Battery cut off switch.
#1
Race Director
Thread Starter
Battery cut off switch.
Where do you have yours. I usually disconnect the battery when I am not going to be using the car. I want to add a switch, and not thru the door of the battery compartment.
#2
Melting Slicks
I used this from summit racing. I can remove the key for security
Last edited by speedreed8; 08-16-2018 at 03:16 PM.
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kanvasman (08-16-2018)
#3
Race Director
Thread Starter
#4
Safety Car
I installed that switch under rear center door, which is also lock-able.
very easy to do ... right next to battery.
very easy to do ... right next to battery.
Last edited by 69Vett; 08-16-2018 at 03:50 PM.
#5
Safety Car
I put one in. The base of the switch is in the battery compartment, but the switch handle is in the center glove box. I did add some fiberglass mat to side of the cardboard glovebox insert to give it more strength.I put one in. The base of the switch is in the battery compartment, but the switch handle is in the center glove box. I did add some fiberglass mat to side of the cardboard glovebox insert to give it more strength.
#7
Melting Slicks
I was able to install it in the battery compartment
#8
Race Director
Member Since: Apr 2011
Location: North of Toronto - Ontario
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I just use a wirthco/battery Doctor side post blade switch attached to the battery. Get a good quality one as the cheapo ones aren't great.
M
M
#9
Burning Brakes
so nice to have the piece of mind to just reach back, undo the cap, and anti-theft mode is engaged... also anti-burn-down mode as well ^.^
oh yeah... when it's engaged, it also offers great fuel millage as well
oh yeah... when it's engaged, it also offers great fuel millage as well
Last edited by naramlee; 08-16-2018 at 11:07 PM.
#10
Melting Slicks
Im in the process of installing a battery brain T3. Its unique in that it comes with a wireless fob to disconnect the battery. Without drawing attention to a hidden remote shutoff switch. I did a lot of research on the various remote solenoid shut off switches. This is the only product that had 5 star reviews from everyone who installed it. It also monitors the battery voltage and automatically shuts off the battery to preserve cranking voltage, even if you do not shut it off.. Im remotely installing mine, nope not telling you where, LoL!
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naramlee (08-17-2018)
#12
Team Owner
Uhh....the purpose of the [hidden] disconnect switch is so that it would be DIFFICULT FOR A CROOK TO TURN BACK ON! But, if you want something EASY to turn on and off...go for it.
Mine is in the battery box--not so easy to get to; but it is "secure".
Mine is in the battery box--not so easy to get to; but it is "secure".
Last edited by 7T1vette; 08-18-2018 at 12:06 AM.
#13
Race Director
Thread Starter
UHH.........I am not interested in it for a theft deterrent. I have a garage and when I take it someplace I usually have it close by. I also have theft insurance. If someone is going to steal your car they will get it no matter what you have to deter them. I want it there because I don't trust my 46 year old wires in the car. My car is parked in a garage under my house and I don't need a fire there. So disconnecting the battery when it is not in use gives me piece of mind. And right now I am disconnecting the cable and want an easier way to do it. DUH.......
Last edited by 540 vette; 08-18-2018 at 10:35 AM.
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rickimvette (08-22-2018)
#14
Le Mans Master
#15
Race Director
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I'll also add that I put a small fuse holder (I used the inline style but the blade like speedreed8 shows works also) and in my case a 1.5 amp slo-blo fuse. This keeps the radio station presets and fader controls etc and the clock (quartz) correct while still preventing most anything with enough current from being able to start a fire.
My interior lights are all LED so even if I open the door without closing the blade it doesn't pop the fuse
If it's going asleep for a long time I pull the fuse as well
M
My interior lights are all LED so even if I open the door without closing the blade it doesn't pop the fuse
If it's going asleep for a long time I pull the fuse as well
M
#16
Race Director
I'll also add that I put a small fuse holder (I used the inline style but the blade like speedreed8 shows works also) and in my case a 1.5 amp slo-blo fuse. This keeps the radio station presets and fader controls etc and the clock (quartz) correct while still preventing most anything with enough current from being able to start a fire.
My interior lights are all LED so even if I open the door without closing the blade it doesn't pop the fuse
If it's going asleep for a long time I pull the fuse as well
M
My interior lights are all LED so even if I open the door without closing the blade it doesn't pop the fuse
If it's going asleep for a long time I pull the fuse as well
M
#17
Melting Slicks
that’s exactly what I have. I use a 5 amp fuse for the clock lights radio. Can’t tell you how many times I’ve blown it. Trying to start without turning on the main switch 😩
#18
Race Director
Thread Starter
#19
Melting Slicks
I wrapped up the battery brain install this weekend along with some other electrical projects that were on the back burner. Im very pleased with the way it functions. after you park your car just hit the fob, I have a bundle invested in my car, I dont have the factory alarm system anymore, I never like the look of that "trunk" key lock on the tail light panel. I think a tracking device is in my future as well. for now, they may tow it away, but they wont start it!
#20
Safety Car
I have the same setup as Speedreed8. I keep it off when its in the garage to prevent any type of parasitic battery drain, and it is also usefull as
a deterrent when I drive the car somewhere and go inside where I can not see it. I keep the red lock on a binder clip, and it clips onto my keychain
so I dont lose that also.
kdf
a deterrent when I drive the car somewhere and go inside where I can not see it. I keep the red lock on a binder clip, and it clips onto my keychain
so I dont lose that also.
kdf