Ladensack3

Sunset-C6

6speedsteve

Lots of info at the Rag Company video page.

https://www.theragcompany.com/videos/

cmonkey713

Use a micro-fiber specific detergent on permanent press cycle. Make sure you rinse twice adding vinegar to the final rinse and dry on low or medium low setting. Never wash with non micro-fiber items, never wash with non-MF items.

FYRARMS

Definitely time to change! Both high heat and normal laundry soap are not good for microfiber. The link posted above will be a good guide for you.

* My wash detergent is 3D Towel Kleen. I have tried a few other brands, but this is half the cost and seems to fluff the towels better.
* I wash my good paint towels separately from the towels used for the wheels, engine bay, and interior.
* I use the warm wash/cold rinse setting, and in the dryer I use the low heat setting. Never any fabric softener.

Microfiber detergent is amazingly effective. I have never had a problem cleaning any of my towels. Only some applicator pads used for applying tire dressing stay a little stained, but they are still pretty much clean. They are just for tires anyway, so no big deal.

6speedsteve

You can use hot water wash as long as it is below 140 degrees, too hot of wash will fuse together the fibers which will then create scratches in your paint. Not sure where I read or heard but the hot water opens up the fibers in the cloth for better cleaning.

capevettes

I do a dedicated microfiber wash, nothing but the microfibers. I use "Micro-Restore". I partially dry them on a low heat in the dryer for a short period of time with 2 dryer ***** to keep them fluffy and then air dry them the rest of the way. My microfibers look and feel new for years.

pcbreflectionsllc

Are you washing towels that are used to dry water? Or are these towels used to remove oil, brake dust, or silicone based products? Or are they are used to remove wax or polishing residue?

Depending on what the towels are used for would determine the correct way to wash them. Towel management is very important due to 40-50 of our own towels cost $20.00 each and then work their way down in cost depending on the usage.

I wish it were as easy as saying use this product at this wash temp and your good to go, but it isn't!

What I can say with your supplied information is no matter what the towels are used for or the gsm rating of your towel, you should only tumble dry your towels with air or the lowest heat setting available to prevent the microfiber fingers from drawing up and hardening. If heat is present the towels will shrink (think of a white cotton shirt shrinking) and as it does the towel will harden and become less absorbent.

ztheusa

I send mine to the dry cleaners.

0Adam's Polish

Here is some good info!
http://www.adamsforums.com/topic/279...ofiber-towels/

Grzldvt1

As a pro detailer and a MF expert(I have been tapped by Korean weavers and interviewed, and been in meetings with them to discuss towels for various usages)
Here is what I did at my shop, based on their information.
Bottom Line all commercial detergents, Ie bought off the shelf at your local grocery store, contains oils that you DO NOT want in your towels
That oil transfers to the paint and attracts dust and dulls the finish, ever so slightly.
I originally thought they were fine, until I did some experimentation and discovered I was wrong when we tested on glass, which shows every imperfection, and streakiness.
You truly need to use a specific MF detergent. As c-monkey states adding vinegar is the way to go. Vinegar is a natural water softener and a grease cutter.
In my shop they would get rinsed with vinegar(1/4 cup based on load size. Small load =1/4 cup, medium load 1/2cup and on)
Paint towels had one bin, wheel, engine and anything less had a separate bin and washed separately from the others.
all towels were air dried, no heat.
I used towels that were over 5 years old on black car with no issue.