[Z06] Piston only rebuild
#1
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Piston only rebuild
Trying to decide on my next step with my motor. Leaning towards keeping the stock rods and crank and adding forged pistons. I was looking at Diamond pistons as it seems a lot of people have good results with them. A buddy mentioned to me that he had 2 motors that lost 30hp going to the Diamond pistons with the supplied steel rings. This is definitely something I am not willing to sacrifice. So, I'm going to be looking at other brands/ring packages.
Basically looking to maximize HP, naturally aspirated. I will be spraying, up to, a 250hp shot of nitrous on top of that every now and then.
Things I will be going to:
LS9 oil pump
Improved Racing crank scraper
Johnson ST2116LSR
New custom cam
PAC 1207x spring kit
Monster LT1-RR clutch
Keeping:
LME stock ported heads
ARH 1-7/8" (willing be upgrading to 2" when I can)
ATI UD balancer
GZ vacuum pump
Holley Hi Ram
Does anyone have any comparisons from stock to just pistons? Any power loss? What brand pistons did you go with?
Basically looking to maximize HP, naturally aspirated. I will be spraying, up to, a 250hp shot of nitrous on top of that every now and then.
Things I will be going to:
LS9 oil pump
Improved Racing crank scraper
Johnson ST2116LSR
New custom cam
PAC 1207x spring kit
Monster LT1-RR clutch
Keeping:
LME stock ported heads
ARH 1-7/8" (willing be upgrading to 2" when I can)
ATI UD balancer
GZ vacuum pump
Holley Hi Ram
Does anyone have any comparisons from stock to just pistons? Any power loss? What brand pistons did you go with?
#2
Team Owner
Talk to your engine place about what you want. Almost all the high end shops are using custom pistons for your application. Who actually makes the pistons doesn't matter that much anymore, it is the design/setup of the piston.
The following users liked this post:
jayyyw (10-15-2018)
#5
Everyone on the forums told me I would lose n/a power going with forged rotating assembly, I went with callies crank, callies rods, wiesco pistons and my car definitely doesn't feel sluggish or slower, I did increase c/I also, but as you know my car made great power, and pulls like crazy!
#6
I bought these CP pistons and they come with rings and pins. https://www.cnc-motorsports.com/bls1...re-11-3-1.html
If I had to buy pistons again, I would probably consider these Mahle pistons because of the smaller ring package. https://www.texas-speed.com/p-6251-m...ength-3cc.aspx
If I had to buy pistons again, I would probably consider these Mahle pistons because of the smaller ring package. https://www.texas-speed.com/p-6251-m...ength-3cc.aspx
#7
Instructor
I had diamond forged pistons on otherwise stock rebuild. They were 19 grams lighter than stock per piston IIRC. I specifically chose ones lighter than stock. Car made 611/519 went 169 mph in the half mile from a standing start on 93 full weight. I'd have to look for the PN but they were 4.130" so .005" overbore, 428 cubic inch.
#8
Burning Brakes
Piston weight is critical and some are lighter than stock.
Look for options like Gas porting, NPR top ring/ss and Napier second. Stick with 1.5mm compression ring package. Gas porting with the right ring package may be worth 10+RWHP over non-gas port.
Bump the CR to >13:1 and you will be fine.
I assume you are going to sleeve the block since you are talking about a 250 shot? If so, I would also go for a 4.155 bore: unsurround the valves (most important exhaust valve), you will gain CFM there and that equals HP.
If you are keeping the stock sleeves then you will be limited at 4.130 bore, and I dont know about a 250 shot then.
Look for options like Gas porting, NPR top ring/ss and Napier second. Stick with 1.5mm compression ring package. Gas porting with the right ring package may be worth 10+RWHP over non-gas port.
Bump the CR to >13:1 and you will be fine.
I assume you are going to sleeve the block since you are talking about a 250 shot? If so, I would also go for a 4.155 bore: unsurround the valves (most important exhaust valve), you will gain CFM there and that equals HP.
If you are keeping the stock sleeves then you will be limited at 4.130 bore, and I dont know about a 250 shot then.
#9
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Everyone on the forums told me I would lose n/a power going with forged rotating assembly, I went with callies crank, callies rods, wiesco pistons and my car definitely doesn't feel sluggish or slower, I did increase c/I also, but as you know my car made great power, and pulls like crazy!
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finnfjr (10-16-2018)
#10
Thanks man!, it's a pretty basic setup that works! My tuner is willing to do the back to back testing if I throw a hi ram on the car, he's convinced we should see 700whp n/a, he covers the dyno time and tuning but i have to supply intake and cut my cowl lol
Last edited by Jwwesttx; 10-15-2018 at 05:31 PM.
#12
haha doing it isn't the poblem, buying the intake and getting it setup with my direct port setup and all that, that's the problem, I might eventually give it a shot if I can find a good deal on a hi ram
#14
Burning Brakes
I second Lamboworld on the Mahle pistons he linked until I read you want to do a 250 shot. Those pistons are 4032 alloy and most would agree that you want 2618 for boost and/or nitrous. If you go the nitrous route the weakest link now becomes the OEM cylinder liners, and personally, I would not run nitrous on stock liners. In all other respects, the Mahle #LS7181130F03 are perfect for your objectives having a 1mm, 1mm, 2mm ring set. I would have the piston pins DLC coated and call it a day.
If I had to buy pistons again, I would probably consider these Mahle pistons because of the smaller ring package. https://www.texas-speed.com/p-6251-m...ength-3cc.aspx
#15
Burning Brakes
I second Lamboworld on the Mahle pistons he linked until I read you want to do a 250 shot. Those pistons are 4032 alloy and most would agree that you want 2618 for boost and/or nitrous. If you go the nitrous route the weakest link now becomes the OEM cylinder liners, and personally, I would not run nitrous on stock liners. In all other respects, the Mahle #LS7181130F03 are perfect for your objectives having a 1mm, 1mm, 2mm ring set. I would have the piston pins DLC coated and call it a day.
Last edited by rio95; 10-15-2018 at 08:46 PM.
#16
Melting Slicks
For a piston only rebuild it would be nice to have a Mahle piston as they are excellent quality. That's odd that you heard that Diamond pistons can lose 30hp, I suppose if the wall finish sucks. Because you'll be spraying it you'll want some strength in the design. I can't imagine you losing any hp if you use a premier engine shop like HPR. They'll ensure a correct wall finish I'm sure. Seems that almost all 2618 forgings can be made to be about 440 grams so there isn't alot of advantage to a 4032 forging aside from cold start noise. It's probably best to work with the engine builder on piston selection since they will be the ones fitting it all together.
You could also consider a lower tension ring design because you have a vacuum pump now, but this might be a no no with nitrous engines, don't know.
You could also consider a lower tension ring design because you have a vacuum pump now, but this might be a no no with nitrous engines, don't know.
#17
I just did damn near exactly what your looking at doing, kept factory crank and had it polished, kept Ti rods and used a Racetec 2816 flat top piston and got an 11.22:1 ratio. Balanced and honed with torque plate replaced all bearing with Clevite coated, ARP main studs and ARP 2000 cracked rod bolts. I went with Racetec because they had a piston specifically made for guys keeping the shorter factory Ti rods, from what I’ve been told here and what I’ve read all the after market forged pistons are solid. My engine builder also liked Racetec so that’s what helped me pull the trigger on the Racetec pistons. Their flat top also gave me an ideal compression ration for boosted LS7’s. They are light though don’t have the exact weight on hand but I can get it if need be. I sincerely hope you build goes better than mine cause it was a complete nightmare, when I post the rebuild thread I’ll go into detail about some of the ridiculous **** I’ve had to endure. Good luck bro! 🤔
#18
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Thanks for all the replies. I made this thread a little pre-maturely. I decided to have a shortblock built instead of going with a rebuild. Got a quote from HPR already. Waiting for a few more. Will likely have my shortblock pulled out this weekend. If any one is looking or knows someone looking for a stock shortblock, LMK. 43K miles, no knock, smoke, and made 646whp just last week.
#19
Thanks for all the replies. I made this thread a little pre-maturely. I decided to have a shortblock built instead of going with a rebuild. Got a quote from HPR already. Waiting for a few more. Will likely have my shortblock pulled out this weekend. If any one is looking or knows someone looking for a stock shortblock, LMK. 43K miles, no knock, smoke, and made 646whp just last week.