[Z06] C6 Z06 Cam swap timing help?
#1
C6 Z06 Cam swap timing help?
Currently doing a cam swap on a c6 z06 and ill start of by saying I didn't remove the oil pump therefore I couldn't see the timing tick on the crankshaft. I just turned the crankshaft until the cam sprocket timing tick was pointing down at 6 o'clock. When I did that, the cam shaft pin that sticks out through the cam gear was located in the three o'clock position. My question is, if the tick on the cam sprocket was facing down at 6 o'clock, then the tick on the crankshaft can only be at the 12 o'clock position, right?
#2
Pro
Not worth taking the risk, it can be off by a tooth and you won’t be able to tell. I’d loosen the pan then remove the pump to be safe. You’ve gone that far might aswell do it right.
#3
so say i take the pump off and the tick seems to be slightly off but ive already taken the cam sprocket out and changed the cam, how do I fix the timing?
#5
If I don't have the heads off, how would I verify piston 1 at TDC? Would putting in a long screwdriver into the sparkplug hole and turning the crank until the screwdriver doesnt move inward anymore?
#7
#9
Melting Slicks
i just did this last weekend and didnt have any issues getting the pump off and then back on. its just important that you get the gears in the oil pump in the correct location before sliding it back on. that is what makes a world of diff IMO.
the cam retainer torqx bolts are what fought me till then END lol
1 out of the 4 came out no problem....the other 3 had to be drilled out and it was a horrible experience. took 5 hrs to get to he retainer plate, and entire day to get the the cam out after running around getting bolt extractors and prepping the front to ensure that no metal shavings get inside the oil pan/engine.
the cam retainer torqx bolts are what fought me till then END lol
1 out of the 4 came out no problem....the other 3 had to be drilled out and it was a horrible experience. took 5 hrs to get to he retainer plate, and entire day to get the the cam out after running around getting bolt extractors and prepping the front to ensure that no metal shavings get inside the oil pan/engine.
Last edited by ~STOLEN~; 09-24-2018 at 10:13 AM.
#10
i just did this last weekend and didnt have any issues getting the pump off and then back on. its just important that you get the gears in the oil pump in the correct location before sliding it back on. that is what makes a world of diff IMO.
the cam retainer torqx bolts are what fought me till then END lol
1 out of the 4 came out no problem....the other 3 had to be drilled out and it was a horrible experience. took 5 hrs to get to he retainer plate, and entire day to get the the cam out after running around getting bolt extractors and prepping the front to ensure that no metal shavings get inside the oil pan/engine.
the cam retainer torqx bolts are what fought me till then END lol
1 out of the 4 came out no problem....the other 3 had to be drilled out and it was a horrible experience. took 5 hrs to get to he retainer plate, and entire day to get the the cam out after running around getting bolt extractors and prepping the front to ensure that no metal shavings get inside the oil pan/engine.
#11
This shouldn't ruin any kind of seal or gasket on the oil pan right, do I even need to take the oil pump off completely to see the tick on the crankshaft?
#13
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Z0HM6 (09-24-2018)
#15
So I undid the oil pan bolts to barely pull out the pump. Didn't ruin the gasket, got the timing aligned, now when i've gone to tighten down the oil pan there is oil seeping from somewhere and collecting where the oilpan and bell housing meet. Any ideas? I've only torqued down the two rear oil pan bolts and the rest are hand tight. timing cover is still off.
#16
Melting Slicks
that sucks, all that work to avoid ripping a gasket to avoid a leak.....and you just traded a front timing cover leak for a rear pan gasket leak LOL
i swear, sometimes these cars are just here to test us......maybe spray a little parts cleaner on a micro fiber, reach in there and wipe the oil clean and squeeze a TAD of gasket maker across the back of the oil pan/gasket and tighted it up.
maybe it will work, worth a shot anyhow
i swear, sometimes these cars are just here to test us......maybe spray a little parts cleaner on a micro fiber, reach in there and wipe the oil clean and squeeze a TAD of gasket maker across the back of the oil pan/gasket and tighted it up.
maybe it will work, worth a shot anyhow
#17
that sucks, all that work to avoid ripping a gasket to avoid a leak.....and you just traded a front timing cover leak for a rear pan gasket leak LOL
i swear, sometimes these cars are just here to test us......maybe spray a little parts cleaner on a micro fiber, reach in there and wipe the oil clean and squeeze a TAD of gasket maker across the back of the oil pan/gasket and tighted it up.
maybe it will work, worth a shot anyhow
i swear, sometimes these cars are just here to test us......maybe spray a little parts cleaner on a micro fiber, reach in there and wipe the oil clean and squeeze a TAD of gasket maker across the back of the oil pan/gasket and tighted it up.
maybe it will work, worth a shot anyhow
#18
Melting Slicks
VERY true......it is a pretty big deal when you get the timing wrong...(ask me how i know) we set one 180 deg out one time (long story, 2am, beer was involved LOL), and when the engine turned over it snapped every valve. BUT all the crap aside, a very nice engine was built after that LOL
keep us posted on it, maybe snap and post a pic when you have time
keep us posted on it, maybe snap and post a pic when you have time
#19
VERY true......it is a pretty big deal when you get the timing wrong...(ask me how i know) we set one 180 deg out one time (long story, 2am, beer was involved LOL), and when the engine turned over it snapped every valve. BUT all the crap aside, a very nice engine was built after that LOL
keep us posted on it, maybe snap and post a pic when you have time
keep us posted on it, maybe snap and post a pic when you have time
When I cleaned the area with brake cleaner and let it sit
Several hours later after cleaning
#20
Melting Slicks
so is the car running and off the jack stands now?
could it be excess that was sitting in the bell housing and after it was taken off jack stands/moved the oil is running fwd out of that little area??
could it be excess that was sitting in the bell housing and after it was taken off jack stands/moved the oil is running fwd out of that little area??