Electric steering installed on my 62
08-16-2018, 02:01 AM
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Electric steering installed on my 62
A very close friend and fellow club member just installed electric assisted power steering in my 62. I have only driven it twice since the installation but the difference is amazing, particularly at low speeds or while parking, especially with the smaller 15 inch steering wheel.
It doesn’t quite feel like the steering in my C7, but I can easily now turn the wheel with 2 fingers even while stopped. It seems to feel more like my C3. The installation instructions were pretty straight forward although the installation took longer than was claimed in their video, Which made it look easier than it actually was. Some of the problems he encountered were getting the steering tube and box out without taking off the Pittman arm. There simply was not enough room for him to get a puller in the tight space so he removed the arm once he got it out of the car.
Another issue was cutting the steering outer tube and inner rod and then cutting a double “D” on the inner rod in order to accept their couplings. Neither he nor I felt comfortable doing this so we had a machine shop do it for us. Once that was done and everything was reinstalled, it was time to test it. As I backed out of his driveway and turned the wheel almost to full lock the steering tube which is pressed on, broke free from the steering box most likely due to the electric motors torque, so back into his garage to take it all apart again. He then took the tube and box to another shop and had it welded on, then reinstalled everything and the problem was solved.
The computerized “brain” was installed behind the center console which was tight but doable and the selector **** to adjust the desired amount of electric assistance was mounted on the side of the console, accessible while driving. Turning the **** to maximum assistance is great for parking but I find highway driving more suitable to a middle setting.
This may not be the way to go for someone who wants to maintain an all original C1 trailer queen or Ncrs car, however I decided to go more the resto rod route and have a 383 stoker with a racing cam 460hp, with disc brakes that is actually drivable but maintains the look of the C1. My next step will probably be having vintage air installed sometime before next summer and just have fun driving it.
It doesn’t quite feel like the steering in my C7, but I can easily now turn the wheel with 2 fingers even while stopped. It seems to feel more like my C3. The installation instructions were pretty straight forward although the installation took longer than was claimed in their video, Which made it look easier than it actually was. Some of the problems he encountered were getting the steering tube and box out without taking off the Pittman arm. There simply was not enough room for him to get a puller in the tight space so he removed the arm once he got it out of the car.
Another issue was cutting the steering outer tube and inner rod and then cutting a double “D” on the inner rod in order to accept their couplings. Neither he nor I felt comfortable doing this so we had a machine shop do it for us. Once that was done and everything was reinstalled, it was time to test it. As I backed out of his driveway and turned the wheel almost to full lock the steering tube which is pressed on, broke free from the steering box most likely due to the electric motors torque, so back into his garage to take it all apart again. He then took the tube and box to another shop and had it welded on, then reinstalled everything and the problem was solved.
The computerized “brain” was installed behind the center console which was tight but doable and the selector **** to adjust the desired amount of electric assistance was mounted on the side of the console, accessible while driving. Turning the **** to maximum assistance is great for parking but I find highway driving more suitable to a middle setting.
This may not be the way to go for someone who wants to maintain an all original C1 trailer queen or Ncrs car, however I decided to go more the resto rod route and have a 383 stoker with a racing cam 460hp, with disc brakes that is actually drivable but maintains the look of the C1. My next step will probably be having vintage air installed sometime before next summer and just have fun driving it.
08-16-2018, 02:19 AM
#2
Safety Car
I installed an EPAS system on my 67 Mustang restomod recently and it’s amazing. I can fine tune it with a simple dial that was included. This was my only option for this particular car due to the engine and supercharger combo, but it turned out great.
08-16-2018, 07:29 AM
#3
Drifting
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Can you tell us more about these kits, as in which one you went with, & are there multiple companies offering them? Something so we can establish a baseline of which ones to consider, & the impression of those who have installed them, and I'm curious on where to get them, & costs? This may be something I consider in the future as my 365 has no power steering, which doesn't bother me too much, but it might as the years pass.
I am in auto industry, and nearly everything is going to electric power steering, I just never thought about a retro-fit. Thanks for the informative post, both of your replies sound very positive!
I am in auto industry, and nearly everything is going to electric power steering, I just never thought about a retro-fit. Thanks for the informative post, both of your replies sound very positive!
Last edited by Rob_64-365; 08-16-2018 at 07:33 AM.
08-16-2018, 07:49 AM
#4
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So the counter-torque of rotating the steering shaft is taken by the thin steel steering column tube?
That's a function it was not engineered to perform.
That's a function it was not engineered to perform.
08-16-2018, 12:48 PM
#7
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
A very close friend and fellow club member just installed electric assisted power steering in my 62. I have only driven it twice since the installation but the difference is amazing, particularly at low speeds or while parking, especially with the smaller 15 inch steering wheel.
It doesn’t quite feel like the steering in my C7, but I can easily now turn the wheel with 2 fingers even while stopped. It seems to feel more like my C3. The installation instructions were pretty straight forward although the installation took longer than was claimed in their video, Which made it look easier than it actually was. Some of the problems he encountered were getting the steering tube and box out without taking off the Pittman arm. There simply was not enough room for him to get a puller in the tight space so he removed the arm once he got it out of the car.
Another issue was cutting the steering outer tube and inner rod and then cutting a double “D” on the inner rod in order to accept their couplings. Neither he nor I felt comfortable doing this so we had a machine shop do it for us. Once that was done and everything was reinstalled, it was time to test it. As I backed out of his driveway and turned the wheel almost to full lock the steering tube which is pressed on, broke free from the steering box most likely due to the electric motors torque, so back into his garage to take it all apart again. He then took the tube and box to another shop and had it welded on, then reinstalled everything and the problem was solved.
The computerized “brain” was installed behind the center console which was tight but doable and the selector **** to adjust the desired amount of electric assistance was mounted on the side of the console, accessible while driving. Turning the **** to maximum assistance is great for parking but I find highway driving more suitable to a middle setting.
This may not be the way to go for someone who wants to maintain an all original C1 trailer queen or Ncrs car, however I decided to go more the resto rod route and have a 383 stoker with a racing cam 460hp, with disc brakes that is actually drivable but maintains the look of the C1. My next step will probably be having vintage air installed sometime before next summer and just have fun driving it.
It doesn’t quite feel like the steering in my C7, but I can easily now turn the wheel with 2 fingers even while stopped. It seems to feel more like my C3. The installation instructions were pretty straight forward although the installation took longer than was claimed in their video, Which made it look easier than it actually was. Some of the problems he encountered were getting the steering tube and box out without taking off the Pittman arm. There simply was not enough room for him to get a puller in the tight space so he removed the arm once he got it out of the car.
Another issue was cutting the steering outer tube and inner rod and then cutting a double “D” on the inner rod in order to accept their couplings. Neither he nor I felt comfortable doing this so we had a machine shop do it for us. Once that was done and everything was reinstalled, it was time to test it. As I backed out of his driveway and turned the wheel almost to full lock the steering tube which is pressed on, broke free from the steering box most likely due to the electric motors torque, so back into his garage to take it all apart again. He then took the tube and box to another shop and had it welded on, then reinstalled everything and the problem was solved.
The computerized “brain” was installed behind the center console which was tight but doable and the selector **** to adjust the desired amount of electric assistance was mounted on the side of the console, accessible while driving. Turning the **** to maximum assistance is great for parking but I find highway driving more suitable to a middle setting.
This may not be the way to go for someone who wants to maintain an all original C1 trailer queen or Ncrs car, however I decided to go more the resto rod route and have a 383 stoker with a racing cam 460hp, with disc brakes that is actually drivable but maintains the look of the C1. My next step will probably be having vintage air installed sometime before next summer and just have fun driving it.
When I became interested in power steering I researched rack and pinion and then electric assisted power steering, much like is found in the new cars. I wanted something priced reasonably and as close to a direct fit without modifications as possible in case I ever wanted to change it back to original.
Rack and pinion was by far the most expensive both in parts and labor costs. Several kits are available for both, Manuel rack and pinion kits cost about 2500 to 3,000 and hydraulic power steering for around 3500 to 4,000 plus labor to have them installed so you would be looking at 5,000 to 6,000 or more in total cost. Another consideration was room in the engine compartment for the power steering pump and an air compressor should I have vintage air installed at a later date.
American power train makes a unit for around 3,500 but had some bad installation reviews here on the forum so I crossed them off plus the price was too high
Unisteer has a unit for around 1,500 but there is quite a bit of modifications to be made and it won’t connect to the stock steering column because the diameters are different sizes so you have to buy an additional ididit steering column which increases the total cost to around 2,500 plus labor, or somehow Jerry rig couplings to make everything fit. Then you also have a problem with your vin tag not being on the ididit column.
The system I decided on was EPAS. It is a direct fit for your specific model year and is priced at 1,450 but I was able to get mine on sale from ecklers for 1,300. In order to install the unit you have to cut the steering column and inner rod so the motor which is located inside the cabin against the firewall will attach to it using their couplings. Your vin tag on the steering tube in the engine compartment is not touched at all. Visually no one would know you had electric steering unless they crawled under your dash.
As mentioned in my first post above, my outer steering tube which is normally pressed on the steering box broke loose and had to be welded on, which is not supposed to happen. It may have been caused by the torque of the electric motor or maybe I just turned the wheel too far and with too much strength instead of letting the electric setup do its job. Because the whole column turned including the turn signal it must have been loose to begin with, apparently my car suffered front end damage during a prior accident which may have loosened the tube from the steering box. The outer steering tube is not supposed to turn at all and it doesn’t now. The inner rod is the only thing that turns and connects to the electric motor at one end with the other end connected inside the steering box. Prior to the installation the steering box used to leak and doesn’t now so I’m thinking the tube was always loose. In any event it’s all fixed now and working great, wish I had done it years ago.
Now if you don’t like the sound of cutting your steering column, you can buy a replacement column and steering box from corvette central and buy a replacement vin tag online to attach to it and use that column for your installation, keeping your column intact. After driving it with electric steering I would never consider changing it back but if I did then I could always buy a replacement column and vin tag.
The EPAS kit comes complete with everything you need for the installation, other than cutting the steering column no modifications to the car is needed. In their video the say it can be done in 10 hours but it took my friend probably twice that time. Then again he is very meticulous and makes sure things are just perfect, plus he fixed little issues with the car as he found them.
unless you are a skilled machinists I would recommend having a machine shop cut the tube, the inner rod and cut the necessary double D on the rod. If you go that route, take the coupling with you so they can cut the double D exactly to fit in the coupling. Our local machine shop charged me 250 and was done in a day.
EPAS makes these kits for many different makes of cars. Here is their website and an installation video on JEGS website below.
https://epasperformance.com/
http://www.jegs.com/i/EPAS-Performan.../2001/10002/-1
I hope I have answered everyone’s questions. If you have more i’ll be happy to answer them as well.
Last edited by Red 50th Anniversary; 08-16-2018 at 01:10 PM.
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Kerrmudgeon (08-19-2018)
08-16-2018, 01:16 PM
#8
Drifting
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Excellent dissertation, concise and informative. 
I believe this is in the future for me.
BH
Just viewed the video from your link. Very interesting. They do make it look simple and it looks like a very straight forward installation. I'm kinda surprised they didn't put some locktight on the set screws that hold the steering shaft to the electric motor at both sides. Maybe this is a failsafe that is not needed, but what happens if the set screws on the shaft work loose....can you still steer? Must be able too or the liability would be too great for EPAS.
I believe this is in the future for me.BH
Just viewed the video from your link. Very interesting. They do make it look simple and it looks like a very straight forward installation. I'm kinda surprised they didn't put some locktight on the set screws that hold the steering shaft to the electric motor at both sides. Maybe this is a failsafe that is not needed, but what happens if the set screws on the shaft work loose....can you still steer? Must be able too or the liability would be too great for EPAS.
Last edited by Dreaming60’s; 08-16-2018 at 01:35 PM.
08-16-2018, 01:16 PM
#9
Burning Brakes
Just saw an advertisement in Hot Rod magazine from American Powertrain the 5 speed company for electric PS for 55-68 Corvettes. Price was $1895.
08-16-2018, 02:04 PM
#10
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Excellent dissertation, concise and informative. I believe this is in the future for me.
BH
Just viewed the video from your link. Very interesting. They do make it look simple and it looks like a very straight forward installation. I'm kinda surprised they didn't put some locktight on the set screws that hold the steering shaft to the electric motor at both sides. Maybe this is a failsafe that is not needed, but what happens if the set screws on the shaft work loose....can you still steer? Must be able too or the liability would be too great for EPAS.
I believe this is in the future for me.BH
Just viewed the video from your link. Very interesting. They do make it look simple and it looks like a very straight forward installation. I'm kinda surprised they didn't put some locktight on the set screws that hold the steering shaft to the electric motor at both sides. Maybe this is a failsafe that is not needed, but what happens if the set screws on the shaft work loose....can you still steer? Must be able too or the liability would be too great for EPAS.
btw, I just looked at the photos of your car. It is beautiful!
Last edited by Red 50th Anniversary; 08-16-2018 at 02:09 PM.
08-16-2018, 10:36 PM
#13
Le Mans Master
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A very close friend and fellow club member just installed electric assisted power steering in my 62. I have only driven it twice since the installation but the difference is amazing, particularly at low speeds or while parking, especially with the smaller 15 inch steering wheel.
It doesn’t quite feel like the steering in my C7, but I can easily now turn the wheel with 2 fingers even while stopped. It seems to feel more like my C3. The installation instructions were pretty straight forward although the installation took longer than was claimed in their video, Which made it look easier than it actually was. Some of the problems he encountered were getting the steering tube and box out without taking off the Pittman arm. There simply was not enough room for him to get a puller in the tight space so he removed the arm once he got it out of the car.
Another issue was cutting the steering outer tube and inner rod and then cutting a double “D” on the inner rod in order to accept their couplings. Neither he nor I felt comfortable doing this so we had a machine shop do it for us. Once that was done and everything was reinstalled, it was time to test it. As I backed out of his driveway and turned the wheel almost to full lock the steering tube which is pressed on, broke free from the steering box most likely due to the electric motors torque, so back into his garage to take it all apart again. He then took the tube and box to another shop and had it welded on, then reinstalled everything and the problem was solved.
The computerized “brain” was installed behind the center console which was tight but doable and the selector **** to adjust the desired amount of electric assistance was mounted on the side of the console, accessible while driving. Turning the **** to maximum assistance is great for parking but I find highway driving more suitable to a middle setting.
This may not be the way to go for someone who wants to maintain an all original C1 trailer queen or Ncrs car, however I decided to go more the resto rod route and have a 383 stoker with a racing cam 460hp, with disc brakes that is actually drivable but maintains the look of the C1. My next step will probably be having vintage air installed sometime before next summer and just have fun driving it.
It doesn’t quite feel like the steering in my C7, but I can easily now turn the wheel with 2 fingers even while stopped. It seems to feel more like my C3. The installation instructions were pretty straight forward although the installation took longer than was claimed in their video, Which made it look easier than it actually was. Some of the problems he encountered were getting the steering tube and box out without taking off the Pittman arm. There simply was not enough room for him to get a puller in the tight space so he removed the arm once he got it out of the car.
Another issue was cutting the steering outer tube and inner rod and then cutting a double “D” on the inner rod in order to accept their couplings. Neither he nor I felt comfortable doing this so we had a machine shop do it for us. Once that was done and everything was reinstalled, it was time to test it. As I backed out of his driveway and turned the wheel almost to full lock the steering tube which is pressed on, broke free from the steering box most likely due to the electric motors torque, so back into his garage to take it all apart again. He then took the tube and box to another shop and had it welded on, then reinstalled everything and the problem was solved.
The computerized “brain” was installed behind the center console which was tight but doable and the selector **** to adjust the desired amount of electric assistance was mounted on the side of the console, accessible while driving. Turning the **** to maximum assistance is great for parking but I find highway driving more suitable to a middle setting.
This may not be the way to go for someone who wants to maintain an all original C1 trailer queen or Ncrs car, however I decided to go more the resto rod route and have a 383 stoker with a racing cam 460hp, with disc brakes that is actually drivable but maintains the look of the C1. My next step will probably be having vintage air installed sometime before next summer and just have fun driving it.
08-17-2018, 05:47 PM
#14
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Doesn't the addition of the electric steering unit add to the length of the steering column. Easy enough to compensate for, but that was never mentioned in the video.
Also, and just wondering, why does the unit have to be under the dash. Could it be mounted in the engine compartment, lower down on the steering column.
Also seems like a good opportunity to add a steering coupler (rag joint) just to get away from that solid one piece steering column.
Also, and just wondering, why does the unit have to be under the dash. Could it be mounted in the engine compartment, lower down on the steering column.
Also seems like a good opportunity to add a steering coupler (rag joint) just to get away from that solid one piece steering column.
08-17-2018, 06:11 PM
#15
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St. Jude Donor '07
Doesn't the addition of the electric steering unit add to the length of the steering column. Easy enough to compensate for, but that was never mentioned in the video.
Also, and just wondering, why does the unit have to be under the dash. Could it be mounted in the engine compartment, lower down on the steering column.
Also seems like a good opportunity to add a steering coupler (rag joint) just to get away from that solid one piece steering column.
Also, and just wondering, why does the unit have to be under the dash. Could it be mounted in the engine compartment, lower down on the steering column.
Also seems like a good opportunity to add a steering coupler (rag joint) just to get away from that solid one piece steering column.
Bill
08-18-2018, 01:54 AM
#16
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Interesting video and well done. For those with a '53-'57, the steering column removal is not as clean as what is shown in the video (post '57). You will have to remove the generator, exhaust header, radiator and grill in order to remove the column.
08-19-2018, 05:53 PM
#17
Burning Brakes
If you keep the stock steering box you still have the slop of the steering box don't you? I was looking at Steeroids kit to use hydraulic power steering and a rack and pinion to replace the stock steering box. looks like a nice installation but I have AC on the 61 Corvette and they don't have a mounting bracket or pulleys to use when you have a alternator and AC. Anyone encountered this problem and found a solution?
08-19-2018, 06:31 PM
#18
Instructor
If you keep the stock steering box you still have the slop of the steering box don't you? I was looking at Steeroids kit to use hydraulic power steering and a rack and pinion to replace the stock steering box. looks like a nice installation but I have AC on the 61 Corvette and they don't have a mounting bracket or pulleys to use when you have a alternator and AC. Anyone encountered this problem and found a solution?
Mac
08-19-2018, 06:52 PM
#19
Burning Brakes
Jerry - I considered the electric p/s kit too but as you mentioned, you still have the old steering box and 3rd arm to contend with. I went with a Unisteer hydraulic power rack and pinion system on my 61. I too have A/C from Classic Auto Air (compressor on driver side) and an alternator that looks like a generator w/ tach drive on the passenger side. All this and I'm running Rochester FI. Had to relocate the coolant expansion tank to the pass side behind the generator. A/C bracket was from Alan Grove, p/s bracket from Unisteer (had to space it out some) and used all stock GM pulleys on the water pump and crank. I see you're in Boulder, CO. I'm in Niwot and would be glad to run the car over to you for a look-see.
Mac
I'm doing something similar. I don't see where you [ut the power pump. Is it under the "generator"?
08-19-2018, 07:08 PM
#20
Instructor
Its down low under the compressor. Can't really get a good pic of it. Its a GM type II pump with a remote reservoir. Reservoir is under the compressor in the space the steering box was.