[C1] RELOADED - 327 block with 283 heads and Lar's timing procedure
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
RELOADED - 327 block with 283 heads and Lar's timing procedure
For all those that read my previous post questioning if my 327 block with 283 heads were causing engine pinging as I was following the Lar's procedure that stated to set the total timing to 36-degrees at 2400rpm's and it wasn't working. I had the post deleted cause it turned into personal attacks having nothing to do with the subject matter.
The THREAD wasn't about how to solve the pinging...anyone with basic engine knowledge would know it was too far advanced.
At the time I could find the document, but now that I have my generator back in the car and it's up and running, I decided to check the timing again....and guess what, I ran into the same article where it states to set the total timing at 36-degrees at 2400rpm's....Here it is;
https://www.digitalcorvettes.com/for...ad.php?t=75830
Not trusting it, I found on this forum where Lar's is recommending that it come it at around 3000rpms...
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...verything.html
I set mine to come in at 3200...and the pinging stopped. So, the reason for this tread is to-fold...to provide the document(s) and to also let people know that the pinging had nothing to do with having a 327 block with 283 heads.
The THREAD wasn't about how to solve the pinging...anyone with basic engine knowledge would know it was too far advanced.
At the time I could find the document, but now that I have my generator back in the car and it's up and running, I decided to check the timing again....and guess what, I ran into the same article where it states to set the total timing at 36-degrees at 2400rpm's....Here it is;
https://www.digitalcorvettes.com/for...ad.php?t=75830
Not trusting it, I found on this forum where Lar's is recommending that it come it at around 3000rpms...
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...verything.html
I set mine to come in at 3200...and the pinging stopped. So, the reason for this tread is to-fold...to provide the document(s) and to also let people know that the pinging had nothing to do with having a 327 block with 283 heads.
#2
Le Mans Master
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Thanks for the update. Now it is time to enjoy your car.
I have struggled with obtaining the 34 - 36 degrees total mechanical advance while still retaining an initial advance of 8 to 12 degrees and thus easy starting. I have a drawer full of weights, springs, and bushings as It seems to take different components depending on the year of the distributor. I am no Lars and don't profess to being an expert.
I have struggled with obtaining the 34 - 36 degrees total mechanical advance while still retaining an initial advance of 8 to 12 degrees and thus easy starting. I have a drawer full of weights, springs, and bushings as It seems to take different components depending on the year of the distributor. I am no Lars and don't profess to being an expert.
#3
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Thanks for the update. Now it is time to enjoy your car.
I have struggled with obtaining the 34 - 36 degrees total mechanical advance while still retaining an initial advance of 8 to 12 degrees and thus easy starting. I have a drawer full of weights, springs, and bushings as It seems to take different components depending on the year of the distributor. I am no Lars and don't profess to being an expert.
I have struggled with obtaining the 34 - 36 degrees total mechanical advance while still retaining an initial advance of 8 to 12 degrees and thus easy starting. I have a drawer full of weights, springs, and bushings as It seems to take different components depending on the year of the distributor. I am no Lars and don't profess to being an expert.
If not and for anyone not familiar with the document, here are the steps in easy to follow format.
This assumes you have not modified your engine such as high performance cam.
1. Remove the springs from the distributor
2. Unplug the vacuum hose from the vacuum advance
3. Set your timing light to 36-degrees advance (for anyone that doesn't have an adjustable timing light....get one)
4. Start your engine and rev it up (don't have to rev up very much) until the timing mark will stops moving (at this point the mechanical advance is pegged-out)
5. At this same RPM rotate your distributor until the timing mark is at zero
6. Stop the engine and tighten-up the distributor bolt so that it doesn't move
7. Select a combination of springs so that when you rev up your engine at around 3000rpm's, the timing mark is at zero and the timing mark will not move regardless how you increase the RPM's. You can mix/match springs.
8. Reattach your vacuum hose and test out your car....you should be good to go.
Last edited by jusplainwacky; 09-23-2018 at 01:37 PM.
#4
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I’ve removed all the conflict posts. Please don’t repeat them; I don’t care who starts it.
This includes little digs here or in any other thread. Move on.
This includes little digs here or in any other thread. Move on.
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jusplainwacky (09-23-2018)
#5
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You have to set total WOT advance ABOVE the point (RPM) of maximum centrifugal, which on OE distributors varies from 2350 to 5100, and since a lot of centrifugal curves have been modified you have to first determine the point of maximum centrifugal for the individual engine, and then set total WOT advance a few hundred revs above this rev level.
I think a lot of guys miss this point because they read stuff on the Web that says "set at 3000" or some other arbitrary RPM. If you set total WOT advance below the RPM of max centrifugal advance the engine will be over advanced, and this often shows up as detonation.
Duke
I think a lot of guys miss this point because they read stuff on the Web that says "set at 3000" or some other arbitrary RPM. If you set total WOT advance below the RPM of max centrifugal advance the engine will be over advanced, and this often shows up as detonation.
Duke