Hig116

I went and looked at a car this weekend and wanted to get everyone’s opinion to see if it’s priced right.

The car is a ’72 yellow with dark beige interior, 350cc with auto, PS, PW, PB, matching numbers that the owner has had for 25 years. In that time, he has done a ton to it. Here’s the goods and bads.

Goods
Paint looks perfect. On the outside, I would give this car a 10. It was painted in the 90’s, but well taken care of.
All weather-stripping has been replaced.
The interior has been replaced around 2002.
All air conditioning components have been replaced and updated to 134a (not working)
All gauges work, with some sent off to be rebuilt (except tach)
Wiring harness in dash replaced
Gas tank replace in 90s
Complete brake system replaced
Most of the rear end replace
Lifters replaced
Frame looks good
Many random parts from years of update/repair

Bads
Engine has been stroked and now has a tick. Owner says he knows when it began, after he ran it up to 130mph.
Original paint was Elkhart green, so it’s not the original color.
Doesn’t have correct distributor (reason for tach not working
Steering wheel has 4 to 6 inches of play
Power windows have trouble getting windows up
Passenger window needs rebuilt, as it’s very loose (has new parts to do this)
Wiper motor needs replaced (has new part)
Wiper door not functioning properly
Radio doesn’t work (new one offered in the box)
A/C clutch bad
Nothing in the front suspension has been changed.
When the odometer was replace/repaired, they rolled it to zero, so not sure how many miles on the care. Currently at 30K

I drove the car and if ran really good. The brakes were fantastic and no real issues noticed. Only concern was some play in the steering wheel.

So the owner got this car from someone who had begun to hot rod it and then parked it. He started rebuilding and trying to put it back to stock. He believes the tick in the motor is a busted piston skirt, as he has replaced almost everything in the top end, including the fuel pump, trying to find the tick.

The owner said he drove this a lot (30K miles are from him) and had a shelf full of trophies he won from shows.

He is asking $15,000. Most of the small things are not concerning me, but knowing the engine needs to be pulled on top of the small things, has me worried. I really feel like this guy knew his stuff and did a good job restoring the car, but I’m not certain if the engine issue makes this not a good deal. The body/paint make me think it could be.

I don’t know much more than this about the car. With what I’ve mentioned, does anyone have an opinion on whether this is a good deal?

Thanks,
Keith

Greg

$15K sounds pretty fair to me for this car.

BLUE1972

It all depends on how much work you can do. A good crate engine is $3500, stock is $2000 and rebuilding the front end is $250, clutch w/ flywheel cut is $350. If you do it yourself - it's a good buy if you like the car. Replacement compressor $200 to 300. + 4 cans of freeon.

I would Drive it till the engine blows and then rebuild it, With a crate engine .. Just me...

derekderek

Engine and front suspension are easy to fix. Body and interior are the priciest and most work. Frame and bird cage. You didn't mention them. And it is not dark beige. It is medium saddle. But looks like a nice car with a bunch of leetle details need messed with. Steering wheel play. There is a big rubber bushing where the power steering valve mounts to frame. Gets all squishy and soft.

Hig116

The frame looked good. Very little rust visible if any. I'm not certain about the bird cage, but believe it is good. The owner said they stripped the paint to down to glass and beveled all seems when painted. It really looks great, which is what is making me think I should have grabbed it when I saw it.

Wee

If you go back to look at it see if you can remove the kick panels....If the owner won't allow it an inspection camera can be used.....Just go up and over to look at the body mounts.

Brian

general ike

Does it matter to you if/when the engine fails you replace it with a non original crate motor? Do you want the car to be as original as possible? These are very important to some and not to others. So are you looking for original paint color and engine? Than this car is not for you at any price. If however this is not the case then it bares alot more looking into.

If you are not familiar about the peculiarities of a Vette's birdcage, educate yourself or find someone who is. If there is rust there then its time to walk away.This cannot be stressed enough!!! Ike

Jstan2014

20mercury

15K is a good price I believe. I would pull the engine and rebuild and keep the original engine as there is value to keep the original engine. Sounds like the top end is all rebuilt, so hopefully you would only need to rebuild the bottom for maybe less than 2K and then you are ready to cruise!!! The other stuff, sounds like a typical C3 work list, ha! Great paint is a big plus as you say. And rust on frame does not sound bad, check the windshield frame throughly. Thought for you, take it to a professional mechanic and ask them their opinion of engine condition.

Good luck!

Iceaxe

$15k is a great price if you want a beautiful and fun car to drive and enjoy.... If you want to become an original and matching numbers kind of guy keep looking.

Hig116

Thanks everyone for your responses. Does anyone have any ballpark numbers to have a shop rebuild the bottom end of the motor? I know I could do it, but I'm not sure I have the time and know I don't have all of the right tools.

Thanks,
Keith

BLUE1972

Price for a lower end rebuild - depends on where you live - here $3000.

Put the original motor in a bag and drop in a crate....

Hig116

That was my thought as well.

joewill

not certain about the bird cage? my advice to you is to be certain.
engine tick = busted piston skirt? = major repair
driver admits to pushing car to 130 MPH? = driver abuses his car, and has probably seen lots of high spirited driving. entire engine might be near blowing up.
a busted piston skirt could scour a bore and its bye bye block possibly. and loss of original block = loss of value

Stev-o

I'd walk away from that car. Your list of all the "bads" is too long and the possibility of an engine failure would be a deal killer to me.

There are many other cars for sale...

cv67

I wouldnt pay 15 if it needed a motor. It may be something simple who knows...a run to 130 I wouldnt worry about if it cant take that it wasnt any good period.
At least he is being up front. These cars are so old not so sure if the whole original block means that much unless it was some uber rare model...same with color
If the condition/price are right why not? Just an opinion thats all. If youre paying "collector money" then yes it better be right
Think the yellow looks great on C3s

If you could buy it for "bad motor" price get a crate 400 drop it in and sell that one off.

Hig116

Jstan2014

Hig116

Thanks for the input. Seems like the responses are 50/50. The fact that the car is 1.5 hours away makes it appealing as well. It's not easy for me to travel great distances to see others for sale. On top of that, I'm REALLY itching to get my first C3, so I'm having to try very hard to be patient (not my strong suit).

Thanks,
Keith

derekderek

Is it priced Right? 10k can get a roughly equivalent 74-up late c3. 10k will get a beat POS 68-72 Corvette. One that needs way more than 5k to be as nice as this one. Double check frame and bird cage. Then buy it.