James Grant

James Grant

I apologize for doing this the way I'm doing it because I couldn't get the pictures to show up somehow anyway if somebody could tell me which two wires I need to use to run to each speaker to each door the speakers were I took the amps out and put Pioneer speakers in but I need to wires to each speaker I'm trying to keep from having to run new wire because it's a real bear thanks

James Grant

There's a blue connector a black connector and a white connector whichever one has wires that I can use to the speakers which ones can I use thanks

RalfKramden

Best way is to use the FSM for the wiring diagram. How I did it follows below.

First you need to cut back the "shielded" wire, leave yourself enough room to solder/crimp on a connector. there are 2 colored wires that are in a connector together

Snip the one that ISN'T the one that matches the connector for your speaker (RF, RR etc) location and that one will connect to the shielded wire you snipped. (according to the radio wiring diagram)

then you'll need to cut the wires at the speaker location and install appropriate terminal ends. If I get a chance later, I'll take photos of the wiring behind my radio to show this.

Most important thing you can do is TAKE YOUR TIME! You may even want to check continuity from the wire to the speaker location ( I did this as a double check)

After looking at your photos again, on that blue connector, you see the shielded wire on top and the blue & yellow below that are connected together. One of those wires you'll be cutting free and connecting

to the shielded wire. Use a DVOM set on continuity and check which speaker location the blue or yellow goes to and then check the wiring diagram of the radio and that will tell you how you connect it.

gpierce

It's in your other thread James.

Front right speaker Lt Grn = Line level "+"
Front right speaker Dk Grn = Line level "-"

Front left speaker Tan = Line level "+"
Front left speaker Grey = Line level "-"

Rear right speaker Dk Blue = Line level "+"
Rear right speaker Lt Blue = Line level "-"

Rear left speaker Brown = Line level "+"
Rear left speaker Yellow = Line level "-"

You'll note that the - for each "speaker" are connected to a single pin at the radio connectors in your pics.I would separate those (cut) if you want to use the factory wiring because otherwise you would connect both speakers to one common -. Many speakers are not meant to share a - connection.

xrav22

I was able to use this to install my stereo

James Grant

glad I kept my tone generator when I retired anyway I cut the 4 wires going to each amp in the front doors, rang out 2 good ones, I didn't only ring them out with my tone generator I also checked the continuity all is good I marked my positive and negative hook my speakers up all I need now is a head unit I went on eBay and found two front boat covers so the system still looks like it has all both speakers but they're pioneer thanks everybody again for the help

LWesthaver

This might be helpful:

BOSE Wiring Info

-Wes

JoeJoeBear

I looked into doing this very thing. Take it from me. Leave the old wiring in there in case anyone ever want to restore it to stock, but just run brand new wiring or pay someone else to do it.

The bose speakers are interesting in that each speaker has its own mini-amplifier right there in its speaker box. What sucks for you is that all the speaker wiring running from the dash head to these amplifiers is very thin gauge. It was just intended to carry the signal to each amplifier which would then deliver the majority of the power right to its adjacent speaker. You can melt these wires if you try to power the speakers over them with a normal amplifier.

And you do need a normal amplifier. If you just try to power it off your stereo head, with most brands you will get a loud "POP!" from the speakers each time the audio stops or is muted. Amplifiers have a dedicated connection for the stereo head to cut power to the speakers when this happens.

Along with an amplifier and thick enough wiring to carry the power of the amplified signal, you also need to wire the amp to a power rail and good ground. Normally this isn't hard in most cars. Just ground it to any steel part of the car body...oh wait 'vettes are made of fiberglass. My stereo guy eventually just ran the amplifier power and ground directly to the proper connection points in the battery bay.

I don't mean to disparage you, but I hate to see anyone else venture down the path of wailing and gnashing of teeth.

gpierce

JoeJoeBear, he has an 88 and it is not correct to say the wiring is very thin gauge and that you can melt them. Maybe our definition of "very thin" is different but even if it is, the amp wires are 16 or 18 gauge (forget which) and are PLENTY large enough to carry a good amplified audio signal and they definitely will not melt Not 100% sure of other bose years, but 88 has wiring plenty capable. I personally ran my own wires, but the ONLY reason I did is that I didn't want to cut the factory harness.