Mikec7z

I know there are plenty of threads out there about this, but i don't want to try to steal someone's spotlight away from their product/kit within their own thread, when i explain what I believe the most cost effective and point blank, "EFFECTIVE" way to solve these overheating issues will be to get these cars into zr1 territory of cooling and beyond.

I apologize in advance, i will not be doing this to my current vehicle, but this will be what I do soon, once I get my next car.

I am open to advice/criticism as long as there are viable data points behind those, and am willing to answer questions of why i think this will work better than the other systems out there.

So lets jump into it...

I don't believe an aux blower cooling tank needs to be added to the vehicle, instead, all that the vehicle needs is A tank, that is HIGHER than the blower water pump... and I believe the stock plastic res on the c7Z is going to be more than capable of taking care of the problem. If a person wants to buy a large res for up on the fender area, they can, for drag racing with ice... great utility in those setups, but for road racers, I believe you are only adding weight and in a very high location none the less.

As GSpeed discovered, the main problem with the stock pump/system is the 3 min shutdown when the pump experiences cavitation, so what you will want to do is put the pump at a very low position in the vehicle, and the stock pump part number 13597903 is fine for the task. If you want a pump that does not shut off from cavitation, 13597902 seems to be its sister pump that does not shut off. However, cavitation WILL kill a pump if it is present, so the 13597903 that is on our cars stock, is great. There are pumps that flow even MORE quantity of fluid on the market, but keep in mind, the more force the impeller exerts on the fluid, the higher chance that impeller itself causes cavitation, so there is a balance point.

Below is a diagram i drew, the key points of this diagram are to emphasize the small res needs to be above the inlet of the pump in height and the pumps inlet needs to be pointing straight up. One would want to create a custom bracket and put this pump as low as they can in the car, or, the other option, is put the small res very high in the car (it is fine for the fluid to have to climb upward from the front heat exchanger to the small res tank), the only must is that the pump is below the small res tank in height. The problem i see with putting the small res tank up high, is heat, it will be up by the motor/header the more and more one raises it, and further and further out of the cold air path. We don't want the fluid to heat back up before it goes to the pump and into the blower. Keep in mind, the fluid circulates this system very fast, so it wont be spending much time in the small tank to pick up heat, so it is not the end of the world, but still, the tank is plastic.. dont put it next to your header, or get an aftermarket metal one. Thus taking the pump to the lowest possible point should be step 1 so the plastic res tank does not have to be lifted too far. Obviously keep the pump in a safe place where it wont get destroyed if the car bottoms out.



In the above picture, there is only 1 front intercooler, a second one should be added, and a front nose with cutouts like LG or GSpeed have, or deity zr1 like nose should allow flow to that added cheek intercooler. I would likely have this intercooler in front of the pump, and have the pump behind the cheek intercooler. I would have the res ABOVE the pump.

I want you to pay attention to the way i drew the outlet on the front intercooler, if you can modify the stock intercooler, or search for an aftermarket one, IF IT IS CONVENIENT/POSSIBLE, i HIGHLY advise you have one with a port that exits vertically out the top of the intercooler... this will prevent air from getting trapped in the intercooler. The goal is to keep the air from being able to hide in the system when we go to purge it. No air in the system, no bubbles, no cavitation, 03 pump stays on at all times.

The inlet port locations on the heat exchangers can be anywhere, any orientation. It is the exits that need to be at high points, this will help carry the air, ultimately to the res tank, where it can easily be bled from the system via a vertical hose that we add to the plastic tank by drilling a hole that matches whatever corresponding fitting you choose to use to hook the hose to. At the top of that hose, will be a bleed fitting that allows you to let the air out. This hose CAN be laid sideways for vehicle operation, the hose will still gather and trap air, as will the res tank. One would want to check this tank often, if they see any air... time to add fluid and bleed out the air from the bleeder line attached to the small res, and fluid is still added to the stock filler port location up by the blower, very simple.

I should add, this system is compatible with any blower, and I would use this setup with the whipple 2.9.




Again, the pump would be behind the HX in the cheek of the car. Which side you do this on, does not matter. I would have the fluid go through the cheek HX LAST, as this SHOULD be the coolest location/HX of the 2, and thus the fluid will be brought to its lowest possible temp by touching this location LAST before it is pumped back to the blower.


The other cheek will contain a transmission cooler (unless you did trans coolers in the rear of the car under the rear bumper cover, and then the other cheek could be ANOTHER oil cooler, or ANOTHER blower fluid cooler... but that would be a lot of cooling). In front of each front tire, there would be an evacuation area cut out of each wheel well, for the hot air to flow out from each cheek, as seen in many other threads and existing systems.

Where the stock transmission cooler is, laying flat in front of the other heat exchangers and radiators, i would put an oil cooler such as GSpeeds black oil cooler they run in the photo below, and I would run a second one of these coolers, for another oil cooler, or trans cooler, whichever your particular setup needs more attention.




The difference in my system would be, i would NOT have any heat exchangers facing STRAIGHT DOWNWARD FLOW PATH. Lets be real here folks, when we are overheating our cars, we are also driving our cars... use the wind/air flow to our advantage. I would use THICKER heat exchangers than gspeed is using, and since the air would be attacking them head on, it WOULD flow through them.

The below diagram shows the black heat exchangers from the side view, where I would have 2 instead of Gspeeds 1, and then the stock radiator and AC condenser, blower cooler, etc. I would ditch the stock flat thin trans cooler.

Instead of the 2nd cooler being clocked at 45*, i would probably have it closer to 25 or 30*, facing more forward. The program i used to draw this quick didn't do 30* clocking



Keep in mind, even though MORE air is now being diverted through the front bottom 2 HX easier than before since the air is attacking in the same direction the HX are now oriented... there will still be ENOUGH new cool air going over/above/around those HX, and back to the radiator and blower HX's, as airflow and the dynamics of pressure play a key role in how much air will still pack into the area behind the 2 front bottom oil etc HX..

I guess the simplest way I can put it is this... if ALL the stock heat exchangers in the nose of the stock car flow X amount of air with Y amount of pressure built up in front.... the air out in front of the car, has a choice to make as it approaches the nose of the vehicle and it will go the path of least resistance... it can flow into the opening at the nose and be trapped, and be forced through the exchangers... But, the air molecule can also avoid the area all together, and this occurs because of high pressure in this nose opening cavity creates a virtual wall in front of the car that much of the other air goes around. To exaggerate this point for fast comprehension, lets say all the HX were blocked off and NO air could flow through them... well then every air molecule in front of the car would flow up and over the hood or down below the car, or off to the side of the car. No new air would really enter the nose cavity HX area, just the original air would be packed in there tight (yeah, it would swirl around, but not the big picture point here)

Now lets do the other extreme, pretend you had a giant hallow tube through your car... then virtually no pressure would build and MORE air molecules would flow through the nose opening than they do on our stock cars.

Everything else is a gray scale in between these 2 exagerated examples above. Allowing the air to exit the high pressure nose cavity area easier, is thus allowing more quantity of air molecules (more volume of air) into the area with X amount of force. Force at any given MPH is constant assuming the inlet opening stays the same shape.

While one might assume the 2 bottom HX in front of the radiator etc are getting in the way, they are not as much as one would assume... the air will flow over/above/around at a faster rate than before, and there will still be the same resistance to the stock radiator and blower cooler for the air to flow through those, so the overall pressure in the nose intake cavity will be lower than before, per MPH, as the air has more AREA to exit, and with less resistance (the air doesn't have to take a 90 degree down turn to exit the stock trans cooler anymore while you are traveling 90mph)

A key to note is, the blue lines are sheet metal. This sheet metal MANDATES air stay away from the downstream HX's. Composite can be used instead of sheet metal too obviously, and would probably be just as good or better.

Additional rear trans cooler(s) can be added to the rear of the car as well, and that will probably be where my next experimentation will be held... focusing more on the rear of the car. If rear coolers were added, then one can abandon the front coolers for trans fluid, and just turn all the front coolers into oil coolers, with the exception of the 1 cheek cooler which would be the extra blower cooler.

The hard trans cooling lines that run up the rocker panel of the car will just be U-Turned with a simple black heater hose and disconnected from the stock trans cooler, and that hard line will act as additional cooling IF rear trans coolers are used instead of the black cooler similar to what gspeed is using in their photo above, but again, i would use 2 of those, not 1, and with different orientation. So one for oil and one for trans, and the other cheek for trans or other cheek for oil... depending on what your car and driving habits needs more attention with.

Obviously, higher capacity radiators are already invented and those can be used with this setup.

The oil would get to the oil coolers via the fitting that attaches the 2 aftermarket hose fittings to the stock oil cooling block under the engine. I have heard mixed reviews that it will mess with oil pressure or it wont, I have yet to get a clear answer to this, but what I believe many people are unaware is that the oil cooler fitting itself has a MECHANICAL thermostat inside, and it blocks off 90% flow when the car is below 180 or 160 degrees, which ever model you choose, and then it OPENS and flows 100% once that certain temp is reached. So one does not have to worry about cooling the oil TOO much while not racing, the cooling devices (HX) in the front are utilized and not utilized via the thermostat inside the fitting.

Also keep in mind, since we are cooling the oil, the rest of the system is no longer burdened to cool the oil down within the engine, instead, the oil is cooled independently. Keep in mind also, a person can add oil coolers behind the other cheek heat exchangers, The possibilities are endless, but the thing to understand is, your car is going to cool down a lot once you have 2 hx independent oil coolers, or even one large cooler will make a huge difference.

http://www.improvedracing.com/oil-co...tat-p-737.html


The deity nose allows air to attack the front bottom HX. The stock fascia can be modified in this area. See the 4th post of this thread for more info on the stock nose.





That is enough for this post, ill write more in a bit, and answer questions for now.

If a person was using a whipple 2.9, they would probably want to use both cheeks for cooling the blower fluid, and i have a hybrid system that is half c7z and half zr1 designed for taking the best advantage of the 3 coolers in the front of the car, while still using blowers that may only have SINGLE pass cooling fluid setups, unlike the zr1 blower which has a 2 pass setup in its stock blower. ..I'll post this up later

jstewart

Interesting

NTMD8R

Hey Mike,
Looking good.
I look forward to hearing more from you (and others) regarding this.

Mikec7z

I should add a couple things, the front of our cars, the lower part of the fascia is blocking the first cooler (or half of it anyway, IF it is tall enough. That part of the fascia can be trimmed in creative ways and holes can be put directly in the front of it, on its lower half, to let air in.

If a person did not want to cut the fascia there, then an extra piece of sheet metal could be angled up at a 45* up and forward, away from the first HX, to catch air and bring it down to the HX.

However, this is where the Deity nose comes into play, it DOES let air in down low, and will feed the HX no problem, especially if it is trimmed up. And that is why i did not elaborate on this much in the first post because that is already where my mind is.

I should also point out something VERY cost effective which i did not elaborate on before...

If a person does not want to do any cheek cooling and keep the stock nose, and ONLY replaced the stock trans cooler with these 2 coolers I have drawn above that are low and in front, in the stock trans cooler's location... those 2 coolers will do more cooling for the trans, than the stock cooler they replace....

(more surface area of metal, more volume of oil in the cooler's at any given time so it will slow down much more and have a chance to cool while it is there as it is split into 2 paths so its flow speed is temporarily halved, and air direction is cooperating with their intended utility)...

...both can be dedicated to the trans. On auto cars, this is important. Meanwhile, a single cooler can be put in the cheek for oil, and another single cooler can be put in the other cheek for the blower water as a second cooler... and one can pursue the "no cut" idea, and keep the stock front end. Gspeed and a couple others have threads with pics depicting the way one would go about this in the cheek areas.

Things I need to know for certain one way or the other...

How much oil pressure is lost utilizing the "improved racing" fitting above, vs a stock vehicle. If someone has this on their car, with a HX in the front of the car, cooling the oil, please let me know the oil pressure drop you have witnessed. The ideal way would be to compare a stock car and a car with this on it, both at the track running hard at the same time, same speed, same time, just following each other around, and compare oil pressure from the 2 cars.

If someone is scared of voiding their warranty and does not want to explain they have added this oil cooler to their vehicle, on a public forum... i understand....

Please PM me and let me know and I will not repeat who you are, I just need factual data on the oil pressure drop from running a front mount oil cooler.

Bill Dearborn

Mike, just a couple of comments. The stock M7s with the secondary radiator laying down in the front of the radiator duct don't really have any coolant or oil temp issues. I wouldn't worry about re-plumbing the oil cooling from the stock setup. The only thing I think that could help the M7 people is to make the intercooler easier to bleed and to add some cooling capacity for those people who run at high rpms on a continual basis.

I did learn something while attending the Woodward Dream Cruise last weekend. I had a discussion with one of the Lingenfelter Engineers about the steps to take in cooling a 15 Z06. When I told him how I used the car and was looking to get better cooling with the intercooler he told me the first thing he would do with the car is swap to the 2017 supercharger with the tilted bricks. He said it really works.

I think changing the oil cooling path from the stock setup risks more from a warranty standpoint than just adding more coolant cooling with extra or larger heat exchangers. If the engine fails due to the bearings being damaged they can easily point to a change in the oil cooler system as the cause of the damage. However, adding more cooling to get the coolant to a lower temp so it can lower the oil temp through the stock method wouldn't be challenged as they can see whether the cooling system has been working as intended.

Bill

Mikec7z

sorry, was out to eat for a bit with some folks...

anyway... i absolutely believe the 17+ blower will further prevent your rear cylinder misfires, it is in the geometry of how it flows the air to the back cylinders that changed the most.

With that said... i almost chose NOT to bring up the negative trade-off you may encounter, as I don't want to talk you out of purchasing the blower and testing it (lets be real, i know where you can get the blower with low miles for under 1,900 bucks, and you probably know where you can find one even cheaper... so worst case, you can always RESELL it later if it does not work out, and you won't lose much money, you might even make some )

I hope you are sitting down for this... you are going to punch me in the face and everyone else is going to start a riot for me going here... we are back to the p0106 code

But, while i was eating with my friends, it gave me time to think of a fair response, and the more i thought about it, the more i realized, you have good odds of not hitting the code... 75% to be exact.

So, there are 2 main options on the table... my theory/understanding and information that was provided to me is correct... or it is wrong.

if it is correct, there are still 2 sub options within that option.

So, the theory... "the reason why the 2017+ vehicles needed the reflash to AVOID the p0106 code is because the different blower causes the car to reach the thresholds of too much air flowing, which GM puts on the cars to sense the smaller pulley and put them into limp mode if they detect that amount of air flowing, thus GM had to raise the limit with the reflash so the code would not throw"

... and since you don't have a 2017+ vehicle, you and I are NOT allowed to get the 17+ reflash, as GM sees no reason since our blower that belongs on our car is the 15/16 blower ... nor do i even know if the reflash works on our cars as i think i remember something about our computers being different or tune completely different? but maybe that is bad info. I don't pay much attention since mine is a 16.

So... lets say I'm wrong and/or the info that was given to me to make me think this is wrong..

which brings us to
Option 1. Then you are good to go, you will further prevent your cylinder misfire/knock with the 17+ blower and race happily (btw, i thought you said the problem was solved with your blower fluid purge? )

Option 2. The blower flows air at a different efficiency/pressure, and you throw the p0106 code anytime you are near sea level at 145mph+

Option 3. The blower flows air at a different efficiency/pressure, and GM noticed, and they were pro-active BEFORE its release and changed the threshold for the P0106 code to throw, making it more sensitive, because they were afraid there was a large enough gap between the previous limit and the car as it sat, and they were worried someone was going to be able to sneak in a more aggressive pulley setup, and spin the blower faster, so they made the code fire SOONER by lowering the limits that had to be reached on the 17s and 18s. THEN, after the release of the vehicle, they noticed it was TOO sensitive, so then they raised the limit back up where it was not hit so easily, with the reflash provided at the dealers. In any event, it means that the blower will be fine on your car, and you wont hit the P0106 code.

Option 2 is the one you have to worry about.

Like i said, i WANT you to put that blower on your car as I believe it WILL solve your issues with the misfire in your rear cylinders, and it will also allow us to get the the bottom of which of the 3 options above, is the correct 1 or 2 perhaps, as we may never narrow down if it is 1 or 3.

As far as lingenfelter goes, they are a great business, but they lost their creativity/understanding of the cars when John died. They stay within the lines so to speak. Everything is data driven with them i feel, very conservative. The lingenfelters who own the company now, are not even from his family, it was another family with the same name who bought it. They are a great business, but i dont find myself learning much from them anymore like when John was alive. But i do agree with their advice to you, and I have actually said that before about the 17+ blower here on the forum, I am surprised honestly that was the first time you had heard this?

Either way, i think it will benefit you and we will get your car working great eventually

atljar

Ken and John lingenfelter are cousins. Same family

Bill Dearborn

Bill

Mikec7z

are you SURE? because ive heard otherwise. Its like one of those... lets get the family tree out situations and prove im related to the queen of england. Either way, im not tribal enough to think it matters one way or the other really if they are or aren't actually related, i think john was the man, and i dont think anyone inside or outside his family is able to push the envelope and innovate like he did. The aftermarket's pace of advancement bothers me. Part of the reason i waited to even THINK about modding a c7 until this last car is because i figured i would give the community time to invent/innovate, and it hasn't been what I hoped it would be.

Ill give you a for instance... i remember vividly, when i was in HS, the c5 came out in 1997 right? it was not a year or 2 later, and lingenfelter had a TWIN TURBO 800hp car (instead of the 350 mind you) on the cover of road and track or one of the like magazines. And they had no competition, no competition of keeping up with the other shops and pushing them there, they went there because he wanted to. The engine was completely reinvented, his creation, the transmission by the guys down the street at RPM, he gave them so much business there in decatur IN, and the axles, the turbos, the headers, the rear diff, the torque tube, the minitub, 345 rear wheels, new front end... ALL OF THAT, in 2 years time from the time the car was released, AND HE WAS CHASING NO OTHER COMPANY, HE JUST DID IT.

By 2000 i think it was, they had the 1300hp world record car, aftermarket bullet looking front end and sleek headlights for higher top speed, etc. Mini tub. 345 tires in the back. Same car as the 800hp car, they just had to figure out the fueling and put on bigger turbos. Think about that... 3 years from the time the c5 was released. and 4x the horsepower as a stock vette.

almost triple the power, and they even put a warranty on it on the 800hp car. The man was intelligent. He asked what was the best possible, and then he would make it happen, and then he would make it reliable. He knew how to make cars fast, and RELIABLE. I am not saying i am a john lingenfelter, but i like to feel like i reason like he did a little more than most... i take the cars out, i run them hard, i find the weakness, and i try to innovate an out of the box solution, and there are other shops who do this as well, and i give them credit... but the innovation that happens these days... its like it is all sub contracted out... we need a bigger fuel pump... we need higher flow injectors... okay here is a new fuel pump and new injectors... good work everybody, oh darn, they dont idle well, i guess we should have realized that first, ah, lets see if people pay 10 grand for it all anyway.

you cant make cars amazing by high fiving each other when they suck and patting yourselves on the back. You have to call a sapde a spade, step 1 is, identify the problem. The car sucks. Why? It overheats, and to make it stop overheating adds a lot of weight and costs a lot of money, and the car is heavy to begin with... this sucks.

i promise if john were around, his cars would not be overheating and port injection would have been out in the year 2015 to assist the direct injection, and he would have had a 1300hp car kit, no questions asked, and it WOULD stay cool. The zr1 front end would have been invented in the year 2015 and it would have had a lingenfelter logo on it. Not taking anything away from gspeed or LG, but john would have made sure lingenfelter was BEATING those companies to victory of keeping these cars cool, and he would have been ASSISTING the gm engineers to run turbos instead of blowers on these cars at a much earlier date, i believe the zr1 would have had turbos instead of the blower, and been around 1000hp, he would have been mocking them saying, guys, common, i had 1300hp back almost 20 years ago... lets go...

And if GM had a choice between lingenfelter and callaway, it would have been a no brainer on who they would do business with, and johns cars would have been so far superior to GM's that the gm engineers idea/plans for the zr1 would have been laughed out of the board room when they compared the stats of what his, already existent kits did, and what the zr1 would do... and they would copy and learn from him and the zr1 would be a much much more impressive vehicle.

And now for the real reality... a corvette would have a faster time around nurburgring than any porsche gt2rs or lambo, and it would have made it happen before either of those did. NEVER were his cars inferior to a STOCK porsche or lambo. Think about that for a bit. a 900hp vette THAT CAN STAY COOL would own the ring... no need to even go to 1300, but he would have done it anyway.

And he would be selling the cars for +200 grand like he used to, and they would be worth it, because they would kill everything else on the street, and would be reliable.

That is my thought.

Again, and i said it to begin with, lingenfelter is a great company, but they are definitely inside the lines, much much more, than when john was alive.

Closest person to him in the market is LG and Gspeed because they addressed the real problem with the cars. I hope Lou does well in germany. I was lucky to know John, i used to spend a lot of time up at Decatur or he would come down and visit us. And now i feel lucky to know Lou. Ive had a good life and it is a small world. I'm thankful for the guys who really push envelopes and make our money have meaning with better inventions and innovations.

Mikec7z

If i were in your shoes, i would wait until the dealer replaces the blower under warranty, that way, if the p0106 code does arise, you can hold their feet to the fire to fix it... and of course your car is under warranty. Unless...

I would check and see what GM's policy is about you adding a 17+ blower if it voids the warranty if you buy it instead of them being forced into doing it due to yours failing. Do they need to see it was bought new? Will you need the receipt? Or would one with less than 1000 miles work for you and they are happy to warranty with the car with that on top? Like i said, i can get you one for under 1900 bucks if you need one.

Worst case... your stock 15 blower eventaully fails... metal down your intake runners into the chamber... and you ruin your motor and get a new 18+ crate motor, and its their fault since you are documented begging for a new blower... so that is a good day

Z06Norway

Respectfully disagree...
My last track day with my 2018 Z06/Z07 M7 did loose power and eventually after 3 15 minute sessions gave up and went into limp mode, temp oil was 310 and water 290. in "cold Norway" summer with 75F .

I am about to sell my second Z06 for a GS...
Its a shame as this Z06 on the street is a blast, so comfortably and nice, and yet a beast....
BUT i do track, and track hard.... and GM should be ashamed for making an under engineered cooling solution.

I am torn to wether try and fix cooling or get a GS with a NA 416 or 427 at 600+ HP.
Less weight and stress on tires, brakes.... well car in general......

One think that puzzles me, is the new radiator oil cooler laying flat in front of radiator... how in the hell does it get cooled ? its boxed in, bottom is completely closed up ?


regards
Rune

Mikec7z

i would love if you kept your Z and found a solution to keep it cool. I realize you already had the warranty assist you (or was it insurance?) either way, i forget if the warranty is voided now that you took it to europe. IF you have no warranty on the car any longer, then I ABSOLUTELY advise you add cooling to the vehicle and you will love it. You seem like a very smart fellow, and part of the fun in owning this cars is upgrading them and making them your own work of art. Heat exchangers are not hard to add, you'll do great

Mikec7z

Norway, i believe you should also make sure there is no air in your system, when the blower pump sees air, it shuts down for 3 min... during those 3 min shutdowns, cars go into limp mode from heat. If you can get that solved, then you will be better off. My other advice is take advantage of the lower rpm torque, don't keep the car near red line... driving this way creates much less heat. Maybe you will be a slight bit slower than you would have been.... but you are still in one of the fastest cars on the track... so why trade out if you can discipline yourself to learn a new driving technique and be faster vs the other car you would go into? Plus, losing the z06, you will lose money buying and selling and SHIPPING

Mikec7z

back to cooling and the oil coolers in the front....

so, tapping into the oil cooling brick location will probably lower engine oil pressure (not a good thing) so a better place to do this for engine safety is at the return oil line back to the tank.

That being said, there are still negative tradeoffs because as Warp mentioned in the gspeed thread, the oil will have a lot of air bubbles in it at that point, so cooling it wont be as efficient as cooling non aerated oil. Regardless, the only other option is to add an auxilary oil pump, and tap my own oil in and out ports into the oil tank itself... and i don't want to mess with another pump and thermostat, i don't believe (perhaps someone can change my mind on why this is a better way to go)

So, with all that said, probably will be tapping into the oil return line back to the tank. Improved Racing still makes the thermostatic valve, but instead of it mounting up under the car in the cooling brick location, it would mount to the oil return line, and it is a 4 way valve.

Anything above 180 degrees, and it sends the oil to the cooler, and anything below 180, and the oil goes back to the tank.

I will have to study the diameter of the oil line and this valve to assure it is not going to be too much restriction (i doubt it, but you never know)

Mikec7z

one will also have to be careful during oil changes, as this oil will need to be drained separately and the car will need to allow the oil to circulate AND the cars oil will need to be above 200F to assure the valve then opens and REFILLS the oil cooler lines and heat exchanger... THEN a person will need to check the oil level AGAIN at the tank, and add more oil.

Bill Dearborn

I wondered that when I installed the GMPP Secondary Radiator in my 2015 Z06. There is a panel about 2 inches below the radiator and if you have the undertray another panel under that one. When I was reassembling everything I noted there was space to the sides of the panel just below the radiator. It looks like the air flows out past the radiator support bars and into the air stream under the car.

As for your over heating I have never come close and that is true of several other people who run faster than I do. I have never seen oil temps above the mid 270s or coolant temps above the mid 220s even in 90 deg ambient temps.

Bill

Bill Dearborn

Rune, do you have PDR data? Maybe there is something in the data or the video that shows what is causing the issue. I doubt the cooling system design is the problem as there are just too many Z06 M7s with and without the secondary radiator that do not have an over heating problem in that ambient temp.

Bill

edster75

Why not remove the stock trans cooler, and install the gm secondary radiator in its place. Then install a trans cooler in the fender like the prospeed oil cooler. The stock trans cooler looks pretty small, as long as the replacement was the same capacity it should work. The car should perform like the M7 car with aux radiator. No hassles with changing the oil cooler either. This probably won't work on heavily modded cars, but should work for the vast majority of cars.

http://www.prospeedautosports.com/pr...-cooler-system

Mikec7z

Probably for all the reasons i took the time to explain in the first post

But simple short answer, you are paying 1400 dollars for an oil cooler that is not even filling the whole area, and i can buy for less than half that dollar amount.

Then there were my points about where the outlets should be on the blower HX to keep them air free. (you see, the cheeks are the best place to FURTHER cool the blower fluid, and that is where those HX will go. MAYBE i put an oil cooler behind those like the zr1 does, but why?... i can put oil coolers where the stock trans cooler is, and an oil cooler in the other cheek if need be... but that price you posted is way out of bounds. 1400 dollars, i can buy 3 heat exchangers, if not more.

Then there were my points about what i would do with the stock trans cooler in the nose's location, and add 2 coolers that will each cool more than that 1 stock one will, so ive gained over double the cooling in that area for whatever fluid/oil i decide to cool with that area. I can also add trans coolers to the rear of the vehicle, and use the front cooler locations for engine oil instead of trans. Regardless, it will be 2 large oil coolers on the front bottom of the nose intake cavity across its entire width, facing into the wind.

Mikec7z

agreed, i think his blower pump is shutting off for 3 min at a time, which is why i mention he should make sure his system is air free.