computer etched timing marks. All PowerBond race series balancers meet SFI specification 1
Just buy the ATI 10% underdrive and be done with it.
Last edited by lamboworld; 07-17-2018 at 05:40 PM.