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Before I tear my door apart to replace the window felts and tracks I was wondering if someone could answer the question on the photo? Actually what are the staples for too?
That felt goes in the rear vertical window channel - the stuff the vendor's sell is often too thick and too expensive....go to JoAnne Fabrics and get some thin stuff. Glue it in getting it well into the corners - some use a shaved wooden block to seat it in the corners. Lap it over the top and glue it by one inch down each of the three sides at the top (cutting the felt to do this)....that keeps it from "rolling up" as the window moves up and down.
The staples attach the window garnish felt to the trim...your AIM shows all this clearly.
I don't have a picture of that... You also want to get the rubber rain seal that goes along the window bottom too if you're missing those..
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; 10-19-2018 at 06:37 PM.
There is a complete write up pdf posted here. So search and you will find it. Also i spread the channel a small amount and used the supplied kit material.
Staples go through the rubber backing of the "fuzzies" and through the stainless trim... then the legs get bent to keep them in place.
I did this project 6 months ago..
The December '17 issue of SoCal SACC "Solid Scoop" has a write-up on this.. I've attached it here (for some reason it's not on our website, as the others are).
The document floating around on the forum is also good.
Excellent information! I was fortunate to find another tutorial on this forum from years back. I'll try to post the link here. That is quite the magazine.
The attached PDF files from Rich Mozzetta have all the info you need. With Rich's generous help I am working through the doors on my '60. I've relined the rear channel with felt from a fabric store, modified the fuzzies in the bend area by removing the rubber backing, attached them to the garnish moldings, and replaced the window glass in the driver door. The perimeter weatherstrip awaits. Need to glue it on but other things keep getting the way. I have it attached at the top of the post (metal retainer tucked in behind the channel liner and attached with a short 8-32 flat-head machine screw). If you are replacing those front liners, do not rivet it at the top of the post or you won't be able to get the metal tab on the '60 WS in behind the channel. Ask me how I know. I used an 8-32 tap to thread the rivet hole for the screw. Once the WS is done, reinstalling the the window, window stops, door panel, window crank, lock ****, etc. will finish up the driver side.
Hope the files help you out.
Dave Z
Excellent info here!! Took a spell to find this info but worth the read!! Thanks to all who post from their experience and wisdom. Truly helps those of us not as gifted!!
10-19-2018, 02:54 PM
Window Felt Replacement Question
