JoeMatilda

Friends,
as I mentioned in another thread, my C6 has a clunk emanating from the rear when the car starts to move from being stationary.
As soon as I return to Dallas next week, I will replace the axle nuts to start with. If that doesn' fix the problem, Ill move on replacing the differential fluid, etc.
I have seen threads and "how to" segments specifying a torque of 140# and others specifying 160#.

which one is correct??

RicK T

140 lbs is the revised "new" spec. It was originally spec'd at 160 but that is too high and GM issued a new TSB with the 140 spec. If you do this, be sure to get new axle nuts and correct Loctite and let sit for 24 hours to cure.

See post #39 in here:

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1573202325

AORoads

Your car is an '07? I'd follow what Rick said to a tee, and that means buying the really inexpensive axle nuts. But, whether you are or aren't the original owner, if you don't know when the diff fluid was last changed do it anyway sometime soon. There's a new(er) formula from about mid-'08 that you don't have in there unless it was changed sometime betw. when the car came off the line and today.

JoeMatilda

Thanks for your replies.
I already bought the nuts. I will be replacing the old ones with the new ones, not just retorquing. I'm lucky that my neighbor has a torquing wrench so I won' have to move the car after Im' done.

yes, my car is an 07. I got it in July from a dealer so I don' know if the differential fluid was changed. But, I can get it done too as soon as I get back to Dallas. The good thing about thus is that the fix isn't too expensive,

140# will be...

Many thanks!!!

Landru

Early in C6 run owners reported frequently of one/both working themselves loose resulting w/ a clunk.
Happened more than once w/ some members who then went to a pricey aftermarket EL
Don't know what exact T#s are supposed to be, maybe another member will chime-in.

If clunking continues after new axle nuts are installed, check end links.

Dano523

140fllbs and 272 loctite are fine,

But take the time to push the axle back to clean between it's mating surface to the back of the wheel hub, get as much grease as as you can into the hub and axle splines, and give the loctite a good day to day and cure before you drive the vet.

Hell, done right, pull the axles to get both them and the wheel hub spines cleaned and greases, as well the top axle socket spines to the diff shaft cleaned with a touch of grease as well. Plus it's a good time to replace the diff out put shaft seals that love to leak too.

80atez

I did the new axle nut replacement on my c6z06 several years and a few track days ago... I used the HT locktite, 160ft lbs (if it is now 140, that's news to me)... I had the old ones left over so I put those on outside the new ones, put them at 160 too, marked them in relation to the axle shaft with a marker, haven't moved in years.

I wear two belts and a suspender as well. ; )

JoeMatilda

HOXXOH

I agree about using the old nut as a jam nut and marking the axle/nut line to keep a quick check on unwanted movement. Although, I only do 140# and don't wear belts or suspenders.

Dano523

Brand new axle, your fine at 160.
Its the used axles that have already taken a stretch set, that could end up snapping the axle if torqued to 160# instead.

On track cars that get more abuse, when pulling the axles to change the Wheel hubs, I just torque the axle nut to 125# with 272, and let the loctite do the magic until they are pulled again..

919cw313

I tightened the originals to 140# today. The right side had loosened and was making a click/clunk noise like yours. Thankfully it wasn't anything more serious.

I'm ordering the new ones soon and replacing them eventually.

JoeMatilda