C1 & C2 Corvettes General C1 Corvette & C2 Corvette Discussion, Technical Info, Performance Upgrades, Project Builds, Restorations

[C2] 1965 Valve Covers

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 07-18-2018, 09:58 PM
  #1  
jsans
Pro
Thread Starter
 
jsans's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jul 2018
Location: Illinois
Posts: 604
Received 65 Likes on 38 Posts
Default 1965 Valve Covers

Hello everyone, my first post on this forum.

I own a 1965 convertible with the original 327 engine on a stand that I would ultimately like to rebuild and reinstall. Question... I notice some engines have orange valve covers while others have the grey cast metal covers. How can I tell which one is correct for my car to make it look original? Was it the varying horsepower that dictated which valve covers were installed on an engine back then? The same question may apply to the air filter housing in terms of whether it came with a double snorkel or not.

The pictures I found online show both configurations with both having 350HP labels. Maybe they were incorrectly applied to both.



Thanks for your help,
-John

Last edited by jsans; 07-18-2018 at 10:03 PM.
Old 07-18-2018, 10:05 PM
  #2  
Powershift
Race Director
 
Powershift's Avatar
 
Member Since: Apr 2005
Location: Luling Louisiana
Posts: 10,463
Received 1,681 Likes on 1,307 Posts

Default

Look at the stamped engine pad at the front right side of the engine. Post up the numbers and letters you see. That will determine what your engine was initially built as (horsepower etc) which will then determine what air cleaner and valve covers it originally had.

But from a practical standpoint, you can simply install what you want and what looks good to you.

Larry
Old 07-18-2018, 10:06 PM
  #3  
JohnZ
Team Owner

Support Corvetteforum!
 
JohnZ's Avatar
 
Member Since: Oct 2000
Location: Washington Michigan
Posts: 38,899
Received 1,856 Likes on 1,099 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by jsans
Hello everyone, my first post on this forum.

I own a 1965 convertible with the original engine on a stand that I would ultimately like to rebuild and reinstall. Question... I notice some engines have orange valve covers while others have the grey cast metal covers. How can I tell which one is correct for my car to make it look original? Was it the varying horsepower that dictated which valve covers were installed on an engine back then? The same question may apply to the air filter housing in terms of whether it came with a double snorkel or not.

The pictures I found online show both configurations with both having 350HP labels. Maybe they were incorrectly applied to both.



Thanks for your help,
-John
The '65 300hp engine (top photo) used a cast-iron intake manifold with a Carter AFB carburetor, dual-snorkel air cleaner and orange-painted stamped steel valve covers; the 350hp engine (bottom photo) used an aluminum intake manifold with a Holley carburetor, the no-snorkel heavy-gauge chrome air cleaner and finned cast aluminum valve covers.
The following users liked this post:
TCKT B8 (07-20-2018)
Old 07-18-2018, 10:07 PM
  #4  
65GGvert
Team Owner
 
65GGvert's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jul 2006
Location: Kannapolis NC
Posts: 20,571
Received 3,217 Likes on 2,301 Posts

Default

The first picture is correct for 300 hp and less in 65, the second picture is correct for 350 hp and up. Breathers and valve covers are correct in both pictures for the engines as marked by hp stickers.
Old 07-18-2018, 10:14 PM
  #5  
jsans
Pro
Thread Starter
 
jsans's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jul 2018
Location: Illinois
Posts: 604
Received 65 Likes on 38 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Powershift
Look at the stamped engine pad at the front right side of the engine. Post up the numbers and letters you see. That will determine what your engine was initially built as (horsepower etc) which will then determine what air cleaner and valve covers it originally had.

But from a practical standpoint, you can simply install what you want and what looks good to you.

Larry
Larry, thanks. I will post the numbers. Is there a guide somewhere online?
Old 07-18-2018, 10:36 PM
  #6  
65GGvert
Team Owner
 
65GGvert's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jul 2006
Location: Kannapolis NC
Posts: 20,571
Received 3,217 Likes on 2,301 Posts

Default

The last two letters on your engine stamp pad, just after F and four digits for the date (example 0317) will tell you.


Example: F0317HT would be a 350 hp with Holley, hydraulic lifters built Mar 17th.
The numbers to the left of that on the stamp pad would be a partial vin, starting with a 5 for 65.... Example 5106778 would be a 65 engine for car with vin ending in S106778 (that's an S, not a 5 in the vin, but it's a 5 on the stamp pad for the year.


HE .. 327...250 ..WCFB 1x4BC & ManualTrans.
HF .. 327...300 ..AFB Ix4BC & ManualTrans.
HG .. 327..375 .. FI, Hi-Lift Cam & 4-Speed
HH .. 327..365 . Holley 1x4BC, Mech. Lifters, 4-Speed
HI ... 327 ..250 .WCFB 1x4BC, A/C & ManualTrans.
HJ ... 327..300 ..AFB 1x4BC, A/C & ManualTrans.
HK .. 327..365 . Holley 1x4, Mech. Lifters, A/C, 4-Spd
HL ... 327 .365.. Holley 1x4, Mech. Lifters, T/I, 4-Spd
HM .. 327.365 . Holley 1x4, Mech. Lft, AJC, T/I, 4-Spd
HN .. 327 .375 . FI, Hi-Lift Cam, T/I & 4-Speed
HO .. 327 .250 .WCFB 1x4BC & Powerglide
HP .. 327 .300 ..AFB 1x4BC & Powerglide
HQ .. 327.250 .WCFB 1x4BC, A/C & Powerglide
HR .. 327.300 ..AFB 1x4BC, A/C & Powerglide
HT .. 327.350... Holley 1x4BC, Hyd. Lifters &4-Speed
HU .. 327.350.. Holley 1x4BC, Hyd. Lifters, A/C, 4-Spd
HV .. 327.350.. Holley 1x4BC, Hyd. Lifters, T/I, 4-Spd
HW 327.350 . Holley 1x4BC, Hyd. Lft, A/C, T/I, 4-spd
IF* . 396 425 . Holley 1x4BC,T/I &4-Speed
Note: WCFB and AFB four-barrel carburetion manufact-
ured by Carter; FI means Rochester Fuel Injection; A/C
means Air Conditioning (C60); TI means Transistor Ignit-
ion;(*) The 396 engine entered production app. Feb, '65.
The following users liked this post:
jsans (07-19-2018)
Old 07-19-2018, 09:47 PM
  #7  
jsans
Pro
Thread Starter
 
jsans's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jul 2018
Location: Illinois
Posts: 604
Received 65 Likes on 38 Posts
Default Codes

OK here we go, I took pictures of the engine block codes. Kind of hard to tell, I think I have them correct. (For some reason, this site won't let me post more pics.on this posting)

VIN: 194675S100639
-----------------------------------------------
Engine Code: First Set:GM (8 on its side) 3782870
------------------------------------------------
Engine Code: Second Set: H254
------------------------------------------------
Engine Code: Third Set:
852
H17-870
------------------------------------------------


Last edited by jsans; 07-19-2018 at 10:01 PM. Reason: Added pics
Old 07-19-2018, 10:02 PM
  #8  
Fawndeuce
Safety Car
 
Fawndeuce's Avatar
 
Member Since: Aug 2006
Location: Location, Location QC,NY
Posts: 3,547
Received 35 Likes on 29 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by jsans
OK here we go, I took pictures of the engine block codes. Kind of hard to tell, I think I have them correct.

First Set:GM (8 on its side) 3782870
------------------------------------------------
Second Set: H254
------------------------------------------------
Third Set:
852
H17-870
------------------------------------------------


Hi,
The number in your photo is the block casting number, the stamp pad is just at the front of the passenger side head, see below picture that I stole online.
In the photo you can see the HH at the end of the second set of characters, this would signify a 375HP solid lifter engine.


Paul
Old 07-19-2018, 10:12 PM
  #9  
emdoller
Melting Slicks
 
emdoller's Avatar
 
Member Since: Aug 2010
Location: El Dorado Hills CA
Posts: 2,793
Received 479 Likes on 336 Posts

Default

The good news is 3782870 was used in 1965 so that’s a good sign. Post the front stamp info as mentioned above. Sometimes if the engine’s been rebuilt, the info on the pad is sanded off.

Ed
Old 07-20-2018, 12:49 AM
  #10  
jsans
Pro
Thread Starter
 
jsans's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jul 2018
Location: Illinois
Posts: 604
Received 65 Likes on 38 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by emdoller
The good news is 3782870 was used in 1965 so that’s a good sign. Post the front stamp info as mentioned above. Sometimes if the engine’s been rebuilt, the info on the pad is sanded off.

Ed
Got it, I'll head back to the garage tomorrow and look for it.
Old 07-20-2018, 12:50 AM
  #11  
jsans
Pro
Thread Starter
 
jsans's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jul 2018
Location: Illinois
Posts: 604
Received 65 Likes on 38 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Fawndeuce
Hi,
The number in your photo is the block casting number, the stamp pad is just at the front of the passenger side head, see below picture that I stole online.
In the photo you can see the HH at the end of the second set of characters, this would signify a 375HP solid lifter engine.


Paul
That makes sense as to why my numbers didn't seem complete and confusing.
Old 07-20-2018, 12:56 AM
  #12  
65GGvert
Team Owner
 
65GGvert's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jul 2006
Location: Kannapolis NC
Posts: 20,571
Received 3,217 Likes on 2,301 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by Fawndeuce
Hi,
The number in your photo is the block casting number, the stamp pad is just at the front of the passenger side head, see below picture that I stole online.
In the photo you can see the HH at the end of the second set of characters, this would signify a 375HP solid lifter engine.


Paul

My reference shows HH as 365 hp, the fuel injected 375 hp should be HG
The following users liked this post:
jsans (07-20-2018)
Old 07-20-2018, 01:00 AM
  #13  
jsans
Pro
Thread Starter
 
jsans's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jul 2018
Location: Illinois
Posts: 604
Received 65 Likes on 38 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by 65GGvert
Stamp pad shows 365 hp, solid lifter engine. Now if the last 5 on the Vin match the last 5 on the pad (looks to be 19989), you have a real good start. That engine uses the intake valve covers and breather in your second picture from earllier.

PS, also comes with a quart larger oil pan.
That explains why the oil pan looks so big. So this was the highest horsepower 327 that they made back then. I wonder how many of those were made. The engine is missing the heads and manifold. Any guess as to what it might cost to rebuild (to a non-high compression) and put back into the car?
Old 07-20-2018, 01:09 AM
  #14  
65GGvert
Team Owner
 
65GGvert's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jul 2006
Location: Kannapolis NC
Posts: 20,571
Received 3,217 Likes on 2,301 Posts

Default

I thought the stamp pad picture was your engine and apparently it was not. Post your stamp pad for better info.
The following users liked this post:
jsans (07-20-2018)
Old 07-20-2018, 01:11 AM
  #15  
65GGvert
Team Owner
 
65GGvert's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jul 2006
Location: Kannapolis NC
Posts: 20,571
Received 3,217 Likes on 2,301 Posts

Default

And the 375 horsepower fuel injected was the highest horsepower 327
Old 07-20-2018, 08:40 AM
  #16  
gilbybarr
Le Mans Master
 
gilbybarr's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jul 2000
Posts: 5,181
Received 1,884 Likes on 792 Posts

Default

Hello to the OP.....that first photo at the top is from my '65 327/300....as noted above, the label, though a bit hard to read, says 300. Here is another shot from the other side...this time with the air cleaner off. Welcome to the Forum!

Last edited by gilbybarr; 07-20-2018 at 08:40 AM.
The following 2 users liked this post by gilbybarr:
jsans (07-21-2018), TCKT B8 (07-20-2018)
Old 07-20-2018, 10:07 AM
  #17  
Fawndeuce
Safety Car
 
Fawndeuce's Avatar
 
Member Since: Aug 2006
Location: Location, Location QC,NY
Posts: 3,547
Received 35 Likes on 29 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by jsans
Got it, I'll head back to the garage tomorrow and look for it.
I've circled the number pad for you, it looks like there might be some digits visible. As mentioned, it is possible however that it will be blank from having been previously machined during a rebuild, but if you do see characters and they are hard to read, do not scrape the pad or use sand paper, you will destroy or damage the surface. You can clean it with lacquer thinner on a rag, nothing abrasive, you absolutely do not want to damage the surface if the numbers are original.
Good luck,

Paul

The following users liked this post:
jsans (07-21-2018)

Get notified of new replies

To 1965 Valve Covers

Old 07-21-2018, 12:39 AM
  #18  
jsans
Pro
Thread Starter
 
jsans's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jul 2018
Location: Illinois
Posts: 604
Received 65 Likes on 38 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Fawndeuce
I've circled the number pad for you, it looks like there might be some digits visible. As mentioned, it is possible however that it will be blank from having been previously machined during a rebuild, but if you do see characters and they are hard to read, do not scrape the pad or use sand paper, you will destroy or damage the surface. You can clean it with lacquer thinner on a rag, nothing abrasive, you absolutely do not want to damage the surface if the numbers are original.
Good luck,

Paul

My VIN: 194675S100639

1: Division - Chevrolet

9: Series - Corvette

4: Engine - V8

67: Body Style – 2 door convertible

5: Year - 1965

S: Assembly Plant - St. Louis, MO

Production Number: 100639 (100,001-123,562) 639th out of 23,561 corvettes manufactured in 1965.

Paul you read my mind. Here's a picture with the stamp codes un retouched. 5100639 and F0828HT. This is what I get...

HT - HT 1965 327 s h/p, hyd lifters, muncie trans 350 HP 4 Barrel Carb Vette.

Is there anything that I missed? Is this a match?





Old 07-21-2018, 12:45 AM
  #19  
jsans
Pro
Thread Starter
 
jsans's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jul 2018
Location: Illinois
Posts: 604
Received 65 Likes on 38 Posts
Default

Any guesses as to how much it would cost to completely rebuild this engine with new pistons, shafts, heads. intake manifold, etc.etc.?
Old 07-21-2018, 07:05 AM
  #20  
Boyan
Drifting
 
Boyan's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jan 2010
Location: Woodland Hills CA
Posts: 1,951
Received 462 Likes on 292 Posts

Default 327

In my area about $4000. Im just curious, why would you want to lower the compression on one of the best engines GM ever built ?


Quick Reply: [C2] 1965 Valve Covers



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 09:15 PM.