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New or rebuilt engine oil pressure (1k+ boosted)

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Old 08-17-2018, 01:27 AM
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Tech
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Default New or rebuilt engine oil pressure (1k+ boosted)

What is your hot oil pressure at idle? What is your idle speed? What oil are you using?

My stock LS7 would dip in the low 20s when it was really hot. My new engine is as low as 12 psi so far (650 rpm). I’m still on conventional oil for break-in (10w40, I think) and will be swapping to 15w50 or 20w50 soon. Before I dump another $100 worth of oil in it, I thought I’d get input from others with looser engines.
Old 08-17-2018, 06:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Tech
What is your hot oil pressure at idle? What is your idle speed? What oil are you using?

My stock LS7 would dip in the low 20s when it was really hot. My new engine is as low as 12 psi so far (650 rpm). I’m still on conventional oil for break-in (10w40, I think) and will be swapping to 15w50 or 20w50 soon. Before I dump another $100 worth of oil in it, I thought I’d get input from others with looser engines.
hot oil pressure at 800 rpm 38-40 lbs with stock oil pump using 5w30 Mobil 1.over 70 lbs when rpm over 4,000
Old 08-17-2018, 08:54 AM
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On my last built motor, ~35-40psi hot at idle, 800rpm. Would be 60-75 cold. Zrod 10-30.
Old 08-17-2018, 09:00 AM
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realcanuk
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Around 35 PSI at hot idle.... 750ish rpm. 60 PSI hot when cruising 2000 rpm. Driven LS30 oil since new.
Old 08-17-2018, 10:57 AM
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TSP Darton sleeved, forged 9.7:1 427. With the Joe Gibbs 10/40 break in oil, it would idle at 13-14 psi at 200+ oil temps in 100+ degree weather. After 2 break in oil changes I switched to Valvoline VR1 20/50 and it hasn't dropped below 22 psi at idle in the same hot temps. This is on a new OEM LS7 oil pump, kinda regret not getting a Katech pump but its too late now. Oil pressure while cruising and high rpm is great. TSP told me that the break in oil breaks down really quick and recommended a thicker oil since the bearing clearances are a little looser on a engine built for boost, also an oil that is high in zinc.
Old 08-17-2018, 11:03 AM
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My forged LS7 will idle hot at around 25 psi at 800rpm with Amsoil Z-Rod.
Old 08-19-2018, 09:27 AM
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SBE LS7 with 43k miles. Hot (220-230) oil temp at idle, ~875rpms, 26 psi. Running Mobil 1 15w-50.
Old 08-19-2018, 12:09 PM
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73DBG
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There is a really good thread on here by a mechanical engineer(SAE)who works for and does oil testing, it’s a lengthy read but he has posted data on over 200 different oils that were tested by mechanical/chemical engineers all SAE guys. I found it very helpful because it’s 100% test data no opinions or speculations just real scientific test data. Break in oil is a terrible choice, not my opinion just going off the numbers. His simple recommendation is use an oil with the highest PSI wear protection, no matter what, break in or not. I’ll look around and try and post a link. Another good point he makes and the data proves is an oil can’t provide wear protection and at the same time allow wear for a break in period, it’s just impossible to do both.
Old 08-19-2018, 12:11 PM
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It’s a sticky in the C3 section but here’s a think to the thread.


https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...test-data.html
Old 08-19-2018, 07:21 PM
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Originally Posted by 73DBG
There is a really good thread on here by a mechanical engineer(SAE)who works for and does oil testing, it’s a lengthy read but he has posted data on over 200 different oils that were tested by mechanical/chemical engineers all SAE guys. I found it very helpful because it’s 100% test data no opinions or speculations just real scientific test data. Break in oil is a terrible choice, not my opinion just going off the numbers. His simple recommendation is use an oil with the highest PSI wear protection, no matter what, break in or not. I’ll look around and try and post a link. Another good point he makes and the data proves is an oil can’t provide wear protection and at the same time allow wear for a break in period, it’s just impossible to do both.
Break in oil is a terrible choice for what? For wear protection? Of course it is. You touched on that in your last sentence. All of the information I’ve read states break in oils/additives are to _allow_ the parts to wear together initially. I didn’t read the entire thread you linked because it seemed like he was writing to an audience that thinks high zinc oil/additives are useful beyond a break in period.


Last edited by Tech; 08-20-2018 at 07:54 AM. Reason: typo
Old 08-19-2018, 07:48 PM
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The rest of the article says you can’t stop or prevent moving parts from wearing, they will wear to the tolerable amount regardless of break in or oil or not. He does go off on the whole zinc thing which I could care less about. Basically break in oil has awful wear protection and the parts that need to “break in” will automatically do that, will the break in oil do it faster? Sure because it has awful wear protection and an oil with outstanding wear protection will allow and can’t prevent parts from “breaking in” so running break in oil is only a dangerous gamble is basically what the rest of the article says. It goes on to say pick any of the top 50 that match what you need for weight and viscosity and stick with it.
Old 08-19-2018, 08:02 PM
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Running break in oil is a dangerous gamble ? Maybe you need to talk to some top engine builders.
Like Abe Lincoln said. "Don't believe everything you read on the internet".
Old 08-19-2018, 08:36 PM
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Yeah bro I don’t....I am an electrical engineer and have a good bit of friends who are mechanical and chemical so I’ll go with those guys on what’s best and what’s not. Do any new cars come with “break in oil”???
Anwser is no, so you can buy into or believe the marketing or do your own research and make an educated decision on your own, I could care less, your money your car.
Old 08-19-2018, 08:43 PM
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realcanuk
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Thought the thread topic was 1000 hp performance builds. If you want to believe that's the same as you're new car, good luck.

Like you said, everyone should do there own research. Mine is talking to engine builders, not engineers.
Old 08-20-2018, 08:02 AM
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Originally Posted by realcanuk
Thought the thread topic was 1000 hp performance builds. If you want to believe that's the same as you're new car, good luck.

Like you said, everyone should do there own research. Mine is talking to engine builders, not engineers.
I'd take advice from an engine builder with multiple years experience in his craft. I'd venture to say he knows a thing or two about a thing or two.

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