non-hardening thread sealer
12-08-2018, 09:32 PM
#1
Melting Slicks
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non-hardening thread sealer
I recently replaced my powerglide filter and gasket on my '64 recently (I used DocRebuilds extra thick cork gasket) and I am having a small leak on one side. The car hasn't been driven for a few weeks, and I know the non-activity can be the cause, but I did all of the right things when I installed it. There is fluid around the bolt heads so I was wondering if I should try some non-hardening thread sealer on the bolts to see if that stops the leak. Anything to be worried about by doing this?
BTW- I was very careful with my tightening strength and pattern during install of the bolts and I did carefully check the pan edge for any minor bends, etc. When I drive the car often I don't have this issue.
BTW- I was very careful with my tightening strength and pattern during install of the bolts and I did carefully check the pan edge for any minor bends, etc. When I drive the car often I don't have this issue.
12-08-2018, 09:38 PM
#2
Team Owner
I personally don’t know why non-hardening gasket sealer exists! 
I like Loctite thread sealers!
I like Loctite thread sealers!
12-08-2018, 11:04 PM
#5
Le Mans Master
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I personally use Permatex 2 non hardening sealer to hold the gasket to the transmission. A little on each bolt would not heart anything. I feel it holds up to oils better than silicone, although I have used it on the pan side of the gasket to act as a sealant and release agent more or less.
If you choose to use Thread-Lok, be sure to use the blue - not the red. I am not familiar with a Locktite thread sealer that is not a thread locker, but TCracingCA may. A thread locker would help keep the bolts from backing out, but I never had that problem if properly torqued.
Just $.02, it's your dollar.
If you choose to use Thread-Lok, be sure to use the blue - not the red. I am not familiar with a Locktite thread sealer that is not a thread locker, but TCracingCA may. A thread locker would help keep the bolts from backing out, but I never had that problem if properly torqued.
Just $.02, it's your dollar.
12-09-2018, 07:54 AM
#7
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ARP sells a white Teflon paste thread sealer, probably what you have seen.
It's good to use on pipe threads but not on head bolts (or studs) which invade the water jacket.
For all around, general purpose sealing, good ol' Permatex #2 is hard to beat.
It's good to use on pipe threads but not on head bolts (or studs) which invade the water jacket.
For all around, general purpose sealing, good ol' Permatex #2 is hard to beat.
12-09-2018, 09:52 AM
#10
Safety Car
If a retorque doesn't fix the leak and you want to use a sealant I would remove them one at a time. Spray with brake or carb cleaner and use Ultra Black Permatex. If that doesn't cure it rub a light layer of the Ultra Black on each side of a new gasket before installation.
12-09-2018, 10:04 AM
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12-09-2018, 10:32 AM
#12
Le Mans Master
The ARP thread sealer is exactly same as the Teflon sealer you can get in the plumbing dept. at the hardware store for a fraction of the price. Regardless, I've assembled dozens of engines using it on head bolts and have never had a leak.
12-09-2018, 11:00 AM
#13
Melting Slicks
I use Permatex 3D aviation form a gasket sealer on everything! Steam pipes, water pipes all car gaskets etc.
never have leaks and it lubricates bolts and fittings making disassembly a piece of cake!
On all other bolts where fluid in not involved, I use anti-seize.
never have leaks and it lubricates bolts and fittings making disassembly a piece of cake!
On all other bolts where fluid in not involved, I use anti-seize.
12-09-2018, 11:50 AM
#14
Racer
I sometimes use Permatex #2 on gaskets and bolts, except where the torque is critical like head or manifold bolts. There, I use the ARP thread sealer, because it’s made to match the ARP Ultra-Torque lube specs. I’ve had good luck with both, and have never had leaks using the ARP sealant.
Last edited by Drothgeb; 12-09-2018 at 11:51 AM.
12-09-2018, 01:01 PM
#15
Safety Car
Cleaning the surface including threads is more critical than the sealant used. Any oil film not removed will likely be a source for leak. Once the gasket surface is contaminated, it will not permanentlly seal.
12-09-2018, 02:40 PM
#16
Melting Slicks
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As Robert61 stated, I thought I would remove the pan bolts one by one, clean with brake fluid, clean the pan surface before reinstalling the bolt with Permatex 2 applied and finger tighten until I get them all done, then re-torque in a cross hatch pattern.
Last edited by Panama 58; 12-09-2018 at 02:41 PM.
12-09-2018, 05:28 PM
#18
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