Mark Coats

My friend has an 07 c6. For 6 months the windows was not working and it got rained in again and again, and the doors stopped working. Neither of the doors would open, so I took the outside switches off and cleaned them using brake cleaner. The doors now open, inside and out. However now the drivers side door will not open from the inside. This is intermittent, and I noticed that it will open once the window rolls all the way up (the last half inch when the door closes). But this can take anywhere from as soon as the door closes to an hour or more for the window to "realize" that it has closed. I switched out the passenger and driver I inside door switches, but the passenger side still works and the driver side still doesn't. So I'm thinking it has something to do with the door and not the switch. Any advise? I have tried reindexing the windows by holding up for 3 seconds, releasing, and holding up again .

Edit: the window was just left down, it was and has always worked up until this point. Could it be the driver side outside switch I cleaned? The plate fixed to the soft part where you push was not connected, and it moved around when I pit it back, so maybe it got shifted and is making/ not making a connection?

Dano523

C6 door wiring harness, and notice that the two end plugs are for the door pull pad, and the inner button, and do a splice joint of the two about half way back.



So if out pad works, inner button is fine (swap the out between the doors to be dam sure), but does not work, the problem is in the wiring from the button connector to splice joint of the harness somewhere.

If it is the button the problem, easy enough to pull it apart to clean the contacts.
Attachment 48339194
Attachment 48342589

Mark Coats

thank you for the response dano. I have switched the inner switches, about 4 times now haha. To reiterate, the door will not open from the inside ONLY WHEN the window does not properly index (go up the last half inch, idk if I am using the term correctly). If the window goes up the door works fine from inside. Also, the door ALWAYS opens from the outside. I will try cleaning the inside switch again, maybe I wasn't detailed enough last time, but do you really think the switch could cause the window to not roll up properly?
Thanks again,
Mark

Dano523

Kind of lost of what you mean by index. When you push the door release button with the window all the way up, the window should lower about a inch, then the door unlocks.

To re-index the windows if say your disconnect the battery cables, roll the window all the way up, release the window button, then pull it like your trying to roll the window up more for about three seconds, and you should hear a click in the door of the window regulator re indexing. Do one window at a time, and make sure they are both re-indexed to start with. Now when you push the door release button with the window all the way up, the window should roll down about a inch so is clearing the top seal, then the door should unlock.

As for the door release button, you have to break it down to get to both the board contacts, and the rubber part contacts to clean all 4 points. Hence Q tips and some spray contact cleaner until they are gleaming copper.

Mark Coats

I'm trying to say that when you close the door, sometimes the window will not roll up the last half inch to properly seal against the door, and when that happens you cannot open the door from the inside. You can still open it from the outside however. This happened with both the driver switch, and the passenger switch when I swapped them. So I believe it has something to do with the door, not the switch, but I will try re cleaning the switch. I completely disassembled the inside and outside switch and cleaned them, but I will do it again to the inside switch, to make sure it is not the problem.

Dano523

If button is working to unlatch the B column latch, but the window is not indexing down to begin with and the window has be re indexed, then you have a problem with the window regulator, or the wiring harness to it instead.

As stated, Door switch sends the signal to the BCM, then the BCM send the signal to the window regulator to index the window down, then to the B colum latch to unlatch the door next.

Mark Coats

thank you for the clarification. This is getting worse and worse haha. I really hope its not the regulator. Like I said before sometimes it works correctly (the window indexing back up when the door closes). I'm hoping that this means it is a wiring problem, not the regulator going bad.
Thanks again,
Mark

One more thing: the windows ALWAYS rolls all the way up, but it can take a long time.
For example, I can get in the car, close the door, the window will not seal, and 5+ minutes later it will suddenly go up like you just closed the door.
No struggling or whirring can be heard (like the regulator is struggling to roll tjr window up), it just suddenly goes up. This can be anywhere from one minute to 20 or 30 minutes.
And other times, the window will seal properly as soon as the door closes.

Dano523

May be time to pull the panel, and at least grease the cable/tracks, and clean the regulator plug.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...placement.html

Mark Coats

Dano523
I've come back, after reading the thread over again I noticed you mentioned the wiring path, switch to BCM to regulator, then to b column latch. So, based on what I have said, do you think it could be the BCM? Is it more likely to be the BCM or window regulator?
While on this subject, I should mention that the car has had some other electrical issues, but I'm not sure what they are, I've just been told the car sometimes would behave weird or not work electrically.

So far, to recap
0. Car doors won't open, both windows work correctly.
1. I cleaned driver and passenger outside switches, both doors will now open from outside. At this point is when the driver window started acting up.
2. I cleaned and switched inside switches, passenger door will open from inside, driver will not.
3. I again switched the inside switches. No difference.
4. I disconnected the battery for an hour, put it back on and reindexed both windows, no difference.

So it seems to to be an issue of either the wiring, BCM, or regulator, because both inside and outside switches from the passenger door (working) don't work on the driver door, and the switches from the driver door do work on the passenger door.

Dano523

Door button problem sounds like a wiring/connector/ground splice block problem, and the window problem sounds like a dry cable or roller in the door regulator assembly isntead.



Here is the one liner for the door button so you can trace the wires to find the problem.
Look center of page, then just to the left center and you will pick up the drivers door button (the exterior pull pad is to the far left of the page center isntead.

http://www.mediafire.com/file/mjq20o...agram.pdf/file

So black wire goes through C555 connector, then the Splice block S539, before it his the G201 ground point,
Bn wire goes through the same C555 connector before it his the DMM to index the windows.
OG wire goes through both the C555 and the C501 connector before it his the RCDLR to unlock the door.
Note, RCDLR send the signal to the BCM via the GM lan bus. So since the car is starting, GM lan bus from RCDLR to BCM is fine. And since the ext pull pad is working to open the door on RCDLR C1 once BCM approves, would dare to guess that the RCDLR is fine as well.

So if the window does not index down, nor the door unlatches, would dare to guess a ground wire problem on the Bk wire to ground that is preventing both from happening.

If window will index down, but not unlock the door latch, trace the OG wire.

murrayAZ

So Mark and Dano -
I have a 2011 and its doing exactly as described. Outside works fine for the drivers door but the inside button is dead. I have bough new inside button and replaced. I have replaced the actuator. This is a convertible so the window will go down a quarter of an inch to open. When door shuts the window will not go back up for a few mins. I got to believe its electrical at this point but not sure to look - any suggestions on what to replace next?

Harv22

I have the exact same problem on my 2005. It is intermittent. It is a pain in the *** when I go to the car wash. I have to drive around till I hear the window go up. If I stop somewhere and it hasnt gone up I have to use the latch on the floor.