Removing hood on '67
10-15-2018, 08:14 PM
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
Removing hood on '67
I'm going in to have the A/C receiver drier replaced on my '67 air coupe this Friday.
The hood has to come off to access this part.
Before I trust the folks at the A/C shop to do it, can you advise on the best procedure to remove and reinstall the hood?
I see there are 3 bolts holding the hood hinge on each side of the hood. Plus a couple more bolts for the hood prop. But, I also see that there are (only) 2 bolts per side holding the hood hinges to the support on the car. Me thinking that 4 bolts are less work to remove and replace than 6, I started off thinking that removing these would be the way to go. But, something tells me going that route isn't right, as re-aligning the hood may become more difficult.
Any advise you can offer on how to re & re the hood on my '67 would be appreciated!
The hood has to come off to access this part.
Before I trust the folks at the A/C shop to do it, can you advise on the best procedure to remove and reinstall the hood?
I see there are 3 bolts holding the hood hinge on each side of the hood. Plus a couple more bolts for the hood prop. But, I also see that there are (only) 2 bolts per side holding the hood hinges to the support on the car. Me thinking that 4 bolts are less work to remove and replace than 6, I started off thinking that removing these would be the way to go. But, something tells me going that route isn't right, as re-aligning the hood may become more difficult.
Any advise you can offer on how to re & re the hood on my '67 would be appreciated!
10-15-2018, 08:22 PM
#2
Team Owner
Dealt with extensively in a recent thread and the procedure cited used by a forum member successfully later in the same thread:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1598118661
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1598118661
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; 10-15-2018 at 08:25 PM.
10-16-2018, 10:31 AM
#4
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That was me, thanks to Frankie’s suggestion. It was really easy and my big block hood was a lot lighter than I expected. I took it off and reinstalled it myself (saving my wife’s energy for some other project). I do recommend running through how you will do it in your head and where you will temporarily store the hood if you are doing it by yourself, just to make sure you can do it without any issues like accessing the storage space, manipulating the hood into position, and then picking it up in the correct orientation to reinstall it. Best of luck!
10-16-2018, 02:53 PM
#5
Pro
Thread Starter
[QUOTE=emdoller;1598166203]
Why are you replacing the drier?
Hi Ed - I'm replacing the drier because I had the factory A/C converted over to R134A back in June. After getting the car back I was pleased the A/C cooled much better. However, I noticed their invoice had a charge for "replacing A/C drier" but when I inspected the car I saw the old drier was still in place. It was obvious why not - the hood must come off to get to the drier. I called the shop back and they promised to make good and replace the original drier at no extra cost. The tech said the old drier isn't necessarily compatible with R134A, and because its age is unknown, should be replaced. So I'm taking the car back this Friday. They'll be replacing the drier and re-charging the system. That's why I'm asking about removing the hood.
After they did the conversion this June the A/C blew pretty cold. They did not replace the stock hoses, saying the system held the charge during their test. After the system was converted I stuck a thermometer in the passenger outlet and got about 45 F. That isn't the 38-40 F that the stock system is supposed to put out, but I was happy as it was much better than the minimal cooling I got before.
The shop didn't touch the POA valve, saying "it should be fine". I've noticed a gradual deterioration in cooling since June, with outlet temps now closer to 50-52 F. Would this be due to the old drier being clogged? Should anything be done to the stock POA valve? And, could I have damaged the compressor by running that old drier all summer? Note I've only run the A/C for maybe 10 hours since it was converted, as I don't drive the car that much.
Any tips/ideas/feedback on this before I take the car back to the shop on Friday would be much appreciated.
Hi Ed - I'm replacing the drier because I had the factory A/C converted over to R134A back in June. After getting the car back I was pleased the A/C cooled much better. However, I noticed their invoice had a charge for "replacing A/C drier" but when I inspected the car I saw the old drier was still in place. It was obvious why not - the hood must come off to get to the drier. I called the shop back and they promised to make good and replace the original drier at no extra cost. The tech said the old drier isn't necessarily compatible with R134A, and because its age is unknown, should be replaced. So I'm taking the car back this Friday. They'll be replacing the drier and re-charging the system. That's why I'm asking about removing the hood.
After they did the conversion this June the A/C blew pretty cold. They did not replace the stock hoses, saying the system held the charge during their test. After the system was converted I stuck a thermometer in the passenger outlet and got about 45 F. That isn't the 38-40 F that the stock system is supposed to put out, but I was happy as it was much better than the minimal cooling I got before.
The shop didn't touch the POA valve, saying "it should be fine". I've noticed a gradual deterioration in cooling since June, with outlet temps now closer to 50-52 F. Would this be due to the old drier being clogged? Should anything be done to the stock POA valve? And, could I have damaged the compressor by running that old drier all summer? Note I've only run the A/C for maybe 10 hours since it was converted, as I don't drive the car that much.
Any tips/ideas/feedback on this before I take the car back to the shop on Friday would be much appreciated.
10-16-2018, 07:50 PM
#7
Le Mans Master
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Bubba’s tool kit: a BFH, roll of duct tape and a six pack.
