another keep it & mod vs. upgrade to C6Z thread
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
another keep it & mod vs. upgrade to C6Z thread
I'll keep it simple - I own my C5Z outright, has 40k miles, & a good amount of time/$$ invested - its plenty quick, but before I put any more $$$ into it to make it "perfect" I also contemplated upgrading to a C6 GS or Z06 - trying to determine if I can get what I want done to my current C5Z to get it to where I'd want to keep it forever for less than it would realistically cost to sell my car & get into a C6Z
Currently sitting @ 430whp on mustang dyno (Slowhawk did most of the work) - ARH headers, MGW shifter, ported TB/stock intake, BTW cam kit, new plugs/wires, replaced all tie rods, swaybar endlinks, swaybars are Steinjager, has 1/2 the interior dynamatted w/ Pioneer deck bluetooth/JL audio speakers/amp, black powdercoated stock wheels, new DBA slotted rotors/hawk pads + Radioflyer ACA's- so it has alot of goodies already going for it.
If I were to keep it performance wise I'd want to install a SC ultimately - OR have engine pulled stroked to 383 add some better flowing aftermarket heads to match the cam etc. there's a caveat to that, b/c some of what I'd want done to the car to really fall in love w/ it bleeds over into restoration/maintenance/aesthetics & away from straight speed shop stuff.
I've researched a few restoration shops around New England & will be shopping pricing around so I want a pretty detailed list of exactly what I'd want done to get a true idea of what it'll cost me - so below list is basically what I'd give them.
So here's my list of "to do's" in order to keep forever & be able to drive it like I stole it (feel free to make suggestions/comments)
Corbeau A4 or EvoX seats @ $400x2
Apsis D shaped wheel @ $900
Drop rear cradle & replace output shaft seals/gaskets on diff, add vent tube to prevent future leaks, clean it up along w/ tranny & apply clear coat to preserve that cherry look.
Remove/disassemble suspension all 4 corners - replace upper/lower ball joints w/ Moog ($320 in parts) replace any bushings that need it - clean all A arms/spindles, powdercoat & reinstall
Replace clutch while rear is out - Mcleod RSD whatever is a good combo for mostly street driving that will handle up to 650whp no sweat - assume parts will run $1200ish?
Replace rear lights w/ Radioflyer tinted tails @ $400
Replace windshield (has crack) + all weathertripping/trim related to winshield/doors ie: get the thing 100% water tight how much for parts & wheres the best place to source?
Remove front bumper & lower rocker panels - respray, reinstall w/ Xpel film (already on it but was damaged)
Paint correction for rest of car
New radiator from ECP + fans = $400ish?
Replace wheel bearings all 4 corners w/ Timken = $80x4 unless I upgrade axles w/ hubss included for rear (see below)
I want the engine bay cleaned up thoroughly - replace hoses & clamps, my engine looks ugly w/ the rail covers off - want to replace fuel rails w/ something better looking/functioning also have entire engine cleaned up - which brings up the idea of just pulling the motor entirely having it stroked blueprinted upgrading heads @ which point supercharger would be off the table for a while.
Unsure if needed but considering:
Replace axles? I have no signs of leaking/damage, I know C5Z axles are already pretty stout, if I wind up SC'ing it then it may be a bigger consideration, otherwise maybe stick w/ whats there b/c axles (albeit w/ hubs) - $2400ish
Upgrade torque tube - doubt I would have to, but unsure - more of "if its already apart is it worth doing" type of thing
Motor mount upgrade/replacement needed?
Steering rack replacement - $350ish for parts after core swap - not sure if needed or not, sometimes feels like my steering has a little play in it initially
The ultimate goal is to have a car that can be driven daily if I wanted, still go to the track & take a beating, & I could literally pressure wash the undercarriage & bring to a car show the next day - overbuild a number of components to not break & get future preventative maintenance on wear items outta the way.
Bottom line - I'd be willing to shell out $10k on the car to get it exactly as I'd want it - but as the cost gets up to that level or any further north of it starts to make more sense to sell my car cut my losses & look @ a C6Z w/ some of the upgrades I'd want already done....and seems to me I could make a quick sale of my car for $21-22k give or take & buy a well maintained similar mileage (I'd probably be looking @ a C6Z w/ 35k miles tops) for the $35k level give or take - so its a tough call.
The $$$ & time I already invested in my current ride is the biggest hangup, that & the fact I don't owe anything on it & its a hoot to drive - and that's just it, I have lost interest in tinkering w/ it (in past I did MGW install, sway bars, endlinks etc.) & simply wanna drive it, wash it, enjoy it - really just change oil, clean filter, change diff/tranny fluids is the extent of what I want to do on my own going forward.
Currently sitting @ 430whp on mustang dyno (Slowhawk did most of the work) - ARH headers, MGW shifter, ported TB/stock intake, BTW cam kit, new plugs/wires, replaced all tie rods, swaybar endlinks, swaybars are Steinjager, has 1/2 the interior dynamatted w/ Pioneer deck bluetooth/JL audio speakers/amp, black powdercoated stock wheels, new DBA slotted rotors/hawk pads + Radioflyer ACA's- so it has alot of goodies already going for it.
If I were to keep it performance wise I'd want to install a SC ultimately - OR have engine pulled stroked to 383 add some better flowing aftermarket heads to match the cam etc. there's a caveat to that, b/c some of what I'd want done to the car to really fall in love w/ it bleeds over into restoration/maintenance/aesthetics & away from straight speed shop stuff.
I've researched a few restoration shops around New England & will be shopping pricing around so I want a pretty detailed list of exactly what I'd want done to get a true idea of what it'll cost me - so below list is basically what I'd give them.
So here's my list of "to do's" in order to keep forever & be able to drive it like I stole it (feel free to make suggestions/comments)
Corbeau A4 or EvoX seats @ $400x2
Apsis D shaped wheel @ $900
Drop rear cradle & replace output shaft seals/gaskets on diff, add vent tube to prevent future leaks, clean it up along w/ tranny & apply clear coat to preserve that cherry look.
Remove/disassemble suspension all 4 corners - replace upper/lower ball joints w/ Moog ($320 in parts) replace any bushings that need it - clean all A arms/spindles, powdercoat & reinstall
Replace clutch while rear is out - Mcleod RSD whatever is a good combo for mostly street driving that will handle up to 650whp no sweat - assume parts will run $1200ish?
Replace rear lights w/ Radioflyer tinted tails @ $400
Replace windshield (has crack) + all weathertripping/trim related to winshield/doors ie: get the thing 100% water tight how much for parts & wheres the best place to source?
Remove front bumper & lower rocker panels - respray, reinstall w/ Xpel film (already on it but was damaged)
Paint correction for rest of car
New radiator from ECP + fans = $400ish?
Replace wheel bearings all 4 corners w/ Timken = $80x4 unless I upgrade axles w/ hubss included for rear (see below)
I want the engine bay cleaned up thoroughly - replace hoses & clamps, my engine looks ugly w/ the rail covers off - want to replace fuel rails w/ something better looking/functioning also have entire engine cleaned up - which brings up the idea of just pulling the motor entirely having it stroked blueprinted upgrading heads @ which point supercharger would be off the table for a while.
Unsure if needed but considering:
Replace axles? I have no signs of leaking/damage, I know C5Z axles are already pretty stout, if I wind up SC'ing it then it may be a bigger consideration, otherwise maybe stick w/ whats there b/c axles (albeit w/ hubs) - $2400ish
Upgrade torque tube - doubt I would have to, but unsure - more of "if its already apart is it worth doing" type of thing
Motor mount upgrade/replacement needed?
Steering rack replacement - $350ish for parts after core swap - not sure if needed or not, sometimes feels like my steering has a little play in it initially
The ultimate goal is to have a car that can be driven daily if I wanted, still go to the track & take a beating, & I could literally pressure wash the undercarriage & bring to a car show the next day - overbuild a number of components to not break & get future preventative maintenance on wear items outta the way.
Bottom line - I'd be willing to shell out $10k on the car to get it exactly as I'd want it - but as the cost gets up to that level or any further north of it starts to make more sense to sell my car cut my losses & look @ a C6Z w/ some of the upgrades I'd want already done....and seems to me I could make a quick sale of my car for $21-22k give or take & buy a well maintained similar mileage (I'd probably be looking @ a C6Z w/ 35k miles tops) for the $35k level give or take - so its a tough call.
The $$$ & time I already invested in my current ride is the biggest hangup, that & the fact I don't owe anything on it & its a hoot to drive - and that's just it, I have lost interest in tinkering w/ it (in past I did MGW install, sway bars, endlinks etc.) & simply wanna drive it, wash it, enjoy it - really just change oil, clean filter, change diff/tranny fluids is the extent of what I want to do on my own going forward.
#3
I prefer fast in the turns instead of fast in the straights. Maybe look for a new suspension package (strut/transverse or coilover) that transforms the cornering capabilities of the car? Bushings to control the slop?
I haven't heard great things about the seats you listed. But for the money they will blow the stock seats out of the water.
I don't know enough about the torque limits of the c5z powertrain so someone else will have to chime in there.
You seem to have the mod bug. If you purchase the C6Z it won't be long until you dump money into that. Not judging at all. But from my perspective the C5 and C6 are so similar the step "up' might not be worth it. Especially if you've updated the audio in your current ride and added more HP.
In the end this is your decision to make. Don't stress about it and do what you want within the limits of your budget.
I haven't heard great things about the seats you listed. But for the money they will blow the stock seats out of the water.
I don't know enough about the torque limits of the c5z powertrain so someone else will have to chime in there.
You seem to have the mod bug. If you purchase the C6Z it won't be long until you dump money into that. Not judging at all. But from my perspective the C5 and C6 are so similar the step "up' might not be worth it. Especially if you've updated the audio in your current ride and added more HP.
In the end this is your decision to make. Don't stress about it and do what you want within the limits of your budget.
Last edited by DudeWithAVette; 10-17-2018 at 09:54 PM.
#4
vettes even though built as really extreme sports cars seem to be the ones where people anticipate issues way before they arrive. I have a 2003 z06 and other than valve spring worries(which may be or not inflated) at 50k miles is the only upgrade planned. It drives perfect, no drips but I did set 5k cash aside to address issues and do what mods I really deem necessary as they come up if they do at all.. I am considering a blower mod but if I do I might just sell this car and buy one who has already completed and let them take the financial loss. How can a car which was 50k 15 years ago with only 40k miles need so many repairs to enjoy. Maybe I don't drive mine hard enough and I do love the style and performance just have a little more faith in gm building it to last a bit longer driven as it was meant to be,
#6
Team Owner
I basically just did what you're contemplating. Not a z but I had a 98 z51 vert, and I replaced it with a 427 vert. I did a massive amount of mods and work to my C5. Enjoyed pretty much all of it. Swapped from Auto to manual, new engine, Rears, suspension, you name it. I wanted something newer so in the garage it sits.
I have no regrets about my C5, and I damn sure have no regrets about my C6. I love it. I spent tons of time working on my C5, modding everything I could get my hands on. Now with my C6, I wash it and drive it.
If you haven't driven one, (c6z) you really need to do that. I cannot stress enough, do yourself a favor and get the mag ride. My friends 10 GS does not have it and I always considered the ride of that car equivalent to my 98 vert. My 13 with the mag ride shames them both. I would also hold out for the NPP exhaust if it wasn't already standard.
In the end, there really is no wrong decision here. To me though, variety is the spice of life and you're only going around this rock once. You can have a really really nice C5, or you can be able to say you had a really nice C5 and you also had a C6.
I have no regrets about my C5, and I damn sure have no regrets about my C6. I love it. I spent tons of time working on my C5, modding everything I could get my hands on. Now with my C6, I wash it and drive it.
If you haven't driven one, (c6z) you really need to do that. I cannot stress enough, do yourself a favor and get the mag ride. My friends 10 GS does not have it and I always considered the ride of that car equivalent to my 98 vert. My 13 with the mag ride shames them both. I would also hold out for the NPP exhaust if it wasn't already standard.
In the end, there really is no wrong decision here. To me though, variety is the spice of life and you're only going around this rock once. You can have a really really nice C5, or you can be able to say you had a really nice C5 and you also had a C6.
#8
Race Director
Member Since: Dec 2010
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 10,426
Received 1,261 Likes
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2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
C5 of Year Winner (performance mods) 2019
I'm keeping mine unless someone offers me a ridiculous amount of money for it... I didn't build it to sell it and after 8 years I am nowhere near bored with it
Last edited by neutron82; 10-17-2018 at 11:58 PM.
#9
Melting Slicks
I have thought about moving up to the C6 Z06, but to be honest, with the C7s dropping in price (and will drop more when the C8s arrive), I am just going to wait a little longer and ****** a C7.
#10
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Aug 2009
Location: ALL governments are legalized mobsters, so doesn't matter where I live :(
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I struggle with this every summer and always do a cost analysis between the 2 options. I have my car close to where I want it to be, but upgrading to a GS has always been on my list...in the end, even if you get a newer Z or GS you're going to mod that too...face it were sick...sorry, don't think I gave any advice, probably confused you more lol
#11
Pro
I guess I’m normal because I have struggled thru this every winter for the last 4-5 years. I have heads, cam, intake exhaust and put down 430 hp and this winter I’m biting the bullet and doing brakes, shocks, clutch and supercharger all at once!!! I also seriously looked at trading up to C6Z but for less money (all cash though) I decided to stay with my beloved C5 coupe and make it faster than a C6Z. I knew going with a trade would end up costing me a lot more to get the Mods I want. With my C5 I’ve already got all the other mods I’ve always wanted!
#13
Drifting
Thread Starter
I struggle with this every summer and always do a cost analysis between the 2 options. I have my car close to where I want it to be, but upgrading to a GS has always been on my list...in the end, even if you get a newer Z or GS you're going to mod that too...face it were sick...sorry, don't think I gave any advice, probably confused you more lol
i have driven multiple C6Zs (all stock or basically stock)- the last time I was “impressed” by the way it drove was probably right around the time I bought mybthen stoxk C5Z 5+ years ago. Now I drive one & it FEELS slower than my car....probably isn’t the case, but that’s what buttometer feels....so yeah, the “upgrade” to C6Z automatically comes w/ the assumption I’ll be dumping a few grand into it in mods as well almost immediately.
money pit? Maybe, probably, but anyone who even thinks of throwing that term around who has ever leased a vehicle for instance, has no right doing so. I own the Z outright...also own a ‘15 Acura MDX, ‘15 GMC Sierra 6.2 4x4 & an ‘07 accord 5 speed w/ 180k miles - all of em paid in full....so taking that into consideration even if I dumped $25k into the Z doesn’t really seem as reckless eh?
most of what I listed on there isn’t necessarily “needed” but may very well be in the future, & as I’ve learned over the years most times better to just bite the bullet & tackle a bunch of items @ once while the cars apart...if you KNEW you needed brakes, thought you could use bearings, & “hoped” your ball joints would go another 5k miles & said “eh screw it, I’ll just save the time/$$$ & just swap pads” - then the rotors warp- swap em out drive it, then the bearings start grinding, take it apart again pay$$$ or spend time doing same labor AGAIN etc- you get my drift. I want a car that has all the little details taken care of & then some, that I can drive like I stole it 75% of the time,
pressure wash the undercarriage spray wax it & bring to a car show, then smoke a Porsche on the ride home.
The C7 idea is very relevant though, but I feel like they’re very common now & also I’m very weary of GM products from 2014-2018....numerous issues w/ 3 trucks 2x2014s & my current 2015. In fact, I’d be willing to say my C5Z is probably one of the if not THE sturdiest/most reliable products I’ve ever owned or been around from GM. I wouldn’t go near a 2014-2016 C7, so that makes them pricier- prefer the last couple years of a model before a changeover going forward....no desire to be GMs guinea pig for 1/2 way engineered product.
BUT- I will admit, I took a C6ZR1 w/ around 45k on the clock & that car really checked all the boxes for me. Unique look, special brakes/suspension, factory modified & beefed up internally to handle even more power should you increase a bit in the future. Thing is a decent ZR1 is $50k maybe I will watch those prices closer & see what happens. While the C6Z essentially was a reminder of how much I like my current ride & why I should keep it, the C6 ZR1 really wowed me & sucked me in. For being on the same platform they are two VERY different cars.
TBH though more than anything what drives me back toward modding my C5Z even more is the time/money/effort I’ve already got into it that I’d just be “giving” away & the fact that it’s “my” car...im used to it.
#14
Melting Slicks
BUT- I will admit, I took a C6ZR1 w/ around 45k on the clock & that car really checked all the boxes for me. Unique look, special brakes/suspension, factory modified & beefed up internally to handle even more power should you increase a bit in the future. Thing is a decent ZR1 is $50k maybe I will watch those prices closer & see what happens. While the C6Z essentially was a reminder of how much I like my current ride & why I should keep it, the C6 ZR1 really wowed me & sucked me in. For being on the same platform they are two VERY different cars.
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C5Dobie (10-20-2018)
#15
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Jan 2014
Location: Rio Rancho, New Mexico
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C6 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
+1 for the ZR1. They're amazing cars right out of the box. I've got longtubes and an upper pulley on order, because I've got a sickness, apparently.
#17
Team Owner
You're not going to hear me try to talk you out of anything. Definitely not the ZR1 which I love but did not want to spend that much money. Not the C7 even though I don't like them even one bit. I absolutely hate the way they look, but that is a personal preference thing like all other Generations. Wouldn't try to talk you out of keeping your C5, as I said before there are valid points for everything. I moved up to a 13 so from my 98 I picked up 15 years. I have been in a lot of C5, I would say between 15 and 20. I can say with no reservation, none of them were anywhere close to as nice as my 13 427. Not going to say some weren't faster, I'm not sure how much that matters to me. And I'm not sure any of them actually were. My car puts the power to the ground pretty well.
I've also been in some C7s. Awesome cars, just ugly is all. I would have no interest in a stingray and would have a hard time justifying the price of any C7z without it being a leftover with 0% financing and a deep discount because they want them off the lot for C8s. Trouble is they're not going to stop making the C7. There's not going to be another 2013 anytime soon. So with that in mind I purchased what I actually wanted and if I want to swap cars in a couple years I can do that. Nobody says I'm stuck with this thing. And if I don't put a ton of money in mods in it, I will probably help the value considerably and be even more ready to go drop some cash on something I would like more. And if I can get the house finished, perhaps a new ZR1 is in the mix. The only planning ahead that I'm going to do right now is to not plan a bunch of spending that determines my future path. I have a lot of hobbies and interests that I put on the Shelf for the last 2 years. Even if I were to free up enough time to mess around with my car, I might be spending that time doing something else.
#18
Melting Slicks
I have a C5 Z06 basically stock except for an air intake. In June I purchased a C6 Z06...I absolutely love it. That 427 pulls like you wouldn't believe. I traded in my 2013 ZL1 making 597 RWHP..and the stock C6Z is faster and pulls harder. The other day I test drove a 2016 Z06 8 speed auto. The C7Z is fast. The initial hit from the C7Z was insane but then it mellos out. The hit from the C6Z is brutal but not like the C7Z..the difference to me is the C6Z continues to pull and pulls hard. I didnt buy the C7Z..I left the dealership with my C6Z. My C5Z even though it's not as fast it's still my favorite!
#19
Racer
lol - yeah you pretty much hit the nail on the head, some of the other posters either a) didn’t real my whole (admittedly long) original post and b) must not have much of the mod bug themselves and/or aren’t being “honest” w/ themselves.
i have driven multiple C6Zs (all stock or basically stock)- the last time I was “impressed” by the way it drove was probably right around the time I bought mybthen stoxk C5Z 5+ years ago. Now I drive one & it FEELS slower than my car....probably isn’t the case, but that’s what buttometer feels....so yeah, the “upgrade” to C6Z automatically comes w/ the assumption I’ll be dumping a few grand into it in mods as well almost immediately.
money pit? Maybe, probably, but anyone who even thinks of throwing that term around who has ever leased a vehicle for instance, has no right doing so. I own the Z outright...also own a ‘15 Acura MDX, ‘15 GMC Sierra 6.2 4x4 & an ‘07 accord 5 speed w/ 180k miles - all of em paid in full....so taking that into consideration even if I dumped $25k into the Z doesn’t really seem as reckless eh?
most of what I listed on there isn’t necessarily “needed” but may very well be in the future, & as I’ve learned over the years most times better to just bite the bullet & tackle a bunch of items @ once while the cars apart...if you KNEW you needed brakes, thought you could use bearings, & “hoped” your ball joints would go another 5k miles & said “eh screw it, I’ll just save the time/$$$ & just swap pads” - then the rotors warp- swap em out drive it, then the bearings start grinding, take it apart again pay$$$ or spend time doing same labor AGAIN etc- you get my drift. I want a car that has all the little details taken care of & then some, that I can drive like I stole it 75% of the time,
pressure wash the undercarriage spray wax it & bring to a car show, then smoke a Porsche on the ride home.
The C7 idea is very relevant though, but I feel like they’re very common now & also I’m very weary of GM products from 2014-2018....numerous issues w/ 3 trucks 2x2014s & my current 2015. In fact, I’d be willing to say my C5Z is probably one of the if not THE sturdiest/most reliable products I’ve ever owned or been around from GM. I wouldn’t go near a 2014-2016 C7, so that makes them pricier- prefer the last couple years of a model before a changeover going forward....no desire to be GMs guinea pig for 1/2 way engineered product.
BUT- I will admit, I took a C6ZR1 w/ around 45k on the clock & that car really checked all the boxes for me. Unique look, special brakes/suspension, factory modified & beefed up internally to handle even more power should you increase a bit in the future. Thing is a decent ZR1 is $50k maybe I will watch those prices closer & see what happens. While the C6Z essentially was a reminder of how much I like my current ride & why I should keep it, the C6 ZR1 really wowed me & sucked me in. For being on the same platform they are two VERY different cars.
TBH though more than anything what drives me back toward modding my C5Z even more is the time/money/effort I’ve already got into it that I’d just be “giving” away & the fact that it’s “my” car...im used to it.
#20
Le Mans Master
I had a built '00 FRC for a few years, sold it and went off the reservation for a while...
When i came back to Vettes this year, it was a decision between a C5z and C6z. Money was not an issue though I did want good bang for the buck of course. From my perspective:
- C5z looks better. This is 100% subjective of course, however the FRC and C5Z are the only 'coupe' styled Vettes. C5Z with nice wheels and stance looks like an athlete in a suit; buff and elegant. The c6z to me looks like a C6 with a boy-racer body kit, it's always yelling 'look at me!', never elegant.
- C6z has more impressive tech. Aluminum frame, magnesium cradle, Cf fenders, of course the Ls7, etc. The LS7 is awesome when it's not dropping valves... C6Z is pretty special from a technology standpoint.
- I prefer the simpler interior of the C5. The C6 (and c7) interiors bother me. buttons to release the doors? gimicky.
- I drove multiple examples and honestly the C5z to me feels lighter and tighter. I feel like I fit better 6'3" 220lbs
I bought a built C5z; installed Corbeau Evolution X seats (feel and look MUCH better than A4s) and doing a few other minor things.
If I was in yer shoes: I'd be tempted to install a built LS; 550whp is very attainable, and that is a lot of na power in a 3k# car. A good part of the cost could be offest by selling your current setup. Do a nice clutch, consider 3.9 or 4.1 gears (really wakes the car up). Install seats and throw some money at the suspension.
I would't try to talk you in either direction, both are awesome. The drawbacks to both are pure nitpicks.
good luck
When i came back to Vettes this year, it was a decision between a C5z and C6z. Money was not an issue though I did want good bang for the buck of course. From my perspective:
- C5z looks better. This is 100% subjective of course, however the FRC and C5Z are the only 'coupe' styled Vettes. C5Z with nice wheels and stance looks like an athlete in a suit; buff and elegant. The c6z to me looks like a C6 with a boy-racer body kit, it's always yelling 'look at me!', never elegant.
- C6z has more impressive tech. Aluminum frame, magnesium cradle, Cf fenders, of course the Ls7, etc. The LS7 is awesome when it's not dropping valves... C6Z is pretty special from a technology standpoint.
- I prefer the simpler interior of the C5. The C6 (and c7) interiors bother me. buttons to release the doors? gimicky.
- I drove multiple examples and honestly the C5z to me feels lighter and tighter. I feel like I fit better 6'3" 220lbs
I bought a built C5z; installed Corbeau Evolution X seats (feel and look MUCH better than A4s) and doing a few other minor things.
If I was in yer shoes: I'd be tempted to install a built LS; 550whp is very attainable, and that is a lot of na power in a 3k# car. A good part of the cost could be offest by selling your current setup. Do a nice clutch, consider 3.9 or 4.1 gears (really wakes the car up). Install seats and throw some money at the suspension.
I would't try to talk you in either direction, both are awesome. The drawbacks to both are pure nitpicks.
good luck