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Following up the discussion on my previous thread, '16 Z51 Arctic White TRACK BUILD, I've decided to create a new thread for my new project car: 2019 Z06 2LZ w/ Z07, Comp seats, Microsuede interior, black wheels.

I've always been fan of Corvettes, and well, this is my 7th Corvette, and 2nd C7 : )
'01 C5 Z06
'06 C6 Z51 1LT
'06 C6 Z06 2LZ
'12 C6 GS 3LT
'13 C6 Z06 2LZ w/MRC
'16 C7 Z51 1LT
'19 C7 Z06 2LZ w/Z07

My other build threads:
'16 Z51 Arctic White TRACK BUILD


'14 AGM 1SS/1LE Track build thread


'13 Mazda MX-5 Club build thread

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Current mods list. THIS POST WILL BE KEPT UP-TO-DATE
(My '16 Z51 mods list).

• Engine / Powertrain
  • BMS drop-in air filter.
  • 2018+ Z06 Auto OEM radiator (84524653). 200.
  • DeWitts C7AUX. 391.
  • LG Z06 Cooling kit. 539.
• Interior
  • Sharkbar gloss black (9.7 lbs) and BK harness tabs. 85.
  • Schroth Profi II ASM race harness in black.
  • Sparco EVO L QRT seats w/ AMT low-mounts (~20 lbs vs 62+ lbs OEM, per seat; 84 lbs saved). 972.
• Handling / Aero
  • APR GT-500 wing at 74". 1029. How-to.
  • LG Tunneled Splitter. 1119. How-to.
  • LG Hood. 1271.
  • LG G7 Sway bars
  • DSC Tractive Coilovers with 140 / 130 N/mm Swift springs. 1186.
  • LG Rear HD Tie Rods (link).
  • Wheels
    • Longacre TIRELIEF pressure bleeder. 863.
    • APEX SM-10 (Anthracite) wheels at 18"X11" ET38 (22.56 lbs) 1211.
    • Signature SV502 wheels with knurled bead at 18"x11" ET38 (21 lbs), 19"x13" ET56 (23 lbs). 115.
    • Signature SV502 wheels with knurled bead at 18"x12.5" ET56.
    • BC Forged RZ39 wheels 18x11 ET38 front, 18x12.5 ET59 rear; knurled bead option. 30, 95.
    • Forgestar CF5V 19x10 ET30 front (23.26 lbs), 20x12 ET59 rear (27.32 lbs) for street driving.
    • Gorilla racing lug nuts (42133 - Ti or Al) 0.6 lbs.
  • Brakes
    • Non-Z07 (stronger) OEM brake booster (22897671; discussion)
    • C7 Z06 front (13.5 lbs; loaded) and rear (6.7 lbs; loaded) brake calipers (370 mm; link). 5.
    • Girodisc Z06 front (22.9 lbs) / rear (17.5 lbs) rotors. 5.
    • Raybestos ST47/43s (For fronts, pad shape 1382.16 looks to be a better fit than 1405). front, rear.
    • EBC SR21 for front/rear (DP81853.15SR21 / DP83023.15SR21) (link).
• Fluids
  • Engine oil: Mobil1 ESP 0W-40 (dexos2).
  • Differential oil: GM 88862624, Amsoil Severe Gear 75W-110.
  • Transmission oil: Amsoil Signature Series Multi-Vehicle Synthetic ATF.
  • Brake fluid: Motul RBF 600.
  • Coolant: GM DexCool.
  • Suspension grease: Amsoil Synthetic Polymeric Truck, Chassis and Equipment Grease, NLGI #2.
• Other parts
  • GM extended mud flaps: 22935639 rear. 397.
  • MegaLiFe (40+8) Ah battery (16.6 lbs). link. 1271.
• Weights (of parts not on listed above)
  • Suspension
    • Lug nuts
      • OEM 2.2lbs.
      • Improved Racing Alu 1.1lbs.
      • CCW chrome 2.7 lbs.
    • Wheel/tire combos
      • MPSC 2 ZP + Stock Z06: 56.5 lbs front, 62.0 lbs rear.
      • MPSS ZP + Forgestar CF5V 19x10 ET30 front (54.1 lbs), 20x12 ET59 rear (62.1 lbs).
    • Tires
      • Hoosier R7 335/30/18: 28 lbs.
      • Hoosier R7 345/35/18: 29 lbs.
      • NT01 275/35/18: 27.3 lbs.
      • NT01 315/30/18: 30.4 lbs.
      • NT01 305/30/19: 31.5 lbs.
      • NT01 325/30/19: 32.3 lbs.
      • Pirelli DH Scrub 305/645/18: 25.2 lbs.
      • Pirelli DHC Scrub 325/660/18: 22.4 lbs.
• Other / Discussions
  • How-to
    • HOW-TO: Install larger '19 Z06 (Auto) radiator (link).
    • HOW-TO: AUX2 !!! (link)
    • HOW-TO: Install LG Z06 Cooling kit (My take) (link).
    • HOW-TO: Preventing pump cavitation by a simple re-routing (link).
    • HOW-TO: Upgrade diff cooler with much larger transmission cooler (link).
    • HOW-TO: Install chassis-mount APR Wing (link).
    • HOW-TO: Install LG Tunneled Splitter (link).
    • HOW-TO: Protect (and restore) a race splitter (LG Tunneled Splitter) (link) 1176.
  • OEM (Bosch) Digital Angle Gauge Adapter. Needed to adjust rear caster (CH-47960-10).
  • In search of affordable and strong wheel options (link).
  • Cars with Z07 / CCB brakes; lower brake boost issue (link).
  • Measuring fuel left during track driving (link).
  • Rear wing aero research (link).
  • Dyno results (1/12/2019). 69, 258.
  • Fluid changes (and sample results): Engine oil: @465 miles 110,
  • Searching for the best ride height. 571.
  • Parts needed to replace valve-springs. 843.
  • Hot ambient temp testing galore! (link).
  • C8 Z51 Track Build v.s. Z06? C8 forum link, 1389.
  • Pad sizes (volume): C7 Z06 OEM vs AP 9668 vs AP 9661 (link).
  • Alignment:
    • @1/7/2019 63.
    • @5/29/2019 349.
    • @12/13/2019 545.
    • @3/30/2020 572.
    • @6/9/2021
    • @7/30/2021 1152.
    • @9/11/2021 1186.
    • @2/4/2022 1246.
• Archived
  • Toyo R888R 315/30/18 (31 lbs), 345/30/19 (36 lbs) on SV502 130.
  • Derale Hi-Flow Cooler kit 65860. 420, 461.
  • Signature SV502 wheels with knurled bead at 18"x11.5" ET40. 1035.
  • Antigravity H6/Group-48 Car Battery (16.3 lbs vs. 39.5 lbs OEM) 462.
  • GS/Z07 32mm front sway bar (23407992) with GS/Z07 bushings (23413426; 11.3 lbs vs 7.8 lbs) 642, 909.
  • ​Power steering gear cooling duct instructions. 30.
    • ​Duct (15842373)
    • Rear Deflector (23135212)
  • EOS extended front mud-flaps. 957.

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Delivery


Lowest miles I've ever seen on a car!


Asked the dealer to not fill the tank, so that I could fill it at Chevron. In PNW, the gas stations that sell gas with highest actual octane are Chevron and 76. And no, Shell gas is good quality, but is not high octane. I've learned these the hard way back when I owned AWD turbo cars (Sti, Evo, etc.). My 4 year old, helping me with the process : )


The first day at home, and the only day it looked like this.


First changes: Wheels, tires, first time on the lift


Going with spin forged wheels (Forgestar CF5V) at OEM sizes, with different front offset: 19x10 ET30 fronts, 20x12 ET59 rears. Forgestar asked for the front offset change to safely clear CCB brakes. The front wheel with PSS ZP 285/30/19 is pictured here.


More aggressive offsets (than Z51) make the wheels look nicer.


It's hard to fit this car to regular car lifts designed to fit in residential homes. As such, I had to put the car on the arm on one side, and use wood pieces to level it : (


I thought Z06 cars come with carbon fiber chassis stiffeners??????? This is clearly aluminum.


Paid a fortune to these. Oh well.


After a bit of experimenting, figured out the most ideal location to lift the car. It makes it so much easier when you mark it on the ground.

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Brake swap (OEM CCB --> OEM Iron)
I've decided to swap to iron brakes since I intend to use this car heavily on track, and iron brakes would better suit my needs.
I'm sure some will ask: why not AP racing kit?

• Z06 OEM brakes are already at the same size as AP kit. The OEM rotor is light but non-directional rotor, which will unfortunately not cool down nearly as good as a rotational rotor. That said, if you use a good 2-piece rotor (like Girodisc or RB, DBA T5 etc.), it will both stay light enough, and will provide much better cooling.
• The main advantage of AP kit would actually be the stiff yet very light caliper, but I don't think it's worth investing $5K in that, especially considering you're bound to buy all the supplies from the same vendor, and the caliper is not a rotating weight. As such, since the OEM CCB brakes lose so much rotating weight, neither AP nor OEM Z06 brakes will be as good as CCB brakes in terms of weight, even if totals come close or better; OEM CCB brakes with much lighter rotating weight would always have the advantage.
• The increase in rotating weight can be addressed by lighter wheels. The light forged wheels shed enough to more than equalize the increase in rotating weight of brakes, especially considering they rotate at a higher radius (the rotational potential energy is relational to radius).
• Considering all these, and the very low price of the F/R cost of OEM Z06 brakes, I've decided to go with them along with Girodisc 2-piece rotors. Since the OEM CCB rear rotor has steel hub, the rotational mass does not increase with the 2-piece iron rotors (at regular Z06 sizes; I've never meant 2-piece rotors at the unnecessary-for-iron size of CCB rotors).
• The cooling/heat capacity of this system along with the OEM double air ducting should be sufficient. Considering people with 372mm AP kit with similar cooling and heat capacity have no issues, I don't see any problems.

You need to use these protectors to make sure wheels don't ding and damage the rotors. I'm honestly baffled by people doing this with 18" wheels, where the clearances would be little to none!


Here it is with the protector installed.


They sure look beautiful!


The surface is shining-smooth (at 20 miles).


The loaded new calipers are 13.5 lbs (9.1 lbs unloaded). We save about 1+ lbs of unsprung weight from CCB calipers.


Siphoned the fluids in clutch and brake reservoirs. The clutch fluid, though very clean, is visibly non-transparent, due to wax contamination.


Cleanest brake fluid I've ever siphoned : )


Beautiful engine bay, by the way.


Front rotors. next to each other. 15.5" vs 14.6"


13.4 lbs vs 22.9 lbs.


Using Nord-lock wedge lock washers to not deal with TTY crap. These will not come off if torqued enough. You'd need NL14 for front, and NL12 for rear (I stock them all from 8 through 14mm).


You need to short-circuit the wiring for the pad life indicators.


Loaded iron vs. CCB caliper at the rear. 6.7 lbs vs. 10.4 lbs.


17.5 lbs Girodisc vs. 17.9 lbs CCB rotors. It's a wash. Note the huge iron center hub of the CCB rotor, causing the extra weight.


Used the opportunity to also replace the washers on upper control arms with much thinner ones. GM wants at least one washer left out. In case it is due to requiring a washer (and not geometry issue), I decided to put these shims in. Why shims, but not washers? Well, these are what I've had in hand : )


Front: 1.95 degrees to 2.4 degrees jump in camber with the swap of washers. This is obviously not a good way to measure the camber, but it gives us an idea on the impact of removal of these washers. Honestly they helped more than I thought!


Rear: 1.45 degrees vs. 1.90 degrees. About same gain as fronts! Since I plan to keep the suspension stock on this car (except these and toe links), every bit counts. My alignment goal will be -3/7.5/0 front, -2/0.8/0.05 rear (camber/caster/toe).


Do yourself a favor, and cut a hole to access the rear-most UCA bolts.


The dealer left everything in the trunk. I love this kit, and having dual brake ducting!


Here it is, installed.



Aero, tow hook; installed.


FINISHED!

ErnieN85

w00tw00t

So excited for this thread!!

Innovate

I have to ask, why order with CCB's if you were going to swap? I plan on ordering iron from the beginning.

timmyZ06

Wow! Such a nice serious built!! Looking for more, oh yeah avoid walls as well!!!

rico750sxi

I'd guess to get the stiffer springs, different shock calibrations, etc of the ZO7 package. Several people take the CCB's off due to the cost of replacement when tracking the car.

X25

Exactly! You can't get Z07 package without the CCBs, and the package is so much more than just brakes. In short, this package gives you suspension and electronics calibration tuned for high traction tires and high bite brakes; exactly what you'd want for track. It's obviously not a race car, and the impact is probably limited, but I'm especially excited about much stiffer springs, since that's the first thing you feel lack of, when you switch to track tires. Granted, DSC seems to fill the void, but I'm sure there's only so much you can do with dynamic damping, and DSC can always be used on Z07 cars, too, to further help. We'll see; I'll stick with OEM setup for the time being.

CCBs are beautiful brakes, and I really liked the high bite, too; very similar to ST43s that I'll use. If I knew they'd last long for track use, just like they do for street use, I'd never swap them.

clarkkent06

Hmm...knowing you, we shall see

Poor-sha

Great thread and thanks for posting the weights. Having tracked both an FE6 and an FE7 car with the DSC Sport controller I do agree that the FE7 car was better. I still think the AP Racing brakes are worth it for not just the lower weight but thicker and cheaper pads.

lobsterroboto

X25

I'm glad it's deemed useful!

Regarding pad life: ignoring the heat insulation benefit of thicker pads, keep in mind that it's also the volume of the pad that matters. Even though OEM pad is not as thick, it is huge in terms of its area, which makes up for quite a bit of the difference in thickness against many other pad shapes. In my experience, this pad shape (1405?) with ST43 compound lasted me quite a while. Raybestos pads, when compared to Ferodo pads, also last about twice as much when used on the same car in same shape (EvoX and C5, C6 owners are a good source for this). In short, I don't think ST43s in the massive 1405 shape would last much less, if at all, despite thickness disadvantage. IIRC, my last set of pads lasted me through the whole season, after which I've replaced for the next season (not sure how many track days I've had; 10+?; need to check) for a fresh start.

Speaking of which, I should keep an eye on my consumables this time, so I can report on that. Oregon Raceway Park is very hard on brakes, and I can do open track days since I am a member of their club; it would be a great place to stress-test the system, and see if everything works under long periods. Since the car is a gas guzzler, I can't stay out more than an hour, anyway : P

rico750sxi

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I got it custom-ordered through MacMaulkin; got it with 12% discount, and courtesy-delivered through an awesome dealer here (Art Gamblin Chevy in Enumclaw, WA)

kdm123

No cooling mods? I suppose it's never too warm up in Oregon? Does the '19 Z06 have better cooling ability than previous model years?

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For starters, this is manual, so I do have the aux radiator to help out. As far as I've heard, 2019 models also come with a larger radiator, as well as a new design, slightly larger supercharger coolant reservoir (thanks to ZR1?), and this is on the top of the redesigned lid (2017+ thanks to ZL1). Considering many forum members could survive track days by merely adding the aux cooler to their former year Z06 cars, I'm hopeful that it will all work out.

If not, we'll see. I don't wanna touch it until then, though, since it's easy to mess up things. One example: most aftermarket radiators have that special fin design that create much more turbulence since it increases the cooling efficiency. Sure, but what about the aux rad? Wouldn't it be adversely impacted? What about the other coolers that are also stacked up front? Long story short, I'd much rather wait and see first : )

okaythen

Very nice, thumbs up. Also made it to the main page https://www.corvetteforum.com/articl...or-track-duty/