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Switched from 50# McLeod Rxt to Tony Mamo modified RPS BC2 31# clutch and made a decent gain plus the lighter clutch will help it accelerate quicker
Gained 10 hp and 15 tq peak, graph is overlay from this dyno and last dyno in January this year, it’s std so it’s going to read higher than sae but it’s always dynoed on std so shouldn’t affect gains, also there was a problem with graph cutting so you can’t see but pulled it to and set rev limiter to 7800 up from 7600, going to try shifting at 77 instead of 75 since the msd intake seems to never quit pulling!
Hopefully will get it to track soon and see how it does
Solid gain, just a hard pill to swallow price wise. I see those are STD numbers. What were they both SAE so we can truly see the difference.
Excellent before and after documentation!
The gains in power and torque.....specifically addressing the area under the curve gains and the big increase in average power and torque, justify the price of admission alone.
The fact your also getting one of the best shifting clutches on the market that doesnt chatter, reduces shift effort, and offers a handful of other small perks is just bonus!
Also, if you take a closer look there are close to 20 ft/lbs and 20 HP at various points in the curve. The gains in peak numbers dont quite tell the whole story.
Seriously....figure out what you would pay to bump power output like that and your almost paying nothing for the clutch in some respects....I always tell folks they have to view the cost of this clutch as not only the price of a fantastic clutch but also a significant performance upgrade at the same time.
That's what really seals the deal on the true value of the purchase
Btw....the gains SAE are going to be exactly the same.....the comparison would look exactly the same. The SAE numbers would simply be 4% lower across the board (both baseline and after install). If he base lined with the SAE correction and then compared the final numbers with the STD setting that would be bogus and skew the net results. Not the case here.....both baseline and final results were using the same correction factor making the NET gains completely legit.
Hope this helps
OP.....thanks for sharing and taking the time to post
Nice gains! Looking for a similar result. Going from a ls7 clutch (55-60#) to 19# spec twin disk.
You’ll definitely notice the difference removing all that weight from your clutch and your dropping a lot more than me, I saw your build thread and am interested in the results since it’s similar to mine, I have the TEA TFS 215 heads, 59cc, g5x3 cam but on 93 octane
The gains in power and torque.....specifically addressing the area under the curve gains and the big increase in average power and torque, justify the price of admission alone.
The fact your also getting one of the best shifting clutches on the market that doesnt chatter, reduces shift effort, and offers a handful of other small perks is just bonus!
Also, if you take a closer look there are close to 20 ft/lbs and 20 HP at various points in the curve. The gains in peak numbers dont quite tell the whole story.
Seriously....figure out what you would pay to bump power output like that and your almost paying nothing for the clutch in some respects....I always tell folks they have to view the cost of this clutch as not only the price of a fantastic clutch but also a significant performance upgrade at the same time.
That's what really seals the deal on the true value of the purchase
Btw....the gains SAE are going to be exactly the same.....the comparison would look exactly the same. The SAE numbers would simply be 4% lower across the board (both baseline and after install). If he base lined with the SAE correction and then compared the final numbers with the STD setting that would be bogus and skew the net results. Not the case here.....both baseline and final results were using the same correction factor making the NET gains completely legit.
Hope this helps
OP.....thanks for sharing and taking the time to post
-Tony
Thanks for the great clutch Tony!
Regardless of the dyno readings, sae, std, or whatever, the car is faster with this clutch, feels like it has a different gear in it, put the break in miles on it, tuned it and took to track last night (1/8 mile) with no real seat time on it, only got a couple passes in and I’ll have to get a few runs to figure it out but best mph before clutch was 103.9 which I’ve ran several times, 2nd pass I ran 104.7 so that’s a pretty good pick up in mph in 1/8 mile, goal is to run 6.60’s at 105mph stock bottom end ls6 n/a, I’ve almost got the 105 and need about a tenth and a half to run 6.60’s and I think this clutch will help me get there!
The lightweight clutches are something I never really thought or new about till I saw some of Tony’s ls7 builds but highly recommend them to anyone wanting to get the max out of their setup especially an n/a setup like mine
Wow, that’s awesome! I’ve been clutch shopping for a while and I’ve just recently decided to go with this one.... my stock clutch is at its limit and gets soft with multiple high rpm shifts and I’m planning on adding more power so this winter one of these RPS clutches with aluminum flywheel is going in..... hope to have similar gains as you! Thanks for posting, I had no idea a good clutch upgrade would give you any gains
I had no idea a good clutch upgrade would give you any gains
On dynos that vary the load, so the pull takes the same amount of time regardless of horsepower, you won't see any gain.
On dynos that work by measuring the amount of time it takes for the car to accelerate the rollers, you will see a gain because power that was being used to accelerate the clutch is now accelerating the rollers. I think that's how Dynojets work. It's definitely how the real world works. It's also why race cars use little tiny multi-disc clutches.
Wow, that’s awesome! I’ve been clutch shopping for a while and I’ve just recently decided to go with this one.... my stock clutch is at its limit and gets soft with multiple high rpm shifts and I’m planning on adding more power so this winter one of these RPS clutches with aluminum flywheel is going in..... hope to have similar gains as you! Thanks for posting, I had no idea a good clutch upgrade would give you any gains
Are you going with the Mamo version? I never knew about the lightweight clutches till I saw someone’s build that seem to have high dyno numbers then saw where they had a 20# clutch that’s when I started to look into it and advantages of a lighter clutch and it really doesn’t drive that much different than the rxt, I think you’ll like the clutch look forward to some reviews
I just had Mamo's version installed in my car (picked it up late Friday). It's low-30s pounds if I remember right. It takes a little more care when starting from a stop, but it's no big deal.
I just had Mamo's version installed in my car (picked it up late Friday). It's low-30s pounds if I remember right. It takes a little more care when starting from a stop, but it's no big deal.
Good to see others using this clutch I’ve only seen it mentioned in the c6 section on some of Mamo’s ls7 builds
You’ll definitely notice the difference removing all that weight from your clutch and your dropping a lot more than me, I saw your build thread and am interested in the results since it’s similar to mine, I have the TEA TFS 215 heads, 59cc, g5x3 cam but on 93 octane
Awesome gains!!! Hopefully I see somewhere around the same as you. I am moving from a 44lb RPS twin carbon to hopefully a 32-34lb BC3 after Tony's magic. I wont be able to do a true comparison like you though since I'm going to 2in primary headers and going back to a 3.42 rear from my current 4.10s at the same time as the clutch swap.
Are you going with the Mamo version? I never knew about the lightweight clutches till I saw someone’s build that seem to have high dyno numbers then saw where they had a 20# clutch that’s when I started to look into it and advantages of a lighter clutch and it really doesn’t drive that much different than the rxt, I think you’ll like the clutch look forward to some reviews
I’ll go with whichever one the shop recommends but I want the lightest possible because with my 432hp/396tq I’m trying to shave as much weight as possible while still being a “nice” car. I’m wanting to delete ac parts and air pump also to shave 40-44 lbs from the front end - I never use the ac anyways and it’s dead weight that’s also blocking airflow to the radiator.
Is there a specific RPS clutch you’d recommend I go with?
I’ll go with whichever one the shop recommends but I want the lightest possible because with my 432hp/396tq I’m trying to shave as much weight as possible while still being a “nice” car. I’m wanting to delete ac parts and air pump also to shave 40-44 lbs from the front end - I never use the ac anyways and it’s dead weight that’s also blocking airflow to the radiator.
Is there a specific RPS clutch you’d recommend I go with?
Getting a light clutch isn't right for every application....Im very knowledgeable on manually shifted hot rods and have driven countless number of clutches both old school and new school (My first hotrod was a four speed manual Chevelle back in 1980!)
There is no one size clutch fits all. Application, engine size, gearing and the car's curb weight are all important parameters but the biggest variable is the type of driver you are also. You can't be a "lazy shifter" and lug a lighter weight clutch around slow corners at low RPM for example.....it doesnt have the inertia so while my modded BC2 is an incredible clutch its not necessarily the right clutch for everyone (some customers I purposely put into a heavier RPS offering that's in the low 40 lb range.....still a bunch lighter than stock and an excellent driving clutch.....just offers a little more inertia for a slightly more conservative driver).
Feel free to contact me if your looking to purchase of need some additional info regarding clutches and whats right for you.
Originally Posted by 95vettski
Where does this clutch engage? bottom, middle, top?
Much closer to the top due to its very clean disengagement (no dragging makes for much easier shifts with a lot less effort from the shift lever). These clutches are best utilized with an adjustable clutch stop so you drive it more normal without a bunch of needless extra travel.....its nice driving around town and only needing a couple of inches of clutch travel for a super clean shift (if that). Also when racing with an adjustable clutch stop your shifting alot faster due to alot less pedal travel....its really awesome once you get used to it.
Cheers,
Tony
PS.....Video of me grabbing some gears in what is essentially a prototype version of the clutch being discussed in this thread (this video is over a decade old). We used my personal C5 for alot of the R&D these clutches went through to get to where they sit today. Its so refined now and really transforms the entire driving experience. While Im pretty good at driving a manual trans car you just cant shift this quickly with a conventional clutch in the car (you will hit the dreaded "shift wall" and not pull off the shift not to mention kill your synchro rings trying....LOL). Check out the vid.....Im not power shifting btw...still lifting the throttle between gears as my clutch pedal hits the stop signaling its time to do both (grab the gear and quickly lift and reapply throttle)
Much closer to the top due to its very clean disengagement (no dragging makes for much easier shifts with a lot less effort from the shift lever). These clutches are best utilized with an adjustable clutch stop so you drive it more normal without a bunch of needless extra travel.....its nice driving around town and only needing a couple of inches of clutch travel for a super clean shift (if that). Also when racing with an adjustable clutch stop your shifting alot faster due to alot less pedal travel....its really awesome once you get used to it.
Getting a light clutch isn't right for every application....Im very knowledgeable on manually shifted hot rods and have driven countless number of clutches both old school and new school (My first hotrod was a four speed manual Chevelle back in 1980!)
There is no one size clutch fits all. Application, engine size, gearing and the car's curb weight are all important parameters but the biggest variable is the type of driver you are also. You can't be a "lazy shifter" and lug a lighter weight clutch around slow corners at low RPM for example.....it doesnt have the inertia so while my modded BC2 is an incredible clutch its not necessarily the right clutch for everyone (some customers I purposely put into a heavier RPS offering that's in the low 40 lb range.....still a bunch lighter than stock and an excellent driving clutch.....just offers a little more inertia for a slightly more conservative driver).
Feel free to contact me if your looking to purchase of need some additional info regarding clutches and whats right for you.
im going to have DRM install it and I was thinking either Street Twin Carbon or street Twin Carbon Lite. I do not drag race or track it, I do a mile event once or twice a year but mostly canyon carving and spirited cruises. I may start tracking at some point but mostly a “street” car. I will probably have DRM do 4.10 gears also on my H/C/I/E 2003 6 speed coupe (433 rwhp / 396 tq).
should I stick with Street Twin Carbon or would the Street twin Lite be a good option? Trying to shave weight so I can stay na and still be fast
09-13-2018, 11:58 PM
Mamo rps bc2 clutch gains 10/15
It's also why race cars use little tiny multi-disc clutches.
