Brake replacement clips
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Brake replacement clips
i am installing a new caliper and saw a video where they had a metal clip to hold the piston while you slide the pads into place. Has any one seen these clips? I’m Not looking for a compression tool. This held the pistons while you installed the pad and then you pull the clip out. This is the video I was watching.
Last edited by wowed777; 10-15-2018 at 05:35 PM. Reason: Added video clip
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wowed777 (10-15-2018)
#3
Burning Brakes
Just cut a piece of wood a little thicker than the rotor thickness and slip it between the pads when you replace them. Then as you slide the caliper over the rotor, the wood will slip out as the caliper is set into place. No need to spend money on something you can make at home. Good luck.
Duane
Duane
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Primoz (10-18-2018)
#4
Instructor
Thread Starter
Pics
YES...thank you!!,
It took me forever to get the hard line in bolted. My first caliper replacement. I’m having my challenges, but I’m making progress. Can’t wait to get it back togther and back on the road. I love when it has new parts.
It took me forever to get the hard line in bolted. My first caliper replacement. I’m having my challenges, but I’m making progress. Can’t wait to get it back togther and back on the road. I love when it has new parts.
Last edited by wowed777; 10-15-2018 at 07:27 PM. Reason: Updated with pics
#6
Team Owner
You don't really need those clips. In fact, you don't even want them. Many folks make the mistake of pushing the 'excess' fluid behind the piston back into the master cylinder. But this is almost always old and contaminated fluid. Over the years, DOT 3 fluid absorbs some water; that water causes some rusting in the brake lines (maybe minor, but there); and both that rust and the water contaminate the fluid in the lines.
The best way to purge the system of old/contaminated fluid is to crack open the bleeder[s] on that caliper, THEN push the piston back--expelling the old fluid--and lock down the bleeder[s] just before hitting bottom...thus no excess air in the system If you do this just before you install the caliper back on the car, you can stick the new pads in place and slip the whole assembly over the rotor. Some folks still want a "spacer"; if you want one, find those clips or just make up a wooden piece of the needed thickness which can be pulled out as the pads go over the rotor.
The best way to purge the system of old/contaminated fluid is to crack open the bleeder[s] on that caliper, THEN push the piston back--expelling the old fluid--and lock down the bleeder[s] just before hitting bottom...thus no excess air in the system If you do this just before you install the caliper back on the car, you can stick the new pads in place and slip the whole assembly over the rotor. Some folks still want a "spacer"; if you want one, find those clips or just make up a wooden piece of the needed thickness which can be pulled out as the pads go over the rotor.
#7
Melting Slicks
Just cut a piece of wood a little thicker than the rotor thickness and slip it between the pads when you replace them. Then as you slide the caliper over the rotor, the wood will slip out as the caliper is set into place. No need to spend money on something you can make at home. Good luck.
Duane
Duane
#8
Instructor
Thread Starter
That’s what I tried, but it was tough with all 4 pistons. Someone said there were springs pushing them out so even though I tried the bleeder, the pistons came out to far to get them in place. Btw...I also have dot 5 not dot 3. I think I’m going to order this from ecklers tonight to move forward. Thanks to everyone for their assistance. Can’t wait to see what if I can get it all togther and have good brakes.
#9
Drifting
#10
Drifting
I have the Ecklers piston clips. They are not expensive, are re-usable and make installing the new brake pads easy.
#11
I didn't have good luck with the piston clips from Ecklers.
If I recall, they're C-shaped, and just made out of spring steel, and don't really have a good flat purchase on the caliper outer surfaces, so they tend to want to spread a bit, and then slide off.
I liked the wood spacer method better.
If I recall, they're C-shaped, and just made out of spring steel, and don't really have a good flat purchase on the caliper outer surfaces, so they tend to want to spread a bit, and then slide off.
I liked the wood spacer method better.
#12
Le Mans Master
While we are piling on, I have the piece from Zip that holds the pistons (not clips). On brand new rebuilt calipers (dry), I couldn't get it to work. I wore nitrile gloves, and held the pads apart by hand. I have a piece of wood I cut just for this purpose, but I didn't use it this time.
Last edited by Bikespace; 10-18-2018 at 02:30 PM.