List of stuff to double check to go from shortish block to ready to start.
10-19-2018, 08:40 PM
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
List of stuff to double check to go from shortish block to ready to start.
I bought what I call a medium block from another forum member. It’s a short block, but with valvetrain but no valve/front/rear covers. It’s been a while since I’ve put an LS together and know there are a few little things that I need to make sure are there (like the little oil barbell)
is there a check check list of these little things somewhere or a book to pickup to read through? I’m itching to get this new combo in and fired up
is there a check check list of these little things somewhere or a book to pickup to read through? I’m itching to get this new combo in and fired up
10-19-2018, 08:54 PM
#2
Team Owner
Make sure it has oil in it and the oil pressure gauge is hooked up. Everything else you get time to see and correct. And make sure the drain plug is in. 
(edit)
and the fuel rail. Make sure all the connections there are securely connected. Turn the key on for about 1 second and turn it back off then go check for fuel leaks. Do so with a fuel pressure gauge connected and make sure it holds pressure.
(edit)
and the fuel rail. Make sure all the connections there are securely connected. Turn the key on for about 1 second and turn it back off then go check for fuel leaks. Do so with a fuel pressure gauge connected and make sure it holds pressure.
Last edited by K-Spaz; 10-19-2018 at 08:56 PM.
10-19-2018, 10:08 PM
#3
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10-20-2018, 12:44 PM
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It’s always fun to have the first start of a rebuilt engine whether you did the work or someone else you trust did. (And perhaps a little bit of “what happens if”).
Check, double-check and triple-check all your connections and fittings. Some little things like the lower hoses can accidentally get overlooked.
Fill the oil pan AND oil filter with oil. Also pour about half a quart of oil into the oil sending unit hole. Oiling the filter and pouring some into the sending unit hole will reduce the time to pump oil throughout the engine. Use a non-synthetic break in oil with ZDDP (Joe Gibbs break in oil is a popular rebuild start up oil).
Pull the fuel injection fuses, (Fuse #18; INJR2, for injectors and coils 1, 3, 5, 7, and Fuse #22, INJR1 for injectors and coils, 2, 4, 6, 8. Both are 15A fuses). Crank the engine 2-3 times about 10-15 seconds each time to pump oil through the engine.
Replace the fuses.
Ensure the radiator is filled and remove the radiator cap.
Turn the ignition to On (not Start) for 5 seconds and then check for fuel leaks.
Fun Part: Start the engine. Watch oil pressure and if you have no pressure within 10 seconds turn the engine off and retrace your steps to determine why you have no pressure. Assuming everything is good then let your engine run. Realize the engine will run at a higher RPM (1000-1200 RPM) for a few minutes until it goes into closed loop. It will probably even smoke for a couple of minutes, too, since the rings are not yet seated to the cylinder walls.
Now that the engine is running, check your radiator coolant level. It will be bubbling and the coolant level will be dropping. Keep adding coolant until the bubbling stops and the coolant level is remaining steady then replace the radiator cap. (This could take 10-15 minutes).
At the same time as checking the radiator level, also carefully check over the entire engine area. Hopefully there are no leaks, and no bad sounds.
Either take the car for a drive or work your throttle while the car is stationary. You want to vary the engine RPMs not only over the first drive but for the first 500-1000 miles so no extended freeway cruising right away. Keep engine RPMs under 3500-4000 and no hard pulls for the first ?? miles. (I say ?? miles because engine builders vary from 100 to 1000 miles on this).
The first 2-3 times you shut your engine down, check your radiator fluid level and realize you may have to add more fluid. Also check you oil level and look the engine over for any signs of leaking (oil, fuel, coolant).
Change the oil after the first ?? miles. Again, this is a widely variable range. Some builders say change oil and filter after 500 miles and then after another 1000 miles. Lunati is on the conservative side and recommends an oil change after 100 miles and then the same 500 miles and 1000 miles ranges of others. (I followed the Lunati process). Regardless of whether you add in Lunati’s 100 mile oil change, at the end of the 1500 mile break in you go back to Mobil 1 on whichever other synthetic oil you are using.
Then the really fun part; Drive, Drive, Drive!
Check, double-check and triple-check all your connections and fittings. Some little things like the lower hoses can accidentally get overlooked.
Fill the oil pan AND oil filter with oil. Also pour about half a quart of oil into the oil sending unit hole. Oiling the filter and pouring some into the sending unit hole will reduce the time to pump oil throughout the engine. Use a non-synthetic break in oil with ZDDP (Joe Gibbs break in oil is a popular rebuild start up oil).
Pull the fuel injection fuses, (Fuse #18; INJR2, for injectors and coils 1, 3, 5, 7, and Fuse #22, INJR1 for injectors and coils, 2, 4, 6, 8. Both are 15A fuses). Crank the engine 2-3 times about 10-15 seconds each time to pump oil through the engine.
Replace the fuses.
Ensure the radiator is filled and remove the radiator cap.
Turn the ignition to On (not Start) for 5 seconds and then check for fuel leaks.
Fun Part: Start the engine. Watch oil pressure and if you have no pressure within 10 seconds turn the engine off and retrace your steps to determine why you have no pressure. Assuming everything is good then let your engine run. Realize the engine will run at a higher RPM (1000-1200 RPM) for a few minutes until it goes into closed loop. It will probably even smoke for a couple of minutes, too, since the rings are not yet seated to the cylinder walls.
Now that the engine is running, check your radiator coolant level. It will be bubbling and the coolant level will be dropping. Keep adding coolant until the bubbling stops and the coolant level is remaining steady then replace the radiator cap. (This could take 10-15 minutes).
At the same time as checking the radiator level, also carefully check over the entire engine area. Hopefully there are no leaks, and no bad sounds.
Either take the car for a drive or work your throttle while the car is stationary. You want to vary the engine RPMs not only over the first drive but for the first 500-1000 miles so no extended freeway cruising right away. Keep engine RPMs under 3500-4000 and no hard pulls for the first ?? miles. (I say ?? miles because engine builders vary from 100 to 1000 miles on this).
The first 2-3 times you shut your engine down, check your radiator fluid level and realize you may have to add more fluid. Also check you oil level and look the engine over for any signs of leaking (oil, fuel, coolant).
Change the oil after the first ?? miles. Again, this is a widely variable range. Some builders say change oil and filter after 500 miles and then after another 1000 miles. Lunati is on the conservative side and recommends an oil change after 100 miles and then the same 500 miles and 1000 miles ranges of others. (I followed the Lunati process). Regardless of whether you add in Lunati’s 100 mile oil change, at the end of the 1500 mile break in you go back to Mobil 1 on whichever other synthetic oil you are using.
Then the really fun part; Drive, Drive, Drive!