Spindle Support Strut Bushing Replacement
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Spindle Support Strut Bushing Replacement
I need to change the bushings on the Spindle Support Struts of my '67. Any videos ( can't find any )? If not, how is it done?
Thanks
Thanks
#2
Race Director
Member Since: Jan 2002
Location: Close to DC
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C2 of the Year Finalist - Modified 2020
If you go on YouTube and search for, "VBP How To Video-Smart Struts" you will find the details. Also, get a Chassis Service Manual for your car. They are reproduced and very informative. Dennis
Last edited by Bluestripe67; 10-22-2018 at 10:58 AM.
#3
Instructor
Thread Starter
Thanks. In the video they are changing to an upgraded strut and I want to change the bushing on the original strut.
Last edited by 08redrocket; 10-22-2018 at 11:26 AM. Reason: info
#4
Tech Contributor
The originals can be pressed out or cut out with a hole saw. The rubber replacements are encased in a steel sleeve and press into the eyelets of the rods. I turned a shaft with an ID for the bushing ID and shoulder for the Bushing OD. I use it to remove and install bushings in an ordinary 20 ton press.
#5
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Jul 2018
Location: San Antonio, TX/Mahopac, NY
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2024 Corvette of the Year Finalist - Modified
2024 Corvette of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2023 C7 of the Year Winner - Modified
1. Jack up the rear and place on jack stands with front wheels chocked.
2. Remove cotter pin and castle nut.
3. Remove shock from lower mount (you may need to remove upper mount first in order to slide shock off lower mount.
4. Jack up trailing arm to take tension off strut rod.
5. Remove outer strut mount. This is the hardest part. DO NOT bang on the threaded stud or try to reverse the castle nut and bang on it. Both will damage the threads. The factory has a special long nut for this task. Use a pickle fork placed against the smooth portion of the shock mount as close to the base as possible. A few sharp blows with a bfh should drive it out of the mount (it can be very stubborn).
6. So far, you haven’t changed your camber alignment, but you need to remove the other end of the strut rod, so mark the eccentric bolt position and remove it.
7. Remove the bushing(s) with either a press or drill them out.
8. Reinstall
Or get a service manual and follow the process, but use the pickle fork.
2. Remove cotter pin and castle nut.
3. Remove shock from lower mount (you may need to remove upper mount first in order to slide shock off lower mount.
4. Jack up trailing arm to take tension off strut rod.
5. Remove outer strut mount. This is the hardest part. DO NOT bang on the threaded stud or try to reverse the castle nut and bang on it. Both will damage the threads. The factory has a special long nut for this task. Use a pickle fork placed against the smooth portion of the shock mount as close to the base as possible. A few sharp blows with a bfh should drive it out of the mount (it can be very stubborn).
6. So far, you haven’t changed your camber alignment, but you need to remove the other end of the strut rod, so mark the eccentric bolt position and remove it.
7. Remove the bushing(s) with either a press or drill them out.
8. Reinstall
Or get a service manual and follow the process, but use the pickle fork.
#6
After removing the strut you can burn them out quite easily with mapp gas or propane tourch. I tried drilling mine out and found it a long process. Best to do outside due to smoke, dripping hot rubber and fire danger. Took about 30 minutes to do all four bushings.
#7
Le Mans Master
Before I pick up a wrench, I soak the area in PB Plaster or Liquid Wrench. It's better if you can do this a few days in advance. Before I put it back together, I coat the lower shock mount with antiseize. The mount came out very easy in my car from California. It took a 20 ton press with the trailing arm attached to remove it from my NY car. Good luck. Jerry